In that case, I’m really glad I started out with a decent battery like the 30Q’s, and continued buying them. Makes things a ton easier and I’m all about that.
My luck has been abnormally good lately. The pending apocalypse, perhaps?
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DNA250 battery question
- Thread starter aswain
- Start date
My luck has been abnormally good lately. The pending apocalypse, perhaps?
It's a decent battery, but it's not the best... the VTC6 is slightly better like I mentioned before. I'm not sure I understand why you think things are a ton easier if you continue buying the 30Q, as moving to the VTC6 doesn't mean you have to stop using the 30Q batteries that you've got, and besides, they look completely different so it should be easy enough for you to tell them apart.
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Just my 2 pence on this
The theory behind using married batteries is they work and age together ....as you use a cell, desposits inside develop affecting is ability to both hold its full charge (capacity) and it’s ability to discharge at the same rates compared to when new ....the more recharge cycles you go through on the cell the more this occurs ...it’s a normal consequence of using them time and time again
So if you use any two batteries, say a freshly bought 30Q and a 30Q you had for ages, there will be differences between the two internal resistances. Because the older one is now higher already. When they are called upon to work, the older cell is trying to keep up with its newer counterpart placing more strain on the older cell, thus increasing its resistance further (its working harder trying to discharge at the same rate) which “could” lead to failure .......think of this a bit like cholestoral in the arteries and having a heart attack
Moving on from this what about the CDR? So on a regulated mod use two batteries up to 120w for those 30Q you are sound, if you have 3 batteries 180W....the reason is two fold
1) most regulated mods have a cut off after 10 seconds continual firing but should there be a problem (auto cut out fails and sticky fire button for instance) the CDR rating is the limit at which you can continually discharge that cell from full to cut out without over stressing it...this will give you time to get the batteries out (another reason to use married pairs)
Note though this CDR rating along with a cells capacity reduces as the cell ages ....leading to point 2
2) yes you can use higher amps than the CDR rating, a lot higher in short bursts with rests between but not everyone vapes this way (chain vaping) so saying it’s ok isn’t normally offered out as advice until you are comfortable knowing limits ....think of it like ragging a car continually at high revs, it’s gonna wear the engine quicker right. It’s the same thing on batteries, and the more stress the faster internal resistance increases and capacity reduces, therefore reducing their overall effectiveness faster.
Those that offer this CDR advice aren’t the battery nazis in fact they are just saying it to err on this side of caution and stay safe until you learn more about it all.
Mechs are a different beast and come with their own additional hazards but won’t go into that here as it’s not relevant yet
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The real reason why it does indeed make perfect sense to offer this CDR advice IMO is because there are always headless chickens who will take these ratings as a starting point to see how much farther they can take it. But if you're not such a headless chicken, then (also IMO) it makes slightly better sense to stick to the MVA ratings instead, and, at the same time, just temporarily ignore the part that reads "If you know you will not be exceeding a particular wattage that is less than the maximum then you can use that wattage in the equation instead." ( https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...attery-current-draw-for-a-regulated-mod.7532/ ). This is because I have witnessed regulated mods jump to max power (and also because accidental button presses don't just include the fire button, which can get stuck in such a way that the puff cut-off timer gets stuck causing the mod to go into auto firing like you mentioned, but they [these accidental button presses] also include the "wattage up" button as well...). Ergo, before you're going to ASSUME someone already got to the point of TRULY knowing he/she will "not be exceeding a particular wattage that is less than the maximum", IMO just point him/her to this explanation first: https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...ngs-picking-a-safe-battery-to-vape-with.7447/ and, at the same time, just point them to the explanation about the MVA ratings, i.e. the explanation that's in the bottom left corner of the "18650 Battery Safety Ratings ─ Based on testing by Mooch" table.
I know you said they weren't the best, but you did say they, at least, were good, and that's better than bad. That was my reasoning, anyway.
Good point about being able to switch. I thought I was sort of "locked in", for some reason. I'll look into the VTC6's. Are they better enough to justify sending tomorrow's shipment of 30Q's back and reordering the VTC6's?
Thanks for chiming in with what you know!
I'm pretty happy and have a lot invested in my TC mods and tanks so I don't feel the need to explore or spend further.
Thanks for the tidbit, though.
I haven't had a problem like that with my mod yet and keep them and the tanks very clean.
However, shit happen's so thanks for mentioning that.
No, don't send them back.
The Triade DNA 250 is a highly dependable mod. I wouldn't worry too much about it potentially starting to auto fire or anything like that, and, even if it did (because you're right there's always a very small chance), you'd still be really safe enough because you're only vaping at (or below) 115 watts, which, with three 30Q batteries, translates to not more than 2/3 of the CDR so, in addition to being pretty safe, you can expect solid performance for a really very long time.
The VTC6 just runs for a little bit longer than the 30Q, that's all. (The VTC6 cannot handle more watts than the 30Q... they are both about equal in this regard.) The difference is small, and, by the time you will have worn out your 30Q batteries, there might actually be commercially available to consumers a completely new battery that's even better than the VTC6 because battery technology just keeps evolving.
Even if you decide to up your wattage by 20, your 30Q batteries should still give you decent vape performance in your 3-battery regulated mods. You should be able to keep using the batteries for more than a year, probably a lot longer if you make a habit out of 1/ recharging them not too long ( =days) before you're going to use them again, and 2/ keeping them below 45°C/113°F (but don't put them in the fridge).
Let the batteries rest for at least half an hour both before and after recharging them.
My batteries might sit in the charger overnight, but sometimes they take 5-6 hours to fully charge so, I would think a few hours after charging is finished is acceptable. (Correct me if I'm wrong) They never stay in more than 6 hours after completion.
The batteries always sit for at least a day after charging, but I have removed them from the mod and immediately put them in the charger. I'll stop doing that.
Also, if they sit for a few days without usage, they sit fully charged, not discharged. And, as soon as, if not before my mod says "check battery", I pull them out, avoiding further discharge. (not sure if either makes a difference)
My 30Q's last only about a day, even at my modest settings. But that's probably because of my 5ml per day habit, I'm guessing.
I never really thought putting any battery in the fridge was a good idea. Even though they are sealed, I figured condensation could be a negative factor for any electronics, so I didn't do it. (Not sure if that makes a difference, either)
I own both the Nitecore D4 and the Nitecore NEW i4. They monitor each battery individually so if they notice a battery is full, they automatically stop charging that particular battery, and, I can take that particular battery off of the charger either before or after the other batteries are full... it just doesn't matter (as long as you don't leave a battery on the charger for days).
If you don't frequently let them sit for multiple days after charging, then they live a lot longer. So if you're planning to not use them for several days, just don't charge them. But if you're planning to not use them for several months, then store them around 3.5 volts. However, they age even if you're not using them.
Like I explained above, doing that causes them to age faster.
That's how I usually do it too. If the batteries are running low, the mod can't perform well so the vapor production will be weak and so will the flavor.
I vape more than double that amount on average. But then, I also very often vape at higher watts than you do... for me it tends to vary a lot. If you wait closer to 30 seconds after almost every puff, you'll notice the batteries last a lot longer than if you just vape away all the time. I often like to just vape away all the time. (Even, if the watts I'm vaping are actually pretty high.) All my 18650 batteries are VTC5A... the CDR of the VTC5A is 25 amps. The 30Q is only 20 amps, which isn't enough for my vaping style. The downside of my vaping style is my batteries in my regulated mods don't usually last very long. I charge my batteries often.
Someone might stumble across this thread in the future and might misinterpret the "below 45°C/113°F" part so that's why I thought I'd mention the fact putting them in a fridge is a bad idea. The batteries don't perform well if they're very cold / close to freezing temperature, and, storing them is best done around room temperature, whereas using them they give the best performance around 40°C/104°F, but rapid changes in temperature of the batteries are to be avoided as well, as are extreme temperatures of course.