Dry burning....Is it necessary?

Discussion in 'Help I have questions!' started by Spartin718, Aug 31, 2017.

  1. Spartin718

    Spartin718 New Member

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    Hi everyone hope you all are enjoying your day...I am new to building and am confused as to whether or not you should dry burn your new coils? I recently purchased some coils that were wrapped with ribbon and was not sure whether to dry burn them or not. I did anyway because I cannot find a straight answer. I figured that you masters may be able to help me. Also I noticed that my ohms have risen since I put this coil on two days ago. It started at 0.18 and now it is 0.2. Is this normal? I thought maybe my grub screws were not tight enough so I tried that but it is still reading 0.2

    Thanks in advance for any help:bliss:
     
  2. AndriaD

    AndriaD Shine on, you crazy... VU Donator Diamond Contributor Member For 3 Years ECF Refugee

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    It's a good idea, as it gets rid of any residual machine oil (or even skin oils from your fingers), AND, it lets you make sure you don't have a "hot leg", as well showing you the actual resistance of the coil while it's "in use," to make sure it's what you want.

    Andria
     
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  3. Spartin718

    Spartin718 New Member

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    Ok thank you Andria:)). I just wasn't sure due to it being wrapped in ribbon. I really appreciate your help:banana:
     
  4. AndriaD

    AndriaD Shine on, you crazy... VU Donator Diamond Contributor Member For 3 Years ECF Refugee

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    It won't need much, just a couple or three quick pulses, to get rid of any remainders on the wire, and to ascertain the resistance and that you don't have hot legs. Not nearly as much as trying to burn off gunk. :D

    Andria
     
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  5. IMFire3605

    IMFire3605 Bronze Contributor Member For 1 Year ECF Refugee

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    Another factor, the increase in resistance. The fact it increased 0.02ohms that is pretty normal after the first dry burn after mounting of a coil, means the wire annealed and set into place. Also remember that wire as it is heated and cooled, will gradually drift higher in resistance, this is due to the tempering of the metal creating crystalized structures at the molecular level, it will over time get brittle due to this crystalization, this also causes blockades at the molecular level creating more resistance.

    A +/- shift of about 0.10 to 0.20 ohms is not anything to really worry about, still good to check your grub screws from time to time, its when you see a shift of +/- 0.5 to 1.0 ohms then you know you have a very looses connection or there is a short to look out for.
     
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  6. Spartin718

    Spartin718 New Member

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    Also good to know....I was wondering about that as well. I believe I did it correctly and just dry burned a bit when it was necessary. Thanks so much Andria:wave:
     
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  7. Spartin718

    Spartin718 New Member

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    That makes complete sense...Thank you!! Very well articulated....I thought that might have been the issue but I didn't understand it at the molecular lever. Lol. Great info, Thanks again:)
     
  8. pulsevape

    pulsevape Diamond Contributor Member For 3 Years

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    hell I wash my wire and dry burn my coils,...dirty wire always takes awhile to burn off the tatse.
     
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  9. HondaDavidson

    HondaDavidson Gold Contributor Member For 2 Years

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    Biggest thing is that mist people and every video you see on the subject.... dry burn at too high a heat.....dont actually need to get red hot to clean or "burn in" a coil.... but heating too color just give you a visual ques that the coil is heating evenly.... well at least at the temp your firing....

    Dry burn with least amount if wattage and g eat you can.... like in a dark room heat with pulses till color just starts to appear. Dull red or orange. Excessive heat degrades the metal of the coil.

    Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2017
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  10. Spartin718

    Spartin718 New Member

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    Hello and thank you:)). May I please ask how you wash your coils? I have read about people dipping them in water? Or dripping water over the coils.
    Thank you very much for your response. I have been heating them at 30 degrees and only pulsing for three seconds or so just until they both burn evenly from the inside out. I hope that isn't too hot?
     
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  11. HondaDavidson

    HondaDavidson Gold Contributor Member For 2 Years

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    Unless you are using Nickel or titanium wire it won't be too hot...... just hotter than needed....... repeated high heat cycles can make the wire brittle bd affect resistance over time...... the higher the heat the shorter that time.

    Simple single wire builds especially spaced ones often don't need dry burning at all.... except maybe for cleaning purposes. Even then there are other ways to clean a coil. Less affective ways granted...

    We dry burn because it works...... most don't run the same build long enough for degradation to matter anyway.

    As with almost everything else vaping. ... if it produces a vape you like... and the mod doesn't leak smoke....... you didn't do it wrong.

    Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
     
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  12. UncleRJ

    UncleRJ Will write reviews for Beer! Staff Member Senior Moderator VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years ECF Refugee Reviewer

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    I not only dry burn new coils but I "Season" them by adding a drop or two of E-Liquid to them while they are still hot from the dry burn.
     
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  13. pulsevape

    pulsevape Diamond Contributor Member For 3 Years

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    well I have to dry burn..I use a genny with a mesh wick so I have to glow the coils to see if they are heating evenly and there are no hotspots....
     
  14. Johnnytraveler

    Johnnytraveler Gold Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    Do you notice a difference when you do this? If so what difference(s)?Sounds like something I might try
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2017
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  15. CrazyChef v2.0

    CrazyChef v2.0 Gold Contributor Member For 1 Year ECF Refugee Reddit Exile Unlisted Vendor

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    Do you mean 0.01-0.02? Because 0.10-0.20 is a pretty large shift in resistance. The only time that should ever occur is during the initial dry burn of nichrome or kanthal coils when the oxidation occurs (and should be expected). But more in the range of 0.05-0.10, depending on the wire(s) used in the coils. With stainless steel coils, there should be almost zero change in resistance after the initial dry burn. In regular use, the resistance will increase slightly when the coils are hot, but will decrease back to it's normal value once the coils cool down. On a side note, that's also why you need to set your resistance for TC when your coils are at room temperature.
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2017
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  16. IMFire3605

    IMFire3605 Bronze Contributor Member For 1 Year ECF Refugee

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    It depends also the type of setup, DTL compared to MTL, having previously worked in vapor shops I've seen Kanger PT3 dual coils shift almost 0.5ohms the first time used compared to initial readings, while other devices like a DTL RDA drift 0.05ohms for no other reason other than initial firing and annealing. 0.10 to 0.20 drift unless you are already at absolute safest lowest build possible was about the average I seen doing rebuilds with both Kanthal and Ni80/60 due to how thick of wire a customer requested be used, say 20 or 22awg, after that annealing initial fire the coil drifted down almost a full 0.10, then had to reseat the grab screws and it returned to close to initial reading by about 0.02 +/- initial reading.
     
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  17. UncleRJ

    UncleRJ Will write reviews for Beer! Staff Member Senior Moderator VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years ECF Refugee Reviewer

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    Doing this seems to get rid of the slightly metallic "New Coil" taste.
     
  18. AndriaD

    AndriaD Shine on, you crazy... VU Donator Diamond Contributor Member For 3 Years ECF Refugee

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    Excellent tip!!! I'm going to try it ASAP!

    Andria
     
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  19. Letitia9

    Letitia9 Nano Junkie VU Donator Gold Contributor

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    Thank you. Love learning something new. Now my whole day wasn't wasted!
     
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  20. AndriaD

    AndriaD Shine on, you crazy... VU Donator Diamond Contributor Member For 3 Years ECF Refugee

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    I think it really did help; I put a new coil in one of my Achilles today, and after pulsing it a couple times, I dropped some juice on it, then wicked; I still had the break-in of the fresh cotton, but it did seem to break in a bit faster than it normally would when it's also a fresh coil. :) :) :)

    Thx @UncleRJ !!

    Andria
     
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  21. Letitia9

    Letitia9 Nano Junkie VU Donator Gold Contributor

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    I break in wicks by pulsing a few times before putting on tank. Works well.
     
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  22. Johnnytraveler

    Johnnytraveler Gold Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    Thanks dude! Just in time for my weekend build fest!
     
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  23. UncleRJ

    UncleRJ Will write reviews for Beer! Staff Member Senior Moderator VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years ECF Refugee Reviewer

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    Personally, I break in new coils per the above.

    I break in new wicks by giving them a bit of a pre soak. I never apply power to a dry wick. Just gives it a lingering burnt taste.
     
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  24. Letitia9

    Letitia9 Nano Junkie VU Donator Gold Contributor

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    I wet wicks to break them in. Maybe 1-2 hits cotton taste if I remember to pulse before putting on tank.
     
  25. Spartin718

    Spartin718 New Member

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    Thank you for your help it is greatly appreciated:vino:
     
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  26. Spartin718

    Spartin718 New Member

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    Wow that makes sense, thank you!!!
     
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  27. Spartin718

    Spartin718 New Member

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    Hello and thank you!! Do you mean that you wet them as in with juice?
     
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  28. Letitia9

    Letitia9 Nano Junkie VU Donator Gold Contributor

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    Yes. Get even glow, wick & trim, juice up & pulse a few times. Next time I will juice a little before wick & try Uncle RJ's tip.
     
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  29. UncleRJ

    UncleRJ Will write reviews for Beer! Staff Member Senior Moderator VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years ECF Refugee Reviewer

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