Midniteoyl
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A normal #6 o-ring is the same thing.. any hardware store. $0.10
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Eleaf iStick ... compact 20w box mod
- Thread starter moecat
- Start date
No link. Picked them up at the store. A 10 pack #60 was $2
Now no one gets hurt and single file only
http://www.fasttech.com/products/14...t-20-2200mah-variable-voltage-wattage-battery
A member alerted me to this
http://www.fasttech.com/products/14...t-20-2200mah-variable-voltage-wattage-battery
A member alerted me to this
Lefty
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http://waideatech.en.alibaba.com/pr...smart_vv_mod_vs_eleaf_istick_20w_box_mod.html
Looks like some other splatter colors and a carbon fiber look and wood grain as well.
Looks like some other splatter colors and a carbon fiber look and wood grain as well.
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It's honestly not that bad - I generally get my stuff in about 2 weeks!
Come to think of it I've never ordered anything that came with a battery - that could slow it down I guess!
kacy h
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I've had my istick for about 3 days now and have barely charged it. I bought the blue colored one from a local vape shop and I have added a nautilus mini to the top. So far no problems with it. I'm a newbie vapor and upgraded to this from the itaste VV. I can tell a huge difference. I think I'm going to get another one as well.
I gave my Itaste to a friend for a starter now I use the istick so he bought a istick lol
Well it seems when the "cloud" clears this seems to be a very admirable little device! It has become my daily driver, lasts all day and has proven to be pretty durable. I maintain 72 rental properties and lead a very eventful life. I have many things to play with at home IPV3, MPVs mechs but those are for home vaping or certain occasions not for work. I played with many toppers before settling on the the iClear X.l I rebuild the coils myself (which is a little harder than some) with 32g and rayon to 2.0 - 2.2 ohms. At that this unit is running in it's sweet spot. Cheap, fairly durable and small all adds up to a win for me. http://i1256.photobucket.com/albums/ii491/mudram99/output_zpskeyoksrh.jpg?t=1420380470
Thank u sooo much!!!
Is it possible to give a more detailed instruction on how to do this (or include pics)? I'm having the same problem. Thanks
According to the Colbert Vape Report (Colbert Tech Repair) on youtube, it is spring loaded
Sorry no pics of before and after. I broke that Istick and had to replace it. I know I was using the bottom oring from a protank coil at first, then switched to an o-ring recommended somewhere here on the forums. I was never able to get an oring to stretch to get over the top of the pin so i just cut one side and stuffed it in. As long as it sits under the contact of the center pin that's all you really need.
I saw this posted on another forum so I grabbed it.
There is a discussion going on elsewhere about the iStick. Another member created this chart. There are a few low watt/volt vapers that say these run too hot for them. I am a lower wattage vaper and have had zero issues so YMMV
Do keep in mind that this is someones theory. They have not tested a thing here.
ETA- Text that goes with this chart
I made a new chart showing what combinations of oHms/watts the iStick is capable of regulating. eLeaf/Joye U.S. confirmed with the manufacturer that the iStick does not have the capability to down regulate power.
The blue bars show what is fully regulated. The purple shows oHms/watts combos that are only regulated when the power level you have selected falls below the volts the battery is actually outputting. If the settings you have chosen are too low to be regulated the iStick screen shows values calculated from oHms law based on your chosen settings rather than showing the actual power coming from the battery that is going to the coil.
For example, if you are using a 1.8 oHm coil the iStick will fully regulated your vape between 10 and 16 watts. However, if you want to vape your 1.8 oHm coil at 7 watts you can not do so until the battery output falls below 3.6 volts. In practice, this would mean you would start vaping at 10 watts with a freshly charged battery with the temperature of the vape going lower until the battery was actually outputting below 3.6 volts. The iStick would then regulate your vape at 7 watts until the battery needed to be recharged. The screen will reflect 7 watts/3.5 volts irrespective what volts are actually being output to the coil.
Using the iStick in voltage mode doesn't change the fact that the iStick is not capable of reducing the power coming from the battery. If the battery is freshly charged, producing around 4.2 volts, and you have set the voltage to 3.8 the iStick will be delivering 4.2 volts, not 3.8 volts, to your coil.
The iStick will not allow you to select a power setting that requires more volts than is allowed in its regulated range. It will stop at the highest setting that the chip can regulate.
The data I used is from doing oHms law calculations. The device may produce something a bit different in actual use. So far, I haven't seen any reviews for the iStick using reliable electronic testing equipment to check its accuracy.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.
I saw this posted on another forum so I grabbed it.
There is a discussion going on elsewhere about the iStick. Another member created this chart. There are a few low watt/volt vapers that say these run too hot for them. I am a lower wattage vaper and have had zero issues so YMMV
Do keep in mind that this is someones theory. They have not tested a thing here.
ETA- Text that goes with this chart
I made a new chart showing what combinations of oHms/watts the iStick is capable of regulating. eLeaf/Joye U.S. confirmed with the manufacturer that the iStick does not have the capability to down regulate power.
The blue bars show what is fully regulated. The purple shows oHms/watts combos that are only regulated when the power level you have selected falls below the volts the battery is actually outputting. If the settings you have chosen are too low to be regulated the iStick screen shows values calculated from oHms law based on your chosen settings rather than showing the actual power coming from the battery that is going to the coil.
For example, if you are using a 1.8 oHm coil the iStick will fully regulated your vape between 10 and 16 watts. However, if you want to vape your 1.8 oHm coil at 7 watts you can not do so until the battery output falls below 3.6 volts. In practice, this would mean you would start vaping at 10 watts with a freshly charged battery with the temperature of the vape going lower until the battery was actually outputting below 3.6 volts. The iStick would then regulate your vape at 7 watts until the battery needed to be recharged. The screen will reflect 7 watts/3.5 volts irrespective what volts are actually being output to the coil.
Using the iStick in voltage mode doesn't change the fact that the iStick is not capable of reducing the power coming from the battery. If the battery is freshly charged, producing around 4.2 volts, and you have set the voltage to 3.8 the iStick will be delivering 4.2 volts, not 3.8 volts, to your coil.
The iStick will not allow you to select a power setting that requires more volts than is allowed in its regulated range. It will stop at the highest setting that the chip can regulate.
The data I used is from doing oHms law calculations. The device may produce something a bit different in actual use. So far, I haven't seen any reviews for the iStick using reliable electronic testing equipment to check its accuracy.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.