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Eleaf Pico I stick 75w producing little vapor

maq1919

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Im using eleaf ec tc nickel coils. Temp is set to 600f hardly getting any vapor. This usually happens after I change a coil. after about 2 days of vaping the temp and vapor production randomly changes after only 1 hit and i get full vapor production and a warm vapor until the coil expires in about a week. Im using 70vg 30pg eliquid and the melo 3 mini tank. after the vapor production starts I turn it down to about 500f.
 

MWorthington

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
Do you have another tank you can try, or do you have access to another tank? My eleaf GS Air is a little sketchy sometimes after a coil change and I know the problem is in the tank-I just don't know what it is. If you can try another atomizer, at least you could rule out the mod.
 

maq1919

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
yeah my subtank mini works perfect. it's from a kangertech subbed mega. I don't use it because it leaks all over the place. Im also firing temp control from the subtank. I have gone through several coils... Same thing every time. also the vapor is very dry not much flavor or heat.
 

maq1919

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
You mean wattage coils? Burns them up almost instantly. This is my second eleaf pico. Both did the same thing with tc and wattage coils. I chain vape though. I still primed and soaked the coils almost half a day sometimes overnight. Makes no difference
 

MWorthington

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
Yeah, I think you need a better tank especially if this is your second pico and both of them act the same way. I personally think it's unlikely you would get 2 picos in a row and both of them have exactly the same defect, but I guess it could happen. I don't know what other coils will work in the melo since I don't have one, but I came close a time or 2.:)
 

maq1919

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Alright thank you. I'm fairly new to this... could you recommend me a tank?
 

MWorthington

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
I've seen a lot of folks swear by the Supertank mini.

https://www.vaporworld.biz/back-in-stock/tobeco-supertank-mini/

You might do a search in the tank section of the forum for "Tobeco Supertank mini" and see what folks are saying about it. You might also search for "best 22mm tank" and see what you come up with.

The 22mm limitation is what ultimately stopped me from buying the pico since I use the eleaf istick basic and it's limited to 14mm tanks so I bought the hohmwrecker G2 instead. I didn't necessarily need or want 171 watts but I wanted a bulletproof mod I could use any tank or dripper I choose.

Again, though, I've read a lot of good things about the supertank.
 

HondaDavidson

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
A week of coil life sounds about right to me.... I never got more than 2 days from a melo coil....

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
 

Puff

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
You can use the Aspire Atlantis coils in your Melo tank it makes all the Difference in the world.. Really a game changer.

Sent from my LG-V930 using Tapatalk
 

Puff

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I've seen a lot of folks swear by the Supertank mini.

https://www.vaporworld.biz/back-in-stock/tobeco-supertank-mini/

You might do a search in the tank section of the forum for "Tobeco Supertank mini" and see what folks are saying about it. You might also search for "best 22mm tank" and see what you come up with.

The 22mm limitation is what ultimately stopped me from buying the pico since I use the eleaf istick basic and it's limited to 14mm tanks so I bought the hohmwrecker G2 instead. I didn't necessarily need or want 171 watts but I wanted a bulletproof mod I could use any tank or dripper I choose.

Again, though, I've read a lot of good things about the supertank.
This looks like a sweet tank....

Sent from my LG-V930 using Tapatalk
 

Puff

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I did not either until a couple of months ago, I believe I read that here on VU anyway it really makes a difference.

Sent from my LG-V930 using Tapatalk
 

georgemeadal

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Alright thank you. I'm fairly new to this... could you recommend me a tank?
I really like the upload_2017-5-11_4-23-26.jpegAspire Atlantis EVO Tank. Buy the extended version (the one on the right) for more juice capacity.
With the extended version you can use any* top threaded Atlantis style coil, and as an added bonus you can use Aspire Cleito coils and the Cleito 5ml spare glass tank.(NOT Cleito 120).
Check out the thread in my sig for a list of top threaded Atlantis style coils.
 
Last edited:

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
What wattage are you running in temp mode? Is it possible it is too low, causing little to no vapour? This wouldn't explain them working well after a few days, but worth checking.

The Atlantis coils will likely make a big difference for your Melo tank, but a new tank as mentioned will be even better.

Do check the power settings before you spend money though just in case.
 

Angrygod50

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
+ 1 for the EVO coils but there kanthal so no temp mode. The Aspire Nickel coils for TC are another option.
You should have at least 45-50 watts in temp mode
Is the resistance reading correctly when you change coils and did you lock it. Having the correct base resistance is very important in TC mode.
In power mode use the lowest wattage as shown on the coil and go up from there.
I have a bunch of tanks and I have no problems getting a good hit from the Melo tank. I also have the EVO tank and it is a good one.
 

maq1919

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
What wattage are you running in temp mode? Is it possible it is too low, causing little to no vapour? This wouldn't explain them working well after a few days, but worth checking.

The Atlantis coils will likely make a big difference for your Melo tank, but a new tank as mentioned will be even better.

Do check the power settings before you spend money though just in case.

I'm running it at 75 watts in tc mode.
 

maq1919

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
I've seen a lot of folks swear by the Supertank mini.

https://www.vaporworld.biz/back-in-stock/tobeco-supertank-mini/

You might do a search in the tank section of the forum for "Tobeco Supertank mini" and see what folks are saying about it. You might also search for "best 22mm tank" and see what you come up with.

The 22mm limitation is what ultimately stopped me from buying the pico since I use the eleaf istick basic and it's limited to 14mm tanks so I bought the hohmwrecker G2 instead. I didn't necessarily need or want 171 watts but I wanted a bulletproof mod I could use any tank or dripper I choose.

Again, though, I've read a lot of good things about the supertank.

Where could I find tc coils for the supertank mini? I looked on the site with the link but I don't know what to look for.
 

MWorthington

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee

georgemeadal

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
You mean wattage coils? Burns them up almost instantly. This is my second eleaf pico. Both did the same thing with tc and wattage coils. I chain vape though. I still primed and soaked the coils almost half a day sometimes overnight. Makes no difference
Just a couple thoughts about the Pico mod itself. Of course you should have the latest firmware updated. Second most important thing that comes to mind is to clean the threading on the 510 connextions (tank and mod). Third is a problem I discovered a frw weeks after I got my Smok AL 85 and that is to clean the threading on the battery cap and mod where the cap screws on. those connections get black and funky and in my opinion affect the perforemance of the mod since that is where the negative connection is made back to the board.
Last point I would make is to not give up on the MeloIII tank just use either Super Tank .5 coils OR Eleaf .3 ECL coils.
ECL_01.jpg
Tobeco_Super_Tank_Mini_0.5_Ohm_Replacement_Coils_-_Vapor_Widgets.jpg

The extended juice openings of the coil really help with faster wicking especially when I'm chain vaping.
Good luck whatever you decide and VAPE ON!
 

maq1919

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Just a couple thoughts about the Pico mod itself. Of course you should have the latest firmware updated. Second most important thing that comes to mind is to clean the threading on the 510 connextions (tank and mod). Third is a problem I discovered a frw weeks after I got my Smok AL 85 and that is to clean the threading on the battery cap and mod where the cap screws on. those connections get black and funky and in my opinion affect the perforemance of the mod since that is where the negative connection is made back to the board.
Last point I would make is to not give up on the MeloIII tank just use either Super Tank .5 coils OR Eleaf .3 ECL coils.
ECL_01.jpg
Tobeco_Super_Tank_Mini_0.5_Ohm_Replacement_Coils_-_Vapor_Widgets.jpg

The extended juice openings of the coil really help with faster wicking especially when I'm chain vaping.
Good luck whatever you decide and VAPE ON!

I just found something out. The melo 3 with tc coils reads at .13ohms when little vapor is present. When I get full vapor it reads at .15 ohms. Subtank mini is now on the mod and same thing exept it reads .14 ohms with little vapor and .16 ohms with full vapor and heat. I just put the subtank on the mod this morning and had little vapor. Just now I took a hit and got full vapor production which I didn't have this morning. I think the vapor production is tied into the ohm reading...
 

georgemeadal

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I just found something out. The melo 3 with tc coils reads at .13ohms when little vapor is present. When I get full vapor it reads at .15 ohms. Subtank mini is now on the mod and same thing exept it reads .14 ohms with little vapor and .16 ohms with full vapor and heat. I just put the subtank on the mod this morning and had little vapor. Just now I took a hit and got full vapor production which I didn't have this morning. I think the vapor production is tied into the ohm reading...
I suppose I should ask, do you unlock the ohms with no tank attached then hit the fire button till you see the no atomizer message then reattach the tank and lock the ohms while the tank/coil and mod are at the same (room temperature) ? Follow this procedure every time you switch tanks too.
Something is causing your problem and sometimes you have to tear everything down clean it and start from the beginning. We all have had issues I'm sure and learning your way is half the fun.
 

georgemeadal

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
+ 1 for the EVO coils but there kanthal so no temp mode. The Aspire Nickel coils for TC are another option.
You should have at least 45-50 watts in temp mode
Is the resistance reading correctly when you change coils and did you lock it. Having the correct base resistance is very important in TC mode.
In power mode use the lowest wattage as shown on the coil and go up from there.
I have a bunch of tanks and I have no problems getting a good hit from the Melo tank. I also have the EVO tank and it is a good one.
I have found that if you properly prime a coil before firing it for the first time and slowly break in a coil and most importantly don't put too much wattage to a coil, that I really have no need for temperature control.
I still use it sometimes but some coil/mod combos are too much of a pain in the ass to even make it worth it.
 

Angrygod50

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Resistance is critical wit TC if its off by 0.1 ohms it won't work right. That's why I always recommend locking it once it's reading right. Most Nickel coils are 0.15 ohm.
 

maq1919

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
dumb question- how do I lock the ohms on the istick? I think that will fix it. It's unlocked right now
 

Angrygod50

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Make sure it's reading the right resistance before you lock it. 0.15 ohms You unlock it the same way.
 

Puff

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Looks like some great advice, I have been following to also learn on my I sticks .

Sent from my LG-V930 using Tapatalk
 

maq1919

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Make sure it's reading the right resistance before you lock it. 0.15 ohms You unlock it the same way.
It was up to .15 ohms. I locked it then it went down to .14 again. The lock icon showed up but the ohms still went down.
 

maq1919

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
It was up to .15 ohms. I locked it then it went down to .14 again. The lock icon showed up but the ohms still went down.
it was reading at .15 when I locked it... Also cleaned it last night but ill try again.
 

maq1919

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Just a couple thoughts about the Pico mod itself. Of course you should have the latest firmware updated. Second most important thing that comes to mind is to clean the threading on the 510 connextions (tank and mod). Third is a problem I discovered a frw weeks after I got my Smok AL 85 and that is to clean the threading on the battery cap and mod where the cap screws on. those connections get black and funky and in my opinion affect the perforemance of the mod since that is where the negative connection is made back to the board.
Last point I would make is to not give up on the MeloIII tank just use either Super Tank .5 coils OR Eleaf .3 ECL coils.
ECL_01.jpg
Tobeco_Super_Tank_Mini_0.5_Ohm_Replacement_Coils_-_Vapor_Widgets.jpg

The extended juice openings of the coil really help with faster wicking especially when I'm chain vaping.
Good luck whatever you decide and VAPE ON!

Just cleaned it now and updated the firmware to 1.03 last night.
 

maq1919

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
I also think the temp is off. just stuck my subtank mini on and it reads a lower temp with much more vapor and heat opposed to my melo 3 reading very high and not much vapor. However the subtank with s00cc temp control coils is reading at .23 ohms now.
 

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I also think the temp is off. just stuck my subtank mini on and it reads a lower temp with much more vapor and heat opposed to my melo 3 reading very high and not much vapor. However the subtank with s00cc temp control coils is reading at .23 ohms now.

Is that after you have taken a hit, or at room temperature? As that is quite high as the coils are 0.15 if I am thinking of the same ones for the subtank Ni200 coils.

If it is reading a higher resistance, it will fire hotter, as it will be putting more voltage through the coil for the same power setting.

Just want to make sure of a few things- the mod is definitely in Ni200 mode yes, and not Ti or SS? Remember to lock coils at room temperature- take off the atomiser, press fire with the tank off, then as soon as you put it back on lock the resistance.

You don't really need it set at 75W for TC with those coils, I am thinking maybe temp protect is being hit immediately, but for some reason the power is then being throttled down but too much.
 

HondaDavidson

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
It was up to .15 ohms. I locked it then it went down to .14 again. The lock icon showed up but the ohms still went down.
Once you lock the resiatance..... stop looking at the ohm rate.. main reason it is going change based on how warm or cold the coil is. Hence the locking when cold. Give mod a constant ohm to regulate against.



Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
 

maq1919

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Is that after you have taken a hit, or at room temperature? As that is quite high as the coils are 0.15 if I am thinking of the same ones for the subtank Ni200 coils.

If it is reading a higher resistance, it will fire hotter, as it will be putting more voltage through the coil for the same power setting.

Just want to make sure of a few things- the mod is definitely in Ni200 mode yes, and not Ti or SS? Remember to lock coils at room temperature- take off the atomiser, press fire with the tank off, then as soon as you put it back on lock the resistance.

You don't really need it set at 75W for TC with those coils, I am thinking maybe temp protect is being hit immediately, but for some reason the power is then being throttled down but too much.
it's in ni mode. Ill try locking it after remove the tank and put it back on. It should be at room temp now.
 

maq1919

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
it's in ni mode. Ill try locking it after remove the tank and put it back on. It should be at room temp now.

I locked the ohms right after I put the tank on and did everything as described for the subtank. I have to change the melo 3 coil now cause it's burnt.
 

maq1919

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
The subtank seems to work once the ohms are locked. However I fried my coil messing with it. Also lowered the wattage to 70. That seemed to help a bit. I will clean both tanks tomorrow and change the coils and see what happens.
 

maq1919

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
I suppose I should ask, do you unlock the ohms with no tank attached then hit the fire button till you see the no atomizer message then reattach the tank and lock the ohms while the tank/coil and mod are at the same (room temperature) ? Follow this procedure every time you switch tanks too.
Something is causing your problem and sometimes you have to tear everything down clean it and start from the beginning. We all have had issues I'm sure and learning your way is half the fun.
Your right. Doing what you said solved the problem. Just put the coil in my melo 3 let it set for an hour and it works perfect. Thanks for all the help everyone!
 

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