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Everything vaping too warm for me?

uniman4

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Hopefully someone can help me with this, and I find it odd cause I have vaped for a while, but it's something I have been noticing more lately, and it's making my vape sessions less enjoyable.

Ok, for equipment i have a cuboid and a G1 Hohm Wrecker.

for tanks i have a uwell crown, herkales sense v2, and a Vaporesso Gemini.

Obviously I have decent equipment.

Ok, so it seems on both boths, and ANY tank i use, everything just seems to be vaping WAAAAY to warm. Almost to the point of making vaping unenjoyable. Sure, I like a warm vape every now and again, but I don't like every session to be OVERLY warm!

Dying for a nice COOL vape right now.

Obviously, I have the temp set at the lowest on both mods, which 200 degrees.

So, help me out, what is my option here? Do I need to switch equipment AGAIN, ho high OHM.

Need to do something here, don't i don't like hot vapor every darn time I hit my vape. HELP!!!

thoughts? Opinions?

Thank you very much!
 

AndriaD

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Hopefully someone can help me with this, and I find it odd cause I have vaped for a while, but it's something I have been noticing more lately, and it's making my vape sessions less enjoyable.

Ok, for equipment i have a cuboid and a G1 Hohm Wrecker.

for tanks i have a uwell crown, herkales sense v2, and a Vaporesso Gemini.

Obviously I have decent equipment.

Ok, so it seems on both boths, and ANY tank i use, everything just seems to be vaping WAAAAY to warm. Almost to the point of making vaping unenjoyable. Sure, I like a warm vape every now and again, but I don't like every session to be OVERLY warm!

Dying for a nice COOL vape right now.

Obviously, I have the temp set at the lowest on both mods, which 200 degrees.

So, help me out, what is my option here? Do I need to switch equipment AGAIN, ho high OHM.

Need to do something here, don't i don't like hot vapor every darn time I hit my vape. HELP!!!

thoughts? Opinions?

Thank you very much!

Well, I hate to break it to you, but it may be that the hardware you have is exactly the reason it's too warm. I'm a confirmed tootle puffer myself, 10W 2 ohms, and now that I'm trying out the stainless TC of my new CF4-TC-18650, I find that ITS lowest temp, 300F, is too warm for me. I'm going to build some different coils today, to see if I can get a TC vape that isn't too warm, but I dunno; 10w is a pretty cool vape, and I've been used to that for more than 2 yrs, so it may be that I can't ever get a vape I like when using TC settings.

My suggestion would be, TRY some higher-ohm builds, and use wattage rather than TC, and set the wattage low -- maybe start at 10w, and go up until you find the warmth you prefer and don't want it to be warmer than that. That's really the only way to know for sure, just try some different ways.

Andria
 

noejuice

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Rebuild. Tear everything out of the tank. Put in all brand new coils and cotton. Clean all the electrical contact points. Wash out the tank. Reboot (turn on and off) your boxes, use freshly charged batteries. If you completely start over with a whole fresh set up, and it's not right for you, then you'll be forced to find a new set up. You must find 'your personal vape.'

Everyone is doing this constantly and that's one of the reasons this site is so interesting. I'm not an 'expert' or anything but this has helped me cool off a hot, dry rig.
 
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AndriaD

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Well, I hate to break it to you, but it may be that the hardware you have is exactly the reason it's too warm. I'm a confirmed tootle puffer myself, 10W 2 ohms, and now that I'm trying out the stainless TC of my new CF4-TC-18650, I find that ITS lowest temp, 300F, is too warm for me. I'm going to build some different coils today, to see if I can get a TC vape that isn't too warm, but I dunno; 10w is a pretty cool vape, and I've been used to that for more than 2 yrs, so it may be that I can't ever get a vape I like when using TC settings.

My suggestion would be, TRY some higher-ohm builds, and use wattage rather than TC, and set the wattage low -- maybe start at 10w, and go up until you find the warmth you prefer and don't want it to be warmer than that. That's really the only way to know for sure, just try some different ways.

Andria

I wanted to follow up on this -- because I *was* able to get a GREAT vape using SS TC -- but using 28ga wire, not 26ga; 26ga is just too low resistance, which means, too hot. I've tried both 8 and 9 wraps of SS316L, around a 3/32 drillbit; the nine wraps is actually a little high, it's JUST under 1 ohm; the 8 wraps is better; the mod reports .78 ohms, and when fired, it jumps to .82 -- still under 1 ohm, so no problems with TC. I set my mod for 300-305F for starting out a new coil and wick, and i can go to 310F, with 30w ramp-up wattage, and it's still great, I mean REALLY great; just a smidge warmer than the 10w I've been accustomed to for a couple years, but not hot -- just GREAT!

The main thing is airflow -- I always have wanted a tight draw, and always WILL want a tight draw, so that means 1) very little airflow, and 2) very low wattage or temp -- because without massive airflow, you can't set it very high or the wick will burn. But with the attys you have, I'm not sure that's even possible; I think those are the WHOOSH! huffer type of attys, you have to direct-lung hit because they have MASSIVE airflow. If you've somehow gotten the airflow shut down so you can get a mouth-to-lung hit, then that's probably why they're too hot -- with low airflow, it REQUIRES low wattage and low temp.

Andria
 

gbalkam

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This might help. http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp? Note the "results" panel and the "heat flux". Red is hot, green is warm, blue is cool. You can adjust your builds on "paper" so to speak and build to the temp you like. This is also a great tool for building coils, even 2, 3, 4 strand twisted or claptoned. Basically, just select your type of wire, set the gauge, and then set the resistance. Adjust resistance until you see the temp you want in the "heat flux" section. Also, this may help.. Watts = voltage * voltage / resistance. More watts = more heat. A bit more complicated than just using the wire building page i linked, but this is HOW it works. :) Nerds like me need to now the 'how's
 

fq06

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Is that 200° Fahrenheit or Celsius? If you're on Celsius that's really hot. My wife mistakenly had hers in C and couldn't figure out why it was running so damn hot... it happens.

If not, then like everyones said reduce coil resistance and wattage. Maybe a 1.8 ohm Triton MTL coil for your vaperosso tank?
images-1.jpeg
 
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KDodds

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Actually, 200ºC is kind of low, just under 400ºF. I'm usually around 220-240ºC on Ni200, maybe 240-280ºC on SS316L.
 

fq06

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I guess it's not maxed but I like a warm vape (not hot but not cold) and vape at around 420-450F on a yihi chip. If he wants cool, 200 C could be a little on the warm side. I'm not a good judge of that though since my range is higher but andrea was saying even 300F (150C) is warm to her so maybe for the cool kids 200C might be on the high side?
And maybe he's not in C and it's irrelevant. But I'm not sure many or any mods will go down to 200F?

Edit: yeah... guess so, my 350j goes down to 212F... but it literally produces zero vapor at that temp
 
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Huckleberried

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Buy higher resistance coils (if they even have them), OR buy a RTA so that you can wrap to your own personal preference. That's something I hate about some of the newer subohm tanks, you just don't have the option to buy higher ohm.
 

fq06

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That 1.8 triton coil will make any of the tanks (lots of them) that accept that coil an instant mtl tank. That chamber is pinner.

I think it will even work in the herkales tank but the herkales wont work in triton/atlatis because no top threads. So that should work in 2 out of his 3 tanks.

Ps. Glad to see your happy Huckleberried avitar back:D
 
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gbalkam

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Buy higher resistance coils (if they even have them), OR buy a RTA so that you can wrap to your own personal preference. That's something I hate about some of the newer subohm tanks, you just don't have the option to buy higher ohm.
I use RDAs (Rebuild-able Drip Atomizers) pretty much exclusively. Properly wicked, if you get one with a fairly deep juice well ( I like TwistedMesses, Tsunami, and a Temple (30mm base)) you can vape for an hour or so without redripping. Now that is not sitting there chain puffing for an hour, but four or 5 puffs with a break, then a few more, and a break.. I mean, even at my 3mg, I start getting nic sic after 15 minutes. LOL. I even use them when I go out.. I save my small 5ml and 10ml juice bottles.
 

dcarpentier

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Ive never used a mod with temp control, so Im curious..
Is it possible that the lowest temp is only the limit of the sensor.. and that if you switch to watts mode instead that you could reduce the heat even more ?
 

fq06

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Member For 4 Years
You should be able to take both down to little to no vapor.
The more you reduce temp or watts, the less heat is generated and less vapor.

TC really just allows you to get your coil up to temp quickly but not have the temperature run away from you later in the hit.

If you use watts you need lets say 50w for your coil so it is warm before you are 2/3rd way through the pull but 50w may be so much that at the end of the pull it is getting warmer than you would like.

TC allws you to set watts at 50+ so you get the coil up to temp when you start your pull but then once it has reached whatever set temp you are looking for it will reduce watts to moderate that temp... whatever that may be... maybe it pulls it back to 36.3w or whatever it needs to be at.
So you can set watts low and have a slow ramp up or set watts high and have a quick ramp up but all ending at the same coil heat.
 
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fq06

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I guess you could look at is as you could run a cooler vape because running at such a low watt for your chosen coil to get a cool vape it could take forever to heat up. But with TC you can run high enough power to get heat in the coil and then the mod will moderate power to keep the coil at a low temp
 

AndriaD

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Ive never used a mod with temp control, so Im curious..
Is it possible that the lowest temp is only the limit of the sensor.. and that if you switch to watts mode instead that you could reduce the heat even more ?

Yes, most definitely. My preferred 10w is considerably cooler than 300F.

Andria
 

MyMagicMist

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My suggestion would be, TRY some higher-ohm builds, and use wattage rather than TC, and set the wattage low -- maybe start at 10w, and go up until you find the warmth you prefer and don't want it to be warmer than that. That's really the only way to know for sure, just try some different ways.

Andria
The main thing is airflow -- I always have wanted a tight draw, and always WILL want a tight draw, so that means 1) very little airflow, and 2) very low wattage or temp -- because without massive airflow, you can't set it very high or the wick will burn. But with the attys you have, I'm not sure that's even possible; I think those are the WHOOSH! huffer type of attys, you have to direct-lung hit because they have MASSIVE airflow. If you've somehow gotten the airflow shut down so you can get a mouth-to-lung hit, then that's probably why they're too hot -- with low airflow, it REQUIRES low wattage and low temp.

Andria

The combination stated above is where to begin. Build/buy higher resistance coils & ensure you have proper your RDA/RTA properly fit with wick, and airflow is set properly. Ensure with airflow that your airflow is directed toward the coil/s without obstruction. Also be sure your wick is soaking up juice adequately. If it is not tear it out and put another wick/s in place until you get the wick/s drawing juice from one side to the other of the coil/s without getting discolored. Higher resistance coil/s mean less draw off the battery, equaling a cooler vape too. :)
 

AndriaD

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The combination stated above is where to begin. Build/buy higher resistance coils & ensure you have proper your RDA/RTA properly fit with wick, and airflow is set properly. Ensure with airflow that your airflow is directed toward the coil/s without obstruction. Also be sure your wick is soaking up juice adequately. If it is not tear it out and put another wick/s in place until you get the wick/s drawing juice from one side to the other of the coil/s without getting discolored. Higher resistance coil/s mean less draw off the battery, equaling a cooler vape too. :)

Yes! Everyone carries on like wrapping a wire around a drillbit is so ungodly hard, but a 6 yr old could do it. The wicking is the REAL challenge. And I've been building coils and wicking them for well over 2 yrs now, and sometimes I STILL manage to get too much wick in there, it starts tasting like wet and/or burnt cotton, and I have to pull it and do it again.

Andria
 

dogtron66

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I have an evic mini that will go down to 200°F in TC.

Its one of my oldest and most cherished mods, and I still use it daily... LOL
 

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