First time mech mod user

[cloudniners]

I've read a lot about ohms law and battery safety and now I've understood a few key things..

I = V/R

The coil resistance would be the only thing to play with right now... and as i understand as long as i don't max out the continous discharge rating of the battery when it comes to my coil builds i would generally be safe...

As the battery loses it's juice after some usage.. the voltage delivered would be reduced.. so the amps it's drawing would be lowered.. so the vapor production lowers as the battery drains..

For the atty.. the 510 pin has to protrude to avoid shorts

Is everything i know correct or did i miss any basic safety precautions

BTW.. I've just gotten myself an Avid Lyfe Able..

 

[r055co]

OK the pin has to protrude, I do NOT recommend adjustable 510 pins for they have a tendency to back back in and if it didn't protrude enough in the first place you're fucked.

Stay aware of the temp of the battery, if it's warm I wouldn't stress cause that could very well be heat from the atty. But if the battery's hot that's no good.

I also highly recommend vaping any new builds on a regulated mod just to insure nothing is wonky with your build. Every build I do I vape a good couple of drips before I move it to my Mech.

I'm assuming you did your research on battery safety, know to only stick with Mooch's recommended batteries that he's tested. That and the wrap's, arching, hot buttons and keeping it clean. If not ask.

I usually charge around 3.6v, sometimes with one of my Mech's that have a very low voltage drop I've went down to 3.2v. The danger point is around 2.6 which you should toss the battery, stay above 3.0v, this is per Mooch.

Take some time and watch this with Mooch, awesome information.

 

[nightshard]

The atty 510 has to either be non adjustable and protrude or be adjustable and reverse threaded, in order to be used safely in case of using a mech with a hybrid connection.

Always measure the resistance of you builds before using them on the mech, even if you think you already know what the resistance is.

Choose your battery based on what wattage you intend to reach (and what resistance you intend to use), either 20A high capacity battery for low wattage or 30A low capacity for high wattage, or something in between (25A).

For figuring out your max amperage use 4.2V for worst case scenario.
For getting an idea of what the average wattage is going to be use 3.7V.

Don't forget to lock your mech when put aside (if it has a button locking mechanism).

Regularly take apart and clean the contacts, especially if made from brass or copper.

 

[r055co]

Oh and I have to say this, a hybrid style connection isn't really the best Mech to start with for Newbies. You have to be extra, extra careful or really bad things can happen. I myself my first Mech was the Noisy Cricket but I did have enough sense to really dive in and do my homework before I used it.

Just do your homework, ask a lot of questions here and don't be stupid. You need to be extra cautious but you can get it and be perfectly safe "if" you do your homework.

 

[r055co]

When I carry my Mech's and I'm not using them they're in a case. I troll around for hard drive cases, some Vape specific cases and have a number of them.

 

[nightshard]

Oh almost forgot, only use LG, Samsung or Sony batteries and none of those Efest, Imren, AWT, MXJO crap.
Make sure you buy them from a reputable battery supplier.

 

[r055co]

Also invest in battery wraps, they're cheap and easy to apply. I also recommend having insulator rings also on hand. I've gotten a bunch from imrbatteries.com but my favorite place to get wraps is here, they have excellent quality, selection and insulator rings also -

http://battwrap.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1&zenid=c9320c8fcf7359dc6c7800a68a1a298a

 

[nightshard]

Though possible, pulse vaping should only be done by experts and in moderation!
If you want more then what a single 30A can deliver don't push it, consider getting a parallel or serial mech box instead.

 

[Iliketurtles]

You will see that on Mooch's recommended batteries at the moment both Efest and AWT batteries are featured. The reason we are always against them is that they don't manufacture the batteries they re-wrap somebody else batteries and therefore the battery that is underneath their wrap can change at any time....so we can't trust them to be the same from one batch to the next.

 

[r055co]

You will see that on Mooch's recommended batteries at the moment both Efest and AWT batteries are featured. The reason we are always against them is that they don't manufacture the batteries they re-wrap somebody else batteries and therefore the battery that is underneath their wrap can change at any time....so we can't trust them to be the same from one batch to the next.

Those are only for 26650 and 18350's due to no one really knows who manufactures those sizes. He doesn't have any of those trash companies in with the 18650's

 

[nightshard]

You will see that on Mooch's recommended batteries at the moment both Efest and AWT batteries are featured. The reason we are always against them is that they don't manufacture the batteries they re-wrap somebody else batteries and therefore the battery that is underneath their wrap can change at any time....so we can't trust them to be the same from one batch to the next.

AWT and Efest are only on Mooche's recommended 18350 and 26650 batteries and that's only because the big manufacturers don't make them so there is nothing better to choose from.
This is not the case with 18650.
My advice still stands, don't use rewraps, especially not with mechs.

While 18650 rewraps will contain a cell made by LG, Samsung or Sony in most cases there is no assurance to that and the cell can change on a whim and without notice.

 

[Iliketurtles]

Those are only for 26650 and 18350's due to no one really knows who manufactures those sizes. He doesn't have any of those trash companies in with the 18650's

That AND even when they rewrap a good battery they usually put misleading information on it with highly inflated CDR and Mah numbers, just steer well clear

 

[nightshard]

That AND even when they rewrap a good battery they usually put misleading information on it with highly inflated CDR and Mah numbers, just steer well clear

And charge you more then the the actual cell would cost you, so it's a loose loose situation.
Don't buy rewraps.

 

[cloudniners]

Thanks guys.. I'll be hitting up my Mutation XS on the Able...

I'll be starting off at 1 ohm first to be safe.. until I'm used to it.. then I'll build a bit lower..