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First time vaper with spitting

I just got my first vape today, an eVic Basic 40W. I have it at 20W 1.5 ohm 5.5V and it is popping and spitting. I'm doing MTL and right now you can see the tank appears to be a little less than half full. I've heard spitting is an issue with this vape, but I heard it's not much of a problem with MTL setup. I also was told I should lower the Watts , but would that help with the popping and spitting? I just haven't figured out how to lower it yet.

 

JuicyLucy

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Definitely try turning down the wattage on that 1.5 ohm coil - 20W is way too high

I don't have an Evic, but there is probably a couple of buttons below the screen, one will up the wattage, the other lower it

Good luck!
 

gbalkam

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Keep in mind, in the video you are not drawing on the atomizer to create air flow. Try increasing your power to 25 watts, and adjust the air flow. The spitting is because your power is to low to evaporate the excess juice from the coil, the popping is just air bubbles in the wick (this is normal and a few minutes vaping will fix this too)
 

r055co

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Keep in mind, in the video you are not drawing on the atomizer to create air flow. Try increasing your power to 25 watts, and adjust the air flow. The spitting is because your power is to low to evaporate the excess juice from the coil, the popping is just air bubbles in the wick (this is normal and a few minutes vaping will fix this too)
20W is to high for a factory coil already ;)
 

eSMOKA

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I also was told I should lower the Watts...haven't figured out how to lower it yet.

eVic_Basic_02.png




Operating Manual:
http://www.joyetech.com/download/?mid=179968


From my experience, popping and spitting has always been due to the wick absorbing too much juice at a higher rate than it can vaporize it. The next step will be flooding if your juice is too thin.

So if this is in fact the case, that your juice is too thin, you would have to increase the wattage to vaporize it faster. If you're coil can't take that higher wattage and you don;t like the hotter vape you get at the higher wattage, then you will have to use a slightly thicker juice than what you're using now if you want to keep using that coil.

However sometimes, as the coil/wick get's a little gunked up, the popping and spitback goes away. Depends on the coil and other factors.
 
Operating Manual:
http://www.joyetech.com/download/?mid=179968


From my experience, popping and spitting has always been due to the wick absorbing too much juice at a higher rate than it can vaporize it. The next step will be flooding if your juice is too thin.

So if this is in fact the case, that your juice is too thin, you would have to increase the wattage to vaporize it faster. If you're coil can't take that higher wattage and you don;t like the hotter vape you get at the higher wattage, then you will have to use a slightly thicker juice than what you're using now if you want to keep using that coil.

However sometimes, as the coil/wick get's a little gunked up, the popping and spitback goes away. Depends on the coil and other factors.

So it looks like I can only change Watts in VT mode. That's easy enough, but how will I know what temperature to set it at or around what temperature because I'm clueless?
 

bobnat

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I remember when I got my first regulated mod and it spit at me.hqdefault.jpg
 

fq06

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I don't believe that 1.5 coil is SS or any other TC compatible wire so you should just be in watt mode.
If clueless, watt (or power) mode will work with kanthal or SS coils and there's not much to it. Want it warmer? Turn it up. Too hot? Turn it down.

If the coil is flooded in the cubis tank, turn it upside down and flick the juice out of it to clear it.
If that coil is the same one I am thinking of, you can adjust the juice flow holes so try close them off half way. It is also a clapton so even though it's a 1.5 ohm coil, it may need more than 20w.

From my experience spitting coils don't have enough power to vaporize, just enough to boil. Could be too much juice flowing to the wick or not enough power or both.
 
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eSMOKA

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Read this whole post before you do anything because it's not in order...lol

The user manual I linked to should tell you almost everything you need to know about the operation of the mod. like fq06 said, if your coil is 1.5 ohms, I doubt it is a temp control (TC) coil as they are usually under 1 ohm (aka sub-ohm). You never want to vape a non-TC coil in TC. Just leave it in wattage (aka VW aka variable wattage) mode. Unless your coil is Ti (Titanium), Ni (Nickel) or SS (Stainless Steel), it is either made of Kanthal or Nichrome and should not be vaped in TC mode.

I admit, I never did watch your vid before when I posted. i just did now and there is no question, your coil is really flooded. I know that sound anywhere LOL.

Seeing how the Cubis is a top airflow tank and a 1.5 ohm coil, I 'm going to guess that coil is a Joyetech LVC coil. I hate them. They flood very easily on my 50%PG juice and burn out (need changed) quickly for me.

The good news is that the LVC coil head has a juice control ring at the bottom. To adjust it, you just open the tank like you want to change the coil. At the bottom of the coil, you will see a metal ring with a hole in it. That adjusts the flow of juice to you wick & coil. You'll want to close that more than it is. I had to close mine pretty much completely, but then I ended up burning my wick when I took a huge, long hit. But the difference between you and me is that you are a mouth hitter, I'm a lung hitter.

BUT, before you open the tank to adjust the ring on the coil, close the air flow at the top of the tank, then blow into the tank rather hard. this will force some of the juice out of your coil and back into the tank. keep a paper towel handy as a little juice might come out of the airflow holes even though they are closed. Do this a couple times then fire the mod and listen to see if it's still sounds flooded link in your vid. If it still sounds flooded, try it again. Eventually it will get unflooded. Don't hold the fire button too long, you don't want to burn your cotton wick. You just want to burn off a little juice and listen for the flooding swishy sound to turn into a nice even sizzle. Once you get that sizzle, your done with unflooding the tank. Now you need to open the tank like I said before to close up the juice flow ring on your coil so we can try to prevent flooding again.

After you close the juice flow ring some and try to vape and you get flooded again, do everything above again until you get to a point where you can vape and it no longer floods on you.

3 things to take into consideration.

#1 When you set your vape down for the night or for long periods of time, make it a habit to close the top airflow on the tank. This can help stop it from flooding while it sits. I have this problem on my Joyetech Elitar Pipe mod with both the LVC and BF coils. Unfortunately, this does not always work. I have found the best way to keep it from flooding when it sits is to store the tank upside down making sure the tank is no more than half full. The reason this works is because on both the LVC and the BF coils the juice hole are near the bottom (LVC) or on the bottom (BF) coil head so as long as there is no juice around the juice holes in the coil, it won't have a chance to flood overnight. I know this isn't ideal, but it's the only way I know of to stop it from flooding while it sits for long periods.

#2 since you are a mouth hitter, if you cannot get the coil to stop flooding on you while you are vaping, your problem might be in your draw (in conjunction with getting the juice flow on the coil adjusted properly for you). The harder you draw,the more juice you pull into the coil. Lighten up on your draw. Don't draw like it's a cigarette. It's not a cigarette!!!! lol

#3 Realize that the tighter you adjust your airflow, the more juice you are going to get flowing when you draw. The more open your airflow is set, the less juice you will pull in as you draw on the tank so this can help your tank to not flood as you vape. I know, I know, but you like a tighter draw. I used to be the same way, but I got used to it. If you're serious about vaping and not smoke, there are some sacrifices you'll have to make and some things you will need to change as far as your drawing habits are concerned. That's just the unfortunate reality for some people.

Recommendation:

I don't have a cubis tank but I have the elitar tank which takes the same coils and is also top air flow. So in my personal opinion I strongly recommend you ditch those LVC coils and just go with BF coils. They flood less for low wattage vapers using thinner juice (I vape no higher than 18W with 50/50 juice). problem is, what works for one person may not work for you. If the cubis doesn't work out for you no matter which coil you use, unfortunately you will have to find a tank that is better suited for you...which is hard to do unless you find someone with your exact vaping style who can recommend something for you. However, if you're using 50/50 juice like me (or close to it), just switching to a thicker juice (higher VG, like 70% or more) may solve your problems almost completely.

I know this is a lot of info, but switching to vaping isn't an easy transition for a lot of people. That's the downside to beginning vaping for some.
 
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gbalkam

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So it looks like I can only change Watts in VT mode. That's easy enough, but how will I know what temperature to set it at or around what temperature because I'm clueless?
Don't bother with TC mode until you are more familiar with your wattage settings. I'm not sure if your mod works the same way, but with mine, I have to set the wattage first, and THEN switch to TC to adjust the temp control. I rarely use TC anyway. Some people like it.. i can't really be bothered. LOL Its more work to switch to TC than to just add or subtract a watt or 2 of power.
 

fq06

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Also, if you do take the top cap off to close off the juice flow holes on the coil, if thats the coil you have...
Don't get frustrated if after you put the top cap back on it is flooded again.

That tank will flood just about every time you put the top cap on because the last half turn pressurizes the tank and juice has nowhere to go other than into the coils wick.

My wife has had that tank forever and if it has sat for a while or I filled the tank / changed coil... I turn it upside down and flick the juice out through the top.

Sadly, that is joyetech's official recomendation to work around the tanks flaw.
 

fq06

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Speaking of my wife having that tank, over the past couple years that she's had it... the Stainless 1.0 ohm MTL coil is her favorite and gives the least spit of any of the cubis coils.
 

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