Frustrated like never before!

Discussion in 'New Builders Corner' started by bugalien, Nov 28, 2017.

  1. bugalien

    bugalien Bronze Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    I have never had an experience like last night and today. I gave up after snapping the 1st coil lead last night because I had to be up early.

    Yesterday, I got Wotofo Sapor (for myself), a Freak Show V2, and a Battlestar 200 mod for my husband in the mail. I installed the twisted coils that came with the Freak Show into it and gave it to my husband to wick and use on his new Battlestar no problems.

    I pretty much have been only using some 24 g kanthal wire to make simple coils for my RDAs, no issues with installation onto the CCI Archons (velocity and 3 post decks), my little Vaperz Cloud Nuevo, or my VC Mini Buddha 2.

    I feel bad that I laughed at my husband for snapping that wire a few times in a row when I showed him how to build on the Archon. I take it back, I really do.

    Now with the Sapor comes the ohms changing as soon as I heat the coils, and the snapping coils! Over and over. Really fuckin bad!!!! I just snapped 4 damn coils! WTF?

    Finally, I was able to get a pair on there that stopped changing ohms after some tuning and tightening. I was going for around .42 ohms with a dual coil build of 24 g kanthal wrapped 9 times around a 3mm screwdriver. It is reading .38 on my 50 watt Aspire Zelos mod, and .373 on my Smok Majesty. At least it vapes now but DAMN!

    Is it the Sapor RDA, the screws or posts, or just me?

    My husband says maybe the screws are sharp and need a little sanding or something.

    I am using the same damn wire and techniques I always do. I do have to move the first installed coil a bit to clip the middle lead on the second coil. I don't know, but I am still so mad about the whole thing.

    Has anyone else had this damn wire snapping issue?
     
  2. MarkS

    MarkS Gold Contributor Member For 2 Years

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    Not on that Atty (don't have that one) but I did have one that would shear the leads due to the posts being hollow below the lead holes. I ended up filling the hollow stem with SS wire and drilling out the lead holes.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  3. JuicyLucy

    JuicyLucy My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic VU Donator Diamond Contributor Member For 1 Year ECF Refugee

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    Odd, never heard of this problem but yours might have such a issue

    Sapor is the only dripper I use and have for over a year now

    Wonder what is up with yours?
     
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  4. bugalien

    bugalien Bronze Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    I think you are on to something. The screws did seem to go down a bit bast the lowest part of the post holes. I cant see very well and had to get out the granny glasses to build on the atty. When I next have it open I will take a better look. Though I haven't the damn patience to fuck with it now.
     
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  5. bugalien

    bugalien Bronze Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    What kinds of coils do you usually use? I was thinking that claptons or some wider fancy stuff would be better for this RDA when I was failing with it. I just prefer regular coils to the fancier ones I have tried, due to simplicity, ramp up, and battery consumption.
    I really like it other than the troubles I have had with snapping wire. I like the idea of a small and leak resistant atty for everyday use. Plus it is in the color that looks halfway decent on my new mod, and doesn't have paint inside the barrel. I really am willing to work with this.

    As a matter of fact, I watched a video of a lady building just my kind of coils on one and she snapped it! She just cussed, and edited out the rest of building, not mentioning it again like it was her and not the RDA. LOL!

    Here it is: At around 13:49
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2017
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  6. mach1ne

    mach1ne Silver Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    i love the sapor. its one of my favorite 22mm rdas. it was either my first or second rda (got this and an alliance v2 in my first week, cant remember which was first) when i was brand new to building. i mainly use mine on a tube with a micro fused clapton build. i cant remember ever clipping a lead off during installation though. is it always the same post hole? maybe see if you can wrap some high grit sand paper around a toothpick or something that fits in the hole and try to clean up any sharp spots...and remove the screws to check that they dont have a sharp spot somewhere too. if its not a specific post/screw i dont know what else to suggest. mine has been so good to me that i still recommend it to people to this day.

    my main problem with the thing is that it seems to be really picky about wick and coil placement. i have had a great build in there instantly go to 'meh' after a re-wicking. i realized i was sloppy about it and i went back and carefully tidied it all up and it went back to great. i have never noticed any other setup being so picky that a few seconds of tidying up with wicks will do that. i use small coils with thin wicks and i like them to hang straight down to the deck without touching anything, and very little excess touching the bottom. coils about 1mm from the air holes in the top cap.
     
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  7. JuicyLucy

    JuicyLucy My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic VU Donator Diamond Contributor Member For 1 Year ECF Refugee

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    28 gauge SS 316Elite - nothing special at all

    Of course, sometimes manufacturing practices change, mine is well over a year old, but it is my go-to for testing juice, so I rewick it a lot
     
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  8. Pegleg Meg

    Pegleg Meg Bronze Contributor ECF Refugee

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    I used the Sapor for a long time, never snapped 24 guage wire that's crazy lol. I did have an issue with the center post moving, but I could just jam it back in.

    Are your leads snapping, or melting? Is it when you're tightening, or dry burning?

    If it's snapping when you tighten, may try sanding the inside of the post holes a bit, sounds like a Very sharp edge. Snapping 24awg just blows my mind. That's the exact wire I started with because I was Sure it could take a beating by my noob hands haha

    Sorry if any of these questions are "duh" for you, always start simple with troubleshooting...

    Also tighten grub screws less? Or get in there amd wash the crap out of it, might be metal shavings causing ohms.to go crazy
     
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  9. bugalien

    bugalien Bronze Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    I really want to love it as well. The VC Nuevo is a little picky too, but I know I break the airflow rules with that one. I build one coil in the middle and put the holes caddy corner to the coils with a specific direction to the wick placement on that one. Hehe.
     
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  10. mach1ne

    mach1ne Silver Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    i hope you get it sorted out. if anything, i guess snapping coil legs off in the post holes will eventually dull them enough to fix it hopefully ;) good luck :cheers:
     
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  11. bugalien

    bugalien Bronze Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    I have no idea. I doubt it is melting though.
    It will seem fine until I start glowing the coils, then the Majesty mod will change ohms to a bit lower and ask if that is the new coil. Then as I tighten a bit and try to tune, I snap the wire in an obvious fashion with a careful and gentle turn of the screw. It has happened on 2 different posts at least. A positive and a negative! The Majesty mod seems to attempt to read and ask me when it detects changes. I only have prior experience with the alien and the Zelos just automatically reads and changes readings. If this happened on the alien, I think the prompts would be different. I should have tested on all 3 mods and the Battlestar too, but I figured 2 mods was enough for ohm reading at the time.
     
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  12. bugalien

    bugalien Bronze Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    :blah:

    ROFL!

    I can only hope it does not happen that way. I will not put up with it that many times. :cuss2:

    I will sand the problem areas first.
     
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  13. bugalien

    bugalien Bronze Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    I started messing with coil building in February, but posted in the " New builders corner" for a reason. Any and all advice or troubleshooting will be considered!
     
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  14. gbalkam

    gbalkam Silver Contributor Member For 1 Year ECF Refugee

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    I haven't seen this problem in any authentic atomizers, but... in one of my clones, the post screw holes went to far down past the holes for the coils. Basically, snipping the wire just like nail clippers would. To fix this.. i stripped some of the plastic from a metal coat hanger and dropped it down inside the post. I had to tap it out and file it a bit to get the fit right, (or drill through it if its close to fitting) but it worked.
     
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  15. bugalien

    bugalien Bronze Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    I scratched the code and verified that I was the first to use it after discovering that the rda leaks from the pin and into my mod! I will really have to take the whole thing apart and check it out. I must have gotten a bad example of the rda. :facepalm:
     
  16. Pegleg Meg

    Pegleg Meg Bronze Contributor ECF Refugee

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    Try yanking out that center post(s) and clean out the hole. Might be dirt or metal in there. Then smushing that center post back in, make sure the square metal is lined up with the square PEEK insulator. Not hard to do since the positive and negative posts end up being level.

    EDIT I dont remember if you need to unscrew the 510 pin first or not, chexk that before Yanking lol
     
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  17. Pegleg Meg

    Pegleg Meg Bronze Contributor ECF Refugee

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    The sapor has been out a long time, it might even have Rust in there
     
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  18. bugalien

    bugalien Bronze Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    I unscrewed the 510 and put a tiny o-ring in there so I can see if that stops it first. Just so I can vape for the time being. I google searched rda leaking 510 and actually was surprised to see the sapor come up as the first result and at least 2 more on the same page! I was surprised because of all of the great reviews on the thing before I purchased it. It was only 14 bucks anyway but thought it would match the reviews. haha

    I got it from Element Vape and still like it, it is just a WIP I guess.
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2017
  19. bugalien

    bugalien Bronze Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    I really mean to dismantle the thing and give it a thorough cleaning when I am in the mood. I did not go crazy on the cleaning before I used it. It had a grainy feel of metal shavings to it when I unboxed it.

    There is a possibility something is in there that is screwing things up, but there is definitely something about the parts that makes it a wire cutter.:teehee:
     
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  20. fq06

    fq06 Gold Contributor Member For 3 Years

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    Once you have dry burned the coil to get the oil and whatever else may be on the wire burned off, stop. Don't glow it to a nuclear red.
    Remove atomizer, let the coil cool to room temp and put it back on. If it asks if it is a new coil, answer yes. Don't fuck with it after that.

    Wick & vape.

    What you are describing is perplexing and it could have something to do with some or all of what people have said above but for now if you just want to vape it, it seems your problem is after you glow it and then tighten down on a more brittle glowed metal.

    Putting the grub screws on an allen wrench to hold them and sanding the head down a little to smooth out any sharp transitions like your hubby mentioned may also help.
     
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  21. bugalien

    bugalien Bronze Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    Thanks for the advice. :)

    It has been vaping ok since last night when I sweet talked those coils in there before creating this thread. The leaking may or may not be resolved with my placement of the tiny o-ring. I am still testing that. Thank the CCI Archon for including all those little parts and that nifty screwdriver with tiny o-rings that are the perfect size of inside the 510. I took one of those. ;)

    I snapped a cool coil too. hehe I don't tighten red coils and give it time to get warm at the very least. My mod detected an ohm change while I was attempting dry burning then stopped firing to ask me if it was new coil, so that prompted me to tighten up the screws, but not while they were aglow. Nope. I have been burned by messing with hot coils and the alan key that comes with this is short!
    I make it a point to get my final resistance reading on a room temp coil. I have done this several times without ever snapping that wire on 4 other RDAS. But I do glow the coils to tune and make them burn evenly before I wick it. I don't like a poppy snappy vape.:eek: :blech:

    I think there are definitley some sharp edges in there, but will not rule out all the other things that could be happening. It is just that these difficulties have not happened to me before.
     
  22. fq06

    fq06 Gold Contributor Member For 3 Years

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    The resistance will change as the coil heats up if your mod displays a live reading and most do. Usually resistance rises a hair after a you dry burn a new coil and that's ok. Seems like yours is going lower which is odd.

    Some (most) of the older atomizers are not anywhere near as stable as the newer ones which made temp control a pain back in the day. Resistance would move if you looked at them wrong.

    Asking if you have a new coil without removing the attomizer is strange though. Most mods will only do that if you remove the atomizer, hit the fire button and put the attomizer back on with a warmer or cooler coil temp than what youbset it at last time.

    Try sanding the head of the grub screw a bit to take any edges off of it on a piece of samd paper laid flat on a table. And like you or someone else said, sand the hole a bit to get any burrs out that may be hiding in there.

    24g wire should not be snapping even after it is tempered and more brittle than before you dry fired it. Something sharp is cutting it, what is cutting it? That's the dilemma I guess :)
     
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  23. bugalien

    bugalien Bronze Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    This mod is strange like that. When i remove the atty, fire, and replace it, it doesnt ask unless it detects different ohms. The memory seems to keep the reading that way. It has driven me a little nuts as I got used to the alien and how it works. Or the zelos that constantly detects and adjusts. Maybe it is losing connection somehow? The ohms going lower really does confuse me as when a coil has come lose on me or broken in the past the ohms always went up and not down. Maybe a short? I really dont know. :-(

    I really need to take apart that Rda and check out the insulator area. That may be one of the issues with the ohms dipping like that.

    Like my thread title, the whole thing frustrates me. New atty and mod is making me not enjoy them as much as I feel I should.

    The Smok Majesty mod doesnt act up with my other atomizers though. Just the sapor.

    Although my Nuevo likes to make the ohms jump sometimes, but I know it is due for a break down and good scrubbing. Not wrapping and replacing coils unless they are bent up and I feel I have to, I usually just dry burn and rewick so I am sure there is junk all up in that thing. It was my most used RDA. So tiny and pretty, good for lower profile and not so in your face IMO. That is one of the things I want out of the Sapor, but it whistles with wide open air. D-: It is a good thing I like to close the air down a bit. Lol.


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  24. fq06

    fq06 Gold Contributor Member For 3 Years

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    Sounds like a frustrating time with your gear, sorry to hear.

    A short should cause a check atomizer warning or something along those lines and not fire at all but a teardown and inspection is probably worth the time.

    I also don't change coils that often unless they are starting to get heavy oxidation.

    I loathe a whistling atomizer, the ones I've had go in the junk/PIF pile.

    Good luck with your quest for stable ohms and lack of leaking :cheers:
     
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  25. gbalkam

    gbalkam Silver Contributor Member For 1 Year ECF Refugee

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    Most often, a leaking RDA is caused by... Over filling the juice reservoir, accidentally getting ejuic in the vent "pipes" (air flow) or wick is hanging out and touching the sides of the atomizer chimney, (heats up and runs down outside the base) *or squeegies down when you put the chimney back on after filling*
     
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  26. bugalien

    bugalien Bronze Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    Thanks.

    I get that problem all the time with my other rdas (ring of juice under the atty is a common occurance for me), but this one only leaked from the 510 pin. Juice only in the 510 and when I touched the screw to my hand it would leave a little wet spot from only there.

    I think I fixed it with that o-ring though, and this sapor hasn't yet left my usual ring of juice from the airflow or the place where the top meets the deck.

    It would probably be a miracle if I dont get that top meets deck leak, given some time and use. It always happens, especially when it cools down at night. Lol

    Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
     
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  27. Pegleg Meg

    Pegleg Meg Bronze Contributor ECF Refugee

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    Do you use the wider drip tip? I used to drip in there, and blow a little to spread it out and push it down away from the air slots
     
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  28. bugalien

    bugalien Bronze Contributor Member For 1 Year

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    Im using the metal one now but will probable switch to the wider one when I go to work this afternoon. It is easier to drip down the middle without fiddling with it. I only get a short break at a dirty table and dont have a place to set my tip without it picking up cigarette ashes or something possibly even nastier.

    I prefer a dense creamy vape sometimes and close my airflow alot for that. This metal tip is good for that but gets too warm. I should try my little plastic 510 too but it might whistle even worse. D-:

    Those wide chuff caps are perfect for a silent and easy to drip time so good for at work. The smokers already look at me and my vape, I dont want to whistle to draw more attention to some of the less than ideal parts of vaping. Kind of embarrassing and less likely to be a good influence. Lol

    Maybe more smokers will quit and vape if they don't see all the hard work it takes to get a good vape. Haha.

    Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
     
  29. fq06

    fq06 Gold Contributor Member For 3 Years

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    One think to do to eliminate the juice ring under the cap is get a squonker :D
    Never remove the cap, juice doesn't flow down the walls of the cap after dripping. Just squonk it up through the 510 pin and it's dripper bliss :bingo:
     
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  30. gbalkam

    gbalkam Silver Contributor Member For 1 Year ECF Refugee

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    You might like to consider something like Ijoy RDTA Combo. You wick and coil it like an RDA but has a tank on the bottom and holds 5ml ejuice. One thing.. when you start a new wick, prime from both sides but very little on the actual coil, to prevent spitting. It comes with a wide drip tip for clouds and a smaller one for flavor.
    [​IMG]
    Tilting your mod to vape (like you do anyway) wets the wick and turning the mod upside down for 2 seconds every 8 to 10 pulls gives it a good wetting.
     

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