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FUhattan Voltage Drop Question

CloudChaserDMV

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Does anyone know the difference in the voltage drop between the Fuhattan Copper mod and the Fuhattan carbon (carbon fiber) mod?

Ameraclone Fuhattan (Ameravape Manhattan Clone)
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fq06

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Assuming the same manufacturer and the same metal (brass- brass copper-copper), no difference. That's just a carbon wrap.
 

fq06

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If your not building below 0.3 ohms, a small variance in voltage drop wouldn't make a big difference in your vape anyway.
 

efektt

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Why does everyone love these? I have one and am not impressed at all. My copper nemi is much better.
 

fq06

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I've never used one. They are all a metal tube with a switch though, button design is the biggest thing to set one another apart. Some like magnet, some don't. Some like lock rings, some don't.
Next is how the tube is decorated or aesthetics.
 

Rommel

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Hard hitting workhorse. Firing button is absolutely glorious, best i've used. Heavy, sturdy and reliable mod with very little voltage drop. I love mine.

Firing button or the body never ever gets hot, even when super sub-ohming 0.08 - 0.06. Great for cloud chasing.
 

OB61887

Am I saying meow?
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I'm with @fq06 They are just metal tubes with a button. I like the magnetic button and the 3 piece setup. I also like that it costs $20 with a very low voltage drop. I like the 510 pin in that you can adjust it without a screwdriver. All I want in a mech is a good magnetic button, venting, an easy 510 connection, and low voltage drop. This has those at a low price. Although I wish the venting was a little better.

Edit: And I love the packaging.
 

Number3124

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I love my FUhattan. When I press the button with the top cap off I can see the eight or so vent holes in the bottom of the tube. It has a floating positive pin. The 510 threads are buttery. It's a workhorse, and the voltage drop is negligible.

To answer the OP's question, there's no difference between the black and copper. The black is just a carbon fiber wrap. Anyway, that copper on the outside of the tube of the copper FUhattan isn't actually what's completing the circuit between the RDA and the firing button. If it were you'd be holding a live wire. There's a delrin insulator between that copper and the copper on the inside of the tube that completes the circuit. The differences are purely aesthetic.
 

Rommel

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I'm with @fq06 They are just metal tubes with a button. I like the magnetic button and the 3 piece setup. I also like that it costs $20 with a very low voltage drop. I like the 510 pin in that you can adjust it without a screwdriver. All I want in a mech is a good magnetic button, venting, an easy 510 connection, and low voltage drop. This has those at a low price. Although I wish the venting was a little better.

Edit: And I love the packaging.
I have two, one bone stock and the other one for cloud chasing and i drilled four 3mm holes on the tube for extra venting, because i do believe that the thing will explode in a violent manner without them. The top cap and fire button have such sturdy threads that they are not gonna give up under pressure IMO. And the stock vent holes are quite tiny.
 
Never really liked the FU's I used one and it definitely does not hit harder then my authentic manhattan. I've built as low as .06 with no problem or hot button, but only for cloud comps. usually my daily vape is around a .1 or .12
 
Gentlemen, which batteries do you use and what is the main material of your coils? I started sub-ohm vaping a few months and just get my Fuhattan. usually I'm used to build 0.14ohms clapton SS316L and I've been using sony VTC4 and AWT red 3000mah. Thx!
 

Zamazam

Evil Vulcan's do it with Logic
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VTC4 and SS316L coils at about the same resistance you use. The AWT is not really a good choice to go that low and high amps.
 

SirRichardRear

AKA Anthony Vapes on Youtube
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Gentlemen, which batteries do you use and what is the main material of your coils? I started sub-ohm vaping a few months and just get my Fuhattan. usually I'm used to build 0.14ohms clapton SS316L and I've been using sony VTC4 and AWT red 3000mah. Thx!
You should familiarize yourself with ohms law if you plan on building on a mech. .14 is too low for any battery but an HB6.
with the VTC4 you can build around a .19 or higher. and don't bother using the AWT rewrap. I wouldn't use a rewrap in a mech mod personally.
 
I don't want to disrespect anybody, of course you have more experience the me. My experiences are based on my own tests and results, I've read Mooch's test about this awt red and I know that's not the best choice for low resistances, but at my empirical tests I've had lower temperatures at awt comparing to sony vtc4. I've already used it at 0.12 ohms build with ss316l. My only doubt is about the increase of resistance in function of heat. SS have this particularity, but Kanthal A1 has a too low ramp up for me. Building about 0.10 ohms, after heating process would be something like 0.12-0.14 ohms when hot. I do know the risks, I'm a carefully person and I've read about 6 months before getting my first vape experience. In fact, does anybody have already vape under 0.10 ohms into a mech mod? I saw some videos of one guy that use a dual coil build 6,5 wraps 20 gauge. At my calcs 0.07 ohms. But he only pulsed his vape, never take a inhale longer then 1-1.5 seconds.
 

SirRichardRear

AKA Anthony Vapes on Youtube
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I don't want to disrespect anybody, of course you have more experience the me. My experiences are based on my own tests and results, I've read Mooch's test about this awt red and I know that's not the best choice for low resistances, but at my empirical tests I've had lower temperatures at awt comparing to sony vtc4. I've already used it at 0.12 ohms build with ss316l. My only doubt is about the increase of resistance in function of heat. SS have this particularity, but Kanthal A1 has a too low ramp up for me. Building about 0.10 ohms, after heating process would be something like 0.12-0.14 ohms when hot. I do know the risks, I'm a carefully person and I've read about 6 months before getting my first vape experience. In fact, does anybody have already vape under 0.10 ohms into a mech mod? I saw some videos of one guy that use a dual coil build 6,5 wraps 20 gauge. At my calcs 0.07 ohms. But he only pulsed his vape, never take a inhale longer then 1-1.5 seconds.
Pulsing is always a bad idea. unless you are in competitions there is no need. and the people that do that, know what they are doing and take precautions. they also burn out batteries and replace them very often. You won't see anyone here building that low on a single battery mech.
Yes SS wire resistance gets higher which is probably why you haven't vented a battery yet since the resistance goes up as you hit it. I've built that low on parallel mods with Hb6 batteries and I still don't see the point (.1 ohms not .07) resistance isn't everything. the videos of what you see are what cause people to get hurt. there was the guy that built a .07 ohm build on a mech 2 months back. this is what happened
http://kfor.com/2017/01/19/vape-explosion-blows-out-mans-teeth-precautions-all-vapers-should-take/
 
I true respect your opinion and I'll take it as good advisy for my vaping life. This is why I've entered at this forum to discuss with people who have already tried different types of builds and mods. I'm from Brazil, here we have a major problem of unacknowledged people who tries to be a cloud chaser with stock mods just adjusting theirs resistances at the wrong way. I have tried several builds and I know that resistance is not everything, but until June/17, when I'll be at LA, my mech mods are limited to what I can import. Here at my country we have several laws about importing vaping things, so I can 't get the mods there I want. But I'm very thankful for the good discussion that we had here. This is what make vaping so good, everybody wants to help each other. Does anybody could indicate some mech mod with 30mm of diameter?
 

SirRichardRear

AKA Anthony Vapes on Youtube
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I true respect your opinion and I'll take it as good advisy for my vaping life. This is why I've entered at this forum to discuss with people who have already tried different types of builds and mods. I'm from Brazil, here we have a major problem of unacknowledged people who tries to be a cloud chaser with stock mods just adjusting theirs resistances at the wrong way. I have tried several builds and I know that resistance is not everything, but until June/17, when I'll be at LA, my mech mods are limited to what I can import. Here at my country we have several laws about importing vaping things, so I can 't get the mods there I want. But I'm very thankful for the good discussion that we had here. This is what make vaping so good, everybody wants to help each other. Does anybody could indicate some mech mod with 30mm of diameter?
well good luck sir and stay safe.
maybe try a thread over in this sub forum http://vapingunderground.com/forums/cloud-chasers-corner.368/
I'm huge on safety and won't personally tell people to build in "unsafe" terms but over there maybe you'll get lucky ;)
 
Sir, everybody here that I know in Brazil tell me "Wow great clouds, whats your build?" and I tell them the same. Here in Brazil I usually say "Always remember, it's your face in the other side of the atty, not mine, don't get my opinion or my experiences, build your own with safety". I'll check this other part of the forum. Best regards!
 

Gregjl

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My two cents, I don't like that the button is not flush but other than that I love it. I took the whole thing apart and soaked it in ammonia for hours and it came out CLEAN. Swapped the magnet for a flawless spring and put in a .24- .25 ish build on a 25 r. And it's very, satisfying. And, is it a clone or not lol.
 

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