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Geekvape Mech Pro Kit Review by KingPin!

Discussion in 'Mods & PVs' started by KingPin!, Jun 27, 2017.

  1. KingPin!

    KingPin! In my defence, I was left unsupervised ^^ VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years VU Challenge Team Reviewer

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    Hi Folks

    Purchased this kit a while back now wanted to drop my thoughts on it. I'm going to break this review into 3 parts the Mech (2 parts) and the Medusa RDTA

    First though what you get in the box ..I went for the red (I do like a red and black mod!) It comes with the medusa sitting pretty on top

    IMG_1229.JPG
    In the spares bag you get extras for the medusa and some spare magnets for the mech doors. You also get a user manual going over how the mech works (press fire button...see vapour...breath in well you get the picture)
    IMG_1231.JPG

    Now this mech is a parralel set up that means you get the voltage from a single battery but roughly 1.5 times the CDR and double the capacity happy days for a first entry into the mech world, I think parralel is the way to go to begin with especially if you are into the whole build super low brah!

    Now this only applies if you run it in dual battery mode it will run using a single as well not quite sure why you'd want to do that though?

    IMG_1230.JPG

    Obviously as with all mechs have a general understanding of ohms law and selecting a build that is safe to vape on: I do not recommend a mech for a complete newbie vaper

    Part 1 The Medusa

    IMG_1237.JPG

    Features:

    • Capacity: 3ml
    • Diameter : 25mm
    • Drip tip height : 10mm
    • Height : 38mm
    • Drip refill system
    • Stainless steel construction
    • Removable wide bore drip tip
    • Adjustable side airflow delivers the perfect flavor
    • Short shaft section to increase flavor
    • Gold-plated positive pin
    • 510 threading connection
    Breaks down into four parts
    IMG_1232.JPG

    Initial thoughts

    Meh!

    Thoughts after initial thoughts

    Ok finish is nasty

    Really do not like that drip tip design

    IMG_1236.JPG

    top cap is barely held in place by the single oring running right at the top, damn thing is so lose I can take it off by flicking the drip tip

    The outer airflow ring is lose as well!!, how's the juice going to stay in there?

    IMG_1234.JPG

    Not impressed so far

    So at this point I'm thinking maybe there's something wrong with mine, is it a dud so many people loved this atty let's see if I can do anything about it.
    So I take the base off and inspect the positive pin and it's lose ...so I tighten it .......quite a bit...go to place the outer airflow ring back on and have that oh ffs moment I've just pulled the deck down by tightening the screw! Now the thing won't lock!
    Erm I'm scratching my head here the posts are not removable the deck isn't actually suppose to move I've just knackered my medusa before I even got to vape it! LoL
    <Ok get a screwdriver KingPin> now I tentatively but firmly pry the base up by just a few mm and it now locks again woohoo my medusa is back in commission and it's now tight when I lock it as it should be!

    So lesson 1 learned do not tighten the positive pin on this while the atty is broken down in bits, do it when assembled!

    I haven't got into the atty yet and it's already a bloody story

    What's she like to build on?

    Standard velocity nothing to see here folks you've seen it all before, just have your coils at the hieght where air hits the bottom of them (which is roughly the height I have them in this pic below.
    Also when you wick this you need to keep the wicking inside the each of the Vs, otherwise when you go to lock the top section it will catch the cotton and create a gap

    Geekvape does have nice screws these are no different!

    IMG_1233.JPG

    Also don't have the coils too far out to the edge or you will struggle to get the top on. It has a ridge running round narrowing toward the centre to seal the deck over the juice reservoir.
    As you can see here I didn't take my own advice which is lesson number 2

    IMG_1235.JPG
    Apologies for the wonky coils I was trying out some 0.3 x 0.1 ribbon and it twisted up on me as I was coiling them (these are staples using 42g wrap) despite thier appearance they vape really well!

    Ok so far everything has been a bit lackluster how's she vape?

    Actually really well ...now remember the Medusa was released before the peerless and I actually like how the peerless vapes, it's got great flavour and draw (just hated it's deck) the Medusas deck is good but I'm not fused on much else...but I do like how it vapes. It's not as smooth as the peerless though but very good flavour coming through especially for the tobacco and cake recipes

    Now I should be clear here no way was I gonna attempt to use that stupid little drip tip so I plonked in my own 510 drip tip in the middle. Whilst it doesn't look great it works a treat and its a lot more comfy

    Finally refilling I should mention this as it's probably my biggest bug bear! it's a chore and it's messy and your gonna be refilling often!
    They say you can drip on here actually they are right I ended up dripping because unlocking, refilling down the narrow sides, relocking and wiping up the juice that's just spilt over the edge into the nooks and crannies is a ball ache to say the least!

    Not being able to see my juice level didn't bother me I'm used to the pharoah dripper you sort of know when you start to run dry (no not a dry hit) just get used to knowing when it's time tonrefill after a certain amount of puffs ...that and I was dripping a lot of the time :)


    Final thoughts

    Yeah awesome best thing ever ...did you do the TL DR on me? <sigh>

    Not impressed with the medusa. The flavour is great don't get me wrong but there are far to many things that I deem as design flaws to make it great.
    Overall maybe wait for the Medusa reborn as it looks like they have picked up on a lot of the things I've complained about in my review ...fingers crossed ;)

    Pros
    It came with the kit fairly inexpensive extra
    Great flavour
    Won't leak from the base it's sealed!
    Looks decent
    Geekvape Screws are quality

    Cons
    Hated drip tip
    Feels cheap
    Horrible refilling design
    Orings were naff
    Mine was lose to start with
    The deck moved down when I tightened the positive screw?
    Small capacity reservoir


    Onto part 2.....the mech
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2017
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  2. KingPin!

    KingPin! In my defence, I was left unsupervised ^^ VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years VU Challenge Team Reviewer

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    Part 2 The Mech Pro

    Initial thoughts

    This looks absolutely sweet loving the paint finish

    It's heavy you probably won't want to use this as an every day mod with two batteries in weighs in at 378g (without an atty on top)

    Parameters
    Size: 53 x 96 x 25.5mm
    Resistance: 0.1 -3ohm (recommended)
    Shell processing: spraying
    Material: Zinc alloy
    Visible mech "cicuit" system
    Interchangeable cover plates
    works with single or dual 18650 batteries
    reverse battery protection
    fire button lock system
    Copper fire button
    Brass gold plated internals

    Build quality

    The whole thing is sprayed including inside

    Both doors are held on by super strong magnets and the doors don't have any rattle. Really comfortable to hold
    IMG_1238.JPG
    The internals have a protective clear casing over them which can be removed (I'll get into that later)

    In the pic below you can see the fire button lock which is really handy if on a journey and you don't want this to fire.

    There is a handy ribbon the get your batteries out (they sit in a battery sled)

    Unfortunately the paint on mine has started to chip in places which is annoying!
    IMG_1239.JPG

    The 510 plate is quality and can be removed if necessary it's spring loaded which means your atty will sit flush

    IMG_1242.JPG

    If you wanted to run this in single battery mode insert battery where I have battery A below

    Now again looking at the below see that magnet on the left just below the button lock. It's very likely this will come away at some point! The glue they used to stick the magnets in is not sufficient to stick one onto the clear pastic ...if yours comes off like mine did here's how I sorted mine out

    1) Scratch off the old glue with a screwdriver from the magnet and case
    2) Rough up the back of the magnet (make sure it's the correct side of it)
    3) Put some superglue on and stick down (doesn't need loads so it squelches out the sides)
    4) let it sit for a few hours before you put the cover back on (I used loctite general purpose superglue) did the job hasn't come off since
    IMG_1240.JPG

    There is reverse polarity protection on the battery sled. You can see it in the below picture see how the plastic cups comes down further. The battery will not engage if you put the negative end that way round which is decent for the first time mech user....having said that the sled is clearly marked as to which way round to put your batteries but you always have to be a little switched on when using a mech!

    IMG_1241.JPG

    Finally my fire button hasn't been great from the start it's like its catching on when pressing down I think this maybe something to do with the spring. The button needs to be pressed centrally, or to the lower right side to engage it pressing anywhere else does noting


    Performance

    Hits really well! Ramp up is decent getting a really good vape from using this mech... coils I've been running are about 0.15 ohm. I have used a range of different attys on here and like all how they all perform on here (which shows the 510 is decent)

    Fire button has a lot of travel and is actually quite tough to push down, certainly needs breaking in to start with

    I've also noticed is my fire button getting hot! This is normally a sign of bad contact with the fire button and the plate? I think this is another design flaw (I'll come onto that in part 3)
    My batteries have remained cool despite the hot fire button and I can't see any arcing either

    Despite these cons I've been really liking this mod it's looks great with a number of different attys on it

    IMG_1133.JPG
    IMG_1134.JPG
    IMG_1136.JPG
    IMG_1200.JPG
    IMG_1227.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2017
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  3. KingPin!

    KingPin! In my defence, I was left unsupervised ^^ VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years VU Challenge Team Reviewer

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    Part 3 the strip down and clean! (Also while I'm here let's investigate this fire button)

    Ok this is a major con on this mech in that
    It's a complete pain to clean and unfortunately when using a mech depending on whether it's a daily driver or not you will need to clean the contacts as with any mech or you will see a dip in performance

    I used (be careful handling isopropyl wear gloves, don't breath it in, highly flammable!)

    Some latex gloves
    Lindt free microfibres cloth
    Isopropyl alcohol 99.9%
    Metal polish
    A T6 torx screwdriver bit
    A tiny screwdriver (no idea it's size in the thumbnail below the one in the right is a 1.4mm so guessing about a 1mm? Ideally you need a really small Allen key but this was all I had)
    A dish for the screws

    IMG_1257.JPG IMG_1258.JPG IMG_1261.JPG

    Step one 1 undo the screws holding the clear plastic in place (x5) all T6 torx screw (place screws in a dish for later). You can use something inside the lock hole to pry it up shouldn't be to hard (careful not to break it)

    IMG_1250.JPG


    Step 2 undo the torx screw (T6) in the middle of this pic below (put all screws somewhere safe in a bowl of something so you don't lose them

    IMG_1251.JPG

    This releases the arm at the top in the pic below

    Step 3) Next there is a tiny hex screw holding the other side into the copper fire button (I used that tiny screwdriver to undo mine but you may have an Allen key that fits it
    IMG_1255.JPG

    4) With the screws undone above you can twist and now remove the spring here IMG_1254.JPG

    5) Now you are free to spin the fire button around to get under there with the cloth and isopropyl to clean the contacts all around.
    Also go around the mech clean the contacts in the battery sled, inside the 510 plate for the threads. I also wiped that spring part I removed earlier (wearing gloves)


    Now while it was all off I noticed the fire button was round with a great big gap in the middle where it's holding the spring. It being rounded isn't such and issue as long as there is even contact at the centre point and in all honesty I don't think there is which is causing my hot button issues!

    IMG_1252.JPG

    Look how it is when I press the fire button down? my button is at an angle!? I believe this is why I'm getting really bad feedback from the fire button.
    The problem is there is a clip holding the button in which I cannot remove so getting in there to sand it down is gonna be a problem! Would love to know if anyone has found a way to get this button off as I reckon this will fix the hot button issue
    IMG_1253.JPG

    In the meantime once you've cleaned the contacts re-assemble and clean the fire button up

    IMG_1259.JPG

    And your done. Now you could probably completely dissemble and soak all the parts, but for a weekly or so quick clean this will do the job

    So my final thoughts on this kit

    I really like this mech despite some flaws but for the price it's a good opener to the mech side of vaping. It's got some safety features built in and your gonna be able to learn maintaining a mech. It's also a parralel set up which i think is safer for the newcomers starting out and attempting to build lower (which is all the rage it seems these days lol)

    It also look the nuts in red!

    I was not a fan of the medusa have to say so maybe save yourself a few quid a pic up the mech on its own

    Pros
    Solid
    Safety features incoperated
    Hits really well
    Excellent price point
    Looks great

    Cons
    Heavy
    Difficult to break down and clean
    Hot fire button
    Lose magnet
    Paint chipped in places
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2017
  4. KingPin!

    KingPin! In my defence, I was left unsupervised ^^ VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years VU Challenge Team Reviewer

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    If there is anyone out there who has been able to fix the hot button issue I would love to know the steps involved to fix it :)
     
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  5. mjag

    mjag Gold Contributor Member For 4 Years

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    I am not into mechs as much anymore but that red though
    .....sexy AF!

    Great review mate and love how you went into the mech cleaning, that is going the extra mile (or Kilometer. ...haha) and then some.

    Now I am going to pick up that red and steal your style....thanks enabler...lol

    Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
     
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  6. Paratech

    Paratech I forgot VU Donator Gold Contributor Member For 4 Years Member For 3 Years Member For 2 Years

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    Great review KingPin! love all the vividly clear pics.
     
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  7. KingPin!

    KingPin! In my defence, I was left unsupervised ^^ VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years VU Challenge Team Reviewer

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    Thanks MJag always welcome your thought buddy :)

    Hope you don't get the hot fire button issue and if you do between us we'll figure it out!
     
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  8. KingPin!

    KingPin! In my defence, I was left unsupervised ^^ VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years VU Challenge Team Reviewer

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    Thanks para much appreciated :)
     
  9. mjag

    mjag Gold Contributor Member For 4 Years

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    Yeah, it has me intrigued at what it could be, I also have a set of kevlar gloves so no worries....lol

    Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
     
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  10. SirRichardRear

    SirRichardRear AKA Anthony Vapes on Youtube VU Donator Diamond Contributor Member For 3 Years Reviewer

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    Nice review king! I run mine with .12-.13 ohm builds and my button never gets warm let along hot. Not sure why yours is having that issue
     
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  11. GBusafvet95

    GBusafvet95 VU Donator Bronze Contributor Member For 2 Years Member For 1 Year

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    Nice review. Been thinking of one.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  12. KingPin!

    KingPin! In my defence, I was left unsupervised ^^ VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years VU Challenge Team Reviewer

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    Thanks matey much appreciated :)
     
  13. KingPin!

    KingPin! In my defence, I was left unsupervised ^^ VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years VU Challenge Team Reviewer

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    Thanks SRR :)

    No idea mate a few of the other forum members have experienced similar issues perhaps not all fire buttons were made equal? that or there is a problem with the spring ...just wish I could work out how to remove that clip to inspect it all without breaking anything
     
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  14. pcking

    pcking

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    Great review. Spot on in regards to the cleaning method. I recently began to experience the HOT Button issue after two months of use with no issues. I performed the much enjoyed cleaning as directed above. Still had the hot button. Then I pushed a Isopropyl soaked paper towel with a small flathead screwdriver around the outside of the button where it meets the housing. Tons of gunk came out. IMG_1252.JPG This fixed the HOT button issue for me. May or may not work for others
     
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  15. KingPin!

    KingPin! In my defence, I was left unsupervised ^^ VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years VU Challenge Team Reviewer

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    Thanks for the kind words pcking :)

    And thanks for that tip I'll try that out myself next time! Have you figured out how to remove the clip holding the button inside the casing? Only I'd appreciate guidance on how to remove it without damaging anything so I can really strip this down and inspect the spring inside ...tried pliers but that bugger isn't shifting if there is a way I'll happily try it and post my results back in here
     
  16. pcking

    pcking

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    No, I wish I could figure it out. I'd love to be able to polish that entire button with some Mothers Mag Wheel polisher...lol.
     
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  17. KingPin!

    KingPin! In my defence, I was left unsupervised ^^ VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years VU Challenge Team Reviewer

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    I saw somewhere someone managed to get it off but they never stated how it was done! I'll give it another crack when I get some time :)
     
  18. CactusFanaticus

    CactusFanaticus Silver Contributor Member For 2 Years

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    My favorite all time cleaner, you'll never see copper so bright. Brings off so much oxidation turns a rag blaaaack.

    My mech pro had been riding the bench until the other day got it out and threw a .13 build in a goon. Been my daily carry at work for the past week. Picked up a belt loop holster case for it, takes away the heaviness problem and even forget it's there at times.

    No hot button here either, but my magnet finally came off the day before, about to walk out to the work shop ruff it up clean and glue it. This mod's a beast, can't beat it for a 40 some$ authentic mech.
     
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  19. jstyezy

    jstyezy Member For 2 Years Member For 1 Year

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    I found a quick fix which is actually a design flaw. Where the contact plate is a bit away from the button which makes a small vacuum between the plate and button.

    I tucked in a small tip of the tooth pick just enough to lift the plate and issue has be solved.

    As usual Geek Vape, they create amazing product with small design flaw.

    No more heating button, delayed hit on tank or spark flying

    I've posted a video on YouTube

    [​IMG]

    Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
     
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  20. CactusFanaticus

    CactusFanaticus Silver Contributor Member For 2 Years

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    Kind of sad about mine, love the mod and was my daily work carry for months, .13 build no issues whatsoever. I dropped it on the garage floor one too many times and now it seems to dent my battery caps, possibly frame is bent. This mod is tough, it has fallen 5+ feet to concrete many times. I will probably just pick up another while I can check why it is putting so much pressure on my batteries now.
     
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  21. jstyezy

    jstyezy Member For 2 Years Member For 1 Year

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    Yeah especially if it is such a sturdy mod.

    Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
     
  22. KingPin!

    KingPin! In my defence, I was left unsupervised ^^ VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years VU Challenge Team Reviewer

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    Gonna give this a go tomorrow! many thanks :)
     
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  23. KingPin!

    KingPin! In my defence, I was left unsupervised ^^ VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years VU Challenge Team Reviewer

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    Reporting back pleased to say I’ve fixed my hot fire button But it wasn’t via that toothpick fix ...it was arcing like a gooden and still hot

    3473AF19-ECCA-46CB-848B-E856CDED31F7.jpeg

    Nope I manage to get that band off the fire button to do the job right

    The reason it’s happening is as I suspected there’s a really small contact point hitting the plate, not only that the spring wasn’t straight! Can see where the arcing was happening below

    It really was not easy getting that clip off and I did scratch the inside doing it ...but not fussed in that just wanted to sort this issue out
    2EFE8CA8-C201-499D-8BC3-97B9C4D9A329.jpeg

    See the curve on this button ...I’m going to flatten it out (apologies for how manky it is, it’s been sitting for a while)
    9A32B80E-1DC0-4741-9E3B-FB2813AFC433.jpeg

    I have some Japanese whetstones (Naniwa) I use for my knives so started with a 220 grit
    2C30F4AD-8146-48EB-BEA3-9D900BB1D909.jpeg
    89B1F8AA-0E52-45D2-BFE9-B07DE99DA9D9.jpeg

    Moved up to 1000 grit

    57E00B1F-203A-4858-AA42-B4DB523E45EA.jpeg

    Moved up to 5000 grit

    B9571C76-F7EE-4FF2-B6D3-B6E9B0D6A096.jpeg

    Finished off with 10,000 grit ...in fairness I could have kept going on this to give it a really good mirror finish but used some polish and a cloth to finish it off

    F458B3BC-967F-49F8-94F2-9F2967883F20.jpeg

    CB746EB4-E592-467D-A439-36DCD69845A7.jpeg

    Also sorted the spring so it sits flat again
    DA6FDB0B-67F3-4E67-A939-3FDC81F12E7F.jpeg

    Reassembled (without the toothpick in place)

    And hits like a champ.... no arching, no wobbly fire button or having to press it in a certain place and most importantly no hot fire button!
     
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  24. Vapeape999

    Vapeape999

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    Thanks for the review and tips in the thread below Kingpin, all have been useful.
    I'm picking one up on Tuesday and look forward to if I have any issues with the firing button, to fixing it with the info provided.
     
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  25. KingPin!

    KingPin! In my defence, I was left unsupervised ^^ VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years VU Challenge Team Reviewer

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    Thank you very much and good luck with it mate :cheers: it’s a nice first parralel mech for sure bit a pain to clean but hits well
     
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  26. Vapeape999

    Vapeape999

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    It'll be my first mech, so obviously I'm apprehensive about builds, batteries etc but I've done some researching into ohms law and have an ohms calculator and have learned a fair bit of stuff like only building on regulated mods first etc.
    I've also got a lot of more experienced mech vape users who will walk me through getting to know my first mech vape or else I wouldnt be touching one. They scare the crap out of me. Probably A good thing that. It the wrong hands, the consequences could be devastating.
    I'm picking it up on Tuesday. Looking forward to sitting down with the seller and learning some further stuff before organising some appropriate coils for it. ✌
     
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  27. KingPin!

    KingPin! In my defence, I was left unsupervised ^^ VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years VU Challenge Team Reviewer

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    Sounds like you’ve taken all the right steps there :) If you need any help with anything afterwards give me a shout I’ll be happy to go over it all
     
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  28. Vapeape999

    Vapeape999

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    Done, thanks Kingpin.
    Something that I love about the Aus vape community is that it's a really helpful mob
     
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  29. theonewithguts

    theonewithguts

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    hi just asking is it safe to use it while on this hot issue firing button i have the version 2 which is the derlin firing button but still the arcing is still there and the firing button issue is still there so im asking is it safe to use and does it affect on the battery :(
     
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  30. KingPin!

    KingPin! In my defence, I was left unsupervised ^^ VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years VU Challenge Team Reviewer

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    Obviously anywhere near gas its not safe ;)

    Does the delrin button differ underneath are you able to attach a picture? (Take a pic, crop it down a bit) so I can see what you are referring to and we’ll go from there matey
     
    zephyr likes this.
  31. theonewithguts

    theonewithguts

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    [​IMG]this is the model that i have but the internals are all the same it lessen the heat when you touch the firing button but still it heats up.. Geekvape suggested me just to clean the firing button by metal polish and the problem is still there.. such a beauty mod but very sad on the issue :(
     
  32. KingPin!

    KingPin! In my defence, I was left unsupervised ^^ VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years VU Challenge Team Reviewer

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    Ok I’m assuming the button inside is still rounded here?

    I find it interesting Geekvape decided to go with a Delrin button, to me that isn’t a fix it’s a shoddy attempt to mask the problem a lot of people have with the mech pro...button feedback is very important on a mech, you have no protections so in my opinion the earlier you allow a user to feel heat the better it is so they can do something about it

    The name "Mechanical" mod originates from the fact they operate by friction and metal to metal contact I.e no wires

    No mech mod is immune to hot buttons. On the Mech Pro the button isn’t making direct contact with the battery ...the circuit is completed by pressing the copper button onto the gold plated brass plate (it’s an independent connector) as such arcing here is a lot safer than say a hybrid mech (an atty that touches the battery directly) where arcing on the thin metal positive terminal is a lot more risky over the long term.

    A mechanical mod should under no circumstances ever become to hot to hold or fire. If you feel this stop using it immediately and give it a good going over.

    Arcing or "Current jumping" does not indicate a "faulty" connection. When you deal with mechs you are essentially working with a circuit breaker design, by this I mean when the circuit is switched off (button released), the current cannot instantaneously jump to zero: a transient arc will be formed across the separating contacts. The are some switch designs out there than minimise this happening ...however the mech pro isn’t one of them

    Why does this matter?

    Arcing creates high temperatures which leads to both residue being deposited and uneven surfaces created (pitting) on each contact. Over time this has two knock on impacts ....
    1. The performance decreases, you now have added resistance in the circuit which affects the coil heating efficiently.
    2. When the button grounds (pushing it) it heats up
    Not only this but metals oxidise over time (patina effect) copper, whilst being an excellent conductor it does tarnish quickly, so polishing it and keeping it clean, as with any mech is absolutely required. It’s also important to do the same thing on the spring as well....brass also patinas quickly but being its gold plated on the mech pro it won’t crust up so quickly. Leaving things to build up all leads into the effects I described above.

    You can minimise all this happening by keeping it clean...like anything in life, look after your stuff and it’ll look after you.

    A very mild abrasive, an erasure, cleaning solution, polishing cloth etc etc theres a whole host of info out there regarding cleaning contacts and mechs in general.....and lastly what I described in my button fix for the mech pro (sanding through to very fine grits) ...whilst you can keep on top of cleaning for the most part with small routine maintenance, sometimes a full disassembly is required, which unfortunately on the mech pro is a giant pain in the ass and I’m my opinion a design flaw.

    The other area to note is how the button is contacting between the two contact points ...in my early model the button was rounded and depending on where I press it the connection was completely crap and only touching a very small surface area.

    I combated this by sanding it flat to create a large surface area, so no matter where I push the button it provides even contact (I no longer have to push it down really hard). In addition I also gave is a very smooth surface which alleviates the issues I described above. Over time as with any mechs all these cleaning requirements creep again hence the maintenance aspect of mech being of upmost importance.

    In addition to the above the lower in ohms you vape, the more maintenance you will have to do, because with lower resistance the more current that’s flowing and with it a greater ARC and damage potential ....bringing me to my final point make sure there are no shorts in the atomiser unlike a regulated mod it’s the resistor in this circuit and its what’s keeping you away from shorting out and things going badly for you ...check your coil build independently on a resistance reader...I even fire the coil on a regulated mod first to check everything’s working fine before I plonk it on the mech.

    Hope this helps :)
     
    CactusFanaticus likes this.
  33. theonewithguts

    theonewithguts

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    DUDE !! thanks KINGPIN !!! i just did what you do in your mech pro and my MOD is all good now :) DOUBLE THUMBS UP :) thank you very much..
     
    KingPin! likes this.
  34. KingPin!

    KingPin! In my defence, I was left unsupervised ^^ VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 3 Years VU Challenge Team Reviewer

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    No problem matey happy to help...Happy vaping :cheers:
     

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