guess I'm behind the times when it comes to wire and all this new fangled stuff.

[mchaggis79]

Hello all. I've been using either 2 28 gauge twisted together or just 26 gauge kanthal and as I'm getting a new mod with the DNA75 with temp control I was wondering if I should get different wire? I had a vaporshark rdna40 and assumed I was using temp control, but I guess it doesn't work with kanthal a1? If TC doesn't work with Kanthal and basically making my vaporshark just be in power mode why does it seem like my ipv mini 2 is burning so much hotter than my vaporshark ever did? I used 32.5 watts on my vaporshark all the time with the 28 gauge twisted coils and that was my happy spot, but if i try the same wattage with the same build with my ipv it leaves me pulling away cause i feel like my mouth just caught on fire. I had set the TC on my vaporshark to 450 so was TC actually working or was I really just in power mode the whole time and that DNA chip just happens to level things out or something?

 

[robot zombie]

The TC was on with the vaporshark. But it wasn't working like it was supposed to. The classic TC devices only accept nickel and titanium (usually) because their resistance fluctuates greatly depending on temperature. Simplifies the chip's job. When you drop in the fresh coil and have the mod read it while it's cool, it assumes that's the resistance at room temperature. From there, it can sense the temperature of the coil by reading the resistance and throttle power accordingly.

Since you were using kanthal, the device would have been thinking the coil wasn't getting much past room temperature and thus feeding it constant power. I dunno, though. Those early TC-chips don't have programming to handle that sort of reaction. The resistance is supposed to rise in a very linear way. It's very possible that the DNA40 was always giving you a PWM 32.5w instead of the constant 32.5w that your IPV puts out in power mode.

Not sure if the DNA75 can do TC with kanthal. Maybe there's an update that's come out. But I last remember it being nickel, titanium, or SS for TC.

 

[BigNasty]

G2 or fsk chip does Kanthal.

 

[gopher_byrd]

As @BigNasty said the Hohm Wrecker G2 will do TC with kanthal and any other wire. Not sure if any others can. I have two of them, one with SS and one with kanthal, both work as advertised. Here's a link to get it for $73 on ecig.com: http://www.ecig.com/hohm-wrecker-g2.html This is my favorite regulated mod! You will need to upgrade the firmware to get TC on kanthal: http://hohmtech.com/. Enjoy!

edit: I'm using fused Clapton's, 2x26k/38N80 in TC mode for kanthal on a Griffin 25 RTA with the Hohm Wrecker G2.

 

[mchaggis79]

I'm looking to get new wire, not a new device. I just bought a new device and I'm wondering if I should even bother replacing my kanthal with anything as I've been happy with it for years. I've tried nickel and I can't stand it, but with everything being able to use TC and DNA can't do TC with kanthal what are some options for me?

I've always done 6 wraps 2mm ID with twisted 28 gauge. Will most likely twist whatever I replace the kanthal with.

 

[BigNasty]

it's cool was giving you another option.
I have a sensitivity to nickle and just not that sold on ss or ti.

 

[mchaggis79]

it's cool was giving you another option.
I have a sensitivity to nickle and just not that sold on ss or ti.

Maybe I do too. I tried a few builds with it and it just makes everything taste like dog shit to me. Maybe I could try titanium?

 

[mchaggis79]

I'm reading stuff on wires now. Some stuff about titanium dioxide, but that only happens when you heat it past turning blue. I haven't read anything about whether dna75 uses temp control with kanthal or not. Idk, but I do know when setting my kanthal wires I regularly get them red hot and scrape them with ceramic tweezers until I see them burning evenly, but you shouldn't do that with titanium. If you can't get them that hot how do you know they're burning evenly?

 

[Rabbit Slayer]

as of today, no DNA chip supports kanthal TC

SS is as close as you can get to kanthal and it works well in both TC and power mode

 

[HondaDavidson]

Yes, get some Stainless and Ti wire for TC. Even if the new mod does TC with Kanthal... both kanthal and nichrome will perform better in VW/VV or with No regulation. Stainless is considered OK to dry burn.

Don't get Nickle or Ti red hot. With Ti and Ni it's bad for health.. They are used for TC ONLY.

 

[Rabbit Slayer]

Oh yeah, if you're just using round wire, spaced coils don't need to be "fixed" to burn evenly

 

[mchaggis79]

as of today, no DNA chip supports kanthal TC

SS is as close as you can get to kanthal and it works well in both TC and power mode

Yes, get some Stainless and Ti wire for TC. Even if the new mod does TC with Kanthal... both kanthal and nichrome will perform better in VW/VV or with No regulation. Stainless is considered OK to dry burn.

Don't get Nickle or Ti red hot. With Ti and Ni it's bad for health.. They are used for TC ONLY.

Oh yeah, if you're just using round wire, spaced coils don't need to be "fixed" to burn evenly

Oh yeah, if you're just using round wire, spaced coils don't need to be "fixed" to burn evenly

I'm thinking of getting some SS. I'm assuming 316 is the grade to use for TC, but how does SS compare to Kanthal in terms of resistance? Could I still do my 6 wraps 2mm ID dual twisted coils and be ok or should I add more coils or something? I don't know how the resistance of SS compares to kanthal. My build usually comes out to around .4 ohms so can't imagine i'd want to go much lower than that just for safety purposes, but then again I don't know.

 

[HondaDavidson]

Stainless has less resistance.

Why all the build description without any real info. Number of wrap is meaningless without also providing either an ohm or gauge reference.

Model some build in Steam-Engine. To get an idea of which gauge you want.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

[mchaggis79]

Stainless has less resistance.

Why all the build description without any real info. Number of wrap is meaningless without also providing either an ohm or gauge reference.

Model some build in Steam-Engine. To get an idea of which gauge you want.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

I said in an earlier post it was 28 gauge and I said it always comes out around .4 ohms.

 

[BigNasty]

I don't trust TI even surgical grade. Could be getting older and remembering some of the stuff the old guys told me about TI smelting and processing.
I can venture to SS but looking at low/absent chromium content.

 

[mchaggis79]

I don't trust TI even surgical grade. Could be getting older and remembering some of the stuff the old guys told me about TI smelting and processing.
I can venture to SS but looking at low/absent chromium content.

yea I feel iffy about it as well. I think SS 316L either 30 or 32 gauge could give me similar results to what i'm getting now with 28 gauge kanthal.

 

[BigNasty]

I would still stay 28, ss in 28 is like 34-36 ga in lack of structure support.
.3-.4 temp controlled is awesome. you can dial it in to your pref.

 

[mchaggis79]

I would still stay 28, ss in 28 is like 34-36 ga in lack of structure support.
.3-.4 temp controlled is awesome. you can dial it in to your pref.

sold lol. can't wait for my new mod and billow v3 to get in. the mod should be here tomorrow. the billow... god only knows.

 

[BigNasty]

ss is SOFT. get the coil set and wick, no dry burning.

 

[mchaggis79]

ss is SOFT. get the coil set and wick, no dry burning.

yea i've watched a bunch of videos and read up a lot on SS coil building. I think I'm good to go. thanks

 

[mchaggis79]

I would still stay 28, ss in 28 is like 34-36 ga in lack of structure support.
.3-.4 temp controlled is awesome. you can dial it in to your pref.

holy fuck. I just bought a few feet of 34g SS and twisted 3 strands together and it was still so springy i couldn't make a coil that looked at all decent even using my coil master. I got the 34g cause it's all the shop up the street from me had in stock. i just threw it out it was too frustrating to deal with. Think i'm gonna say fuck it and do like you said and stick with 28 gauge.

 

[BigNasty]

Nah keep it, you can make claptons with it

 

[Neunerball]

holy fuck. I just bought a few feet of 34g SS and twisted 3 strands together and it was still so springy i couldn't make a coil that looked at all decent even using my coil master. I got the 34g cause it's all the shop up the street from me had in stock. i just threw it out it was too frustrating to deal with. Think i'm gonna say fuck it and do like you said and stick with 28 gauge.

You can get rid of the springiness by torching the twisted wire before wrapping your coils.

 

[mchaggis79]

You can get rid of the springiness by torching the twisted wire before wrapping your coils.

Oh yea...fuck. I forgot about that trick. Been so long since I've had to use it. I'll try that once I get some 28 or 30 gauge and twist it together. Thanks for reminding me