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Has anyone gotten bad Ni coils?

Pax

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So I just got my new setup. Invader mini, Kanger sub tank plus. 3 Ni coils later, still getting burnt juice. Fresh 25/75 juice, TC, 300 degrees, 20w, pulled out a little cotton, soaked everything, let sit for 30 minutes. Still getting burnt vape taste?? Started with .5 coil, at first did great. Using a Sony 18650 VTC's. Great clouds every time.

Just tested the mod with my Kanger nano, 1.2 coil..... Works fine.

So the question is, has anyone gotten bad batch of coils, mod issue or any other thoughts?

Thx
 
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Pax

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So, I have to add that I tried the RBA and it worked great. Would still like some imput as to whether anyone has had problems with the Kanger Ni coils. I believe that the good from this experience is I will be building my own coils since it is not that difficult and certainly less expensive.
 

madmonkey

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Hey bud, I'd like to say hi and welcome to Vaping Underground :)

I haven't used factory made OCC nickel coils yet but I can tell you with some of my atties my DNA40 mods can read as much as .02 off from what the resistance is supposed to be of my nickel builds and .02 in the nickel world is like .2 in the Kanthal world in difference of resistance and when you're talking in terms of temp control that .02 can make or break a vape turning it from all that to complete crap instantly. Just something to keep in mind as you think about getting into building with nickel....make sure you clean your wire with alcohol as well and do not torch nickel like you would Kanthal...it will change how it behaves and winds and reads the first time...you want the wire as clean and unadulterated as possible the first time you screw it on your mod and fire it.

However I can tell you that the Stock Nickel coils are supposed to be .15 ohms so I am assuming your .5 ohm coils are the standard ones and not nickel correct?

What wattage setting are you using your .5 ohm coils at? The temp setting doesn't matter with Kanthal and Nicrome builds because the mod can sense it's not a nickel or Ti build and will put you into straight power wattage mode. The stock .5 ohm OCC Kanthal coils don't really like to vape above 25 watts, especially with thicker liquids. Kanger has come out with some new .5 ohm Vertical coil heads with even larger juice ports that is supposed to solve this problem but with any stock coil made by anyone throughout vaping history they always seem to exagerate what their coils can fire at. For just a fictional example....lets say Clearo Style A has a 1 ohm coil that says it can fire from 5-20 watts....in reality it can only work in about 7-15 watts and will suck below that power band and burn and taste horrible above it...it's the same with the OCC standard coils.

The .5 ohm doesn't really like to go above 25 watts without playing with the wick to get it to suck up the juice faster and the 1.2 ohm coil I had didn't seem to like to go above 18 watts and my friend's mother I got vaping ....well, he bought her a subtank because he's an idiot so I got her a bunch of 1.2 ohm coils and modified the wicking and she runs them at about 12 watts and she loves them even though it's a bit much vapor otherwise.

In regards to your nickel coils, like I said, a .02 difference can really impact the vape quality...they're supposed to be .15 so if they aren't .14-.16 then they're going to vape differently, or your mod can be reading the resistance wrong like one of mine does and you have to trick it into reading the right resistance and how to do that is a little different with every chipset and I don't have an invader mini so I couldn't tell you for sure if my trick would work right for you.

As for if anyone has gotten a bad batch of coils? I am sure someone will come along and see this and chime in about that...the thing about these coils is they are mass produced in the hundreds of thousands if not higher and a few bad ones will always slip threw since QC on something like this is quite impossible to be perfect without firing every single coil....Kanger's dual coil setup for the aerotanks and protank 3's and genitanks are complete garbage, I got intire 5 packs of replacement heads and I had to rebuild all of them because they were all complete crap...if it weren't for the Subtank being as good as it is I believe that the vape giant would have sunk...they really pulled their asses out of the fire by getting this one right.

One thing you can try and do as well is taking a needle and fluffing out the center of the wick and poking holes all the way threw the center to the coil to kind of help guide the liquid where it needs to go...it helped me...I only run my .5 ohm coils at about 24.5 watts and it seems to be hot enough for me and solved the dry hit problems I was having.

And like I said, someone will see this and come along and chime in and probably have something more helpful to say but I hope this helped at least a little. Best of luck to you, get a couple more OCC coils and try the settings and fiddling with the wicks like I said and see if that helps before you dive into temp coils again....just get a single nickel coil if you can and see what it reads at....and let us know...it will give us a baseline to help you from..

best of luck to you and wishing you better and happier vaping soon :)
 

Pax

Member For 4 Years
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Hey bud, I'd like to say hi and welcome to Vaping Underground :)

I haven't used factory made OCC nickel coils yet but I can tell you with some of my atties my DNA40 mods can read as much as .02 off from what the resistance is supposed to be of my nickel builds and .02 in the nickel world is like .2 in the Kanthal world in difference of resistance and when you're talking in terms of temp control that .02 can make or break a vape turning it from all that to complete crap instantly. Just something to keep in mind as you think about getting into building with nickel....make sure you clean your wire with alcohol as well and do not torch nickel like you would Kanthal...it will change how it behaves and winds and reads the first time...you want the wire as clean and unadulterated as possible the first time you screw it on your mod and fire it.

However I can tell you that the Stock Nickel coils are supposed to be .15 ohms so I am assuming your .5 ohm coils are the standard ones and not nickel correct?

What wattage setting are you using your .5 ohm coils at? The temp setting doesn't matter with Kanthal and Nicrome builds because the mod can sense it's not a nickel or Ti build and will put you into straight power wattage mode. The stock .5 ohm OCC Kanthal coils don't really like to vape above 25 watts, especially with thicker liquids. Kanger has come out with some new .5 ohm Vertical coil heads with even larger juice ports that is supposed to solve this problem but with any stock coil made by anyone throughout vaping history they always seem to exagerate what their coils can fire at. For just a fictional example....lets say Clearo Style A has a 1 ohm coil that says it can fire from 5-20 watts....in reality it can only work in about 7-15 watts and will suck below that power band and burn and taste horrible above it...it's the same with the OCC standard coils.

The .5 ohm doesn't really like to go above 25 watts without playing with the wick to get it to suck up the juice faster and the 1.2 ohm coil I had didn't seem to like to go above 18 watts and my friend's mother I got vaping ....well, he bought her a subtank because he's an idiot so I got her a bunch of 1.2 ohm coils and modified the wicking and she runs them at about 12 watts and she loves them even though it's a bit much vapor otherwise.

In regards to your nickel coils, like I said, a .02 difference can really impact the vape quality...they're supposed to be .15 so if they aren't .14-.16 then they're going to vape differently, or your mod can be reading the resistance wrong like one of mine does and you have to trick it into reading the right resistance and how to do that is a little different with every chipset and I don't have an invader mini so I couldn't tell you for sure if my trick would work right for you.

As for if anyone has gotten a bad batch of coils? I am sure someone will come along and see this and chime in about that...the thing about these coils is they are mass produced in the hundreds of thousands if not higher and a few bad ones will always slip threw since QC on something like this is quite impossible to be perfect without firing every single coil....Kanger's dual coil setup for the aerotanks and protank 3's and genitanks are complete garbage, I got intire 5 packs of replacement heads and I had to rebuild all of them because they were all complete crap...if it weren't for the Subtank being as good as it is I believe that the vape giant would have sunk...they really pulled their asses out of the fire by getting this one right.

One thing you can try and do as well is taking a needle and fluffing out the center of the wick and poking holes all the way threw the center to the coil to kind of help guide the liquid where it needs to go...it helped me...I only run my .5 ohm coils at about 24.5 watts and it seems to be hot enough for me and solved the dry hit problems I was having.

And like I said, someone will see this and come along and chime in and probably have something more helpful to say but I hope this helped at least a little. Best of luck to you, get a couple more OCC coils and try the settings and fiddling with the wicks like I said and see if that helps before you dive into temp coils again....just get a single nickel coil if you can and see what it reads at....and let us know...it will give us a baseline to help you from..

best of luck to you and wishing you better and happier vaping soon :)

Madmonkey,

Thx for your thoughts, they are very helpful. As I had stated I am in the beginning stages of experimentation into the vaping world. The variables for those who not only using this approach to stop smoking but enjoy the more involved aspect of finding the best devices, juice and settings to achieve the most satisfying vape are mind boggling. As well the variable of what does that mean to an individual, has got me hooked. As a result of the introduction to the Invador mini as well as the Kanger subtank plus, it has taken me a few days to sort out a great vape.

To start, I got so frustrated with the prebuilt Ni coils and since I had a good thing going the .5 complete prebuilt coil that was installed when I received the Kanger, I decided to to try the RBA coil. I studied a couple of video's on rebuilding them and came up with an approach that has worked great over the last 2 days. At this point the coil reading is .6 which is fine. The guidelines state that the pre built Kanthal coil should be .5. So is it the coil or the device?? I do not have an ohm meter, but will consider one when I take the dive into building my own coils.

In terms of what's working now, I am very satisfied with using the 25/75 juice, the .6(?) coil at 16.5 watts. I plan on working with this configuration for a while changing the wick out every couple of days. I am also considering just buying the 20 pack of pre made coils minus the cotton. I just ordered a box of Koh Gen do sheets.

As far as the ohm reading for the Ni coils when I went thru 3 of them they were all reading about .16 consistently. I believe your suggestion regarding the manipulating the wick with a needle is my next project with the 2 remaining coils, as my goal was to use TC with the Invader mini. I am also going to look at building my own Ni coils as I mentioned, but just want to settle into a good workable system as I would like to do a little more testing of different juices. My goal is to get down to 3mg or just flavor and 100% VG, but I know I will need a good throat hit for a while as 45 years of smoking is going to effect the long term success for me.

Thanks again
 

madmonkey

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@Pax .... you've dove in head deep into pretty advanced stuff that can feel overwhelming at the beginning and I think you're doing a great job of sorting out what you can with it for the time you have and sticking with it is what is important...the vape gear we have today is so many light years ahead of what we had a couple years ago in what I like to call "the dark ages" and then "the middle ages" that there is the right vape out there for everyone, it just takes a little time to find...vaping is a personal journey, not a race...I can't tell you what you'll like, only give you my opinion of what I like for you to take into consideration. At the bottom of this post I will include my standard links for you to go threw at your convience. They are threads a few forum members worked out into an "unofficial guide to advanced vaping" and a couple of threads I typed out for beginners that were way behind where you are at but there is good information in there that I believe can help you as well and will also put the links in to an ohms law calculator and the steam engine tool to help with your building and understanding coils. :)

To answer your question...your device is probably reading the coils accurately...I have not yet to date ever gotten a factory build coil that was the exact resistance it was supposed to be. The closest my .5 OCC coils have come to .5 is .59. most of them are around .68ish which is close enough and any decent varible wattage mod can still put out the vape as the resistance isn't that different...the only ones that this small difference would matter to is if someone were trying to use these tanks on a mech where resistance and battery power level deturmine the output and not a chipset regulating the wattage and vaper so the output is constant....I hope that makes sense...if it doesn't I'l try and explain it again a different way.

Even with Sub ohm tanks better wicking ability you still don't want a 100 percent VG liquid in them as they won't wick well with that thick of liquid...most "100 percent" VG liquids are like 90 percent at best as they have an alcohol based flavor agent in them or have been thinned with a literal drop or 2 of distilled water to make them a little more useable in tanks...but you have to be very careful using water to thin your liquid as one drop too many and it's ruined...its a delicate balance that will be learned in time for another day...right now we just need to concentrate on getting you the right vape to make you happy :) The only reasons you would want a 100 percent or max VG liquid is for cloud chasing or if you have a PG allergy which is much rarer that forums would have you believe because as people quit smoking and their lungs start to clear out and the little hairs inside of them start to work again as they're not being paralized by the non stop pounding of fresh tar and smoke bombarding them they think the cough they get is a sensitivity to PG when 99 percent of the time it's just your body making the adjustment to vaping and trying to clean house and heal :) PG is a much better flavor carrier than anything else out there at the moment and for your tank a good 70VG/30PG would be about the max amount of VG I would try and run threw it to avoid dry hits as much as possible.

Nickel and Titanium are very hard to work with, especially if you've never build a standard coil out of Kanthal or Nicrome. Nickel is very unforgiving and must be cleaned with rubbing alcohol and dried and cannot be torched before you wrap your coil and is very soft and flimsy and just an all around finicky bitch to work with. Also, like I said, sometimes your mod can misread a nickel coil by .0x and it totally screws with how it performs...that is why I am including the steam engine coil tool, it shows you in theory how your coil should turn out and the resistance it should be after it is wrapped so you know just how accurate your mod is...if you're going to rebuild anything I would say you must get an independent ohm's checker as well...not only do they make a good atty stand to build on but they're going to be just as accurate if not more so than your mod. It's not optional for building as it can also help you figure out if you've got a short somewhere or a pinched lead (see links attached for more on this.) but like I said, this stuff takes time... I would get a small spool of 26 or 27 gauge Kanthal and try building on your RDA deck or rebuilding a couple OCC coils before diving into nickel....especially to practice wicking as it's a finesse art that takes time to get the hang of and then once it clicks you'll kick yourself for not figuring out how simple it is (again, see links below.)

Well, I don't want to ramble too much, I hope all the info helps as well as this post. I wish you the best luck finding your vape bud and happy hunting :)

http://thelocust.net/ohm/ <ohm's law calculator
http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp <steam engine tool

And below are the threads that can help you with the knowledge you seek and hopefully same you some time, growing pains, and money :)
http://vapingunderground.com/thread...-sick-clouds-bro-thread-sticky-edition.78126/
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/looking-for-the-best-sub-tanks-and-rda.73126/#post-428210
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/new-sort-of-to-vaping-and-want-huge-clouds.57203/#post-342138
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/beginner-help-please.73577/
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/burning-cotton.94470/
 

Pax

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
@Pax .... you've dove in head deep into pretty advanced stuff that can feel overwhelming at the beginning and I think you're doing a great job of sorting out what you can with it for the time you have and sticking with it is what is important...the vape gear we have today is so many light years ahead of what we had a couple years ago in what I like to call "the dark ages" and then "the middle ages" that there is the right vape out there for everyone, it just takes a little time to find...vaping is a personal journey, not a race...I can't tell you what you'll like, only give you my opinion of what I like for you to take into consideration. At the bottom of this post I will include my standard links for you to go threw at your convience. They are threads a few forum members worked out into an "unofficial guide to advanced vaping" and a couple of threads I typed out for beginners that were way behind where you are at but there is good information in there that I believe can help you as well and will also put the links in to an ohms law calculator and the steam engine tool to help with your building and understanding coils. :)

To answer your question...your device is probably reading the coils accurately...I have not yet to date ever gotten a factory build coil that was the exact resistance it was supposed to be. The closest my .5 OCC coils have come to .5 is .59. most of them are around .68ish which is close enough and any decent varible wattage mod can still put out the vape as the resistance isn't that different...the only ones that this small difference would matter to is if someone were trying to use these tanks on a mech where resistance and battery power level deturmine the output and not a chipset regulating the wattage and vaper so the output is constant....I hope that makes sense...if it doesn't I'l try and explain it again a different way.

Even with Sub ohm tanks better wicking ability you still don't want a 100 percent VG liquid in them as they won't wick well with that thick of liquid...most "100 percent" VG liquids are like 90 percent at best as they have an alcohol based flavor agent in them or have been thinned with a literal drop or 2 of distilled water to make them a little more useable in tanks...but you have to be very careful using water to thin your liquid as one drop too many and it's ruined...its a delicate balance that will be learned in time for another day...right now we just need to concentrate on getting you the right vape to make you happy :) The only reasons you would want a 100 percent or max VG liquid is for cloud chasing or if you have a PG allergy which is much rarer that forums would have you believe because as people quit smoking and their lungs start to clear out and the little hairs inside of them start to work again as they're not being paralized by the non stop pounding of fresh tar and smoke bombarding them they think the cough they get is a sensitivity to PG when 99 percent of the time it's just your body making the adjustment to vaping and trying to clean house and heal :) PG is a much better flavor carrier than anything else out there at the moment and for your tank a good 70VG/30PG would be about the max amount of VG I would try and run threw it to avoid dry hits as much as possible.

Nickel and Titanium are very hard to work with, especially if you've never build a standard coil out of Kanthal or Nicrome. Nickel is very unforgiving and must be cleaned with rubbing alcohol and dried and cannot be torched before you wrap your coil and is very soft and flimsy and just an all around finicky bitch to work with. Also, like I said, sometimes your mod can misread a nickel coil by .0x and it totally screws with how it performs...that is why I am including the steam engine coil tool, it shows you in theory how your coil should turn out and the resistance it should be after it is wrapped so you know just how accurate your mod is...if you're going to rebuild anything I would say you must get an independent ohm's checker as well...not only do they make a good atty stand to build on but they're going to be just as accurate if not more so than your mod. It's not optional for building as it can also help you figure out if you've got a short somewhere or a pinched lead (see links attached for more on this.) but like I said, this stuff takes time... I would get a small spool of 26 or 27 gauge Kanthal and try building on your RDA deck or rebuilding a couple OCC coils before diving into nickel....especially to practice wicking as it's a finesse art that takes time to get the hang of and then once it clicks you'll kick yourself for not figuring out how simple it is (again, see links below.)

Well, I don't want to ramble too much, I hope all the info helps as well as this post. I wish you the best luck finding your vape bud and happy hunting :)

http://thelocust.net/ohm/ <ohm's law calculator
http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp <steam engine tool

And below are the threads that can help you with the knowledge you seek and hopefully same you some time, growing pains, and money :)
http://vapingunderground.com/thread...-sick-clouds-bro-thread-sticky-edition.78126/
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/looking-for-the-best-sub-tanks-and-rda.73126/#post-428210
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/new-sort-of-to-vaping-and-want-huge-clouds.57203/#post-342138
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/beginner-help-please.73577/
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/burning-cotton.94470/

Madmonkey

Once again I am appreciative of the reply. Your points are very valid and I have taken another step in the process. As I said I am going to slow down a little and just enjoy what I have mastered to this point. My wicking skills are improving with each change and buying Kangers pre wrapped coils at .5ish ohm's is how I am going to proceed for a while. It's economical as well as a reasonable next step. Your point on the 100 VG is also well taken as I am not going to an RDA and your point on wicking makes sense. Thanks for the links, a lot of them I have read but will go thru them again.

As my wife says, "it's great you have finally stopped smoking and look you have a new hobby to keep you busy". Enjoying both, only wish I got in the game sooner.
 

madmonkey

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Madmonkey

Once again I am appreciative of the reply. Your points are very valid and I have taken another step in the process. As I said I am going to slow down a little and just enjoy what I have mastered to this point. My wicking skills are improving with each change and buying Kangers pre wrapped coils at .5ish ohm's is how I am going to proceed for a while. It's economical as well as a reasonable next step. Your point on the 100 VG is also well taken as I am not going to an RDA and your point on wicking makes sense. Thanks for the links, a lot of them I have read but will go thru them again.

As my wife says, "it's great you have finally stopped smoking and look you have a new hobby to keep you busy". Enjoying both, only wish I got in the game sooner.

Right on bud, I am sorry if it felt like I was beating you over the head with stuff you already knew...Those are just the links I send to anyone to try and help and sorry if it's stuff you went threw before. I'm glad you're getting the feel for it. The prewrapped coils are a good thing to practice tying stuff down but a 50 foot role of A1 Kanthal from Temco isn't much, I think it's less than 10 bucks, and will give you the wire for 100 coils easy, Lightening Vapes has good wire too but I just think Tempco's wire is higher quality. When you're ready it will be there waiting for you. It's all about what works for you. Good luck on your personal journey into vaping and see you around the Underground :)
 

Pax

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Right on bud, I am sorry if it felt like I was beating you over the head with stuff you already knew...Those are just the links I send to anyone to try and help and sorry if it's stuff you went threw before. I'm glad you're getting the feel for it. The prewrapped coils are a good thing to practice tying stuff down but a 50 foot role of A1 Kanthal from Temco isn't much, I think it's less than 10 bucks, and will give you the wire for 100 coils easy, Lightening Vapes has good wire too but I just think Tempco's wire is higher quality. When you're ready it will be there waiting for you. It's all about what works for you. Good luck on your personal journey into vaping and see you around the Underground :)

Mad Monkey

No beating in any way. I posted to get imput. I have been on many forums and left because information is conveyed in a not so helpful way. I have found this forum to be informative but not condescending. There are always those who feel that they need to prove their knowledge. Did I say that with a diplomatic tone?? Just kidding of course, but the point is, you can always pick up info no matter how well you think you know the topic. I have been involved in training working line sport and K-9 breed dogs. All I can say is some of those forums contain some of the "the greatest experts known to the world", NOT!
Will be giving the building thing a shot in the near future, but am going thru a bout of Vapor's tongue. Again, something that I was not aware of but this forum helped ID. I realize how it, in my ignorance, caused me to be questioning certain aspects of the devices and juice I am using. I stopped to ponder how, if unaware, would cause some to stop vaping.
Now that I have stopped smoking with the substitution of vaping, I believe that it could be the most viable method in helping others quit. Having a Heathcare background I have spoken to many in the field including my friends who are Physicians and although they cannot at this point advocate vaping like other nicotine substitutes, they generally say that if it gets you off the analogs, then yahoo. Hopefully time, studies and success stories will result in directing smokers to vaping as an alternative, but of course when and if that happens the industry will start set standards and then the regulations.
 

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