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help 0.06 ohm

David Wolf

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The mod doesn't let you pull too many amps out of a battery and it wouldn't let you exceed anything. It's not an exploding mech
If you put an 18650 battery rated at 5 amps CDR in a mod designed to use a 20A CDR battery, the mod will allow you to pull well over your 5A battery's rating if you vape at max power. The mod doesn't know your batteries rating, the instruction booklet for a mod should (but doesn't always) tell you the rating of the battery you need for max power. So its on you to use the right battery for the power you use it at.
 

SkoldVape

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
If you put an 18650 battery rated at 5 amps CDR in a mod designed to use a 20A CDR battery, the mod will allow you to pull well over your 5A battery's rating if you vape at max power. The mod doesn't know your batteries rating, the instruction booklet for a mod should (but doesn't always) tell you the rating of the battery you need for max power. So its on you to use the right battery for the power you use it at.
I see your point. I've seen people do that with laptop batteries, it's just pure stupidity to be honest
 

Fudgey Finger

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The CDR has nothing to do with battery safety. Look at Mooch's MVA ratings for that... look right above where he wrote, "Click on the thumbnail of the table above to open the full-size table".
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/b...ngs-picking-a-safe-battery-to-vape-with.7447/
Next, zoom in on the table, and read his explanation about the MVA... it's written in the bottom left corner of this table.

That being said, here on this forum website it is seriously à la mode to keep talking out of one's ass about batteries and battery safety. Most folks here don't even understand the difference between thermal runaway and battery venting, let alone know what causes it. Everything you need to know about battery safety is written in Mooch's blog. For additional info, also be sure to google for "mooch battery", and, next, click on "Videos" (at the top of the search results page). After you've watched those multiple video interviews with Mooch a few times, come back to forum threads like this one, and see for yourself what a load of misinformation is being posted in them constantly. I promise... you'll not know whether you should laugh or cry.

Thanks for sharing. I will def watch that shit when I get home.

You're a smart guy and you get to disagree, but I am responsible for the recommendations I give, and if I give a recommendation that is too conservative I'm good with that for I always want to err on the side of safety.

I don't think he was disagreeing with you but he was answering my question. I'm pretty sure anyway.

Sent from my LGL64VL using Tapatalk
 

SkoldVape

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Thanks for sharing. I will def watch that shit when I get home.



I don't think he was disagreeing with you but he was answering my question. I'm pretty sure anyway.

Sent from my LGL64VL using Tapatalk
Long as there is no arguments. We should all just get along :)
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
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Member For 5 Years
Bottom line is people talk a load of bullshit without even researching stuff.
Then they wonder why their mod is dying two months later. It's user error and they still slate vape companies.
Wismec is a good example, I've had an rx300 since it came out but yet people say wismec suck my mods died.
Good question. Some of the regulated mods I'm familiar with have thermal protection for the internal circuitry, but not for the battery itself - that would require a temperature sensor in contact with the battery - if anyone knows of such a mod I would like to know of it, i think that would be a great design feature. Exceeding the CDR doesn't automatically result in venting or a catastrophic failure due to the ability to go higher for short duration (pulse ratings), however I always recommend staying below the CDR to provide a safety margin, devices fail, and manufacturers aren't perfect, including battery manufacturers and its possible to get a battery off spec. This is a nice article on mod and battery safety:
http://vaping360.com/are-regulated-mods-as-safe-as-we-think/
With a copper/brass/aluminum tube mech that doesn't have an insulating lining, the battery temperature sensor is the skin of your hand whilst you're holding the mod. If you go a tad above the MVA rating on it, then if you chain vape for some time, you'll soon understand this sensor is an incredibly reliable one. The safety mechanism that's attached to this sensor also is rather foolproof. That's just because you'll notice something is getting a little warm in there, and notice it long before you stand a chance of cooking the battery. Of course if you build so stupidly low that the battery overheats in a matter of only seconds, then it might still fail after all. But my point is you can vape a little, pull the battery out, feel how warm the battery gets. Above 45°C/113°F is where the battery starts to age faster than normal. So if you, like me, moderately chain vape a lot at .11 ohms on a single VTC5A battery and the battery only feels barely lukewarm, then you're not spending a great deal of extra money on having to buy new batteries... let alone are abusing the battery to irresponsibly high levels. So the real danger comes from the potential risk of short circuiting the battery, but not if you take the necessary steps to avoid that, and certainly not if you make perfectly sure that you always take the necessary steps to avoid that. And, of course, as the explanation about the MVA points out, silly accidental button presses on the mech are a major no no as well.

Bottom line, I get that we need to tell the newbies they should play it safe, but I also know that if my uncle had tits, he'd be my aunt. :cloud:
 
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SkoldVape

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
With a copper/brass/aluminum tube mech that doesn't have an insulating lining, the battery temperature sensor is the skin of your hand whilst you're holding the mod. If you go a tad above the MVA rating on it, then if you chain vape for some time, you'll soon understand this sensor is an incredibly reliable one. The safety mechanism that's attached to this sensor also is rather foolproof. That's just because you'll notice something is getting a little warm in there, and notice it long before you stand a chance of cooking the battery. Of course if you build so stupidly low that the battery overheats in a matter of only seconds, then it might still fail after all. But my point is you can vape a little, pull the battery out, feel how warm the battery gets. Above 45°C/113°F is where the battery starts to age faster than normal. So if you, like me, moderately chain vape a lot at .11 ohms on a single VTC5A battery and the battery only feels barely lukewarm, then you're not spending a great deal of extra money on having to buy new batteries... let alone are abusing the battery to irresponsibly high levels. So the real danger comes from the potential risk of short circuiting the battery, but not if you take the necessary steps to avoid that, and certainly not if you make perfectly sure that you always take the necessary steps to avoid that. And, of course, as the explanation about the MVA points out, silly accidental button presses on the mech are a major no no as well.

Bottom line, I get that we need to tell the newbies they should play it safe, but I also know that if my uncle had tits, he'd be my aunt. :cloud:
Lmao that last part was funny
 

Carambrda

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Member For 5 Years
That's an excellent link Carambrda, I rely a lot on Mooches battery ratings- his testing tables are invaluable, and its important to read his notes and caveats. I've also reviewed quite a number of battery manufacturers data sheets to see their specs and testing protocols. Mooch's "Max Vaping Amps" are his values based on his testing. If battery manufacturers were conservative and honest, the CDR on the battery label would always be at or below Mooches MVA rating. I agree that if Mooches ratings for MVA are LOWER than a given batteries CDR, we should relay on Mooches MVA rating. Being a conservative engineer, I don't recommend going ABOVE the CDR rating if Mooches MVA tested value is higher, for the reason that mooch tests a certain number of cells, but that doesn't provide assurance that evey battery that comes off of the manufacturing line will meet his MVA rating. Reputable manufacturers that post accurate ratings do so for a reason - to provide a margin of safety that takes into account manufacturing tolerances, quality control, materials control, etc. We may differ on this point, but I've done failure modes and effects evaluations for failures in my industry and know that the higher you push something to its limits, the higher the risk of a failure,
You're a smart guy and you get to disagree, but I am responsible for the recommendations I give, and if I give a recommendation that is too conservative I'm good with that for I always want to err on the side of safety.
Mooch's MVA rating is already taking those tolerances into account... the batteries normally don't start to vent if their temperature is below 110°C, whereas the MVA uses a temperature limit of only 100°C so there's your 10% safety margin. Even if you draw zero amps from a Lithium rechargeable battery, the battery can still start to vent due to manufacturing defects that went undetected─even though this happens only rarely. So even if you vape at only 5 amps on a 25 amp battery, then maybe you should think about vaping at only 2 amps instead... just because 2 amps on a 25 amp battery is "more conservative" than 5 amps on a 25 amp battery. :D
 

David Wolf

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Mooch's MVA rating is already taking those tolerances into account... the batteries normally don't start to vent if their temperature is below 110°C, whereas the MVA uses a temperature limit of only 100°C so there's your 10% safety margin. Even if you draw zero amps from a Lithium rechargeable battery, the battery can still start to vent due to manufacturing defects that went undetected─even though this happens only rarely. So even if you vape at only 5 amps on a 25 amp battery, then maybe you should think about vaping at only 2 amps instead... just because 2 amps on a 25 amp battery is "more conservative" than 5 amps on a 25 amp battery. :D
Yeah you can feel a mod getting warm but that’s no excuse for folks not making sure they use a battery rated for their mod and vaping power. I don’t agree on your second post part about mooch taking manufactures safety margins into account haven’t seen that but I’m gonna let it go and enjoy my weekend lol
 

Carambrda

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Yeah you can feel a mod getting warm but that’s no excuse for folks not making sure they use a battery rated for their mod and vaping power. I don’t agree on your second post part about mooch taking manufactures safety margins into account haven’t seen that but I’m gonna let it go and enjoy my weekend lol
I didn't say it's an excuse. There simply is no excuse for not doing one's homework about battery safety, and, anyone who has listened to Mooch talk knows his ratings are taking pretty much everything into account, including the potential risk of a manufacturer's defect gone undetected at the manufacturing stage─albeit it is nevertheless true that a higher operating temperature does increase the risk of a battery venting... however, if you stay below 45°C/113°F battery temperature like I said, you'll be reasonably very safe (that is, if you follow all the additional safety guidelines) AND for a really very long time to come you'll get stellar performance if you buy only those batteries the performance of which is stellar as opposed to second best. So it's not just about safety, but the performance matters as well. To me, it does.
 

gbalkam

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If you put an 18650 battery rated at 5 amps CDR in a mod designed to use a 20A CDR battery, the mod will allow you to pull well over your 5A battery's rating if you vape at max power. The mod doesn't know your batteries rating, the instruction booklet for a mod should (but doesn't always) tell you the rating of the battery you need for max power. So its on you to use the right battery for the power you use it at.
This is not a "high discharge" battery. Hence not suitable for vaping.

The way a regulated mod works.. is in 2 stages.
The front end controller calculates current voltage of the batteries. It then reads the amount of power the mod is requesting (watts) and via a booster circuit (keeping voltage at a constant 4.2 V) draws power from the battery. Resistance is not used in this stage.
manufacturers set the max amperage to be used in this stage. Usually based on a 3.1v charge (low) and also at 3.5v and 4.2v, any current draw outside these limits will cause the device not to fire. (low battery cut off) or BATTERY LOW error message.
Next
DC(Direct Current)-DC Converters allow a controller to provide an output voltage different from the input voltage. This type of converter is the main element that allows a regulated mod to perform its duties

In stage 2,

Ohm’s law states:

Power = Voltage2/Resistance

And

Resistance = Voltage2/Power



With these 2 formulas, by knowing the maximum output voltage and power of our controller, we can calculate the maximum power that can be delivered to a specific coil and the range of resistances that can actually use all the power.

In regulated mods, the manufacturer sets the max wattage.
During this stage resistance is used in the calculation, but aside from that, really has no bearing here.
for example.. a 220W mod will put out 220w at 0.50, 0.30, 0.20 , 0.15 etc. It can never exceed 220w.
It is also during this stage that your total available wattage may be less than the limit set by manufacturer. For example a 0.60 ohm coil would only allow a max of around 185w (aprox) less than the 220 available at 0.50 ohm or lower.

This is why we suggest only HIGH DISCHARGE brand name batteries. Not some 5A flashlight battery.

See also:
http://blog.thevaporist.org/2015/12/29/regulated-mods/#Input Side
 
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SkoldVape

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
This is not a "high discharge" battery. Hence not suitable for vaping.

The way a regulated mod works.. is in 2 stages.
The front end controller calculates current voltage of the batteries. It then reads the amount of power the mod is requesting (watts) and via a booster circuit (keeping voltage at a constant 4.2 V) draws power from the battery. Resistance is not used in this stage.
manufacturers set the max amperage to be used in this stage. Usually based on a 3.1v charge (low) and also at 3.5v and 4.2v, any current draw outside these limits will cause the device not to fire. (low battery cut off) or BATTERY LOW error message.
Next
DC(Direct Current)-DC Converters allow a controller to provide an output voltage different from the input voltage. This type of converter is the main element that allows a regulated mod to perform its duties

In stage 2,

Ohm’s law states:

Power = Voltage2/Resistance

And

Resistance = Voltage2/Power



With these 2 formulas, by knowing the maximum output voltage and power of our controller, we can calculate the maximum power that can be delivered to a specific coil and the range of resistances that can actually use all the power.

In regulated mods, the manufacturer sets the max wattage.
During this stage resistance is used in the calculation, but aside from that, really has no bearing here.
for example.. a 220W mod will put out 220w at 0.50, 0.30, 0.20 , 0.15 etc. It can never exceed 220w.
It is also during this stage that your total available wattage may be less than the limit set by manufacturer. For example a 0.60 ohm coil would only allow a max of around 185w (aprox) less than the 220 available at 0.50 ohm or lower.

This is why we suggest only HIGH DISCHARGE brand name batteries. Not some 5A flashlight battery.

See also:
http://blog.thevaporist.org/2015/12/29/regulated-mods/#Input Side
Your missing the point of over powered mods though. There are mods that can go higher wattage than what is advertised. I'm the same way a mod can be underpowered and I'm guessing you don't have equipment to test that so it can exceed that wattage and has
 

Carambrda

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Your missing the point of over powered mods though. There are mods that can go higher wattage than what is advertised. I'm the same way a mod can be underpowered and I'm guessing you don't have equipment to test that so it can exceed that wattage and has
Normally it being overpowered shouldn't be an issue because the amp draw is still limited by the board. This limit is typically also dependent of the voltage the board receives from the batteries. That in conjunction with the typical huge voltage sag of low drain batteries is what causes the risk of a battery venting to be mitigated to some real extent. Further, while it is true that some certain regulated mods can unexpectedly (and inadvertently) jump to max power (e.g., Smok GX350), the mod would still need to start auto firing after that, and would have to do so in such a way that the puff cut-off timer also fails in addition to that. (I'm not saying that can never happen, but anyway.) So the general rule of thumb for a regulated mod is typically not based on the max power capability of the mod, but rather, it is based on the highest wattage you'll ever vape on the mod. Nobody in their right mind would put 30 amp batteries in such a big clunky mod thus sacrificing a fuck ton in runtime only because it is so much safer compared to using 25 amp batteries. I mean... do you know why it is unsafe to walk in the woods at night? It's because if a billiards table falls out of a tree you're dead too. Lithium rechargeable batteries are dangerous. It is dangerous to vape on them. Proper education based on correct information is key. But you are right, people shouldn't have to be guessing all the time. Safety mechanisms can and do fail. So why use them for an excuse to not do one's homework about battery safety and do it properly. I have said it before, and will keep saying it... those safety features are notorious for creating a false sense of security. At least I know what I'm doing when I'm vaping on a mech, and so I don't have to rely on the vagueness of some Chinese chipmaker.
 

SkoldVape

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Normally it being overpowered shouldn't be an issue because the amp draw is still limited by the board. This limit is typically also dependent of the voltage the board receives from the batteries. That in conjunction with the typical huge voltage sag of low drain batteries is what causes the risk of a battery venting to be mitigated to some real extent. Further, while it is true that some certain regulated mods can unexpectedly (and inadvertently) jump to max power (e.g., Smok GX350), the mod would still need to start auto firing after that, and would have to do so in such a way that the puff cut-off timer also fails in addition to that. (I'm not saying that can never happen, but anyway.) So the general rule of thumb for a regulated mod is typically not based on the max power capability of the mod, but rather, it is based on the highest wattage you'll ever vape on the mod. Nobody in their right mind would put 30 amp batteries in such a big clunky mod thus sacrificing a fuck ton in runtime only because it is so much safer compared to using 25 amp batteries. I mean... do you know why it is unsafe to walk in the woods at night? It's because if a billiards table falls out of a tree you're dead too. Lithium rechargeable batteries are dangerous. It is dangerous to vape on them. Proper education based on correct information is key. But you are right, people shouldn't have to be guessing all the time. Safety mechanisms can and do fail. So why use them for an excuse to not do one's homework about battery safety and do it properly. I have said it before, and will keep saying it... those safety features are notorious for creating a false sense of security. At least I know what I'm doing when I'm vaping on a mech, and so I don't have to rely on the vagueness of some Chinese chipmaker.
I'm not reading all that but I see what you mean lol
 

gbalkam

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I'm not reading all that but I see what you mean lol
I think the actual number of exploded batteries in regulate mods is around 1 in 10 million. I can't remember where I read that number, but given the number of forums I have been in and videos I have watched, that probably seems about right. I have only heard of 1 regulated mod venting. The cause was mostly best guess. From change in the pocket, to torn battery wraps, or failed 510 pin and short circuit protection chip failure.

I think the main thing to stress regarding battery safety in regulated mods is not the CDR of the battery, but rather the quality and dependability of the battery. Which is why we only recommend 20A-30A high drain, brand name batteries and not re-wrapped re-branded batteries.
 

SkoldVape

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I think the actual number of exploded batteries in regulate mods is around 1 in 10 million. I can't remember where I read that number, but given the number of forums I have been in and videos I have watched, that probably seems about right. I have only heard of 1 regulated mod venting. The cause was mostly best guess. From change in the pocket, to torn battery wraps, or failed 510 pin and short circuit protection chip failure.

I think the main thing to stress regarding battery safety in regulated mods is not the CDR of the battery, but rather the quality and dependability of the battery. Which is why we only recommend 20A-30A high drain, brand name batteries and not re-wrapped re-branded batteries.
Yeah and thank god someone got me off them peaky efest. When I first started using external batteries the shop I went to said they were the best. Assholes
 

Fudgey Finger

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I think the actual number of exploded batteries in regulate mods is around 1 in 10 million. I can't remember where I read that number, but given the number of forums I have been in and videos I have watched, that probably seems about right. I have only heard of 1 regulated mod venting. The cause was mostly best guess. From change in the pocket, to torn battery wraps, or failed 510 pin and short circuit protection chip failure.

I think the main thing to stress regarding battery safety in regulated mods is not the CDR of the battery, but rather the quality and dependability of the battery. Which is why we only recommend 20A-30A high drain, brand name batteries and not re-wrapped re-branded batteries.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with rewraps. In some ways they may be better, like having a thicker wrap on them that won't tear the first time you put them in your mod. Since the biggest danger in a regulated mod comes from a torn wrapper, re-wraps might be a good option for some people.
 

SkoldVape

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
There is absolutely nothing wrong with rewraps. In some ways they may be better, like having a thicker wrap on them that won't tear the first time you put them in your mod. Since the biggest danger in a regulated mod comes from a torn wrapper, re-wraps might be a good option for some people.
Just depends what is under the wrap and it's not hard to rewrap a battery. It's cheap too. I used to rewrap my batteries all the time when I used my xcube ultra. That was notorious for damaging wraps!!
 

Carambrda

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Just depends what is under the wrap and it's not hard to rewrap a battery. It's cheap too. I used to rewrap my batteries all the time when I used my xcube ultra. That was notorious for damaging wraps!!
Usually the rewraps perform slightly worse as well as are more expensive, but certainly not always... and you also have to take the availability into account because, for example, the iJoy 5-legged 20700 battery is easy for me to get, and has been that for more than half a year already. Whereas the non-rewrap version of this same battery (Molicel 20700) is simply impossible for me to find around where I live (Belgium). The iJoy 5-legged 20700 performs exactly the same as the non-rewrap according to Mooch's tests.
 

SkoldVape

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Member For 4 Years
Usually the rewraps perform slightly worse as well as are more expensive, but certainly not always... and you also have to take the availability into account because, for example, the iJoy 5-legged 20700 battery is easy for me to get, and has been that for more than half a year already. Whereas the non-rewrap version of this same battery (Molicel 20700) is simply impossible for me to find around where I live (Belgium). The iJoy 5-legged 20700 performs exactly the same as the non-rewrap according to Mooch's tests.
I can get a Samsung 25r for £5.00 less than an Efest in my town and it is one of the best batteries I've used. Used Sony vtcs before that but now I find it hard to find authentics.
I got use an ijoy 20700 in a mech but wasn't aware it was a rewrap man! I need to do some research hahaha
 

Fudgey Finger

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I can get a Samsung 25r for £5.00 less than an Efest in my town and it is one of the best batteries I've used. Used Sony vtcs before that but now I find it hard to find authentics.
I got use an ijoy 20700 in a mech but wasn't aware it was a rewrap man! I need to do some research hahaha
Ijoy doesn't manufacture batteries. Most battery brands are re-wraps. Most of the batteries that we use for vaping are manufactured by the few big companies that we know of LC,Samsung,etc. Re-wraps aren't inherently bad like most people say. Even when they are B or C grade batteries the performance difference is pretty negligible for most vapers. Most C grade batteries only perform 3-5% worse than their A grade counterparts.

Like Carambrda said though, re-wraps are usually more expensive and usually perform slightly worse than the name brand ones. Even the vtcs that you were getting were most likely not A grade batteries. Mooch says that most of us have never even seen an A grade battery for vaping.
 

SkoldVape

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Ijoy doesn't manufacture batteries. Most battery brands are re-wraps. Most of the batteries that we use for vaping are manufactured by the few big companies that we know of LC,Samsung,etc. Re-wraps aren't inherently bad like most people say. Even when they are B or C grade batteries the performance difference is pretty negligible for most vapers. Most C grade batteries only perform 3-5% worse than their A grade counterparts.

Like Carambrda said though, re-wraps are usually more expensive and usually perform slightly worse than the name brand ones. Even the vtcs that you were getting were most likely not A grade batteries. Mooch says that most of us have never even seen an A grade battery for vaping.
Didn't know ijoy didn't manufacturer batteries so thanks for clearing that up.
And Sony had a stage of doing alot of fakes. Believe they are discontinued now!
 

Carambrda

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Didn't know ijoy didn't manufacturer batteries so thanks for clearing that up.
And Sony had a stage of doing alot of fakes. Believe they are discontinued now!
The only batteries I use for vaping are Sony VTC5A, iJoy 5-legged 20700, and iJoy 26650.

The Samsung 25R is just a remnant from the past... it is only a 20 amp 2500 mAh battery so you would be much better off getting the Sony VTC6 instead, as that one is a 19 amp 3000 mAh battery. In addition, the VTC6 hits harder (i.e. smaller voltage sag) than the Samsung 30Q, which means that even in a regulated mod the VTC6 is a better choice than the 30Q, albeit the difference between these two is small. In a regulated mod, this difference is in fact the equivalent of about 100 mAh of extra runtime, per Mooch. It can be explained from the fact the VTC6 runs at a higher voltage for longer (i.e. smaller voltage sag) so you're getting a bit more Wh (watt hours) compared to the 30Q. (Runtime actually is Wh, not mAh.) So even if you can't get the VTC6 where you live, then there's still no reason to still buy the 25R, as the 30Q has 500 more mAh than the 25R. The price gap is too small to justify any sacrifice in performance, even between the VTC6 and the 30Q. That's just because you know you will be enjoying the added performance every single day for a really very long time, regardless of your old habits, and regardless of how you feel about the 25R or about Samsung (or both).

For me, though, 20 amp batteries are simply not enough due to my vaping style... and I don't want to sacrifice too much runtime so 30 amp batteries are useless to me if they're 18650 batteries. The highest mAh you can get from an 18650 if you want it to be a 30 amp battery is only 1800 mAh (Vapcell Black) so... far too impractical to use IMO. That is why I use the VTC5A instead, which is a 25 amp 2500 mAh battery. And the VTC5A hits harder initially at the start than any other 18650 excepting only the aforementioned Vapcell Black, which makes the VTC5A great for use in the mech, but a lot of people keep also forgetting the fact it can, due to the high voltage that the VTC5A runs at (i.e. small voltage sag), also be a better choice [than the VTC6 or 30Q] for use in a regulated mod depending on how you use it. (Even, if the battery safety general rule of thumb is suggesting you don't require the VTC5A to be relatively safe enough.)

As for the iJoys... I buy the 5-legged 20700 and the 26650 because they both are 30 amp batteries, yet, despite that, their runtime is longer than that of the VTC5A. Sure, they don't hit as hard as the VTC5A, but in the mech, they catch up pretty fast due to their longer runtime, and, in addition, they heat up slower than the VTC5A so I can chain vape like a maniac. (On a single VTC5A at .11 ohms I chain vape like a half maniac.)
 

SkoldVape

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
The only batteries I use for vaping are Sony VTC5A, iJoy 5-legged 20700, and iJoy 26650.

The Samsung 25R is just a remnant from the past... it is only a 20 amp 2500 mAh battery so you would be much better off getting the Sony VTC6 instead, as that one is a 19 amp 3000 mAh battery. In addition, the VTC6 hits harder (i.e. smaller voltage sag) than the Samsung 30Q, which means that even in a regulated mod the VTC6 is a better choice than the 30Q, albeit the difference between these two is small. In a regulated mod, this difference is in fact the equivalent of about 100 mAh of extra runtime, per Mooch. It can be explained from the fact the VTC6 runs at a higher voltage for longer (i.e. smaller voltage sag) so you're getting a bit more Wh (watt hours) compared to the 30Q. (Runtime actually is Wh, not mAh.) So even if you can't get the VTC6 where you live, then there's still no reason to still buy the 25R, as the 30Q has 500 more mAh than the 25R. The price gap is too small to justify any sacrifice in performance, even between the VTC6 and the 30Q. That's just because you know you will be enjoying the added performance every single day for a really very long time, regardless of your old habits, and regardless of how you feel about the 25R or about Samsung (or both).

For me, though, 20 amp batteries are simply not enough due to my vaping style... and I don't want to sacrifice too much runtime so 30 amp batteries are useless to me if they're 18650 batteries. The highest mAh you can get from an 18650 if you want it to be a 30 amp battery is only 1800 mAh (Vapcell Black) so... far too impractical to use IMO. That is why I use the VTC5A instead, which is a 25 amp 2500 mAh battery. And the VTC5A hits harder initially at the start than any other 18650 excepting only the aforementioned Vapcell Black, which makes the VTC5A great for use in the mech, but a lot of people keep also forgetting the fact it can, due to the high voltage that the VTC5A runs at (i.e. small voltage sag), also be a better choice [than the VTC6 or 30Q] for use in a regulated mod depending on how you use it. (Even, if the battery safety general rule of thumb is suggesting you don't require the VTC5A to be relatively safe enough.)

As for the iJoys... I buy the 5-legged 20700 and the 26650 because they both are 30 amp batteries, yet, despite that, their runtime is longer than that of the VTC5A. Sure, they don't hit as hard as the VTC5A, but in the mech, they catch up pretty fast due to their longer runtime, and, in addition, they heat up slower than the VTC5A so I can chain vape like a maniac. (On a single VTC5A at .11 ohms I chain vape like a half maniac.)
I do agree the sonys are better for me too
 

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