Yes on 14 ga wire to bridge the neg and positive on bottom of sled. I use 14 ga solid for everything all connections, but technically you can use the lower ga wire off the fet, to switch. Now I recommend just using 14 ga solid for EVERYTHING, keeps your shopping list a bit more easy, and bigger is better on wire, yet still looking and performing excellent. Up to you though.
You WANT that resistor. That helps with shutting off the gating of the fet. Think of it like this. When you let go of the fire button you want the power is stop immediately, not 5 seconds after. That resistor will aid in stopping the gating action of that fet.
If you use a fet YES you can use any switch you want. The smaller the switch will make it much easier for you when it comes to tucking your wires into a nice looking tidy fit. Huge button you will have some extra work to do and makes it a pain in the ass to route your wires past. I love the mini tactile switches man they tiny. For me the last 2 solder connections I do on by build is the switch.
NOTES: Im no pro, and I dont sell for money, I just made a few boxes for a couple friends and me. I have access to top rate soldering equipment, and have soldered hundreds of control boards at work, and have a electrical engineer at work to bounce ideas off of when I needed it. That being said I have learned a couple things along the way that I will gladly share with you. First couple boxes I did I used 14 ga stranded wire, I switched to solid because the solid holds sharp bends very good and tight, and I like my wires and bends to look tidy and tight. The stranded wire when you bend it real sharp, it tends to look rounded and doesnt hold it's shape sometimes. (Just personal preference)
Mosfets are cheap but there are MANY people that burn them up before even geting them in their box. The most tricky thing in building a box mod is doing the fet and resistor without burning it up soldering. Make sure you have your soldering skills at peak when you go to solder the fet/resistor/wire. I will attach a picture at the end of this post, how I wire mine. I solder the resistor and wire to fet in 1 shot. I have the fet holding with a pair of aligator clips acting as a heat sink, so I dont burn my fet during soldering. I recommend getting a few mosfets if you think your soldering skills might not be up to par. They are very cheap, incase you get it to hot and burn it up on first solder try. Using a helping hands holder with the aligator clips for that fet during soldering is recommended for taking the heat off that fet body during soldering.
The first 2 fet pictures below are the way to run your leads best for a series build. The last picture of the heat shrinked fet is how I do mine for a parallel build.After each lead is properly heat shrinked individually, I use 1 big piece of heat shrink to do the whole fet and resistor.
People are hoarding all the fets building these boxes, causing massive shortages. You might be forced to use ebay to get them. I had to get my last 2 off ebay.
This is the one you have to get
http://my.mouser.com/ProductDetail/International-Rectifier/IRLB3034PBF/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMshyDBzk1/Wi5%2bqVgN3%2bWS8iNZUeqPPDAc=
Do not get the cheap ones from china vendors!!!
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