Help! - Subtank Mini RBA

[skt239]

Hello all,

Today I took my second stab at coil building and it was a dismal failure. This is my second attempt, the first time I did a few months ago on another Subtank Mini that I have and it worked great. Here are the steps I took before vaping with the RBA...

- Pre soaked the coil with two drops on the side juice holes and three drops down the top.
- Let the RBA sit for around 15 min, then let it sit in the tank for around a half hour.
- Took a few dry puffs to prime
- Started at 10 watts and slowly worked my way up the 30

When I hit 30 watts I got the hottest, burniest (is that a word? it is now) hit of my life. According to the coil I can take it all the way up to 40 with Max VG. The two juice I tried it with were Doh' Nuts (way over rated) and Teleos Alpha. Below is a picture of the coil, can anyone tell whats wrong just by looking at it?

Thanks.

 

[atssec97]

Im no expert, but that build looks pretty darn good to me. I haven't had much luck with higher wattage's on either of my subtanks with factory coils or the rba. I keep them around 15 watts and enjoy the hell out of them.
List the specifics on your build and I am sure others can give you much better info! Specifics such as wire size, diameter of your coil and resistance reading maybe?
Good Luck!

 

[CrazyChef]

Yours looks similar to some of the coils I've built for my subtank mini. But those I used at between 20-25 watts, depending on what they were.
What is the coil resistance? What wire and gauge are you using? Are you getting enough airflow? On the subtank mini all you need to do, from what I've been told, is make sure the juice holes are adequately covered to prevent leakage into the airflow hole.

Here is a coil I built similar to yours. The flavor it delivered was quite good, and it shows proper wicking for the subtank mini (before priming).

 

[CrazyChef]

Also, are you using the old style (with juice channels) or the new style (with 2 juice holes on the sides) RBA?

 

[skt239]

Sorry for the late reply and thanks for all of yours.. I'm am using what I assume is the latest version for the Subtank, with the provided Kanthol & Cotton. It reads perfectly at .5 ohms.

 

[newjin]

What I have noticed with the subtank mini is that you really need to lightly push the cotton away from the holes making a pocket for the juice to flow in.
at first I though It would cause for leaking or spit back and that is not the case at all .
I'm vaping on it using a twisted coil at .4 ohms at usually 25 to 30 watts on my sigelei 150 . Again if you are having wicking problems cause of thicker juice push that cotton away from the holes . Try that hope it works brotha .

 

[newjin]

Sorry that kinda contradicts crazychef but that's just what works for me .I do the same thing when I rebuild on my subtank nano . I really hope you figure this out cause I love my mini .

 

[skt239]

Thanks guys. I ordered some more wire and cotton that should be here this week. I'll keep everyone updated.

 

[EarnestAccord]

I've wicked two ways; the style discussed here and a way that I've not seen anywhere. Keeping the sandwich style OC as straight as possible ie. all the fibers running in the same direction, I then pull the end through the juice holes. Cut so that there's a small amount, say 1/16th of an inch left, and then flare that peice aka. "Pancake" it. Prime as usual and let'r rip.

 

[skt239]

Well I put one together and it seems to be working alright as long as I don't go over 30 watts. Anything over 30 is a tire fire. Is that normal with the Subtank ?

 

[skt239]

Well I put one together and it seems to be working alright as long as I don't go over 30 watts. Anything over 30 is a tire fire. Is that normal with the Subtank ?

Edit to add... 30 watts burns like the dickens. Highest i can go is 20 and that's a bit warm

 

[EarnestAccord]

Not for me.... I tend to lean on the tight side when pulling wick through the coil...
When I first got my mini and used the RBA deck w/ factory coil I also had tons of dry hits. It wasnt until I started builing my own 22g spaced 1ohm coils did it stop. Sometimes if things seem to running a bit dry, not quite burnt, I'll plug the AFC with my fingers and suck. Creates a strong negative pressure in the RBA pulling juice into the wick. I've never had to do that more than a few times on a new build until it just starts working flawless, even up to 40w or so.
Though I may be miss-leading you. I don't actually use the horizonal set-up anylonger because of low airflow and it seeming to run quite warm. I've been building spaced vertical coils which take a bit more wick to work and I NEVER get dry hits. Not sure why it works the way it does, probably a mix of more wick and how the coil vapes the liquid. There is something special about a vertical coil.
Good luck

 

[Flightmedic76]

I started messing with the UD pre-made Clapton Wire I picked up a few days ago. 5 wraps at 2.5mm is clocking in around .5ohms. I've been running it at 30 watts, and it ramps up quickly. I'm getting good flavor and a decent cloud with just a 2 second hit using Muffin Man and Cotton Bacon.

 

[Vlad1]

Hello all,

Today I took my second stab at coil building and it was a dismal failure. This is my second attempt, the first time I did a few months ago on another Subtank Mini that I have and it worked great. Here are the steps I took before vaping with the RBA...

- Pre soaked the coil with two drops on the side juice holes and three drops down the top.
- Let the RBA sit for around 15 min, then let it sit in the tank for around a half hour.
- Took a few dry puffs to prime
- Started at 10 watts and slowly worked my way up the 30

When I hit 30 watts I got the hottest, burniest (is that a word? it is now) hit of my life. According to the coil I can take it all the way up to 40 with Max VG. The two juice I tried it with were Doh' Nuts (way over rated) and Teleos Alpha. Below is a picture of the coil, can anyone tell whats wrong just by looking at it?

Thanks.

Hard to tell by your picture but it looks like your using one of the original RBA bases that have the juice channels on the bottom and are pretty small so they don't wick that much juice unless modified. The RBA Plus base has much larger holes on the sides and wicks much better allowing a bit more power to be applied without getting dry hits.

The one on the left is the RBA Plus, the one on the right is an original. I'm thinking you have the one on the right.

 

[Lost]

The one on the left is the RBA Plus, the one on the right is an original.
View attachment 31502

Ohhh... nice. I have the original, and it's given me nothing but grief. Anyone want to give me a warning before I drill holes in it, to make my own Plus?

[I'm assuming someone already talked about this in another thread. I'm taking a couple days off to catch up on stuff like this, and just started reading. Thanks.]

 

[Vlad1]

Ohhh... nice. I have the original, and it's given me nothing but grief. Anyone want to give me a warning before I drill holes in it, to make my own Plus?

[I'm assuming someone already talked about this in another thread. I'm taking a couple days off to catch up on stuff like this, and just started reading. Thanks.]

If you just drilled holes in the side you'd still have the juice channels on the bottom of the base to contend with which could lead to flooding. You may consider just increasing the size of the channels with a file or dremel on the bottom instead. Alternatively the RBA Plus bases are $6 or $7 so wouldn't break the bank to just buy one and not risk ruining your current base.

 

[Lost]

The voice of reason has spoketh. Thanks vlad.