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Help: Which is good for mech internal? Silver or Copper or Gold Plated Internals?

Hi guys
Before i go buy my forever Mod
which is better and a hard hitter mechanical box mod based on the internals:
Silver plated Internals?
Copper Plated Internals?
Gold Plated Internals?

i wanted to buy POINT BLANK LITE EDITION but it's Gold plated i dont know if its good in producing
vapor or so what?



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Whiskey

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Hi and welcome to VU, moving this to Mech area for better exposure, Good luck!!!:wave:
 

HondaDavidson

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
solid is always better than plating. but I believe its best to worse Gold, silver then copper. fact is I doubt the average vapor could even tell the difference between materials via vaping from them, no looking. The volt drop differences are so small they ONLY show up on the screen of a test scope. Hard hitting is about the battery, build and the atty NOT, the holder.
 

Stepinrazor

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The purpose of plating internals with Platinum, Gold or Silver is to help minimise oxidisation not improve conductivity.

All 3 metal plates serve equally well for this purpose as precious metals don't oxidise as quickly as brass or copper. No decent mech mod uses copper plate (not even sure if that exists)

Base solid copper internals, plated with any precious metal performs equally well.
 

nightshard

It's VG/PG not PG/VG
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Silver and gold plating doesn't change much in regards to conductivity for mech tube bodies, it's mostly relevant for contacts (pins and button parts)
There are no copper plated contacts just plain copper contacts, the problem with copper is that it's soft and corrodes easily.
What you would usually find are SS or Brass contacts plated with silver or gold.
As for conductivity, silver is better then copper and copper is better then gold.
As for corrosion, gold is better then silver and silver is better then copper.
 
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Neunerball

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Hard hitting is about the battery, build and the atty NOT, the holder.
That's not quite correct. I own a pricey 26650 mech mod, and a 26650 Copper Stingray X clone. The Stingray is outperforming the expensive mod, utilizing the same RDA. IMO, for better performance, and not going hybrid, either a copper mod, maybe gold or silver plated, or even an aluminum mod.
 

Stepinrazor

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My advice is to watch as many videos on mechs on You Tube to help you better understand mechmods before you decide to invest in one. It will help your decision making process and end up with a device better suited to your style of vaping.

Your first decision really should be on the form factor, box, stacked or single tube. The switch type, 510 connector, hybrid, straight to battery or not and if you are going for a box mod, whether parallel or serial. You should also be looking for adequate venting, ease of maintenance and build quality.

In my opinion, copper offers the best performance (against price point) regarding voltage drop, closely followed by brass both metals will need regular maintenance/cleaning less so if plated with any precious metal.
 
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Stepinrazor

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solid is always better than plating. but I believe its best to worse Gold, silver then copper. fact is I doubt the average vapor could even tell the difference between materials via vaping from them, no looking. The volt drop differences are so small they ONLY show up on the screen of a test scope. Hard hitting is about the battery, build and the atty NOT, the holder.

To maximise the full potential of the coil and battery, both the threads and internals of the mod need to be free from oxidisation, including both poles of the battery.
 

Neunerball

Platinum Contributor
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In my opinion, copper offers the best performance regarding voltage drop, closely followed by brass both metals will need regular maintenance/cleaning less so if plated with any precious metal.
Or wrapped with carbon fiber (e.g. Fuhattan). I think, the exposed copper is even coated. My Fuhattan hasn't shown any signs of oxidation on the exposed copper yet.
 

HondaDavidson

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
The exposed metal can be as dirty or oxidized as you want....... patina looks good on brass and copper, IMO. Only the contact points and threads mater as far a conductivity is concerned. Wraps, clear coats do not affect performance, unless they are blocking venting or on the contact points.
 

nightshard

It's VG/PG not PG/VG
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Best all around cost effective option is copper body with silver plated brass contacts.

Money is not an issue option would be solid sterling silver body and contacts with gold plating on the body.
 

nightshard

It's VG/PG not PG/VG
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Just to make things clear, copper, gold, silver and aluminium are all excellent conductors.

Electrical resistivity (10.E-8 ohm.m):
Silver 1.6
Copper 1.7
Gold 2.3
Aluminium 2.7
Titanium 41.7
316SS 76
 

BoomStick

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
The exposed metal can be as dirty or oxidized as you want....... patina looks good on brass and copper, IMO. Only the contact points and threads mater as far a conductivity is concerned.
That's not true. Almost all the current travels on the surface of the conductor. The only reason patina'd mechs still conduct well is because the inside of the tube isn't corroded. Force patina (force corrode) the inside and outside of a tube and even with clean threads and contacts the conductivity will be absolutely terrible. Ever seen what a green battery cable with clean connectors does on a car? Doesn't start.
 

martnargh

Silver Contributor
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.999 solid silver is your best bet. A firing pin on a mech made of .999 solid silver nets around 40 bucks.
The less contact surfaces the current has to go through, like pins, and multiple threading, the better.
Also if you get a beefy mech with a shit spring in the button housing youll get a hot button as most likely it wont be able to hold the load without heating up, this is why people use magnets and non conducive springs. .999 silver springs go for like 10 bucks and are pretty effective for people like me who dislike the soft throw of a magnet set.
All these things are important but it all means shit if you dont follow up with good cells and check your builds for a safe ride. Even a solid silver mech with hybrid solid silver rda wont save you from stupidity.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
 

Stepinrazor

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.999 solid silver is your best bet. A firing pin on a mech made of .999 solid silver nets around 40 bucks.
The less contact surfaces the current has to go through, like pins, and multiple threading, the better.
Also if you get a beefy mech with a shit spring in the button housing youll get a hot button as most likely it wont be able to hold the load without heating up, this is why people use magnets and non conducive springs. .999 silver springs go for like 10 bucks and are pretty effective for people like me who dislike the soft throw of a magnet set.
All these things are important but it all means shit if you dont follow up with good cells and check your builds for a safe ride. Even a solid silver mech with hybrid solid silver rda wont save you from stupidity.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

I have silver plated springs and gold plated magnets, wouldn't springs made from solid silver be too soft.

VCM mods come with gold plated buttons and silver plated contacts.
 

martnargh

Silver Contributor
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I have silver plated springs and gold plated magnets, wouldn't springs made from solid silver be too soft.

VCM mods come with gold plated buttons and silver plated contacts.
i got my silver springs from 2 different places, one is a dude from facebook who has a jewel bust out some silver springs and silver contactsbfor rogue, able and scndrl mods. he charged 40 for the contacts and 10 for springs. i got a couple other from complyfe and they perform the same.
silver springs are very soft, but not as soft as even the beefiest magnets, which for me is an upgrade since i dislike magnets.
i wanna find someone that has springs like in the rogue mod where its not metal at all as its hard as shit throw, which i like and hardly ever gives ya a hot button, provided you keep the threads in the button housing clean. the spring fits in the scndrl but i cant get it to work in any other mod... wish mark would sell them springs seperately but i get why he doesnt as its one of the most important parts to the rogue.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
 

pulsevape

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
fuck I don't know I have a mod that has brass contact with a silver spring and it hits better to me than a solid copper mod, and a brass hybrid that to me is perfect.....I know it shoiuld be a simple matter of conductivity of diffrent metals but sometimes I think mod design plays a larger part than I imagined.....I don't know
 

Jimi D

Gold Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
fuck I don't know I have a mod that has brass contact with a silver spring and it hits better to me than a solid copper mod, and a brass hybrid that to me is perfect.....I know it shoiuld be a simple matter of conductivity of diffrent metals but sometimes I think mod design plays a larger part than I imagined.....I don't know
So true dude. Ever since I started using nichrome 80 in my mechs. I don't worry about voltage drops anymore.
 
By
Hi guys
Before i go buy my forever Mod
which is better and a hard hitter mechanical box mod based on the internals:
Silver plated Internals?
Copper Plated Internals?
Gold Plated Internals?

i wanted to buy POINT BLANK LITE EDITION but it's Gold plated i dont know if its good in producing
vapor or so what?



.
I've been into mech mods since before the blu which shit launched. Been vaping for years now. I've gone through av, complete, tvl, vaperzcloud, nemesis, congestus, ohmega, clones of all. Check it out man. Price is based off of design and quality. I've used everything from aluminum to platinum plated. Personally you have to look up the metals conductivity. I'm being dead serious I've had an aluminum limitless with a copper button upgrade and it hit just as well as the copper mod itself. The mod is the ground (especially with hybrids) the copper 510 pin on an rda (for hybrids) is like a copper 510 floating pin for non hybrids. Copper is 100% conductive. Yeah it tarnishes quickly and you need to keep up with the cleanliness of the cake gear but dude to be 100 % real with you don't spend an ass load of money on some super mech. Copper contacts is all you need silver is 110% conductive. The volt drop is so miniscule it has to be seen with computerized methods unless your and electrician. Brass mods, copper mods, aluminum mods all the same ground is ground just have coooer contacts. And safe batteries. Tbh I've had a scdrl second edition and compared it to a 50$ clone of an av set up and the same rda I couldn't tell a damn difference man. And I've been doing this for years. Stay cheap and stay safe. Personally vaperzcloud does it right, limitless does it right, and continuous current do it right. Screw all these fancy fancy mods unless your gonna buy it to sell it again a few months later. I back tracked from complyfe and got another vcm mod and it works honestly just the same. I shaved off the silver plating and honestly it works better screw the hype and go what ever metal mod just have copper contacts
 

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