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Help with building please

CAPER88

Member For 2 Years
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I'm new to the rta scene...i have a Griffin mini on an istick 30watt....i can't seem to get a coil to work for me....i have tried 7-10 wraps gives me an amazing ohm reading but when I fire it up to get any hot spots out my voltage always spikes to 5.1 and up....Can anyone help me with how to get a good coil that i can actually use :(
I'm using 26 gauge kanthal....originally had 22 gauge but that was too thick...and taking to long to heat up
 

gbalkam

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First of all, it is going to have to be a single coil.
6 wraps of 26ga kanthal, on a 2.5 id core, single coil should vape ok.
or on a 2.25 id core (the size of the little blue screwdriver shaft that came with the atomizer) will work better.
30w isn't much to work with and you need to have heat flux of 300 mW/mm2 to get a decent vape.

The good news is, you can build a fairly usable coil right now with what you have. Bad news, if you want to get into dual coils, you are going to need a more powerful mod. 30 just will not power a decent dual coil set up. 2 wraps per coil isn't much good, so I tried to do a build of at least 5. 6 is even better.

Here is the build..
http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html?r=0.75&hf=350&awg=26&id=2.5
 

CAPER88

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
First of all, it is going to have to be a single coil.
6 wraps of 26ga kanthal, on a 2.5 id core, single coil should vape ok.
or on a 2.25 id core (the size of the little blue screwdriver shaft that came with the atomizer) will work better.
30w isn't much to work with and you need to have heat flux of 300 mW/mm2 to get a decent vape.

The good news is, you can build a fairly usable coil right now with what you have. Bad news, if you want to get into dual coils, you are going to need a more powerful mod. 30 just will not power a decent dual coil set up. 2 wraps per coil isn't much good, so I tried to do a build of at least 5. 6 is even better.

Here is the build..
http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html?r=0.75&hf=350&awg=26&id=2.5
I've been using a 3 mm screwdriver as a jig... is that my main problem then?? When I 1st set it up I had a dual coil.....not sure the gauge or anything thou it had come with a jig that a buddy had that lent me the Griffin....so should o maybe change my rta to something along the lines of a kanger suntan??
 

gbalkam

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it isnt the rta, it is the actual 30w mod you are using. It just isn't powerful enough to power more than a single coil, and only around 26g min. You could go with a dual coil 32ga but that wouldn't give you much satisfaction. 3.0 core should be fine, even with 6 wraps. I allowed a little bit of room for adjustment. 5 wraps on a 3.0 id core might be a bit better.

Now I will say, you can build some pretty impressive single coil builds. For example, I am using a 3 strand, 7 wrap, 32ga stainless steel coil on my kanger toptank mini rba., 5 wraps would probably be about right for 30w, but.. that is like 15 loops so still a really decent vape.

I think, it is better to run 1 good single coil build, that a bad dual coil, right?

You can use that link I sent earlier to play around with your coil before actually building it. select your wire, and core size, change the desired ohms, and you want your heat flux above say.. 300. 350 would be even better.

The suntan looks pretty good. But same problem.. You only have 30w to work with. BUT... you can work with that 30w and get a decent vape. The juice holes are large and lots of airflow.
 

gbalkam

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LOL.. I think you will get hooked and be looking for a new mod in the next month or 2. Building is addictive. The more flavor and cloud you get, the more flavor and cloud you want. I have a 200w mod now, and looking at a new 360w mod. Which will let me do more complex and heavier coil builds.
The wife won't let me hook into the fuse panel.. so 360w will have to be enough. LOL
 

SirRichardRear

AKA Anthony Vapes on Youtube
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LOL.. I think you will get hooked and be looking for a new mod in the next month or 2. Building is addictive. The more flavor and cloud you get, the more flavor and cloud you want. I have a 200w mod now, and looking at a new 360w mod. Which will let me do more complex and heavier coil builds.
The wife won't let me hook into the fuse panel.. so 360w will have to be enough. LOL
nice! which one you looking at?
 

CAPER88

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
LOL.. I think you will get hooked and be looking for a new mod in the next month or 2. Building is addictive. The more flavor and cloud you get, the more flavor and cloud you want. I have a 200w mod now, and looking at a new 360w mod. Which will let me do more complex and heavier coil builds.
The wife won't let me hook into the fuse panel.. so 360w will have to be enough. LOL
Lol didn't even last that long...going in next couple of days....what would u suggest for someone?? I want something with a built in battery that's good for the rta I have....or if it's cheaper if be open to getting a full setup
 

Neunerball

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Lol didn't even last that long...going in next couple of days....what would u suggest for someone?? I want something with a built in battery that's good for the rta I have....or if it's cheaper if be open to getting a full setup
I don't recommend getting a mod with a build in battery. Once the battery fails, you would have to get a new mod.

I'd be looking for a mod with at least 75 W (or more), and 26650 single rechargeable, or dual 18650 battery.
 

CAPER88

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
I don't recommend getting a mod with a build in battery. Once the battery fails, you would have to get a new mod.

I'd be looking for a mod with at least 75 W (or more), and 26650 single rechargeable, or dual 18650 battery.
I'm thinking on a kanger top/subbox starter Kit??
 

Neunerball

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I'm thinking on a kanger top/subbox starter Kit??
Personally, I'm not fond of Kanger mods, due to having read many negative posts here on VU, and seen reviews on YouTube.

I recommend watching reviews on the tube of mods you are interested in, and look for postings here on VU. Doing a lot of research, will safe you money.

How long have you been vaping? What is your budget? What are the features of the mod you're looking for?
 

CAPER88

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Personally, I'm not fond of Kanger mods, due to having read many negative posts here on VU, and seen reviews on YouTube.

I recommend watching reviews on the tube of mods you are interested in, and look for postings here on VU. Doing a lot of research, will safe you money.

How long have you been vaping? What is your budget? What are the features of the mod you're looking for?
I think for now I'm gonna wait...o don't know if you could tell me off hand but at this current moment i have a coil in made with 22g kanthsl running at .4ohms and 3.4volts at 30w.....how can I achieve those kind of numbers with 26g
 

Neunerball

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I think for now I'm gonna wait...o don't know if you could tell me off hand but at this current moment i have a coil in made with 22g kanthsl running at .4ohms and 3.4volts at 30w.....how can I achieve those kind of numbers with 26g
According to http://www.steam-engine.org/modrange.asp, the sweet spot for a coil for your mod, would be a 1.5 Ohm coil. You can go lower though. However, with a 26g Kanthal wire, I wouldn't go lower than 0.8 Ohm, due to prefering to have 6 - 10 wraps with the coils, I build. It also helps in keeping the wattage lower, thus longer battery life.
As @gbalkam mentioned, use http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp as a guideline, for building your coils.
 

gbalkam

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Member For 4 Years
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I don't recommend getting a mod with a build in battery. Once the battery fails, you would have to get a new mod.

I'd be looking for a mod with at least 75 W (or more), and 26650 single rechargeable, or dual 18650 battery.
I agree, but for a totally different reason. My reason is you don't know what battery is inside those built in battery mods. With the 18650 rechargeable WE choose what is the best and safest battery. Not what is cheapest to get a mod out to the sales floors. The fact that it saves you from replacing the whole mod is a good reason, but the safety factor is a better reason. I have seen ONE regulated mod fail and the batteries went thermal and vented. BUT the key word is vented... The person was using samsung 25Rs, so it vented but did not explode.

I have used kangers topbox mini RTA for about a year now. Any problem was very easy to fix. Usually it just involved taking the tank apart and being a little more careful when putting it back together, making sure the atomizer was in correctly and tight enough, and the chimney was not mis-threaded. And in properly wicking the rba mini. The bunny ears method is fool proof, but once you prime the wick, you can't make adjustments. So you get it in position first, then leave it alone.

*bunny ears, is when you wick the coil, lead the ends up through the sleeve of the rba and trim at the top of the sleeve, then position the cotton over the juice holes, prime and then replace the top cap of the rba mini. So called because when you put the sleeve on before trimming the wick... it looks like bunny ears* There are people in this forum that have tried this and swear by it.
The only actual issue with leaking, is if you don't close the airflow when filling, but that would be an issue with any top fill tank.
 

gbalkam

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I think for now I'm gonna wait...o don't know if you could tell me off hand but at this current moment i have a coil in made with 22g kanthsl running at .4ohms and 3.4volts at 30w.....how can I achieve those kind of numbers with 26g

That really isn't relevant. 22g and 26g are totally different animals. What you need to realize is 26ga kanthal is lighter than 22g, so takes less power. You will also find 26ga is going to give you a better vape. Faster ramp up time and better vaping results. I'll do up a 0.40 ohm 26ga demo coil...

Ok..
Single coil, 5 wraps of 26ga kanthal at 0.64 ohms will work well at 30w. The mod will adjust for voltage. (based on 410 mW/mm2 heat flux)
I really can't imagine a 22ga coil at 0.40 ohm working at all at 30w. That is a lot of wire for that small amount of power. To hit 0.40 ohm with 22ga kanthal, you would need 7 wraps and 74 watts of power to achieve the same heat flux (amount of heat produced by the coil) as the 26ga build above.
At 30w you get only 160 mW/mm2 heat flux, which is a really really cool vape. Just barely enough to vaporize the juice. IE.. no cloud and no flavor.

edit.. I built the demo coils based on 410 mW/mm2 as that allows you to vape at a lower wattage, yet have more than enough heat available, even if you put the coil on and RDA with lots of airflow. For a tank, 25w will likely be about right. It is better to have a bit to much power available to use, than not enough. Since you can always lower your wattage, but if you are at the max, you can't increase it.
 
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CAPER88

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
That really isn't relevant. 22g and 26g are totally different animals. What you need to realize is 26ga kanthal is lighter than 22g, so takes less power. You will also find 26ga is going to give you a better vape. Faster ramp up time and better vaping results. I'll do up a 0.40 ohm 26ga demo coil...

Ok..
Single coil, 5 wraps of 26ga kanthal at 0.64 ohms will work well at 30w. The mod will adjust for voltage. (based on 410 mW/mm2 heat flux)
I really can't imagine a 22ga coil at 0.40 ohm working at all at 30w. That is a lot of wire for that small amount of power. To hit 0.40 ohm with 22ga kanthal, you would need 7 wraps and 74 watts of power to achieve the same heat flux (amount of heat produced by the coil) as the 26ga build above.
At 30w you get only 160 mW/mm2 heat flux, which is a really really cool vape. Just barely enough to vaporize the juice. IE.. no cloud and no flavor.

edit.. I built the demo coils based on 410 mW/mm2 as that allows you to vape at a lower wattage, yet have more than enough heat available, even if you put the coil on and RDA with lots of airflow. For a tank, 25w will likely be about right. It is better to have a bit to much power available to use, than not enough. Since you can always lower your wattage, but if you are at the max, you can't increase it.
Thanks for all the help just got back from my local shop...ended up buying a istick 50w and a new kanger topbox mini with topfill and rba
 

Lovemonkey3833

Member For 4 Years
Pretty new as well, but from what I can tell I would've had gone with at least a 150w mod if you into building. Might wanna return that and get a Sigelei 213 or Smok Alien at least. Don't wanna have to find out later that what you like is something that the 50w mod just can't handle. Of course you just might be fine with a 50w'er. For me I know I wouldn't be in 2 months or less.
 

gbalkam

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Thanks for all the help just got back from my local shop...ended up buying a istick 50w and a new kanger topbox mini with topfill and rba
That is a decent started kit. It also gives you a bit more room to play. You can actually build some dual coil set ups that run at less than 50 watts. (usually 42w or so). I agree with Lovemonkey3833 a 100+ watt box would have been better. Right now, I am vaping at 135w to 200w on the same build. (my old batteries sag a bit so 155 is the max, but the new ones handle the full 200w)
Either way, what you just bought is a nice kit. Just use steam-engine coil tool to build to the wattage you have. I have built a dual coil build on that kanger topbox mini rba. I will never do it again. LOL.. Let me tell you.. those were 2 very tiny coils. LOL.
 

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