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Vape Fan

_evil twin_
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I know you guys make your own coils but do any of you know a reliable producer of any of the other pre wrapped coils. Like titanium, nickel, and kanthal. I tried looking for kanthal pre wrapped coils but all I really found was unreliable eBay and amazon products and then suppliers that I don't know are good quality or reputable. I'll probably eventually start making my own coils but for now and future reference it'd be nice to know a good supplier if I needed it.
Good thinkin on not going to ebay, amazon, unless you really know the seller.
By wrapping the wire around a jig, you get that versatility. I think a 1/8" drill bit is 3.2mm but don't quote me.
For premade other than SS, check out Coilology and CoilART are a couple.
What not to get imo are the kits like Demon Killer, or even Coil Master's coil kit.

http://coilology.net/
http://www.coilart.net/handmade-coil

Here's another good place for wire. I don't know if they have premades.
https://www.lightningvapes.com/
 

Nomorebutts

Member For 1 Year
Good thinkin on not going to ebay, amazon, unless you really know the seller.
By wrapping the wire around a jig, you get that versatility. I think a 1/8" drill bit is 3.2mm but don't quote me.
For premade other than SS, check out Coilology and CoilART are a couple.
What not to get imo are the kits like Demon Killer, or even Coil Master's coil kit.

http://coilology.net/
http://www.coilart.net/handmade-coil

Here's another good place for wire. I don't know if they have premades.
https://www.lightningvapes.com/

Yea looks like I'm going to attempt making my own coils sooner then I thought lol. That .15 ohms just seems to low to me, looking to try to go between .25 - .35
 

Vape Fan

_evil twin_
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Yea looks like I'm going to attempt making my own coils sooner then I thought lol. That .15 ohms just seems to low to me, looking to try to go between .25 - .35
Well, it's easy. Hardest part is figuring out the ohm's it's gonna be and even that isn't hard. If using thier wire, you can use the chart at AVS to get close.
Also, this isn't as intimidating as it seams. http://www.steam-engine.org/wirewiz.html
Example:
If it were a dual core fused clapton-
Under "Wire Builder" select "Clapton".
Under "Clapton Wire" > "Core" , select "Parallel" then enter the wire type and wire size. There would be 2 in this scenario since it's a dual core wire. If there were 3 or more cores you would click on the + to add more cores.
The wrap at the bottom is the outer wrap that goes around all the cores. If it were 28gx2/36g The wrap would be a single 36g wire.

Once that is plugged in, you can adjust "Coil Setup" at the top left. 3mm id is pretty standard and is more than likely what the premade coils that come with your atties are. Probably dont want to go bigger than 3mm id to fit nicely without it possibly touching the chimney when you screw it on, but when you build with the included coils, you get a look at that. Probably not smaller than 2.5mm so you have enough wick, but again, you'll get a feel for these spaces on your tanks.
If you hover your mouse over "Wraps" it will show you that for coil leads pointing in the same direction, such as yours will be, use 1/2 wraps as your setting.

The number the wizard gives you for resistance may vary a little (.3?) when you install it, dry burn it, and check it on your meter, but it will be close enough. It will be a single coil resistance, so /2 for your dual.
 
Last edited:

Nomorebutts

Member For 1 Year
Well, it's easy. Hardest part is figuring out the ohm's it's gonna be and even that isn't hard. If using thier wire, you can use the chart at AVS to get close.
Also, this isn't as intimidating as it seams. http://www.steam-engine.org/wirewiz.html
Example:
If it were a dual core fused clapton-
Under "Wire Builder" select "Clapton".
Under "Clapton Wire" > "Core" , select "Parallel" then enter the wire type and wire size. There would be 2 in this scenario since it's a dual core wire. If there were 3 or more cores you would click on the + to add more cores.
The wrap at the bottom is the outer wrap that goes around all the cores. If it were 28gx2/36g The wrap would be a single 36g wire.

Once that is plugged in, you can adjust "Coil Setup" at the top left. 3mm id is pretty standard and is more than likely what the premade coils that come with your atties are. Probably dont want to go bigger than 3mm id to fit nicely without it possibly touching the chimney when you screw it on, but when you build with the included coils, you get a look at that. Probably not smaller than 2.5mm so you have enough wick, but again, you'll get a feel for these spaces on your tanks.
If you hover your mouse over "Wraps" it will show you that for coil leads pointing in the same direction, such as yours will be, use 1/2 wraps as your setting.

The number the wizard gives you for resistance may vary a little (.3?) when you install it, dry burn it, and check it on your meter, but it will be close enough. It will be a single coil resistance, so /2 for your dual.

Ahhh man, here I was just getting off work relaxing and having a beer and you gotta go and get me all excited lol.

@Vape Fan you and everybody else has been such a big help and I can't say thank you enough. Do you mind if I message you to ask you about wire size and calculations, maybe a few other things, when I can wrap my head around the info you've just gave me (couldn't sleep all night so have been up 24+ hrs). Don't want to be a bug though and I hope I'm not bothering you guys with my nonstop Q&A. I will ofc continue to do my own research, I just know there's going to be things I need explained in laymens terms.

P.S. I did hit a DTL tank the other night that my friend had. I definitely think it'll do the job
 

Vape Fan

_evil twin_
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Ahhh man, here I was just getting off work relaxing and having a beer and you gotta go and get me all excited lol.

@Vape Fan you and everybody else has been such a big help and I can't say thank you enough. Do you mind if I message you to ask you about wire size and calculations, maybe a few other things, when I can wrap my head around the info you've just gave me (couldn't sleep all night so have been up 24+ hrs). Don't want to be a bug though and I hope I'm not bothering you guys with my nonstop Q&A. I will ofc continue to do my own research, I just know there's going to be things I need explained in laymens terms.

P.S. I did hit a DTL tank the other night that my friend had. I definitely think it'll do the job
Better if you just ask here, or the appropriate sub forum. For example http://vapingunderground.com/threads/the-official-steam-engine-thread.389510/
There are many here that know way more than me and you wouldn't want to miss their input. I'm happy to do what I can, as is most all members :)
No question is a bad question or too "laymen", ever!

BTW, do you know what DTL atty your friend has? and what the resistance(ohms) were?
 

Nomorebutts

Member For 1 Year
Better if you just ask here, or the appropriate sub forum. For example http://vapingunderground.com/threads/the-official-steam-engine-thread.389510/
There are many here that know way more than me and you wouldn't want to miss their input. I'm happy to do what I can, as is most all members :)
No question is a bad question or too "laymen", ever!

BTW, do you know what DTL atty your friend has? and what the resistance(ohms) were?

Yea it was a Smok with a baby beast he bought from a vape shop lol
 

gbalkam

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Member For 4 Years
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I was watching a video of a guy making his own coils last night. Didn't seem that hard especially with a kit.

When you say I can buy rewrapped coils you mean they sell already made wrapped wire I don't have to wrap myself? That dles make it sound even easier.

So I can premake coils and carry them with me? Would i need to recheck the ohms again after i made them and lets say theyve been sitting a few days? Or once their made their good to go?

Do they last as long as premade coils? A friend last night I was talking to said that they don't last that long but he also doesn't make his own. So idk how accurate that info he gave me was.

I actually keep this https://www.fasttech.com/p/8014108 on hand at all times. For when I am lazy. lol. Its a flat ribbon wire, wrapped in 32ga wire.
once you make them, you are good to go. You calculate what your coil will be before you wrap it using http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html?

It depends on your juice. Sweet juice gunks up coils faster. But, you can also dry burn the coils a few times to degunk them. I change mine when I start to notice they start tasting a bit quirky.
 

Nomorebutts

Member For 1 Year
I actually keep this https://www.fasttech.com/p/8014108 on hand at all times. For when I am lazy. lol. Its a flat ribbon wire, wrapped in 32ga wire.
once you make them, you are good to go. You calculate what your coil will be before you wrap it using http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html?

It depends on your juice. Sweet juice gunks up coils faster. But, you can also dry burn the coils a few times to degunk them. I change mine when I start to notice they start tasting a bit quirky.

That Clapton kanthal wire you linked says for RBA.

That's another question I have does that matter what kind of wire to use for RBA or RTA? I haven't really researched RBA's or what the difference is. Mainly because everyone says RTA's are more convenient for when your out and about and the tank I bought is a RTA.

Another is I figure with a RTA I can still use one of the premade coils they offer in a emergency situation at work. Sometimes I'm really busy and I don't know if I'd be able to rewick the coil if I needed too or on a 15 min break. So I could just swap out to the premade coil until I can get to rewicking the RTA.

I really don't know if that's plausible or not though as I don't even have the tank yet but just a thought.
 

PoppaVic

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Wire is wire - just watch the material - and the gauge.

The issue with this is the SIZES - the resistance, the MASS - ramp-time, current-draw, etc. As a newbie, I'd only use solid, round wire - get yourself spools of 28 and 26awg: Kanthal and SS - and even some Ni80 if you lean that way. You might even want to get some 30awg for higher resistance/smaller spaces.

I'd never recommend any of the "complex" or "hybrid" wires to a newb - that comes after they can twiddle plain round wire and coils and are used to using http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html (or some similar app on their phone, whatever).

And, so far, I'd never, ever recommend visiting a B&M for their advice - most are beyond dumbass.
 

Vape Fan

_evil twin_
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That Clapton kanthal wire you linked says for RBA.

That's another question I have does that matter what kind of wire to use for RBA or RTA? I haven't really researched RBA's or what the difference is. Mainly because everyone says RTA's are more convenient for when your out and about and the tank I bought is a RTA.

Another is I figure with a RTA I can still use one of the premade coils they offer in a emergency situation at work. Sometimes I'm really busy and I don't know if I'd be able to rewick the coil if I needed too or on a 15 min break. So I could just swap out to the premade coil until I can get to rewicking the RTA.

I really don't know if that's plausible or not though as I don't even have the tank yet but just a thought.
What ^ he said.
All rebuildables all use the same type metals/coils. It's a matter of building to the resistance you want, as long as the finished coil will fit in the atty.
The wire linked you asked about is called Flapton. Flat(ribbon) wire with a wrap(clapton). So it's a claptoned ribbon wire. It's springy and harder to wrap, plus you'll get better flavor/vapor from a 2 or 3 core clapton where the cores wires are round instead of flat.

Round core clapton wire is easy to coil and with a little guidance for your target resistance, I feel you could be a leg up from starting with plain round wire - altho that's not a bad way to go.
 

Nomorebutts

Member For 1 Year
I think starting small with the easiest wire to wrap would be the way to go before I try to get ahead of myself. Wires cheap I can always get more.

Wire is wire - just watch the material - and the gauge.

The issue with this is the SIZES - the resistance, the MASS - ramp-time, current-draw, etc. As a newbie, I'd only use solid, round wire - get yourself spools of 28 and 26awg: Kanthal and SS - and even some Ni80 if you lean that way. You might even want to get some 30awg for higher resistance/smaller spaces.

I'd never recommend any of the "complex" or "hybrid" wires to a newb - that comes after they can twiddle plain round wire and coils and are used to using http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html (or some similar app on their phone, whatever).

And, so far, I'd never, ever recommend visiting a B&M for their advice - most are beyond dumbass.

Can I get a link to the 2 sizes you mentioned. That way I can cross reference everything. Still learning how to use steam engine and what all the different kinds of wire are.
 

Nomorebutts

Member For 1 Year
If after you use the included coils you still think you'll want .25 - .35, here’s a few options/examples. And a look at wire wizard. Didn’t include SS.
http://www.vandyvape.com/accessories/vape-wires/ >Clapton Wire
Ni80 Clapton Wire 26ga+35ga 10ft
View attachment 113311
Ni80 Clapton Wire 24ga+35ga 10ft
View attachment 113312
34K / 24N80 Single Core
View attachment 113313

It's not letting me purchase the wire on the link you did for candy vapes.

I'll look over the pictures from steam engine you provided and try to figure it all out.
 

Vape Fan

_evil twin_
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I think Vandy Vape only does wholesale. Online vendors carry their wire.
 

Nomorebutts

Member For 1 Year
Ok I found wire on lightning vapes. Just trying to understand the difference.

There the 2 numbers like

36k/26k

Wondering what the difference is between the 2 numbers.

Or like the ones vape fan said

26ga + 35ga
 

Vape Fan

_evil twin_
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Ok I found wire on lightning vapes. Just trying to understand the difference.
There the 2 numbers like
36k/26k
Wondering what the difference is between the 2 numbers.
Or like the ones vape fan said
26ga + 35ga
The bigger the number, the smaller the wire - per AWG/ American Wire Gauge.
The smaller number (bigger wire) is always a core wire.
The bigger number (smaller wire) is always the wrap.
K= Kanthal
ga = gauge

36k/26k = 26 gauge kanthal wrapped with 36 gauge kanthal
26+35 is = 26 wrapped with 35
 

Nomorebutts

Member For 1 Year
Ok so now I'm starting to kind of get it and get how to use the wire wizard.

So to be able to reach the ohms I'm looking to reach wire wizard says 20gauge.

Thinking about getting 20ga, 22ga and 24ga. That would would give me alot of room to go up around .3 - .8ohms I think with 5-7 wraps which I think is a ideal number of wraps to fit in most coils right?

Now I just gotta figure out how to use steam engine.
 

Nomorebutts

Member For 1 Year
Ok so now I'm starting to kind of get it and get how to use the wire wizard.

So to be able to reach the ohms I'm looking to reach wire wizard says 20gauge.

Thinking about getting 20ga, 22ga and 24ga. That would would give me alot of room to go up around .3 - .8ohms I think with 5-7 wraps which I think is a ideal number of wraps to fit in most coils right?

Now I just gotta figure out how to use steam engine.

Actually those wire sizes are wrong because I forgot to half the ohms because it's a dual coil.

Now I'm really getting it. Going to order a few different sizes and metal types of wire when I put in the numbers again.

Thanks a ton!
 

Vape Fan

_evil twin_
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Use 3mm for id, and the stock coils are 5.5 wraps around a jig and I think that's a good place to plan for. More wraps might be hard to install, and airflow/wicking is involved. Could for sure go a wrap less. These are just thoughts mind you. I've never built that atty.
 

Nomorebutts

Member For 1 Year
24, 26 and 28 seems like it'll get me what I'm looking for for kanthal and SS.

One more question about kanthal.

Steam engine lists 3 different kinds of kanthal.

Kanthal A1/AMP
Kanthal A/AE/AF
And kanthal D

What would be the one i shoukd use and how can I tell which it is when I'm ordering it
 

Vape Fan

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A1, and is it not on the description?

I use "Elite" in WW for SS
 

Nomorebutts

Member For 1 Year
A1, and is it not on the description?

I use "Elite" in WW for SS

It was listed I just bought 3 spools of wire.

I just found premade coils for a pack of 3 for the firelock tank i bought. There the highest they have in ohms at 2.6 so going to try those out until I get the hang of wrapping and wicking the RTA. Bought 4 of them 2 for me and 2 for the wife.

I've spent entirely to much on this vape setup for both of us but if it gets us to quit smoking it will be worth it. I estimated our cost per month of smoking cigarettes for both of us at $500. So if the vapes work, which I'm fully determined to make sure it does, the cost will be negated plus some in 1 month.

Really happy and excited and can't thank you guys enough. I would have never figured all the things out you guys shared with me by watching videos or reading up on Google about it. Due to shipping everything might not be here for a week or so but I'll update again later on after I've got everything dialed in.

Happy vapes!
 

MyMagicMist

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Venting when your battery heats up, expands and vents hot gas. Venting alone is easy to handle, just eject the batteries from the mod into a fire proof container. Toilet, or outside on the lawn, kitchen sink, bath tub.. metal bucket, will work.
Before a battery vents, it has to heat up, we say 100C for safety but it is closer to 130C. If your mod starts heating to where it is uncomfortable to hold, that is when you eject the batteries, before they vent.
The main issue is in the mod. Especially mechanical mods. If the mod does not have enough vent hole to allow gas to escape, it will blow up, Just like overfilling a balloon.

This missive here needs to be a sticky post, and placed out where many others can see it. I too have done the hot potato dance of getting a battery out of a mod before it vented. Fortunately, the mod in question was a CopperVape. It has vent holes in the battery cap. I could also lift the top of the mod, housing the firing mechanism, off and away from the battery leaving a full battery to air vent hole.

Did just that and quickly unscrewed the battery cap, dropped the battery out and took it swiftly outside to let it cool on its own course. I'm still not quite sure what, or how the battery starting to vent was caused.

I'm usually careful within reason to ensure everything is clean enough to stay safe. Have since kind of become OCD over ensuring stuff is nearly spotless. All I can figure is the battery cap had some fleck, speck of metal from wire or what have you. This in turn agitated the battery like swatting at a hornet's nest.

In any event your few paragraphs here nail venting spot on. Once the mod starts getting too hot to hold, get the battery/ies out of it as quickly and safely as you can. Don't wait for the volcano to erupt because the heat is the clear warning it's about to do that. The life you save might be your own.
 

Nomorebutts

Member For 1 Year
I got everything 2 days ago. Set everything up and haven't had a cigarette since. I haven't built any coils yet cause I'm still waiting on a ohm meter but that should be coming soon. I set the wife's up last night and she's going to start using it. I just wanted to say thank you again everyone for answering all the questions I had. I'd still be smoking cancer sticks without you guys!
 
i have a smok GX350 and i have it on 120 watts but it changes itself when its sitting on the table and it goes right up to 350 it just about kills me each time it does it
has anyone else had this problem and been able to fix it?
please help
 

MrMeowgi

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i have a smok GX350 and i have it on 120 watts but it changes itself when its sitting on the table and it goes right up to 350 it just about kills me each time it does it
has anyone else had this problem and been able to fix it?
please help
Sounds like the wattage up button may be getting sticky. Maybe a touch of alcohol on a qtip swirled around the button may loosen it up
 

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