just hit my lipo with the potentiometer set at 100 percent it comes in at 1568 watts! the build i have in is a 6 wrap staple staggared fused clapton (volcano wire) which comes in a .18 ohms. i didnt continuously hold down the fire button i pulsed it so the heat really wasnt too bad and yes i am in the safe parameters of my 4s lipo cell
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hit lipo at max voltage 16.8
- Thread starter mokeife
- Start date
DIY FancyLights
Member For 4 Years
16.8V into 0.18 Ohms would be 93 Amps! I seriously doubt you hit 1568 Watts and you batters probably sagged horribly and risk as well!
i havnt calculated it with sag yet but it doesnt sag much and yes i know its 93 amps this battery had a 99 amp continuous discharge
Just wait till Mooch finishes his lipo testing.
He has already indicated that some of them are doing Efest tricks and inflating the CDR rating a bunch.
DIY FancyLights
Member For 4 Years
Even if the batteries can actually handle 99A, at that type of current the wire & MOSFET's become VERY critical and will add significantly to the losses, reducing the actual current as well. I mean the recommended wiring for 90A is more then 3x 14 awg wire to be safe and prevent over heating. Then you have to look at the RDSon of the MOSFET's doing that switching to estimate what the losses will be through them as well as the heat being generated there. Not to mention if the battery rating is actually correct. I've seen battery packs rated for huge currents that only had 18awg comming out of the packs, which shows they really shouldn't be used for those currents.
Of course we don't have the full information as to how everything was put together, so we just have to assume it's not a safe setup..
Of course we don't have the full information as to how everything was put together, so we just have to assume it's not a safe setup..
Yes good point. If rated for 90 amps CDR why only 20-30 amp max wires coming out of it?
DIY FancyLights
Member For 4 Years
Remember, I was giving an example, and we don't know what type of wiring is coming out of his pack. Just trying to warn that specs sometimes doesn't mean that's how they should be used.
True but about all the lipos I have seen only have about 10 ga max output wires.
i dont know what gauge mine are but i only hit it for a few quick seconds pulsing the button and nothing got warm except the rda
Good for you then.
although why someone would even want to vape that way.....
just wanted to try it nothing more nothing less
DIY FancyLights
Member For 4 Years
Even 10awg is only rated for 55A.
This isn't just about heat, at high current you must take into account the voltage drop across everything, even including the wire. ANSI recommends 2awg wire for handling 94A! Even a fraction of a milliohm makes a difference when you are talking about that much current.
Everything must be taken into account for current like that ... the wire, soldering, how it's mounted etc. You could easily be loosing more in the circuit then your battery sag! That means you're well bellow 1500W and there are multiple potential points of failure you haven't talked about enough for use to identify. For example what MOSFET's and how many are you using?
This isn't just about heat, at high current you must take into account the voltage drop across everything, even including the wire. ANSI recommends 2awg wire for handling 94A! Even a fraction of a milliohm makes a difference when you are talking about that much current.
Everything must be taken into account for current like that ... the wire, soldering, how it's mounted etc. You could easily be loosing more in the circuit then your battery sag! That means you're well bellow 1500W and there are multiple potential points of failure you haven't talked about enough for use to identify. For example what MOSFET's and how many are you using?
DIY FancyLights
Member For 4 Years
At least that puts you closer to 8awg, which ANSI says is acceptable for 73A so your closer then I feared. That puts you at about 0.7mOhm/ft
i didnt notice anything getting hot
"As far as the mod is concerned. Two at 20% is no different than .2 at 16.8 V except for the fact that you're using the PWM more therefore the mod isn't the question the fact whether or not you build, wicking and atty (and face lol) can handle nearly 1500 W ......is" this is what the builder said now the battery is a different question but since it didnt feel warm at all i think itll handle it to a certain extent
whose spreading bullshit?
It is very possible to "hit" a build north of 1kW, even several kW.
It's NOT something you would want to vape. Unless you like sucking on a firecracker!
Only the shortest pulses are possible before something on the build reaches ignition temperature.
But dialed back they do make for some crazy instant hits.
And dialed back even further one can chain for hours before needing to charge the lipo.
Ampacity charts aren't going to work here.
The runs are very short.
Look at the cross sectional area of woofer tinsels and the power that gets put through them.
It's NOT something you would want to vape. Unless you like sucking on a firecracker!
Only the shortest pulses are possible before something on the build reaches ignition temperature.
But dialed back they do make for some crazy instant hits.
And dialed back even further one can chain for hours before needing to charge the lipo.
Ampacity charts aren't going to work here.
The runs are very short.
Look at the cross sectional area of woofer tinsels and the power that gets put through them.