I have ? about making a mech box mod from scratch..

[spencerpearson]

Hey guys and gals.. I have a few ? about building a complete mech mod. I was going to build a wood box out of some buckeye burl, and use romex wire to make my connections. I have 1/8 inch brass in 2 inch wide stick, should i use that? would that be better? and can i use a wood dowel rod to push the copper romix wire or brass strip to make contact? I would be using one 18650 ion rechargeable 3.7v 5300 mAh. I have two of these batteries so i can keep one fresh. And was going to use the romix wire to make the contact points for the battery. thanks for any advice or tips and tricks. I do plan on building reg box mods too in near future. and hope to have a few to donate to these pif box forum. or at least the parts.

 

[DevAuto]

I have not actually built a mech mod, but after reviewing your list of parts, the first thing that stands out is the battery. 18650, 5300 mAH? That does not sound like a battery I would trust. I would recommend reading up on the battery thread here ... http://vapingunderground.com/posts/416772/ ... There is a wealth of information about batteries, counterfeits, hype and over rated specifications. I have not seen a legitimate 18650 sized battery with more than ~3400 mAH.

The next thing that would trouble me is using wood to push the romex wire and make contact. Wood is flammable/combustible, and as you are making contact with the battery it is possible for the battery to arc, leaving the potential for the wood to ignite (it may only be a slim chance, but it is still a chance). I would recommend using something non-combustible/flammable to push the wire into place.

Again, I haven't built a mod, these are just thoughts I have from looking over your post.

Good luck with the build!

 

[Wabah58]

Some woodies (Wood box mod builders) coil up solid 14 ga wire to make battery contacts, keep in mind though they will get flat over time and not hold the battery in tight. Can be done though. As far as using solid copper to make a switch connection lot use copper sheets for that. My self I would go with a battery sled and a mosfet build, but im a metal guy. LOL.

We have a thread going on a lot of info on box building, although not many woodies in there, still a lot of info there.

http://vapingunderground.com/threads/basic-mosfet-wiring.2361/

 

[spencerpearson]

the battery is a GLT 18650 5300mAh and C rating at 14.20 or so. and great to hear the box building forum there. i will come check it out. and poke around. And i was going to use a piece of brass to make the contact point or copper. the wood was just for a reference.

 

[Zamazam]

Umm, no 18650 in existence has a 5300mAh rating. Welcome to the Chinese rewrap batteries.

 

[spencerpearson]

sorry waited so long. after 4hrs of fighting to get in the forum i got a password. And i knew there were 2500mAh 3.7v. but he had this posted for sale and that's what he says they are. but i don't know that they did or did not make that high of a mah rating. the first thing he said is him and his wife use them and they are not wrap's. they are heavier and the real ones were heavier. I don't know and only got stupider trying to read the battery safety and one is better then the other one stuff. Makes my head hurt. and they don't have a mosfet around here that i can put on to make a reg box. i got the plans from here and know you can use the 3034 mosfet and to220 type. but all i found was the 7805 series and i did not know if they would work. And i am getting tiered of ordering off the net every time i turn around.

 

[ConcreteBob]

Whatever you use to push the contacts together, make sure it is spring loaded and can pull the contact points apart again in case they micro-arc and stick.
As for your batteries, NO. Do not use those batteries to vape. They are ICR batteries, and are not rated for high discharge. YOU ABSOLUTELY HAVE TO USE IMR SAFE CHEMISTRY BATTERIES! Whomever sold those to you did you a disservice, and put you in danger. And if they are personally using those batteries to vape, they have no business selling batteries. They have been extremely lucky so far. Using that battery type in a vaping mod, especially a mech mod, is what blows people's fingers and faces off. Before you even start building your box mod, invest in some safe batteries. IMR high discharge safe chemistry ONLY. Sony, Samsung, LG, Efest, IMREN, MXJO, SubOhmCell, Vamped Vapor Cell, etc.
Please re-read the battery safety thread, it is vital information. These batteries contain a large amount of chemical energy that can cause very violent and dangerous failures when not used safely.
If you have trouble with the safety info, you are welcome to PM me, and I will answer any questions you have. And I'm sure pretty much any other member of this forum would be glad to, as well. But please don't use those GTL batteries. I don't want you to get hurt.

 

[spencerpearson]

thank you for your worry's. i don't want that ether. I guess i can keep them and use them in a no-vaping mod. I am just needing a battery to start vaping on a fuhatten. and i have the freak show and coiled up and cottoned so its killing me not to be able to use it. the bad thing is he sells it saying that it is a great box mod battery. and some of the best to use. i just wish people would sell what they know and not what they want. i dont sell any thing that i am not a 100% sure will work for the job. I was raised in the south were i live now and was taught by my great grand father how said your name and a hand shake mean some thing. and believe not of what you hear and only half of what you see.

 

[spencerpearson]

so what is a good all around battery then. some thing i can use in a mech mod and a reg mod.

 

[spencerpearson]

ok so the battery is a GTL 18650 is that any difference or the same thing

 

[Kraod]

If you're not sure your batery is IMR, don't use it on an unregulated mod. Any IMR battery should suit your needs, given it can support the current discharge needed by your resistance.

 

[spencerpearson]

so here the battey guy that sold to me just so any one else no's to stay away.

 

[ConcreteBob]

thank you for your worry's. i don't want that ether. I guess i can keep them and use them in a no-vaping mod. I am just needing a battery to start vaping on a fuhatten. and i have the freak show and coiled up and cottoned so its killing me not to be able to use it. the bad thing is he sells it saying that it is a great box mod battery. and some of the best to use. i just wish people would sell what they know and not what they want. i dont sell any thing that i am not a 100% sure will work for the job. I was raised in the south were i live now and was taught by my great grand father how said your name and a hand shake mean some thing. and believe not of what you hear and only half of what you see.

Those batteries are for flashlights and laser pointers. I wouldn't even keep them unless you have an application like that to use them for.

 

[ConcreteBob]

thank you for your worry's. i don't want that ether. I guess i can keep them and use them in a no-vaping mod. I am just needing a battery to start vaping on a fuhatten. and i have the freak show and coiled up and cottoned so its killing me not to be able to use it. the bad thing is he sells it saying that it is a great box mod battery. and some of the best to use. i just wish people would sell what they know and not what they want. i dont sell any thing that i am not a 100% sure will work for the job. I was raised in the south were i live now and was taught by my great grand father how said your name and a hand shake mean some thing. and believe not of what you hear and only half of what you see.

I think we might have had the same grandfather... Lol.

 

[spencerpearson]

should i canceal the order he already sent them on there way. or just wait and tell him there not what i need

 

[ConcreteBob]

ok so the battery is a GTL 18650 is that any difference or the same thing

The GTL, specifically, is an ICR low-discharge battery. Not usable for vaping. Invest in some LG HE4s, Samsung 25Rs or Sony VTC4s, and be safe.

 

[spencerpearson]

ok great then i will get a set of them and i guess resale this we they come in and use that money to buy some of those brands.

 

[Browncoat]

17 posts into this thread and no one else has stepped up to say it, so I guess I'll be the first:

Stop. Before you blow yourself up, or worse...start selling these things and blow someone else up. It's pretty clear that you have no idea what you're doing.

 

[ConcreteBob]

This is the GTL 5300 mAh 18650 ICR battery. It is rather hard to find technical specifics online for it, but the battery tests I've seen of it seem to indicate that it's a cheap rewrapped cell, and only actually about 1600 mAh to 2000 mAh, with an output capacity around 3A. It is also not a protected cell, so it won't suicide in the case of a short to prevent catastrophic failure (venting, fire, explosion).
But, I think the slogan on the label says far more than the technical data can about vaping with it...

 

[ConcreteBob]

17 posts into this thread and no one else has stepped up to say it, so I guess I'll be the first:

Stop. Before you blow yourself up, or worse...start selling these things and blow someone else up. It's pretty clear that you have no idea what you're doing.

What do you mean? I said exactly that several posts back. Granted, it wasn't in such terse wording, but yeah, I certainly said it.
And he never said anything about selling them. He said the guy that sold them to HIM said they were great to vape with, and he and his wife use them. And I said that the idiot vendor was both lucky for not having been hurt yet, and basically endangering people.

 

[spencerpearson]

i understand what he meant. he just thought i was the one selling the batteries. No i am not the battery seller. i am the sucker new to vaping that made a mistake and bought them cause i thought they would be safe and work.lol..

 

[vortex12]

I understand the want for full mechanical boxes but in my opinion its much safer to build a MOSFET protected box, I just finished one and it was stupid easy to do. And with this you can add a volt meter, fuses and any other gadgets you'd like

 

[ConcreteBob]

should i canceal the order he already sent them on there way. or just wait and tell him there not what i need

If you can cancel, then do so. If not, at least you aren't out much. Maybe you can return them.
I seriously wouldn't order your other, safe batteries from him, though. Personally, after selling me a line of crap like that I wouldn't give him another single penny of my business. There are plenty of reputable online and B&M retailers who know what they are talking about and actually care about you not hurting yourself.

 

[spencerpearson]

so now that the battery prob is clear. can i use solid brass strips and spring copper or brass to act as the switch? i have seen some with both. and wondered what the pro and cons were to using the two metals. and I would just go reg but cant get mosfets that will work here locally. radio shack is the only one here. and they only have a 7805 and one other 78 series and one that i did buy that is a LM317T adjustable volt reg. its V out adustable +1.2 to 37v, Cout limited to 1.5A , and 15watt 40V . and then i got a 3amp push button. and a assortment of carbon film resistors 1/4 watt form 1K up to 4.7meg.
so i am guessing i cant do anything with this parts too. i got a few types of spare 1uf caps. and some other stuff i got of odd and ends. and a B10K nob style pot as well

 

[spencerpearson]

what all does it intell to make the build. i have two plans saved in my phone that are easy.

I understand the want for full mechanical boxes but in my opinion its much safer to build a MOSFET protected box, I just finished one and it was stupid easy to do. And with this you can add a volt meter, fuses and any other gadgets you'd like[/QUOT

 

[ConcreteBob]

I'd use copper, if you already have it on hand. Simply because it is a better conductor and easier to bend, shape and cut. As far as the mosfet, you'll probably have to bite the bullet and buy online if you absolutely want it. But I've built boxes without them before. I have built with them as well. Without one, you need to make sure the switch is rated for about 50% more than you're ever going to push through it. If you are using a regular momentary contact switch. But I have also seen mods that just have a solid rod with the negative soldered to it that directly contacts the 510 connector when the button is depressed.

 

[ConcreteBob]

Are you building a parallel box, or series?

 

[spencerpearson]

it would be a single battery unless i need it to push the power to the rda. its 5 wraps with .22 ga wire. the ohm meter showed .26 on it. so i got to fig out what i would need to make it work. friend of mine help build the coils and has the same one and uses a penny mod clone and thats what we heated the coils up with to make them tighter. he has a 18650 in his. so i was going to make a mech box using one battery and that rda with a non-conductive botton i can push the springy copper or brass with to make direct contact to the neg on the 510 connector. if i did use two batteries i would do a parallel.

I was just thinking if i had to make a reg mod that the parts i listed is what i have at hand and if i could use any of it together or buy a few parts to make use with some of the parts i had laying around.

 

[ConcreteBob]

You can make a working mod out of that, mostly. Just make sure you keep everything well insulated, and have a switch that can handle the current load safely.

 

[spencerpearson]

i think i am going to use the 14ga copper wire i have. I soldiered it together and will use a switch or make one. and make the contacts for the battery. now i just got to get a battery that is safe to use and mock everything up to get the tray right. going to epoxy every thing in place and away we go.

 

[ConcreteBob]

i think i am going to use the 14ga copper wire i have. I soldiered it together and will use a switch or make one. and make the contacts for the battery. now i just got to get a battery that is safe to use and mock everything up to get the tray right. going to epoxy every thing in place and away we go.

Just remember, although most aren't, some epoxies are conductive. Just something to keep in mind.

 

[spencerpearson]

good to know i will keep that in mind and look on this one to make sure

 

[bkind]

Check out this video! This guy does really impressive work! I am starting my adventure into modding and have been watching tons of videos!

 

[spencerpearson]

yeah i have watched alot of his builds and listen to some of the things he talks about. i have not seen that one i just watched it. that is the type of stuff i want to build things that kinda catch your eye and make you go huh.. and i like to make all my stuff. so for him to make his switch and mod a 510 connection to his liken i really like that. thats why i want to build the mech i am making now. i am using the Altoids green can. but am looking at how i am going to make my mech switch. i understand the principle behind it just how to make it look good. and work right. thanks for posting that

 

[Robert B]

I enjoy his video's too. He's a pretty meticulous guy. You can tell by how clean his garage is!

 

[spencerpearson]

that can be a good thing. keeps you on your toes and you know its going to look nice.

 

[spencerpearson]

so i solider my 510 connection a few days ago and it came loss while making some adjustments. and found that the rubber inside the connector is bad. cut from being rough on it i guess. what is a good connector. i know fatdaddy is out there. but was wanting a few to choose from. if i had the tap to make the threads i would just make my own. huumm what is the thread size does any one know. i guess i could google it.

 

[vortex12]

so i solider my 510 connection a few days ago and it came loss while making some adjustments. and found that the rubber inside the connector is bad. cut from being rough on it i guess. what is a good connector. i know fatdaddy is out there. but was wanting a few to choose from. if i had the tap to make the threads i would just make my own. huumm what is the thread size does any one know. i guess i could google it.

Not sure on thread size but I can attest to fatdaddy being excellent

 

[spencerpearson]

i looked it up and the thread tap they say it is, is a 7mmx .5

 

[spencerpearson]

i still dont get how the fat daddy connector is connected seeing how it has the two piece brass on the inside. were to you solider the pos.

 

[MikeSully]

SOLDERING POSITIVE PIN- wick some solder on the positive wire, pre solder the hole in the bottom of the positive pin. Using something to hold the tiny pin (by itself) hold the tip of the soldering iron to the brass pin until the solder in the hole melts, plug your wire in and hold it while it solidifies. Sounds cool! I've build a few boxes I designed in Inventor and 3d printed at work. I'm a woodworker though and have been thinking of making a wood one soon. Be safe and post pics when you're done!

 

[spencerpearson]

i will dif do that thank you for the walk through on the connector. I have a few ideas i thinking of. but the connector i use is a cheap one that has a sold pin so i have to pull it out like the others but the rubber insulator is cheap and cut in half on me putting it back in in. so i am going to us those kind. there a little more but i can work with them better and there nicer.

 

[spencerpearson]

ok so i got the Altoids can box mod done. used 14ga copper wire soldiered with a 3amp push button and a penny soldiered to each one of the battery contacts. with one 18650 smart battery. not the ones i got in from the other guy.

 

[spencerpearson]

not to bad for the first one i ever made. and i put one peace plexi glass in the back and sides to keep every thing from touching

 

[ConcreteBob]

not to bad for the first one i ever made. and i put one peace plexi glass in the back and sides to keep every thing from touching

Which battery did you go with?

 

[ConcreteBob]

Oh, and definitely not bad looking for a first mod. But the negative lead would be a bit more resilient if you added a coil to the end of it. That straight wire will likely give you problems maintaining the pressure to ensure good contact. It's just not too springy of a material.

 

[spencerpearson]

i went with a sonny battery. and your right the straight wire does not do as great i had it coiled up and the it would not fit in there with it coiled so i had to cut it. i have a penny on the top and bottom for contacts. so i am going to put a light spring on the penny on bottom and make a real battery box to put in. that blue stuff is molding clay just to see were i was going to put every thing. its not conductive and gives me a idea were to put every thing.