I must preach the gospel of PWM to the masses.

[SirRichardRear]

I have not. I have powder coated things before but I am using a 'metallic' paint for this one and I thought I would get away without primer, I was wrong

LMAO well good luck on getting it right. the box your making sounds awesome

 

[Iliketurtles]

LMAO well good luck on getting it right. the box your making sounds awesome

It's beyond saving now though at least I like the color just have to take it all off and start again lol.

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[The Cromwell]

You can also PWM a single battery / parallel mod using low voltage 555 timer. I have one built but I can't get the paint right on it, keeps going flakey so it will be up for a strip and repaint over the next week or two. I don't rush them he he. As low ohm builds I use tend to play best at less than 3.7v I decided to make a parallel with PWM. Normal 555 use 4.5 -18v but the low voltage ones are ok with 2.5v -18v....good times.

Yep the LV 555's are nice for making a variable intensity led light that uses 1 LI battery.

 

[The Cromwell]

I have not. I have powder coated things before but I am using a 'metallic' paint for this one and I thought I would get away without primer, I was wrong

Al needs primer.
Al car bodies are a PITA to paint.

 

[The Cromwell]

Damn just put a STM with RBA on a mod.
Tasted horrible... Mod was set to 30W. My Rba builds max out at around 19W.

 

[MannyScoot]

How about a fireman's box....

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[Mikhail Naumov]

For some reason, VU unwatched the thread for me, so I went on thinking this ship sank and here people were asking questions and shit I didn't answer.

I apologize guys, I really thought the thread had died.

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

As far as NLPWM vs. iPWM, I truly think the iPWM wins. I hate the onboard actuator buttons on the NLPWM, and it's also an expensive board for what it is. Features wise they're about identical, only one adjusts via pot, one via buttons

Even in the 6S configuration, the iPWM can adjust down to around 0.5V. The NLPWM can hit around 0.1V. Both go up to maximum battery voltage. So power wise they're also not that different. The iPWM for me wins because it's $25 cheaper, has a diagnostics feature that tests the board for problems and overall is a bit easier to install in mods as it's a LOT smaller. They're both timerless RMS regulators for PWM, so accuracy is again, about the same.

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

I make 1550P, 1590A and 1590G PWM mods that can push over 1,000W (provided it's a 3S lipo powered mod) and fit in your pocket still, so yes there are.

 

[KingPin!]

came accross this handy table today while searching for bits ok it's Hammond but most other base thier sizes on these specs too Looks like 1590B will be my best bet to get dual 18650 in there

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

I just had a MOSFET literally explode (more like a pop, really) because the heat shrink tore on the bottom and ripped overtime, causing it to eventually short out on the box. This sent plastic and metal shards flying out of the box as the lid wasn't on. That was a first.

Oh well, it was one of my own personal mods and I built it two years ago.

Speaking of LV 555's, I ordered 200 of them from China two months back and that shit only just now cleared customs. Parallel 18350 mini-squonk (1.8ml) PWM with a LV 555 setup in a 1590LB enclosure. Gonna be a riot.

 

[Iliketurtles]

came accross this handy table today while searching for bits ok it's Hammond but most other base thier sizes on these specs too Looks like 1590B will be my best bet to get dual 18650 in there

View attachment 81933

There is loads of room for dual 18650 in a 1590B.

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[KingPin!]

There is loads of room for dual 18650 in a 1590B.

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Yeah wanted the A box but it's gonna be too tight trying to get everything in on my first go by the time I get the sled in there I'm gonna have a few mil space only
better to leave myself a bit of room for the 510, fire button and voltmeter kinda need one in between the two and still fit a 30mm 510 on

 

[KingPin!]

I just had a MOSFET literally explode (more like a pop, really) because the heat shrink tore on the bottom and ripped overtime, causing it to eventually short out on the box. This sent plastic and metal shards flying out of the box as the lid wasn't on. That was a first.

Oh well, it was one of my own personal mods and I built it two years ago.

Speaking of LV 555's, I ordered 200 of them from China two months back and that shit only just now cleared customs. Parallel 18350 mini-squonk (1.8ml) PWM with a LV 555 setup in a 1590LB enclosure. Gonna be a riot.

Bet that made you jump! How did the shrink tear?

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

Bet that made you jump! How did the shrink tear?

When I glued it down it was being stubborn so I had to do a lot of readjusting and tugging, glue must've caused it to pull at the shrink and cause a small tear which grew overtime from the FET being jostled around by general movement until it exposed the drain tab on the top (I think) and shorted out against the enclosure.

I've had FET's blow, but never this violently. I'm just glad my 5S lipo didn't send nearly 21V into dead short level low resistances for too long or I would've had an ever bigger issue.

This is why you use FET's, people. Had a short happened without one, my batteries and switch would've ate the full load on their own which would've spelled disaster as there is NO way you can remove a battery when smoke, sparks and the smell of death is rapidly flying out of the box.

 

[KingPin!]

Scary hmmm see this is why I wanted the IPWM seems a bit more friendly to noobs first out think I'll leave the 555 PWM to the pros

 

[MannyScoot]

These gboxes hammong just fuckin' fall over all the time

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[MannyScoot]

All my Hammond boxes fall over... My 1590g hexohm falls all the time specially with the Modfather and every thing metal sticks to it..... I don't know what magnets they are using, but they are strong as hell !!!

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[Carambrda]

My Surric X Vault Timeless Edition doesn't have time to fall over.

 

[MannyScoot]

My Surric X Vault Timeless Edition doesn't have time to fall over.

I have one of those ... The Little plus and minus bar and the blinking color light.... Gets in my nerves..... And she whines..... Ha....

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[Carambrda]

I have one of those ... The Little plus and minus bar and the blinking color light.... Gets in my nerves..... And she whines..... Ha....

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No, with the Timeless Edition X Vault there's only the analog potentiometer and the Mitec 12mm fire button (raised button)... no plus and minus bar, no light on the outside of the mod... just a small green light on the inside of the mod to indicate the mod is firing. The mod has a 25 amp fuse inside.

 

[MannyScoot]

No, with the Timeless Edition X Vault there's only the analog potentiometer and the Mitec 12mm fire button (raised button)... no plus and minus bar, no light on the outside of the mod... just a small green light on the inside of the mod to indicate the mod is firing. The mod has a 25 amp fuse inside.

View attachment 81962 View attachment 81963

Thanks.... This is a cool one !!!!!!!!

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[Carambrda]

Thanks.... This is a cool one !!!!!!!!

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Np... yeah... I bought the stainless steel finish one same day these had been officially released─same day I snuck that first photo in this thread in secret─the brass finish one I bought a couple weeks ago, and, just now, I bought an additional 27mm Mason Advocate to go with that. They are great setups!

 

[MannyScoot]

Np... yeah... I bought the stainless steel finish one same day these had been officially released─same day I snuck that first photo in this thread in secret─the brass finish one I bought a couple weeks ago, and, just now, I bought an additional 27mm Mason Advocate to go with that. They are great setups!

I also have a problem and that my 30mm Modfather pushes the led color changing light into the mod.... So 25mm is the max......

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[KingPin!]

No, with the Timeless Edition X Vault there's only the analog potentiometer and the Mitec 12mm fire button (raised button)... no plus and minus bar, no light on the outside of the mod... just a small green light on the inside of the mod to indicate the mod is firing. The mod has a 25 amp fuse inside.

View attachment 81962 View attachment 81963

Are those front screws superficial or do you have to undo them every time you want to change your batteries?

 

[MannyScoot]

Are those front screws superficial or do you have to undo them every time you want to change your batteries?

They are to change the X to different Disco colors.......The door uses magnets

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[KingPin!]

They are to change the X to different Disco colors.......The door uses magnets

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Ahh ok gonna look it up great looking mod for sure

 

[KingPin!]

Christ it's more expensive than the hexohm V3! They have thier own proprietary chip in it as well though can't find any details on it nice looking mods though

 

[MannyScoot]

Christ it's more expensive than the hexohm V3! They have thier own proprietary chip in it as well though can't find any details on it nice looking mods though

They hit good.... But you do hear the whinny board... Mine does.... And it's a (2) 18650...... To get the most out of a pwm you have to get the voltage to a full 11 to 16 volts.... That's why they stepped up to Lipos....

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[KingPin!]

They hit good.... But you do hear the whinny board... Mine does.... And it's a (2) 18650...... To get the most out of a pwm you have to get the voltage to a full 11 to 16 volts.... That's why they stepped up to Lipos....

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11 to 16v manny Christ almighty what kind of iron lungs do you for that ? Can't imagine I'm gonna push it to the full 6v let alone got above that lol

 

[Carambrda]

I also have a problem and that my 30mm Modfather pushes the led color changing light into the mod.... So 25mm is the max......

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GrimmGreen in his video review of the Surric X also complained about the light shining in his face each time when he tried to vape on the mod so yeah... annoying stuff. I don't own a macro lens, but just now managed to make a good close up photo of how my 27mm Mason Advocate is sitting on top of my Timeless Edition:



EDIT: correction... changed "regular version X Vault" to "Surric X"

 

[Carambrda]

They are to change the X to different Disco colors.......The door uses magnets

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With the Timeless Edition the X is either stainless steel, copper, or brass (depending on what color box you pick).

 

[Carambrda]

Christ it's more expensive than the hexohm V3! They have thier own proprietary chip in it as well though can't find any details on it nice looking mods though

It's a 200 watts one, and I think the minimum is .15 ohms same as the regular old version X Vault. With a .28 dual coil alien build of 7 wraps 3.5mm 28/36 Ni80, I don't hear the buzzing sound from the board... and it's a pretty strong vape... using VTC5A batteries like always. When they're fresh off the charger I have to turn the potentiometer down to somewhere below 60 percent for a medium-warm cloudy flavorful vape, and I cannot take it up to a full 100 percent before it's almost time to recharge the batteries or else I scorch my cotton wick. There's no volt reader inside the mod, but you don't have to take the batteries out to be able to measure their volts. To make those measurements I use a seperate device called a multimeter.

 

[MannyScoot]

Surric X

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[Mikhail Naumov]

Got a some PWM mods finished up this week, posted pictures in the iPWM vendor thread in my signature if anyone wants to see.

 

[Carambrda]

Surric X

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[Mikhail Naumov]

That is a SEXY mod. I would love to watch the guy who made it work, though I'm sure once he perfected the prototype, machines built the rest.

 

[jodi3moons]

Ok guys, I need some help. I ordered a 4x 18650 PWM mod, and asked for it to be series/parallel - that is, running with a total voltage of 8.4v. However, when I got the mod in the mail today, I set it up and the voltmeter read 16.6v O.O. Now, I'm completely unsure of what to do. I don't know how PWM behaves well enough, so I have a couple questions:

What is the minimum safe resistance for 16.6v? The website said .3ohms, but if I calculate correctly that puts the power at over 800 watts. Surely that isn't safe?

How does amp load work on 4 batteries in series? The amp load for a .3ohm build was something like 48amps - does that mean my 30amp batteries (VTC 4's) will get friend if I fire this thing, or does have multiple batteries increase the load they can take?

Does turning down the potentiometer make it safe to fire a .3ohm build at 16.6v? Like, if I set it to 20%, will it be effectively firing at 3.32v? I ask because I know PWM fires at full voltage rapidly, so I'm not sure if it should be treated as 16.6v total.

And, finally, if anybody has advice on what I should run on this beast, that would be awesome. I think it's great and want to run it of course, but I don't want to ruin this beautiful face while doing so. Sorry for being longwinded, and thanks for whatever help you can give.

 

[MannyScoot]

It sounds like it's properly working

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[MannyScoot]

You can put a .03 ohm build on there..... Just not at 16 volts... Well you can if you want to get throat fucked by Satan.....

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[MannyScoot]

Just use the potentiometer.... And adjust until you enjoy the throat fuck..... Then you found your pleasure point......

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[KingPin!]

 

[jodi3moons]

Haha ok cool, I was worried I was sticking a block of C4 to my face. Thanks guys

 

[jodi3moons]

Got the modfather with a .34ohm build crankin with the pot at 20%...this thing is dope. Shaped like an actual brick tho, and twice as heavy XD

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

Parallel series with four batteries should be 8.4V.. not 16.8V. You need to contact the modder and request a refund or a fix. It should be two sets of series paralleled, not four batteries bridged on a sled for series. A 2S2P lipo would also work.

You CAN turn the pot down, and if it's an RMS board like a Big Al or NLPWM, it can be turned down to almost 0V. If NOT RMS, you'll have a lowest power setting of around 10V. Which is way too much for most people.

Don't put a .03 build on it either. Regardless of what your batteries can handle (and 18650's can't handle diddly shit amperage wise) things like connectors and the boards themselves tend to have a 45-60A limit. So just because (if it can) your battery can push a high amperage doesn't mean you should run the mod balls to the wall.

If the board can RMS your power, then I'd keep it since you can adjust down to damned near 0V. If not, I think you'll find your mod to be overpowered.

 

[Mattp169]

Damn it manny TFF
To all those reading turning the pot is not the same as adjusting wattages.
While I know this is technically true. it works out to feel the same when you vape if you treat it like adjusting wattage
I can take my tank with a .6 ohm coil and put it on an IPV watt and set it to 50 watts then
put the same tank and coil on my PWM with full charge at 50 on the pot and it feels about the same. Usually at full charge I go just below 50 and when its low I go a bit higher
why
well
my pwm mod at full charge is 8.4W and 40amps
well a .6 ohm coil draws 14 amps
so at full charge of 8.4 volts will make that 117ish watts
while the batteries on a low charge of 6v make sit be about 84 ws
SO 50% of either of those is ABOUT 50watts

Now what I just explained is NOT how PWM really works
But the cycling makes it feel that way

SO about the whole 16.6 V mod above
a .3 ohm coil is going to draw about 55.3 amps SO if your batteries can handle that there is no problem there If you are using nice 20amp batteries and everything in your mopd is meantto take that type of amperage and power. if you are only using 10 amp batteries then you may have an issue
so at full power that is going to feel like 919 watts
So manny is correct be sure to tell the devil please and thank you
so start the pot out at 1 and work your way up
at about 10 your around what feels like 92 watts

Now if you are using higher ohm coils
say a .6ohm
you are only drawing about 28amps which is much safer on any 4 batteries
and at 20 on the pot you are at what feels like 92 watts

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

PWM works by time firing the maximum battery voltage at a controlled rate, with the pot controlled how often the power is switched on. This is great for killing ramp up at lower powers, but when you adjust the pot, he's right. It's not like dialing down wattage.

 

[jodi3moons]

Parallel series with four batteries should be 8.4V.. not 16.8V. You need to contact the modder and request a refund or a fix. It should be two sets of series paralleled, not four batteries bridged on a sled for series. A 2S2P lipo would also work.

You CAN turn the pot down, and if it's an RMS board like a Big Al or NLPWM, it can be turned down to almost 0V. If NOT RMS, you'll have a lowest power setting of around 10V. Which is way too much for most people.

Don't put a .03 build on it either. Regardless of what your batteries can handle (and 18650's can't handle diddly shit amperage wise) things like connectors and the boards themselves tend to have a 45-60A limit. So just because (if it can) your battery can push a high amperage doesn't mean you should run the mod balls to the wall.

If the board can RMS your power, then I'd keep it since you can adjust down to damned near 0V. If not, I think you'll find your mod to be overpowered.

Oh yeah its .34 NOT .03, I'm not trying to die. Thanks for the reply, I figured there was an issue when I saw the voltage. I may request a fix, but I might just explore the options a box like this has and see if the pros outweigh the cons. It's definitely a unique mod in terms of raw power, so maybe I can formulate some kinda funky setup that will utilize it to its fullest potential. If you've got any suggestions I'd love to hear them (maybe get the series deck for the Modfather and make some big ol' high resistance coils?)

 

[jodi3moons]

Damn it manny TFF
To all those reading turning the pot is not the same as adjusting wattages.
While I know this is technically true. it works out to feel the same when you vape if you treat it like adjusting wattage
I can take my tank with a .6 ohm coil and put it on an IPV watt and set it to 50 watts then
put the same tank and coil on my PWM with full charge at 50 on the pot and it feels about the same. Usually at full charge I go just below 50 and when its low I go a bit higher
why
well
my pwm mod at full charge is 8.4W and 40amps
well a .6 ohm coil draws 14 amps
so at full charge of 8.4 volts will make that 117ish watts
while the batteries on a low charge of 6v make sit be about 84 ws
SO 50% of either of those is ABOUT 50watts

Now what I just explained is NOT how PWM really works
But the cycling makes it feel that way

SO about the whole 16.6 V mod above
a .3 ohm coil is going to draw about 55.3 amps SO if your batteries can handle that there is no problem there If you are using nice 20amp batteries and everything in your mopd is meantto take that type of amperage and power. if you are only using 10 amp batteries then you may have an issue
so at full power that is going to feel like 919 watts
So manny is correct be sure to tell the devil please and thank you
so start the pot out at 1 and work your way up
at about 10 your around what feels like 92 watts

Now if you are using higher ohm coils
say a .6ohm
you are only drawing about 28amps which is much safer on any 4 batteries
and at 20 on the pot you are at what feels like 92 watts

Thanks for the reply. I have it set to about 20 right now, seems fine. So, if I read you correctly, with a series setup I should add up the max amp rating of each battery? For instance, if each one can handle 20 amps, then all 4 together can handle 80 amps? Sorry for the scrub questions, just don't wanna blow myself up haha.

 

[Carambrda]

Thanks for the reply. I have it set to about 20 right now, seems fine. So, if I read you correctly, with a series setup I should add up the max amp rating of each battery? For instance, if each one can handle 20 amps, then all 4 together can handle 80 amps? Sorry for the scrub questions, just don't wanna blow myself up haha.

No, in a series configuration the volts add up, but not the amps. For the amps to add up you need it to be parallel so if two batteries are in series to give you an "8.4 volts pair of batteries" then if you have two of these pairs you can connect these pairs in parallel to get more amps, BUT... be advised you have to account for a 15 percent safety margin. It means two times 20 amps equals 40 amps, minus 15 percent equals only 34 amps instead of 40 amps. The weakest battery in the pack receives the highest load, or current draw so that's why... (and also because the resistances of the contacts between the batteries are slightly different from eachother).