Yeah but a good pwm with good components is around $220 without a battery and charger..... You have to plan on $400 for a top quality set up......
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- Thread starter Mikhail Naumov
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Pitchki Materino..... It's not hard to comprehend.........
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the hexohm V3 is NOT REGULATED it has some features of a regulated, but I am pretty sure you put a .05 ohm build on it...IT WILL FIRE even though you shouldnt
I maybe mistaken if it uses a PWM chipset. I swear I remember seeing that on their website when it first came out months and months ago.
Either way 190 is way over priced for what it is. And I love the people trying to sell used ones for $140-$160.
The xohm for 150 is a true pwm device with a voltmeter for at least the battery voltage which is all I need it for. I care less what the atty is truly getting, Just need a battery meter basically so I know if I leave the house should i change batteries first.
The only Hexohm V3 clones i see with the LED have designs like a skull guy, a woman a santa etc. And I personally dont like the looks of them
I maybe mistaken if it uses a PWM chipset. I swear I remember seeing that on their website when it first came out months and months ago.
Either way 190 is way over priced for what it is. And I love the people trying to sell used ones for $140-$160.
The xohm for 150 is a true pwm device with a voltmeter for at least the battery voltage which is all I need it for. I care less what the atty is truly getting, Just need a battery meter basically so I know if I leave the house should i change batteries first.
The only Hexohm V3 clones i see with the LED have designs like a skull guy, a woman a santa etc. And I personally dont like the looks of them
Mikhail Naumov
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Regulated and unregulated have nothing to do with what resistances it will fire. Unregulated means the battery power is flowing directly from the batteries to the load (atomizer) with nothing happening. Regulation is when between point A (the batteries) and B (the atomizer) the voltage is bucked, boosted, pulsed or any number or things. Regulation = Something is regulating the current, and the Hex Ohm V3 is 100% regulated.
A real hexohm kicks ass, is a we'll build box.... That's why you pay the price and they are well established.... So they do warranty and stand behind their products..... They really do !!!!! My V2 was beat to hell..... And it would work when she wanted.....
I sent it in......
Got it back with a v2.1 battery tray and built in my same beat up old box, and they resoldered the 510 and firing pin...... But now she functions like a 1972 Cadillac with a Chevy 350 lingenfelder twin turbo......
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Mikhail Naumov
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Fuck Chevrolet 350's, I ran one in my 88 Camaro track car for six years and I had nothing but problem after problem out of that motor. I changed to a big block later on, went from a 2-stage nite kit on a small block to a supercharged 454.
..Two months later I wrecked it. But BY DAMN it was a problem free two months.
Yeah 350 it's not a power house.... My 351 Cleveland in my old Pantera was......
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SirRichardRear
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It's literally a clone of the craving vapor chip. every component even the logos and all.
this guy did a write up http://daisychainvaper.com/hexohm-3-0-authentic-vs-clone/
but it's a little shilly to me or he had a different clone. the one i got (you can see in my video looks clean and has the connectors screwed in not soldered just like the authentic. The clone he got is way different then the one I did. even the labeling on the chip so it could be a worse version of a clone or something else.
You can buy a good one for under 200 bucks easily. actually under 150. If you wanted to make it yourself under 100. the parts from big al are about 40-50 bucks total for everything needed. then you go the box (alpinetech) for about 20. throw in another 40 for laser engraving and you are around 100 for an enrgaved one or 60ish for a basic one. Even Mikail himself is selling them for under 150 in this thread
It's not PWM I haven't tried a resistance that low but quite a few regulated mods will fire down to .05
You can see in the results (since I did review it and test it and all)
where the voltage output changes at 100 setting when resistance goes down. it's the protections and limits kicking in just like any regulated mod. If it was unregulated that wouldn't happen
On top of that a PWM looks like this on an oscilloscope
the hexohm V3 looked like this
As far as the designs go, You can get a clone that looks exactly the same as the authentic , it just won't have a voltmeter (which the authentic doesn't either)
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very well said
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It's literally a clone of the craving vapor chip. every component even the logos and all.
this guy did a write up http://daisychainvaper.com/hexohm-3-0-authentic-vs-clone/
but it's a little shilly to me or he had a different clone. the one i got (you can see in my video looks clean and has the connectors screwed in not soldered just like the authentic. The clone he got is way different then the one I did. even the labeling on the chip so it could be a worse version of a clone or something else.
You can buy a good one for under 200 bucks easily. actually under 150. If you wanted to make it yourself under 100. the parts from big al are about 40-50 bucks total for everything needed. then you go the box (alpinetech) for about 20. throw in another 40 for laser engraving and you are around 100 for an enrgaved one or 60ish for a basic one. Even Mikail himself is selling them for under 150 in this thread
It's not PWM I haven't tried a resistance that low but quite a few regulated mods will fire down to .05
You can see in the results (since I did review it and test it and all)
where the voltage output changes at 100 setting when resistance goes down. it's the protections and limits kicking in just like any regulated mod. If it was unregulated that wouldn't happen
On top of that a PWM looks like this on an oscilloscope
the hexohm V3 looked like this
As far as the designs go, You can get a clone that looks exactly the same as the authentic , it just won't have a voltmeter (which the authentic doesn't either)
Thank you for posting this. It taught ME nothing, but this kind of shit could help SO many other people, I love seeing real information being spread on vaping forums. Too much electronics misinformation in the vaping community.
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No Problem
keep doing what your doing. it's a very good thread for info and the lack of info on PWM mods on this and most forums is odd for sure. we can always use good info on them
ok to me a regulated mod meant all kinds safety features including not firing when it was unsafe for the battery. but i give technically if its got something in it its regulated in some way. I also didnt realize the v3 had the feature of not firing at full power even at 100
But they claim on the website its a 30amp board
but some of your numbers are drawing over 30 amps
But they claim on the website its a 30amp board
but some of your numbers are drawing over 30 amps
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it's perfectly safe to fire a .05 ohm build at 150 watts on a regulated dual battery mod with good 20 amp batteries. it's still only going to be a 20 amp draw from the batteries. no different then a .15 ohm build at 150 watts. The issue with the low ohm builds on regulated mods is most of them cut off at about 35 amp outputs (for dual mods) so it would only be able to fire around 61 watts max because the output amp limit kicks in. that's why there is no need for it. for most dual battery regulated mods the best performance often comes between a .14 and .22 ohm resistance.
what manufactures claim for specs aren't always true, hence the whole point of me doing testing in reviews. Some undersell their specs for safety reasons some oversell their specs to try and get sales. For instance samsung rates the 30q at 15 amps CDR while mooch rates it at 20. Another example is joyetech rates the evic primo and mos tof their dual mods at 50 amps when it's really around 36. the chip can do 50 in some configs. it does 45 in triple battery (tested with the hedron) and 54 with the RX300 (quad battery) and of course we all remember the sig fuchai 213 and fuchai 213 plus that couldn't hit 160 watts let along the 213/223 it claimed
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KingPin!
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Thanks feel much happier about how to treat the hexohm now
So back to PWM proper ..... why would you ever want a 6s lipo? What benefit does it bring?
Other than how manny put it something along the lines of ...oh yeah "getting throat fucked by Satan" lmao
So back to PWM proper ..... why would you ever want a 6s lipo? What benefit does it bring?
Other than how manny put it something along the lines of ...oh yeah "getting throat fucked by Satan" lmao
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Expanding on what Anthony said, some boards like the DNA can have up to 55A I believe on the output but only 35A on the input. Since the DNA200/250 is a DC-DC buck converter, what this translates to is the board can output more amps than it's actually drawing off the batteries. Meaning the batteries may only be drained at around 20-25A, but your build calculations could say the amp draw is around 45-50A. This is because when you buck the voltage down, you can do all kinds of things like that. If you have 12.6V input and are only outputting 6.3V, your calculations say whatever build you have is pushing 50A. The reality is, since the voltage applied has been cut in half, it's only draining half the amperage. So, a 50A build output is only drawing 25A.
This is getting convoluted, I'm trying to keep it as layman as I can but it's getting harder so I'll leave it here. What I'm saying is, buck DC-DC converters (NOT PWM) can output more amps than they actually draw. Doing ohm's law calculations on regulated mods is a bitch because of variables like this, but once you learn it all, it does get easier. Boost converters do the opposite of this, output LESS amps than they draw.
The ability to vape 1.5 ohm builds at 300W and have a battery life that spans the whole week. Outside of that, basically nothing. The only 6S lipo mod I built had to be seated in a fucking Hammond 1590J, a box the size of an encyclopedia.
You can push a lot of horsepower out of a 350 for not a lot of investment, the problems are due to the bang for buck nature of the 350 crate motors you see people use most of the time, the parts go out ALL the time. This is just the nature of budget things, not really a problem with the motor itself.
This is getting convoluted, I'm trying to keep it as layman as I can but it's getting harder so I'll leave it here. What I'm saying is, buck DC-DC converters (NOT PWM) can output more amps than they actually draw. Doing ohm's law calculations on regulated mods is a bitch because of variables like this, but once you learn it all, it does get easier. Boost converters do the opposite of this, output LESS amps than they draw.
The ability to vape 1.5 ohm builds at 300W and have a battery life that spans the whole week. Outside of that, basically nothing. The only 6S lipo mod I built had to be seated in a fucking Hammond 1590J, a box the size of an encyclopedia.
You can push a lot of horsepower out of a 350 for not a lot of investment, the problems are due to the bang for buck nature of the 350 crate motors you see people use most of the time, the parts go out ALL the time. This is just the nature of budget things, not really a problem with the motor itself.
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Mikhail Naumov
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I would like to formally apologize to you right here and now for getting into that spat with you over the Sigelei. I sat down and properly tested TWO of each version of the 213, all three versions, six mods total. The newest one with the colored screen did the WORST actually, capping for me at around 157W.
The oldest didn't do much better, capping at 163W. Then the one in the middle, the Fuchai 213, it got up to 168W. Point being, FAR as hell away from that 213/223 number.
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LMAO no need to apologize man, but nice to see you got similar results as I did.
As for why PWM isn't yuugely popular, the chinese are all about adding more features...touch screens....a thousand settings...onboard coffee machines. PWM just isn't gonna be their thing...too simple.
Ok cool man thanks. Maybe something is wrong with my NC2. When I say I can feel it, I'm feeling it in the vapor as I'm inhaling which is weird. It only happens in regulated mode so that's what got me to looking. I'm sure it's not pwm due to the price. It's a cheap mod...but I love it! Thanks for the reply. There's great info here
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PWM isn't expensive to apply in mods, quite the opposite actually. The iPWM boards I use that are decked out with features cost only $17 with the potentiometer included. A straight up wired in 555 setup is even cheaper depending on where you get the parts. I just doubt they used it in the NC II.
I thought the Hex Ohm's button was well-liked? I always thout it looked cool, but that may be partially because it reminds me of the Sanwa buttons used on fighting sticks haha
It's because not that many vapers still buy PWM mods. The vast majority are tootle puffers who tend to be somewhat of a cheapskate and or who haven't the slightest clue what's out there so when they see my cloud it immediately catches them hugely by surprise, and about half of these people can't give up smoking usually BECAUSE they are tootle puffers who either hate the whole idea of building their own coils and Cotton Bacon or they simply don't know any better so then they rather end up abandoning everything vape related.
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It's a really, REALLY cheap waterproof, horn style 12mm switch. I can literally buy 50 of them for less than $10, so that may be why the button is being bashed.
In all reality, all a firing switch is, is two mechanical points of contact that serve to complete a circuit, so EVEN IF a switch is cheap, the very nature of the parts used means that doesn't really matter. Provided you aren't blowing the switch out with some ungodly high amp load because MOSFETs are too complicated for you, there's no harm in using cheap switches. The silver tactical switch you see on SO, SO many mods including retail AND custom mods alike is around 10 cents per switch retail, even less wholesale.
In all reality, all a firing switch is, is two mechanical points of contact that serve to complete a circuit, so EVEN IF a switch is cheap, the very nature of the parts used means that doesn't really matter. Provided you aren't blowing the switch out with some ungodly high amp load because MOSFETs are too complicated for you, there's no harm in using cheap switches. The silver tactical switch you see on SO, SO many mods including retail AND custom mods alike is around 10 cents per switch retail, even less wholesale.
The button takes abuse...... But if it works why not .... Use it..... I haven't had bad luck with Mitec or that switch in the hexohm either .... Can't kill that horn switch....
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I have had bad luck with the Mitec on my first Surric. But it didn't stop me from buying yet another Surric so currently awaiting the first one to arrive back from repair... owning two Surrics is always better than owning only one Surric anyway.
PWM is very efficient.
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Efficiency ratings vary, a good RMS board with properly soldered connections can have an efficiency rate north of 90%, while some more standard PWM cicuits drop around the 75-85% mark. As long as they've been properly made and the PWM circuit isn't made with garbage parts.
It is nice looking.....I have had bad luck with the Mitec on my first Surric. But it didn't stop me from buying yet another Surric so currently awaiting the first one to arrive back from repair... owning two Surrics is always better than owning only one Surric anyway.
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Those mods with the big ass X on them are DC-DC, aren't they? I didn't think they were PWM.
It is, isn't it?It is nice looking.....
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Has anyone ever bought a JMODZ device before? Are they any good?
Trying to find an enclosure over my side of the pond is proving to be really difficult, more so with a precut voltmeter window!
Can source everything else just not that!
Trying to find an enclosure over my side of the pond is proving to be really difficult, more so with a precut voltmeter window!
Can source everything else just not that!
755??
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Opps please disregard, thought was texting,instead it posted here lol
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It functions like a pwm... I do like....... AC/DC.......It is, isn't it?
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I would have to disagree,I just ordered everything(but the Lipo,as I already have 20 or more of them,I fly RC helicopters,and planes) yesterday for my pwm build. Using the big Al's ipwm board, volt meter, potentiometer,and bezel's..... Alpinetech's cnc 1590b box,12mm mitec switch,and 30mm v2 varitube 510 for a total of 70$ shipped.
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Right now I'm vaping it with a dual coil 28/36 Ni80 7 wraps 3.5mm ID alien build in my 27mm Mason Advocate RDA. It ohms out at .28 so when I've maxed out the potentiometer that's when I know my VTC5As are getting close to dropping below 3.4 volts, which is just ideal if you want to get a decent battery life out of a hard hitting fairly warm super cloudy yet flavorful vape.
You can buy everything to build yourself..... And a good recommendation for a lipo is a Maxamps 2250 or a Maxamps 2800..... $80 and $120 only for the Lipo... Plus the parts you recommend is good ... If you build it yourself with a vaping tested lipo...
A cheap lipo and the parts you talk about, you are looking at $150.00 in parts alone if you build it....
Noone will build a lipo and ship it for you for under $120.00
A normal vaper doesn't have the shit you have..... They have to buy everything and parts and Lipo and charger and a fire bag..... If you can buy all the above mentioned stuff and build it yourself more power to you......
Most Vapers can't build a coil..... Build your own Pwm....... Ha....... Have fun......
Have you looked anywhere on eBay, on madmodder, everywhere you look a good Pwm or a DNA 250 lipo mod with battery only is $375.00 plus charger and fire bag......
You can't buy a $400 mod for $100 it ain't happening.....
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Manny I apologize,I thought you were talking DIY lol. I agree you won't find a quality mod(PWM,DNA,SX) for less than 200ish(mod only). From what I hear the Jmodz pwm is a quality mod with alot of custom options,maxed out with all the goodies it's around 210$(mod only). The op of this thread has a entire line of box mods, PWM'S, DNA'S, as well as the SX550(SX's are my favorite regulated chipset) looks to be of extremely good quality,at unbelievable pricing! If I'm not mistaking they include a Lipo with the Lipo option(SCORE!) http://vapingunderground.com/index.php?threads/324073/
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It's Cool, I started talking about ipwm because of Micha Naumov .... The guy is offering a top quality box at affordable prices, and people ask him if that's the lowest he can go on the price......
I'm seeing Mad Modder boxes going for $400 and $450 and on eBay and other places an empty no lipo no nothing for $200 up to $300.... People think the guy sits down and in 30 minutes he makes an ipwm mod ....
It's upsetting how people want a $400 mod for $100 bucks without researching how much the parts cost and labor involved, ordering parts and parts and shit all over the country....
He needs money to buy 20 boxes, and 20 Varitube s and cables and connectors and shit........
You think he wants to order (1) 510 to make some douchebag a mod for $80
People need common sense and be willing to pay to have a TOP mod box, not to buy some shit that will last you 30 days !!!!!
Damb.........
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SirRichardRear
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Very well said. I agree his pricing is pretty dam good as well
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Nwpwm.....
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With a lipo you can more quickly burn down the house is all.
Here is what happens when the dog is chewing on a 18650 cell.... This happened here in Phoenix Arizona...
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