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i wanna be safe...
- Thread starter cordar
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A .2 coil with a battery at 4 volts would be 20 amps and the VTC5 is spec'd at 30 amp max continuous discharge.
I almost wrote "if you're going that low but have to ask...." But then I thought better of it. Nitro is always saying he uses vtc3 for cloud chasing, so.. I'd say with any battery to first be confident it's authentic or at least has the stated specs before pushing it to its limits
Hey cordage the spring will snap on a short thus breaking the circuit. See here http://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_...q9x/what_happens_when_a_short_occurs_using_a/
With your .2 coil and vtc5 you're good to go. If it were a bad thing someone would've disagreed or posted a link by now. So long as everything else with your setup is ok - tidy coil and no shorts, decent tank capable of high heat, battery in good condition with no nicks, no lose connections, then vape away. You're not really going to get a much better battery than the sony. I never go below .4 or .5 with a dual coil bc I get what I need from that. To go lower than that there has to be a reason.
Just to be safe wrap a bath towel around the Mod, get someone else to hold it. Jokes aside. Battery explosion is a factor. It may happen one in 750,000. Still if you let go it is very unlikely to hurt you. Still just to be sure, wear glasses of some type to protect your eyes! You only get two eyes. Blind is not cool. Safety is the key. If you don't think its safe, don't do it.
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The fuses that I know of trip at 5-7 amps ... your original post setup would be 20+- ... with a fuse (7 amp) about .6 would be the lowest you could go.
cordar
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thanks all !!.. ok one more question. is the vape better with watts set lower at a lower resistance atty or watts higher with higher atty with end results the same? does that make sense? obviously the battery will put out more juice with one of the scenarios. will the atty heat up faster one of the ways? or is it 6 to 1 half dozen another? ok ..... ill stop babbling now.
A lower ohm coil at higher watts sounds good to me !
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Nothing is 100% safe, just make sure to feel if your mod gets hot (The body). I had 2 MNKE''s go on me over the last month. Not fun
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If the switch is hot STOP is the first rule of sub ohming.
I will speak about .2's on air they are generally recognized as "safe" given a 30 amp battery. Keep in mind Amps = Volts/Ohms... So Amps = 4.2 (theoretical maximum) / 0.20 = 21 Amps. All Ohm meters have some variance built in so that is why we are not all the way up knocking on the door of 30amps.
Some times depending on the mod your switch will get hot with this... reason being (sorry for the engineers out there I am simplifying i know you have to account for the complete circuit.) Basically It finds what ever the highest resistance piece of the puzzle is and it creates heat there... So as long as your coil is the highest resistance you will get heat at the atomizer and it vapes... With a really poorly designed and/or dirty switch the resistance of the switch is greater than the resistance of the coil and hence the switch heats up.
As far as the vape safe... umm if it is a 7 amp switch and you are pulling close to 20 amps... its gonna pop every time.
I will speak about .2's on air they are generally recognized as "safe" given a 30 amp battery. Keep in mind Amps = Volts/Ohms... So Amps = 4.2 (theoretical maximum) / 0.20 = 21 Amps. All Ohm meters have some variance built in so that is why we are not all the way up knocking on the door of 30amps.
Some times depending on the mod your switch will get hot with this... reason being (sorry for the engineers out there I am simplifying i know you have to account for the complete circuit.) Basically It finds what ever the highest resistance piece of the puzzle is and it creates heat there... So as long as your coil is the highest resistance you will get heat at the atomizer and it vapes... With a really poorly designed and/or dirty switch the resistance of the switch is greater than the resistance of the coil and hence the switch heats up.
As far as the vape safe... umm if it is a 7 amp switch and you are pulling close to 20 amps... its gonna pop every time.
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How a fuse works is it has something that watches the amperage, in a car this is a thin piece of metal. If the Amps go above a certain number it "Trips" the fuse... In a car it literally splits the piece of metal and has to be replaced. The purpose of a fuse is to break the current at a certain point before too much current can be expressed some where else, think of it as an emergency turn off switch.
So lets think about a car for a second... you have this big old battery in there with a spinning blade of death turbine charging it, and the faster you go the more power its dumping into this battery. Lets say the battery in the car suddenly has a surge and instead of putting out 5 amps of power to your radio it suddenly sends down 75 amps of power... Well sure your radio has some protection and even though its use to 5 amps it may be able to lets say take 8 amps... if the 75 amp load makes it all the way from the car battery to the radio you would blow out the radio and it would never work again... This is where the fuse comes in... The fuse is like "The radio is my buddy, don't kill him!!!" and jumps in front of that 75 amp load... the load tears him apart but you still have a working radio... May take the radio a little time... I mean after all he needs a new budy (a replaced fuse may help.)
So lets think about a car for a second... you have this big old battery in there with a spinning blade of death turbine charging it, and the faster you go the more power its dumping into this battery. Lets say the battery in the car suddenly has a surge and instead of putting out 5 amps of power to your radio it suddenly sends down 75 amps of power... Well sure your radio has some protection and even though its use to 5 amps it may be able to lets say take 8 amps... if the 75 amp load makes it all the way from the car battery to the radio you would blow out the radio and it would never work again... This is where the fuse comes in... The fuse is like "The radio is my buddy, don't kill him!!!" and jumps in front of that 75 amp load... the load tears him apart but you still have a working radio... May take the radio a little time... I mean after all he needs a new budy (a replaced fuse may help.)
