iSub G Coil Head Rebuild.. It CAN be done.

[Swerved]

Ok folks, got bored and figured this out. If you are so inclined and just like to tinker with things while you are vaping then here ya go.

What you will need:

1) 11mm socket
2) a drill bit - I used a 11/64th size.. seemed to work just right.
3) A hammer or something that will work in lieu of not having a hammer handy.
4) A gunked up iSub coil that you were going to throw away anyway.
5) Your favorite coil rebuilding stuff.. Wire, tools, wick, etc.. you know the drill.


Step 1
Put your coil upside down in the socket. I did this after I removed the little spit screen and pulled the old coil out through the top.

Step 2
Using the drill bit, center it on the middle pin of the 510 connector and tap with a hammer like this...

Step 3
You should end up with this...

Step 4
Remove the center pin from the coil body.

Step 5
Make your coil of choice.. In this case, I used a twisted 29 gauge Kanthal coil wrapped around a 1/8th inch screwdriver. I wrapped it 5 wraps and it came out to about .9 ohms. I would have liked to make a lower ohm coil, but to keep it in the same wattage range with what I had this is what I did.

Step 6
Remove the grommet from the top part of the coil head, then Insert your new coil through the bottom of the top half of the coil, and align it so that you can use your screwdriver to hold it in line with the juice holes. Then install the grommet back, but only put it around the short leg of the coil (I used that as the positive). The long leg will run down the outside of the grommet.

(yes I know.. I need to clip the nails... whatever.)

Step 7
Reinsert the center pin into the grommet. You will need to gently bend the leads out of the way so you can get it all the way in. You can use the leads to align your coil to the center (screwdriver still stuck through it) by tugging on them and getting slack out. Once you're good, you can clip them flush so they don't stick out. If you don't have a set of flush cutters, then fingernail clippers, which I obviously have misplaced, will cut close enough. You should end up with this...

Step 8
Check your coil and make sure it's centered.

Step 9
Set the coil assembly upside down on your work surface, with the pin sticking up and put the bottom piece back on top of it. Make sure that the air slots in the bottom are 90 degrees offset from the juice holes (IMPORTANT). Like this..

Step 10
Set your 11mm socket back on top of it and tap it until the pieces are press fitted back together.

And there you go!!!

At this point, you can thread a wick through the juice holes and put the little spit screen back if you wish. I didn't because I seem to have lost it in the process.. lol

Anyway, remember.. not too much wick, not too little. It takes a little practice and I'm still working on it. Also, don't test fire this thing. If you dry fire it with no wick, the grommet can overheat and you don't want your vape to taste like a burnt tire. Also, even if wicked and wetted, it will dry the wick fast so be careful.


So there you have it. A guide on how to rebuild your iSub G coil head.. Now what do I do.... hmm..

 

[Swerved]

*** UPDATE ***

If anyone is doing this with the iSub coils, then my suggestion is a 29 gauge parallel wrapped coil. 5 half wraps will come out to about .7 ohms and the flavor is much much better than the stock coil. The stock wattage range (20-35w, I run mine about 28w) is about right for this setup as well, so not too power hungry. Just make sure the wicking is good so the juice can be soaked up efficiently.

Enjoy!


P.S. - Mods, please feel free to put this in the "How To" section if it seems a better fit there.

 

[ChibiChula]

Thanks! I'll probably do this once I run out of new coils. Might put in a parallel 30g build or a single 26g build. Hmm... You think 24g might fit? I doubt there's enough room for it but that would be one heck of a sturdy low-ohm coil. Oh, I could be adventurous and try a nickle build. Would have to be 30g to get in enough spaced wraps with a horizontal coil, unless I decided to go vertical. Yay for options! I like options, lol.

 

[Lefty]

Thanks! I'll probably do this once I run out of new coils. Might put in a parallel 30g build or a single 26g build. Hmm... You think 24g might fit? I doubt there's enough room for it but that would be one heck of a sturdy low-ohm coil. Oh, I could be adventurous and try a nickle build. Would have to be 30g to get in enough spaced wraps with a horizontal coil, unless I decided to go vertical. Yay for options! I like options, lol.

3mm 5 wrap 24 gauge spaced fits fine and comes in at .5ish

 

[ChibiChula]

3mm 5 wrap 24 gauge fits fine and comes in at .5ish

Thanks for letting me know. That's probably what I'll put in some of them, though I might go for .25 on some of them and mark the rubber grommet on the bottom so I can tell the difference.

I think I still have 8 new coils left so I won't HAVE to do this for a while yet but I do have a couple of coils that have been used to death already so I might start experimenting soon anyway, if only to get a lower ohm coil since all the ones I have are .5 ohms and I've been really liking the .25 range more lately.

Sent from my SM-T320 using Tapatalk

 

[Swerved]

3mm 5 wrap 24 gauge spaced fits fine and comes in at .5ish

Confirmed, 24 gauge works fine. It's what I use in mine as of late.

 

[burn done]

Create video

 

[krazymonkeys]

You made this out to be a little harder than it has to be. To get this apart, all you really have to do is poke a small, maybe 2mm, screwdriver through the wick just enough to get it to poke out the other side so you can pull it the rest of the way through with tweezers or needle nose pliers. Then, using 2 screwdrivers, 1 through the wick holes and the other through the airflow holes at the bottom, just twist the housing apart. No need to mess with the screen at all cause it can be a pain to get back in just right. Then, if you don't want to have to build another coil, heat the old one up with a butane lighter, clean the gunk off, and then reinsert/rewick. These coils are kanthal with non-resistance wire welded on for legs. No need to treat them any different than coils on a rda unless you just want to change the build. These are by far the easiest and fastest coils I've ever rebuilt.

 

[Swerved]

Hmm... Next time I rebuild one of mine I will give that a shot. It only takes me a couple of minutes tops to do a rebuild but if I can shave that down a bit it will help. I usually rebuild about 5 at a time so it will add up. As far as reusing the coil, I generally prefer a fresh coil if I'm taking the time to tear something down and rebuild it.

Thanks for the input though. Going to give it a try.

 

[krazymonkeys]

Well, yea, in your case, you switched up to twisted wire, so you'd have to recoil it for that. I really only mentioned that part for people that are going for a build close to original. It saves a lot of headache. On my RDAs, if I am using single strand coils, I generally burn them off and keep going. Saves me the trouble of having to break in new coils. They vape clean and even right from the start that way. I never do that with multi-strand coils of any type though because it's hard to get all the gunk out without an ultrasonic cleaner and if you have to go through that much trouble you might as well rebuild anyway. That's also dependent on whether or not you make your own wire. I run my claptons through a cleaner because they are so time consuming to make, but regular twisted wire isn't worth the trouble because it usually takes me around 5 minutes to build them and an hour to clean them. Not to mention, putting already torqued coils in most RDAs sucks.

Edit:

Also, on a side note, if you have an Arctic tank, you'll know how bad they spit above 65 watts after being rebuilt. The screen from one of these coils will fit right in the end of an Arctic coil and almost completely stops it from spitting. Small price to pay considering you can buy isub coils 5 for less than $15 shipped but Arctic coils are usually a bit more.

 

[Nightwalker]

Will a 26 or 28g work?

 

[krazymonkeys]

Maybe 26 but you'd have fewer wraps for the same resistance. 28 would change it too much. I doubt I'd try it unless I was shooting for 1 ohm minimum. Honestly, I'd try going to a larger gauge before trying a smaller one. You'll be able to get more wraps and total surface area is way more important than total resistance when you are using a regulated device.

 

[Nightwalker]

Here

Maybe 26 but you'd have fewer wraps for the same resistance. 28 would change it too much. I doubt I'd try it unless I was shooting for 1 ohm minimum. Honestly, I'd try going to a larger gauge before trying a smaller one. You'll be able to get more wraps and total surface area is way more important than total resistance when you are using a regulated device.

In my small town, that's all they have. Online orders take up to a month. Trying to do the best out of this situation

 

[krazymonkeys]

Hmm. You could try building it with a parallel coil. That would decrease the resistance substantially and allow for more wraps. N80 would also help out quite a bit to that end if you have it available.

 

[ChibiChula]

Will a 26 or 28g work?

28g works in parallel coils but 26g is better for single unless you're going to try building a vertical coil, then you can do dual parallel with the 26g too or a triple parallel with the 28g. 24g is too tight a fit for my hands to get the coil back together sometimes but that's because I have Carpal Tunnel Syndrome, other people manage to do it though.

Sent from my SM-T320 using Tapatalk

 

[ChibiChula]

Here

In my small town, that's all they have. Online orders take up to a month. Trying to do the best out of this situation

A month for online orders of wire? Wow, where in the world do you live? I order from Lightning Vapes and my orders almost always arrive in 2 to 4 days, a week max if something goes wrong with the post office. A month is crazy unless you're ordering from China.

Sent from my SM-T320 using Tapatalk

 

[Cid6.7]

Are pics still available?
I cant see them
Thanks

 

[Nicknack75]

Just an FYI. Innokin now makes an rba kit for their iSub tanks. I have 8 of them, 1 for every tank. They're amazing! I got mine at myvaporstore.com for around $8 each & it comes with a lot. Although I use all my own stuff & I prefer Native Wicks, there's even a decent amount of Japanese cotton as well. Hope this helps.

 

[Cid6.7]

Have 2 sets of those
Both leak...

 

[Nicknack75]

Have 2 sets of those
Both leak...

That sucks. Sorry to hear that. I guess I just lucked out with all of mine.

 

[vapehog]

Ok folks, got bored and figured this out. If you are so inclined and just like to tinker with things while you are vaping then here ya go.

What you will need:

1) 11mm socket
2) a drill bit - I used a 11/64th size.. seemed to work just right.
3) A hammer or something that will work in lieu of not having a hammer handy.
4) A gunked up iSub coil that you were going to throw away anyway.
5) Your favorite coil rebuilding stuff.. Wire, tools, wick, etc.. you know the drill.


Step 1
Put your coil upside down in the socket. I did this after I removed the little spit screen and pulled the old coil out through the top.

Step 2
Using the drill bit, center it on the middle pin of the 510 connector and tap with a hammer like this...

Step 3
You should end up with this...

Step 4
Remove the center pin from the coil body.

Step 5
Make your coil of choice.. In this case, I used a twisted 29 gauge Kanthal coil wrapped around a 1/8th inch screwdriver. I wrapped it 5 wraps and it came out to about .9 ohms. I would have liked to make a lower ohm coil, but to keep it in the same wattage range with what I had this is what I did.

Step 6
Remove the grommet from the top part of the coil head, then Insert your new coil through the bottom of the top half of the coil, and align it so that you can use your screwdriver to hold it in line with the juice holes. Then install the grommet back, but only put it around the short leg of the coil (I used that as the positive). The long leg will run down the outside of the grommet.

(yes I know.. I need to clip the nails... whatever.)

Step 7
Reinsert the center pin into the grommet. You will need to gently bend the leads out of the way so you can get it all the way in. You can use the leads to align your coil to the center (screwdriver still stuck through it) by tugging on them and getting slack out. Once you're good, you can clip them flush so they don't stick out. If you don't have a set of flush cutters, then fingernail clippers, which I obviously have misplaced, will cut close enough. You should end up with this...

Step 8
Check your coil and make sure it's centered.

Step 9
Set the coil assembly upside down on your work surface, with the pin sticking up and put the bottom piece back on top of it. Make sure that the air slots in the bottom are 90 degrees offset from the juice holes (IMPORTANT). Like this..

Step 10
Set your 11mm socket back on top of it and tap it until the pieces are press fitted back together.

And there you go!!!

At this point, you can thread a wick through the juice holes and put the little spit screen back if you wish. I didn't because I seem to have lost it in the process.. lol

Anyway, remember.. not too much wick, not too little. It takes a little practice and I'm still working on it. Also, don't test fire this thing. If you dry fire it with no wick, the grommet can overheat and you don't want your vape to taste like a burnt tire. Also, even if wicked and wetted, it will dry the wick fast so be careful.


So there you have it. A guide on how to rebuild your iSub G coil head.. Now what do I do.... hmm..

Hi all,
I replace only the wick in my iSub 0.5 ohm coils and re-use. I have done this multiple times and am on my 2nd coil after months of use.
First I remove the screen carefully with a pin, press it into tissue to clean and straighten as it will deform slightly as you remove it.
Then gently push the wick from one side of the coil and grab the other side with tweezers to pull out the whole wick, taking care not to damage the coil.
When all traces of the old wick are removed (use a pin), screw the coil onto the coolfireIV unit. Fire the coil until it glows red which burns off all residue into ash, blow or gently scrape the coil to clean it.
Now I cut a strip of organic cotton very thin, 3-4mm wide, 50-60mm long and fold in the middle. Twist it to a rigid 'stick' and carefully feed it into one of the side holes on the coil, twisting and pushing until it's all the way in, until you have a bit of excess wick either side, cut this off (I use small wire cutters)
Replace the screen after saturating the new wick.
You now should have a fresh coil.
Happy days!