Joyetech Cuboid Problems & Quality Control Issues

[mgalyan]

It always makes me wonder when someone pops in with less than 3 post, a great understanding of electricity, and vaping, then they start slamming something. Joyetech made the chip in both the RX200, and the Cuboid. They perform very similarly in my opinion. Cuboid has a 20 amp protection limit that is slightly annoying. RX200 is a great performer. I have seen the atomizer short message on the Cuboid after dropping it on concrete. I reset the RDA and it cleared. Currently I have a Cuboid, Sigelei 150 TC, Fuchai, Snow Wolf, and an RX200. I find myself mostly using the Cuboid, so I must like something about it.

Would you have preferred I had 173 posts before I slam a product?

Doesn't really matter. I have one, and it's malfunctioning. Pretty simple. Sounds like I'm not the only one.

Just saying.

Edit: Hopefully Joyetech figures out what went wrong in design/manufacturing. I do like the fit and finish of the Cuboid, but reading resistance properly is a must for any TC mod, and really shouldn't be a problem with as far as we've come with regulated mods.

 

[Vapomizer]

First post, but...

I too have had my Cuboid for a few weeks now, and it has 2 of the 3 problems mentioned by the OP.

It consistently reads the resistance of any atomizer incorrectly (e.g. my (Kanthal built) Goliath reads 0.25 on my OHM meter, 0.23 on my wife's RX200, Cuboid bounces between 0.29 and 0.39 OHM) which makes TC utterly worthless. Not to mention inconsistent output in wattage mode.

It also will often say "Atomizer Short", when the atomizer is completely perfect.

Ironically, I bought the Cuboid to replace a mod that was bouncing around the resistance measurements as well. Unfortunately, it seems it was 40 bucks now more or less wasted.

Pretty bummed about this product.. I thought to myself.. "Joyetech is in the APV market with a firmware up-gradable triple TC mode 200 watt mod? I bet it's built like a tank!". Not true.

First off, welcome to VU,

Do you happen to use a tank with a floating positive pin? Have you tried another tank probably an RTA with a solid positive pin, not the floating rubber-loaded type? Coz these tend to produce that problem with the Cuboid, another trick to try is, with the tank screwed firmly on your mod, connect the mod to a computer, downgrade and then upgrade your firmware, this resets everything back to defaults and forces the chip to re-read the resistance, sometimes the problem is with the chip stored settings and not the 510.

The thing with the Cuboid is that its 510's positive pin is done differently from the RX200, the positive pin is square shaped and the insulator placement is a bit off, but there are still some RX200s that have the atomizer short problem and a few threads here about that.

If none of the above fixes the problem then you have no other option but to RMA it, that fix proposed by Joyetech is bullshit, I tried it and it is not possible, the insulator material is stiff and it is a very tight fit to actually be able to get in there and push it out with a flat blade, you will most probably damage the threads by attempting that.

It always makes me wonder when someone pops in with less than 3 post, a great understanding of electricity, and vaping, then they start slamming something.

Hey dude, stop doing that shit to new members, the guy most probably found this thread when searching for a fix to his issue, ended up here and signed up to post, a completely legit scenario, don't be a fucking ass.

Cuboid has a 20 amp protection limit that is slightly annoying.

It is exactly 25A not 20, that is what makes me wonder, you claim you been using it the most and you can't even get your facts straight, put a 0.15 ohms built on it, increase the wattage and see where it stops, do your ohm's law calculations and see how much the amp limit is, you will find it to be 25A exactly, do you even have a Cuboid?

EDIT: and by the way, that is not a fucking safety/protect limit, it is a cost saving limit, all other non-Joyetech dual battery mods have limits ranging from 35A to 55A, have you heard any of these being unsafe or blowing up? Acting like an ass and spreading misinformation is not helping anyone here, just saying ...

 

[Vapomizer]

UPDATE: since this thread became active again, i changed the title to one that is less sarcastic out of respect to the moderators team, kudos to them for keeping this freak show alive until now

 

[Bucky205]

First off, welcome to VU,

Do you happen to use a tank with a floating positive pin? Have you tried another tank probably an RTA with a solid positive pin, not the floating rubber-loaded type? Coz these tend to produce that problem with the Cuboid, another trick to try is, with the tank screwed firmly on your mod, connect the mod to a computer, downgrade and then upgrade your firmware, this resets everything back to defaults and forces the chip to re-read the resistance, sometimes the problem is with the chip stored settings and not the 510.

The thing with the Cuboid is that its 510's positive pin is done differently from the RX200, the positive pin is square shaped and the insulator placement is a bit off, but there are still some RX200s that have the atomizer short problem and a few threads here about that.

If none of the above fixes the problem then you have no other option but to RMA it, that fix proposed by Joyetech is bullshit, I tried it and it is not possible, the insulator material is stiff and it is a very tight fit to actually be able to get in there and push it out with a flat blade, you will most probably damage the threads by attempting that.


Hey dude, stop doing that shit to new members, the guy most probably found this thread when searching for a fix to his issue, ended up here and signed up to post, a completely legit scenario, don't be a fucking ass.


It is exactly 25A not 20, that is what makes me wonder, you claim you been using it the most and you can't even get your facts straight, put a 0.15 ohms built on it, increase the wattage and see where it stops, do your ohm's law calculations and see how much the amp limit is, you will find it to be 25A exactly, do you even have a Cuboid?

EDIT: and by the way, that is not a fucking safety/protect limit, it is a cost saving limit, all other non-Joyetech dual battery mods have limits ranging from 35A to 55A, have you heard any of these being unsafe or blowing up? Acting like an ass and spreading misinformation is not helping anyone here, just saying ...

You are correct on the 25 amp limit, my error, I just remember it was incorporated into the chip by Joyetech. As far as owning one, I have several, and a vape shop full of others. I am just suspicious when new VU member start slamming anything on their first few post. I see it a lot here in the marketing of MOD's, everyone has a reason there is something wrong with other vendors MOD's.

 

[mgalyan]

@Vapomizer

Thanks for the unequivocally warm welcome and straightforward answers.

I've done everything you mentioned. It's definitely the 510. If I screw on an atomizer while applying lateral pressure, it works "more often", but still isn't reading spot on, and still fluctuates every few minutes, bouncing my voltage from about 4.4 to 5.0v on 0.25 ohm.

Thankfully, the vendor was Mt Baker Vapor. I used a ton of points for a large discount on it.

If I'm reading correctly, APV's should fall under their 6 month manufacturer defect warranty. My wife just got her RX200 yesterday and to be honest, I'm not envious of the screen on that. It's the same as the IPV Mini 2 I was using before the Cuboid.

So, I'll probably buy an RX200 (or something comparable) today, and RMA the Cuboid when it gets here. Sucks, but what can you do...

 

[mgalyan]

Supplemental:

The tank I'm using primarily is a UD Goliath V1 clone. It's got a plated 510 pin that screws into the deck, and holds the positive block in place. It's not anything you would call floating, and it's not even really adjustable, just removable for disassembly.

 

[Vapomizer]

The warranty on Joyetech/Wismec/Eleaf APVs is 90 days from purchase not 6 months, if i remember correctly Kanger and SMOK are the ones with 6 months of warranty,

At this point i would just go for an RMA, i personally do not like the screen on the Cuboid, bigger, intrusive and more bloated than needed and that wide plastic strip on top of it is a fingerprints and scuffs magnet, i prefer the RX200 / iStick screen, small and only displays the necessary information, but if you like the design of the Cuboid and the screen, then you might wanna give it another try, otherwise the RX200 is superior, it weights the same, does not have the 25A output limit (with the latest firmware update) and will give you longer run-time.

Just go with whatever works for you and makes you happy, just remember no mod is perfect or rock solid as you initially thought the Cuboid would be, so buy from somewhere you could easily RMA with in case you get a lemon.

 

[skt239]

@skt239 I did a build on my Goliath using .26g Titanium from LightningVapes. It's actually pretty neat until the Cuboid ruins it! I totally can feel it "peak", then maintain. It's a pretty weird feeling knowing you could literally run the tank dry without burning through your wicks. Titanium is a pain though, not supposed to dry burn, etc.

Tonight, I'm fiddling with the damn 510 connection trying to get the Atomizer Short error to go away. Found this earlier..

"Kindly pls check, The o-ring insulator under the centre connector has been squashed. When you tighten your atty it moves and shorts out. Get a small flat screwdriver and carefully lift the centre pin and try and squash as much of the o-ring back underneath it. If your atomiser's centre sticks out too much it'll break the rubber insulator."

Apparently, this is an official response to the Atomizer Short issue (obviously, directed at an individual) from Joyetech. I can see what he/she is saying.. the o-ring insulator around my 510 looks like shit, but it looked horrible from day one, and I just assumed it was normal. I got it to fire just now, but as I mentioned earlier, it's a 0.25 ohm Kanthal build (just for wattage mode) that my Cuboid is reading at 0.37 at the moment. So, 65 watts is not actually what it's pumping out. Higher resistance requires more voltage for the same wattage, so it's actually firing harder than the wattage indicated.

What a pain. I don't want to RMA to China. Get my Cuboid back in what, a month or two?

I had the same thing happen with my first VTC mini. It started intermittently turned into a constant thing. After a while it stopped working all together and I exchanged it for a D2. I have since got a new one and while it does not give me issues, I'm still weary of the 510 and same goes for my RX...Where did you get the Cuboid from? I there any chance of help from the seller?

Ti wire is good, far superior to Ni in my opinion but that opinion is not held by many. If the Cuboid continues with the issues, maybe consider an IPV. It's a lot of power and the TC works great.

 

[mgalyan]

@skt239 I bought it from Mt. Baker since I could use my loyalty points and it was cheaper than the Chinese vendors.

Here's a response from them this afternoon:

Gary (Mt Baker Vapor)

Apr 7, 1:57 PM

Hello,

Thank you for contacting Mt Baker Vapor customer service! There indeed are some quirks with the device that have come to light lately. But for the most part some of the issues can be solved by you. I would just like to go over them quickly just to see if you have done them just yet. If you have we can go from there. So, with the device it does have a catch cup on it and you will notice that the area for the rda is raised up. If you are using a device that does not have a long 510 pin (much like the ones needed with the rx200 device) the rda will not read correctly and will have some issues. You can try to see how long the pin is, and with most rdas and some tanks they will have an adjustable pin that you can screw out a little to make a better connection there. Another one is that the devices pin itself has some spring issues. The pin is stiff, so sometimes if a top is screwed down too far it will push it down and then it will give you the atomizer short message. For this, if you have not yet, you can try turning the device off and using a thin screwdriver or paper clip, you can gently pull the pin up just a small bit and that will then make a solid connection for you there. I look forward to your response! Thank you.

Regards,
Gary

This has all already been covered, but it does sound like they'll be willing to help. It's also pretty clear that the message was a copy/paste job and I'm not the first person they've sent it to.

 

[skt239]

@skt239 I bought it from Mt. Baker since I could use my loyalty points and it was cheaper than the Chinese vendors.

Here's a response from them this afternoon:

Gary (Mt Baker Vapor)

Apr 7, 1:57 PM

Hello,

Thank you for contacting Mt Baker Vapor customer service! There indeed are some quirks with the device that have come to light lately. But for the most part some of the issues can be solved by you. I would just like to go over them quickly just to see if you have done them just yet. If you have we can go from there. So, with the device it does have a catch cup on it and you will notice that the area for the rda is raised up. If you are using a device that does not have a long 510 pin (much like the ones needed with the rx200 device) the rda will not read correctly and will have some issues. You can try to see how long the pin is, and with most rdas and some tanks they will have an adjustable pin that you can screw out a little to make a better connection there. Another one is that the devices pin itself has some spring issues. The pin is stiff, so sometimes if a top is screwed down too far it will push it down and then it will give you the atomizer short message. For this, if you have not yet, you can try turning the device off and using a thin screwdriver or paper clip, you can gently pull the pin up just a small bit and that will then make a solid connection for you there. I look forward to your response! Thank you.

Regards,
Gary

This has all already been covered, but it does sound like they'll be willing to help. It's also pretty clear that the message was a copy/paste job and I'm not the first person they've sent it to.

I've heard good things about their CS, hopefully they handle it.

 

[VapeBitc#]

After spending way too much time reading this thread I have come to a conclusion. So here's my 2 cents.

Just make sure you go into an actual certified shop not an online "authorized dealer" and all these issues everyone is talking about would be non existant. Everyone mentions the "mailbox" in these posts, like the guy with the first post... If you can't touch it and see it and use it in store...didn't buy it. Yes its more money. I have 3 joyetech mods, the VT, the VTC and the cuboid....all purchase at a store and I have never had a single complaint or problem with any of them. I think people who have problems with these mods, seem to be people who relied on the man behind a computer in China to deliver the real thing...or the mailman to handle their mod with care.... Have you seen how they handle those boxes, not with any care at all. So that's my 2 cents. No matter what mod any of you decide to get buy it at a STORE....then you won't have any problems. No refurbished, no clone...nothing.

 

[skt239]

After spending way too much time reading this thread I have come to a conclusion. So here's my 2 cents.

Just make sure you go into an actual certified shop not an online "authorized dealer" and all these issues everyone is talking about would be non existant. Everyone mentions the "mailbox" in these posts, like the guy with the first post... If you can't touch it and see it and use it in store...didn't buy it. Yes its more money. I have 3 joyetech mods, the VT, the VTC and the cuboid....all purchase at a store and I have never had a single complaint or problem with any of them. I think people who have problems with these mods, seem to be people who relied on the man behind a computer in China to deliver the real thing...or the mailman to handle their mod with care.... Have you seen how they handle those boxes, not with any care at all. So that's my 2 cents. No matter what mod any of you decide to get buy it at a STORE....then you won't have any problems. No refurbished, no clone...nothing.

I see your point but if you do a little digging on this forum you'll find plenty of people who have been screwed by shops. I always order from US based sites that are reputable, unless it's something like drip tips then I'll order from fast tech. Lastly I don't have to worry about my packages being mangled by the postman, he's 175 years old.

 

[Tanker]

K... Gotta throw in my personal experience. I have a Cuboid, and when I got mine the screen appeared to be scratched up pretty bad, then I figured out it was a protective film over the screen like you find on your phone, only harder to peel, but now it looks great. The unit does have an protective amp limit, which I don't like, but I appreciate it. I was getting an atomizer short message, that turned out to be my fault proving to me that the cuboid is much more sensitive than my RX 200, which will fire anything, but isn't extremely accurate when it comes to wattage, temperature, or ohms. I use a married set of Brown LG HG2 20A 3000mha batteries in it, and I personally love this Mod.

 

[Vapomizer]

After spending way too much time reading this thread I have come to a conclusion. So here's my 2 cents.

Just make sure you go into an actual certified shop not an online "authorized dealer" and all these issues everyone is talking about would be non existant. Everyone mentions the "mailbox" in these posts, like the guy with the first post... If you can't touch it and see it and use it in store...didn't buy it. Yes its more money. I have 3 joyetech mods, the VT, the VTC and the cuboid....all purchase at a store and I have never had a single complaint or problem with any of them. I think people who have problems with these mods, seem to be people who relied on the man behind a computer in China to deliver the real thing...or the mailman to handle their mod with care.... Have you seen how they handle those boxes, not with any care at all. So that's my 2 cents. No matter what mod any of you decide to get buy it at a STORE....then you won't have any problems. No refurbished, no clone...nothing.

Welcome to VU,

How do you think that offline shop got their stock? they ordered from the man behind the screen in wholesale and relied on the mailman to deliver, same same, they also didn't hold it in their hands before getting it in stock, going to an offline store and inspecting the device before taking it home maybe saves you some time but you pay much more for that benefits, plus, as with most electronic products, fault does not always reveal itself in the store, and that is what warranty is for.

In my case i returned the product back to the online store and got it replaced, they paid for shipping back and forth so it did not cost me an extra penny, it only took about a week or so to process back and forth, so your method is not bullet proof, you could test it in the store and all and then a week later you find fault with it, even if ordered from China, they do provide refunds if you send them a video showing the problem, sometimes without even asking for the product back, and if they refuse, this is what Paypal buyer protection and Credit Card charge backs are for.

If you feel more confident buying offline then that is good and all, but is not the only way to purchase electronics.

 

[Tanker]

After spending way too much time reading this thread I have come to a conclusion. So here's my 2 cents.

Just make sure you go into an actual certified shop not an online "authorized dealer" and all these issues everyone is talking about would be non existant. Everyone mentions the "mailbox" in these posts, like the guy with the first post... If you can't touch it and see it and use it in store...didn't buy it. Yes its more money. I have 3 joyetech mods, the VT, the VTC and the cuboid....all purchase at a store and I have never had a single complaint or problem with any of them. I think people who have problems with these mods, seem to be people who relied on the man behind a computer in China to deliver the real thing...or the mailman to handle their mod with care.... Have you seen how they handle those boxes, not with any care at all. So that's my 2 cents. No matter what mod any of you decide to get buy it at a STORE....then you won't have any problems. No refurbished, no clone...nothing.

If you feel more comfortable buying from a local B&M and want to support local business than by all means carry on, I was the exact same way. Remember, you are not buying a Martin or a Taylor, you're buying Chinese electronics and there really are no "Authorized Dealers". Personally, I have had better luck buying online, than I have buying from my local shops. I even buy my juice online now.

 

[skt239]

Welcome to VU,

How do you think that offline shop got their stock? they ordered from the man behind the screen in wholesale and relied on the mailman to deliver, same same, they also didn't hold it in their hands before getting it in stock, going to an offline store and inspecting the device before taking it home maybe saves you some time but you pay much more for that benefits, plus, as with most electronic products, fault does not always reveal itself in the store, and that is what warranty is for.

In my case i returned the product back to the online store and got it replaced, they paid for shipping back and forth so it did not cost me an extra penny, it only took about a week or so to process back and forth, so your method is not bullet proof, you could test it in the store and all and then a week later you find fault with it, even if ordered from China, they do provide refunds if you send them a video showing the problem, sometimes without even asking for the product back, and if they refuse, this is what Paypal buyer protection and Credit Card charge backs are for.

If you feel more confident buying offline then that is good and all, but is not the only way to purchase electronics.

Lots of good points.

 

[DevAuto]

If you feel more comfortable buying from a local B&M and want to support local business than by all means carry on, I was the exact same way. Remember, you are not buying a Martin or a Taylor, you're buying Chinese electronics and there really are no "Authorized Dealers". Personally, I have had better luck buying online, than I have buying from my local shops. I even buy my juice online now.

I'm split on it ... I like to support local business and try to do what I can to ensure the good shops survive. However, economically it isn't feasible for me to buy everything from them when online prices are drastically different, so I buy my juice at the good shops and anything else online. I also push the shops when people ask where to go, and when I'm there hanging out, I try to help customers make a decision to purchase. It's the least I can do for the shop.

 

[Tanker]

I'm split on it ... I like to support local business and try to do what I can to ensure the good shops survive. However, economically it isn't feasible for me to buy everything from them when online prices are drastically different, so I buy my juice at the good shops and anything else online. I also push the shops when people ask where to go, and when I'm there hanging out, I try to help customers make a decision to purchase. It's the least I can do for the shop.

I'm with you, on this. I have a local favorite here in Dallas, and I still buy juice and Coils from them, because I like their shop and people. My dad was a LBO and I'm all about supporting Local Business, but like you said, economically it's cheaper online. Prime example; not long ago I bought my Cuboid, for $39 from Vaperoyalty, my local B&M, 710 Vapors, has them also but theirs are $79. IMHO, there is not a lot of decision to make there, and Vaperoyalty are top notch when it comes to customer service. I still buy lots of stuff from 710, just not big ticket items. I did buy my RX200, 3 rewraps, and two chargers from them, $165 total price. I will say that the rewrap Sig batteries are pretty not bad, and when I decide to buy a Mech Mod, I will buy it local.

 

[mcvigo]

Im having trouble with temp control with this mod, as soon as I fire it, it jumps to power mode 20watts. Not sure why this happens, i have 316l SS 28 gauge dual 8 wraps on a griffin 22.

 

[Tanker]

Im having trouble with temp control with this mod, as soon as I fire it, it jumps to power mode 20watts. Not sure why this happens, i have 316l SS 28 gauge dual 8 wraps on a griffin 22.

Have you performed the Firmware upgrade?

 

[mcvigo]

Have you performed the Firmware upgrade?

yes 3.11.

 

[Tanker]

yes 3.11.

Strange, I haven't had any issues with mine, in TC mode, but I haven't tried the SS in TC either. If you had said it was a prebuilt coil then it would be easy, but you're using a Griffin. I know from experience that the Cuboid is very sensitive, so double check the coils and make sure that all the screws are tight. I have only vaped in power mode with my RDAs. Sorry I don't have any better answers.

 

[DevAuto]

I'm not having any issues with mine. SS-316L coil, 420 degrees, .45 ohms, and it's been going strong for the last week or so.

 

[DevAuto]

I should add it's been solid since before AND after the upgrade.

 

[TechnoGeek]

Im having trouble with temp control with this mod, as soon as I fire it, it jumps to power mode 20watts. Not sure why this happens, i have 316l SS 28 gauge dual 8 wraps on a griffin 22.

Has it ever worked on the Cuboid for you, or first time trying? I've used TC on the Cuboid with ss316L, 26 gauge, 28 gauge, and fused Claptons 28 gauge core, with a 30 gauge wrap... All of them have worked great.... Are you using spaced, or contact coils? Also, did you lock the resistance?

 

[thom804]

Chiming in here. I fucking love my Cuboid!

Using it with a TFV4 @0.22ohms/85w and it's smooth as anything.
I have had zero problems with it, especially in comparison to my original kanger subox setup.

I've said my piece.

 

[OneBadWolf]

Im having trouble with temp control with this mod, as soon as I fire it, it jumps to power mode 20watts. Not sure why this happens, i have 316l SS 28 gauge dual 8 wraps on a griffin 22.

This has happened to me on a few Joyetech mods. Usually a resistance issue, cleaning the 510 threads on the mod, and the atty and tightening the connections on your coils solves the problem.

 

[Mutescream]

Wow, I remember reading this thread in its infancy (not too long after I got my first cuboid, as a slightly late Christmas present). I apparently missed out on the fountain of fuckery that ensued, which is a shame (as it appears to have been entertaining). I should have signed up then, but just did it now. Better late, than never.

I just bought my 2nd and 3rd cuboids, both in stainless. My first one was black; I say was, as there isn't much of the black left on it (and has now become my "work vape", the new ones being my evening vape and my GF's vape respectively). While the firing buttons all have a little bit of rattle, I have not experienced any of the woes that others have, and find them to be solidly built mods. Certainly of better construction than the KBox Mini, Cloupor, or Vamo mods that I have had in the past. I daresay, even better than the Innokin iTaste SVD (the firing button requiring ridiculous pressure to fire was the only gripe there; it's otherwise still functional, if obsolete).

I do apologize for the necromancy of bringing this back to the surface.

 

[CorallineAlgae]

I got my black Cuboid in January. It's still in my daily rotation and looks pretty much brand new.

 

[Tanker]

Wow, I remember reading this thread in its infancy (not too long after I got my first cuboid, as a slightly late Christmas present). I apparently missed out on the fountain of fuckery that ensued, which is a shame (as it appears to have been entertaining). I should have signed up then, but just did it now. Better late, than never.

I just bought my 2nd and 3rd cuboids, both in stainless. My first one was black; I say was, as there isn't much of the black left on it (and has now become my "work vape", the new ones being my evening vape and my GF's vape respectively). While the firing buttons all have a little bit of rattle, I have not experienced any of the woes that others have, and find them to be solidly built mods. Certainly of better construction than the KBox Mini, Cloupor, or Vamo mods that I have had in the past. I daresay, even better than the Innokin iTaste SVD (the firing button requiring ridiculous pressure to fire was the only gripe there; it's otherwise still functional, if obsolete).

I do apologize for the necromancy of bringing this back to the surface.

I haven't had any issues with mine. It's durable as hell, and I don't see any issue with the new look from the upgrade. People would bitch if you hung em with a new rope. JMHO.

 

[HaileStorm]

Got my cuboid last year, went through three copies and chose one that was most aesthetically pleasing. Went through the same thing with my new Lavabox M.

These products are made in China. Which means it's a lottery when it comes to actually getting a flawless product.

That said, I collect flashlights and all the lights I have are from China too but all of them are flawless. I guess it comes down to the manufacturers and how competitive the market is. They're churning out new products almost every other day that they dont really pay much attention to quality inspection.

EDIT:
All cuboids come with a screen protector installed by the way. It's an issue i wrote to Joyetech about and they mentioned that most if not all their mods come with a screen protector installed for shipping purposes.

It's a bitch to peel off but it's there. Be warned though that if you peel this off, the screen is an absolute scratch magnet.

Generally, I've had a good experience with Joyetech. My cuboid and my vtc mini still work flawlessly to this day. 1yr and counting.

 

[s7m8a1978]

I'll be receiving mine in the mail today. I expect it to be a nice upgrade considering I'm currently using a Vamo and first gen MVP using first gen Aerotanks. I just want to step into the sub ohm and tc pool. I think it will be a nice starter mod for this genre.

Any mass produced product line is going to have lemons leave the factory. I like to say lemons are made on Friday. Any mod will have its strengths and weaknesses. I also believe that generally you get what you pay for save the occasional unicorn.

I've been lurking here and researching different mods in my target price range. I'll give my impressions when I receive it and take it for a spin.

This thread has been entertaining for sure. Through all of my lurking here in various threads, I have to say there's a knowledgeable group of folks here.

Can the FNG get a cowbell for making his first post?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[s7m8a1978]

Well. I got home and opened my vape mail. This is what I get.

The screen looks like the mod had been dragged down a gravel road. Horrendous!
Just kidding. Anyway I put new batteries on charge and took kids trick-or-treating. Came back to charged batteries and started it up. Nothing too crazy. Running an iSub V. TC and VW work perfectly. Still trying to dial in TC though. I will say I'm impressed so far especially when considering my other mods.

Also the Cuboid can be used for self defense if needed. It's a brick but that's not an issue for me. Anyway that's all I got for now. No complaints.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Deucesjack]

Well. I got home and opened my vape mail. This is what I get.

The screen looks like the mod had been dragged down a gravel road. Horrendous!
Just kidding. Anyway I put new batteries on charge and took kids trick-or-treating. Came back to charged batteries and started it up. Nothing too crazy. Running an iSub V. TC and VW work perfectly. Still trying to dial in TC though. I will say I'm impressed so far especially when considering my other mods.

Also the Cuboid can be used for self defense if needed. It's a brick but that's not an issue for me. Anyway that's all I got for now. No complaints.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Make sure you do the update. SS TC is much smoother with the update.

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[s7m8a1978]

Make sure you do the update. SS TC is much smoother with the update.

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Thanks. I was gonna do it before running it but waiting on Windows to update. I'll definitely pull the trigger on the firmware update as soon as my laptop decides it's done being a jerk.


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[Mutescream]

Be sure to check out what the display looks like, in picking up the updates... I ended up rolling back a couple updates, because I hated the display on the last few.

 

[CorallineAlgae]

I recommend firmware V3.04 if you want to stay at 150 watts or V3.14 if you want to bump it up to 200 watts. The 5.04 & 5.14 firmware versions work exactly the same but use the wonky display.

 

[s7m8a1978]

Yeah. I looked last night at the different versions. The 5.x screens aren't my thing. Good to know I can go to a lower version, keep the default screen and not sacrifice performance by doing so.


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