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kBox resetting?

Discussion in 'Regulated (Voltage / Wattage / 3.7v/ Temp Control)' started by smoothdraw, Apr 19, 2015.

  1. smoothdraw

    smoothdraw New Member

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    Does anyone here owning a kBox have the need to "reset" the mod by pulling out the battery to get it to fire up again? Mine (owned for abt a month) will all of a sudden stop firing, and then flash for about 3 seconds. Removal of the battery will get it working again.

    And on another note, I hope Kangertech designs their battery holder mech with a quarter-turn lock-in instead of this threaded lock they have now. It can be a pain to seat correctly, with a battery spring fighting you.
     
  2. Whiskey

    Whiskey Diamond Contributor Member For 3 Years

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    I have one, that never happened to me, I do have a battery that it doesn't like, the battery works in all my other mods , just not the Kbox, so I bet it may be a spring/connection isuue
     
  3. Teresa P

    Teresa P Flavah 'Ho Staff Member Senior Moderator VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 2 Years

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    No problems with mine either, other than the task of getting the cap on - shot it across the break room at work today.....lol!
     
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  4. BumbaCLot

    BumbaCLot Bronze Contributor

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    Mine works fine, just wondering how long it will take for the threads to grind loose.
     
  5. smoothdraw

    smoothdraw New Member

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    Wunnerful...I may have a kBox as defective as I am... ;)
     
  6. EthelMaltol

    EthelMaltol Silver Contributor

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    No problems here, in fact, I'm loving mine so much that now I want to order the black one. The battery cover is a bit tight, but can't complain on this simple, inexpensive mod!
     
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  7. EthelMaltol

    EthelMaltol Silver Contributor

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    Definitely! I'm on a budget and can't spend much. :( I'm always looking for deals, plus I mix my own juice, most of the time. The kbox shines for me as it has a replaceable battery. That way, you are never without your mod, just slap in a new battery. Course, you need to invest in some 18650's and a charger, but they fit into just about all the mods on the market!
     
  8. TrashCat

    TrashCat Member For 3 Years

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    I don't get the Kbox at all... There is such a huge jump between watt levels... I find a difference of just 1 watt can make or break a juice's flavor.
     
  9. smoothdraw

    smoothdraw New Member

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    I find anything above 25 watts to taste burned- even on a brand new wick/coil. I usually burn at a low-ish 20.
     
  10. hazozita

    hazozita Bronze Contributor Member For 3 Years

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    Sorry to say I had the same problem, and it got worse. Started out happening just once in a while, and a battery removal/reinstall fixed it. Then it started happening more often, and after a week or so got to the point where it would not fire at all. Got an RMA from the vendor (VaporBeast), sent it back to them and they confirmed it was a board problem and gave me a store credit since they were OOS at the time. Just used the credit to get another one (got the black one this time). Hoping it will fare better than the initial one.
     
  11. smoothdraw

    smoothdraw New Member

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    Sorry it happed to you, but glad to know that mine is not a one off. It hasn't happened in a few days, so...fingers crossed...
     
  12. Faslane

    Faslane New Member

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    I don't have any battery issues per se but no matter what I try I have two cable boxes that only flashlights when I go to fire them. Kangertech needs to recall these..I've tried different vaporizers on top both coiled and WIC and even different atomizers entirely other than Kanger brand and nothing works whatsoever I get blinking lights and no vapor at all. Kanger needs to do a recall on these or at least exchange them for the people who bought them.
     
  13. Faslane

    Faslane New Member

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    This is BS. Kangertech needs to recall these or at least replace the ones that are bad. I have two of them, a silver one and a black one both regular not the beginner kit versions and neither one will fire no matter what kind of coil, vaporizer, or battery by using it. They are simply dead
     
  14. John Vezirian

    John Vezirian Bronze Contributor Member For 2 Years

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    I have had this happen on literally every K-Box I have, I have 5 of them, usually happens after about 6 months of use, a couple even less. I have actually fixed all of mine, and have not had anymore issues, but it is a tough fix to accomplish, but I have fixed mine by seating in a clear silicone bed. I Remove the top, then push out the wire and insulator, using one of the other suggested fixes, I have used the o-ring from one of the OCC coil, actually two of them, one in the grove it was in, and one below. I then using a large bore syringe, injected a bed of silicone at the bottom around the hole, I then pull the center post back thru carefully and use the base from an extra tank to lightly set and hold in place, not too tight,

    I then fully encased the center lead and the center pin housing from the back in silicone, making sure it bonds to the other material, using a toothpick to lightly blend and distribute the sealant. This has worked on 4 of 5 that went bad, I have a 5th that actually is holding up very well.

    oh additionally I have found this to be a good permanent fix to the 4 blinking light issue once I have them functioning properly.

    I added a finned heat sink to each of my K-boxes, 22mm dia (google it) stainless steel, this is tightened to the box once you have the spring loaded pin fixed, then you are not having the tanks push on the pin, and eventually it pushes the silicone gaskets around and they short.

    I attach the atty to the heat sink, it is built much better, has screw adjustment, and never remove from the box once tightened, there is no need to remove once you have verified good connection,

    I actually tighten down till it bites a bit and makes it very hard to remove, even if you get the connection repaired with another method, I highly recommend adding the Stainless Steel heat sink (FastTech has them, get steel, the aluminum ones are very iffy on working connection, they do have black and blue in steel too, other sites have them also) to your K-boxes, then you are not connecting and disconnecting from the spring connection all the time, which goes bad after the tanks are removed and reconnected.

    It gives the mod a nice look too, but since I have added these to my K-Boxes, I have had no more shorting issues from the pin.

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