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lipo 30 mm rda

mokeife

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Lipos aren't dangerous if installed on a DNA 250.... Charging is done onboard with a telephone charger. .... At under 2.0 amps balanced charge...... Mine doesn't even get hot and the charger last all day....


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lipos arent dangerous period you have much more room to work with on a lipo battery just know ohms law and batt saftey
 

MannyScoot

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Member For 4 Years
100 watts all day for (2)days on a ......1850 Maxamps 3s Lipo 100c.....No lag 7.2volts.... At 11volts drop your socks and grab your cock......
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MannyScoot

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Member For 4 Years
Yeah, you're right about that, but if you go back and re-read you'll see I said .028 ohms... not .28.



I hear you Manny, but even at .04 you're still gonna need something like 20V and 500A to get that kind of power. I just just can't wrap my head around that kind of current running through a 4-5 inch piece of 26 or 24 guage wire or even a combination of different wires. Hell, we're talking about large welding machine type of current flow here.

There's obviously a crapload I don't know about how lipo batteries and PWM mods work, and so far, I haven't been able to find any definitve info. I surely would like to know more about it though if someone could point me in the right direction. I've googled lipo batteries and PWM, and didn't find anything that would tell me anything really useful.

Michael
This guy ain't going to be happy until he blows his dick off........... Ha.......

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MWorthington

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This guy ain't going to be happy until he blows his dick off........... Ha.......

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No, it ain't like that at all. Early in the thread somebody mentioned lipo mods putting out as much as 10000 watts and I was dumbfounded at the idea. I was simply stating what it would take to produce that much power in the first place. I never realized there were batteries available that would deliver that kind of current in the first place.

Personally, I feel that vaping at 500 watts as was mentioned is bordering on suicidal. As for me, I'm perfectly happy with my little 18 watts so it's a moot point for me. :)

Michael
 

MannyScoot

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Member For 4 Years
No, it ain't like that at all. Early in the thread somebody mentioned lipo mods putting out as much as 10000 watts and I was dumbfounded at the idea. I was simply stating what it would take to produce that much power in the first place. I never realized there were batteries available that would deliver that kind of current in the first place.

Personally, I feel that vaping at 500 watts as was mentioned is bordering on suicidal. As for me, I'm perfectly happy with my little 18 watts so it's a moot point for me. :)

Michael
I've done 400 watts on my Modfather..... I got throat fucked by Satan...... Fuck I'm feeling it right now and it happened last year......

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mokeife

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im kind of turned off by the voltrove and ill tell you why its because it has the same wicking setup as the modfather 30mm which i have and have wasted tons of juice trying to get the wick to perfectly cover those 4 wicking holes. if you dont get it right juice will just poor right out the drip tip idk any tips out there. ps my modfather 30mm also doesnt wick very well i cant run it above 150 or so watts and still take long pulls i like my vcmt alot better. just my 2 cents i know im gonna get bashed for this since there are alot of modfather/voltrove lovers out there.
 

Mikhail Naumov

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when you say thousands of watts how many thousand?? the highest ive gone with my lipo and big buddah was 1500 or so with a .17 build. i also would like to know what ohms you vape these thousands of watts at? since the builder of my lipo says not to go below .2 now i know i could hit around 1400 watts with that build. i am looking into getting a voltrove and a 41mm rda i am all about building i mostly do fused claps and tri core aliens. i usually vape from 450 to 550 but am looking to pushing the envelope a little more but now im scared to build below .2 ohms. i am also all about unregulated mods the only thing i use regulated for is dry burning my coils. Ive even been educating and pushing unregulated mods on my friends and so far 1 has bought one and he loves it maby were just getting started?

Turnigy nanotech 35C/70C 4S lipo, I can build down to .1 at full power and JUST be hitting the pulse limit of the cell. I have MaxxAmps that can handle 100C loads. All depends on the battery. By thousands I literally mean 1,000-5,000W. I never personally exceed 1,200W and that's RARE when I even go above 500W. I just like lipo PWMs.

As far as 3,500W and above, you'd need a 5-6S lipo (which my mod will take, any cell 2S-6S is compatible) to do that or a REALLY nice 100C 3,000mah+ 4S. 6S Lipo PWM at full charge/full power would put out around 25V, get a 0.065 build, boom 10,000W. Yeah it requires around 400A, but lipos (Especially when you get into 6S+ ones) can very much handle that if you get a larger, nicer one.

I made this box myself and use it every day.

Specs:

CNC Alpinetech ATI 1590N1 style hidden magnet/no lean enclosure w/ .28 meter cutout.
Big Al IntelliPWM 2S-6S Smart PWM board with potentiometer installed (with bezel).
Magnetic (Neo) door.
2,200mah 16.8V 4S Turnigy Nanotech 35C-70C lipo.
30mm smooth top Varitube 510
12 gauge silicon copper wire for all load bearing connections, 28 gauge stranded copper for switch/meter connections.
12mm horn-style dual post antivandal switch
XT60 connector
.28 SMAKN green volt meter.
 

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mokeife

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very nice i just ordered a custom smart pwm with an nlpwm (new board) from beau renfro with a graphine 4s cell
 

mokeife

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Member For 3 Years
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100 watts all day for (2)days on a ......1850 Maxamps 3s Lipo 100c.....No lag 7.2volts.... At 11volts drop your socks and grab your cock......
3394277cbf2baf03f25528e10ea59940.jpg


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ive been vaping this same set of tri core aliens and same wick at 425 watts for over a week now...my secret homemade juice with no artificial sweeteners
 

MannyScoot

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Member For 4 Years
ive been vaping this same set of tri core aliens and same wick at 425 watts for over a week now...my secret homemade juice with no artificial sweeteners
There is nothing like a custom we'll made job.... You pay $300 or $400.00 but what you're getting is amazing electronics and precision machining.

I saw a group talking about stabwood mods, and how beautiful they are, bit man bull shit Sigelei electronics....

Like $300.00 for that asmodus mod.... With Chinese parts....

Common I rather pay $300.00 to a philipino guy who takes a week to make a mod and drives on his moped around different villages to get the parts he needs.... Just like in midevil times.....

Now for that I pay $400 bucks to have a mod that I really love, Vapes like a....... Santa Fe locomotive and will be around for a long time..... Built by hand 1 of a kind..... Those phillipino guys can build some shit ... I had a DNA 40 built by Carlos mods I paid $400.00 for it and had it for over a year !!!! And guess what..... I sold it for $400.00........

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MannyScoot

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Turnigy nanotech 35C/70C 4S lipo, I can build down to .1 at full power and JUST be hitting the pulse limit of the cell. I have MaxxAmps that can handle 100C loads. All depends on the battery. By thousands I literally mean 1,000-5,000W. I never personally exceed 1,200W and that's RARE when I even go above 500W. I just like lipo PWMs.

As far as 3,500W and above, you'd need a 5-6S lipo (which my mod will take, any cell 2S-6S is compatible) to do that or a REALLY nice 100C 3,000mah+ 4S. 6S Lipo PWM at full charge/full power would put out around 25V, get a 0.065 build, boom 10,000W. Yeah it requires around 400A, but lipos (Especially when you get into 6S+ ones) can very much handle that if you get a larger, nicer one.

I made this box myself and use it every day.

Specs:

CNC Alpinetech ATI 1590N1 style hidden magnet/no lean enclosure w/ .28 meter cutout.
Big Al IntelliPWM 2S-6S Smart PWM board with potentiometer installed (with bezel).
Magnetic (Neo) door.
2,200mah 16.8V 4S Turnigy Nanotech 35C-70C lipo.
30mm smooth top Varitube 510
12 gauge silicon copper wire for all load bearing connections, 28 gauge stranded copper for switch/meter connections.
12mm horn-style dual post antivandal switch
XT60 connector
.28 SMAKN green volt meter.

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Nice and clean..... I like clean jobs.... Here are my DNA 250 and the DNA 167
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Mikhail Naumov

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very nice i just ordered a custom smart pwm with an nlpwm (new board) from beau renfro with a graphine 4s cell

I don't personally like the NLPWM board as much as I like the Big Al or even Gunstar boards (I've made a lot of fucking PWM mods and used every board out there and straight up 555 timer setups as well) because it's RMS DC which honestly isn't even PWM. By electrical standards it IS a form of PWM, but it's a pulse that's so fucking fast that it will pull a flat line on a scope. It's basically DC and I like a potentiometer over up and down buttons.

If you want a (basically) variable voltage mod that can go literally all the way from 0V to whatever the highest battery load last registered post-sag/drop was and like buttons opposed to wheels then the NLPWM is basically your dream board. Me personally, I like the duty cycle action of true PWM because the switching of constant maximum battery voltage leads to minimal ramp up even in lower power situations and I also am partial to the potentiometer for adjusting power. I also don't like how they want you to use those weird fucking cut-out buttons that almost resemble a DNA board. I own two NLPWM mods though, one I made myself and another from BroScience labs. They both vape fucking great and by all accounts are wonderful mods, I just prefer true PWM. I will admit I do like pairing the NLPWM mods with Voltrove/MF products as they're all in the same family, though.

Nice and clean..... I like clean jobs.... Here are my DNA 250 and the DNA 167
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I appreciate it, I honestly feel like I could've used less wire on the XT60 connections though. In the future all my mods will have a 3D printed cover that literally shrouds everything except the XT60 and like 60% of the wires running to it and the lipo. The less my customers see, the less tempted they'll feel to poke around and fuck with it. Already had two mods come back this month because people started sticking conductive shit around near the board and burned out a trace from a mild short. Fucking people.

I'm currently making a DNA250 mod for a customer using a triple 20700 sled, seemed like a different idea from the norm. Most people just want fucking squonk DNA250's or series boxes these days. I specialize in PWM's and yet I make less of those compared to every other mod. When I switched to modding as my full time career I didn't imagine I'd get so fucking sick of making the same things over and over. People just love series boxes..
 

MannyScoot

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
So you think I made a good decision with the Big Al's board and his attached potentiometer. I'm also using a custom CNC box the dimensions were sent to Hitchiker Mods and I bought a 2250mah 3s 100c Maxamps Lipo....

The switch is a stainless Steel Mitec.... The 510 is a Varitube V4



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Everpresentnewb

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Ill just throw this out there... Mooch did a lot of testing on Lipos, and the maxamps are NOT 100C batteries. I know a lot of the RC car guys wont even touch their stuff... 100C rated and they put 16G wire on it?? if it pulled the current allowable by the C rating that 16G wire would burn up quickly!

Now that said, I do have one in my DNA200. But that board limits the amp draw. In my PWM boxes I use Turnigy lipos.

I just dont want someone uninformed thinking "OOH, 100C rated 2250! I can build to 225Amps!!" and then have a massive failure....
 

MannyScoot

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Ill just throw this out there... Mooch did a lot of testing on Lipos, and the maxamps are NOT 100C batteries. I know a lot of the RC car guys wont even touch their stuff... 100C rated and they put 16G wire on it?? if it pulled the current allowable by the C rating that 16G wire would burn up quickly!

Now that said, I do have one in my DNA200. But that board limits the amp draw. In my PWM boxes I use Turnigy lipos.

I just dont want someone uninformed thinking "OOH, 100C rated 2250! I can build to 225Amps!!" and then have a massive failure....
I know to charge it at 2 amps . And Vapes good at .06 at 10 volts.....

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Mikhail Naumov

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Ill just throw this out there... Mooch did a lot of testing on Lipos, and the maxamps are NOT 100C batteries. I know a lot of the RC car guys wont even touch their stuff... 100C rated and they put 16G wire on it?? if it pulled the current allowable by the C rating that 16G wire would burn up quickly!

Now that said, I do have one in my DNA200. But that board limits the amp draw. In my PWM boxes I use Turnigy lipos.

I just dont want someone uninformed thinking "OOH, 100C rated 2250! I can build to 225Amps!!" and then have a massive failure....

Mooch ain't god. People really need to stop touting his word as if he is.

Batteries don't have 'amp' limits. They have temperature limits. And I can't attest to continuous, but I promise you from my own results MaxxAmp batteries CAN handle 100C loads on a pulse.

But MaxxAmp isn't the end all, best lipo out there for high drain, either. It's kind of in the middle somewhere. MaxxAmp is REALLY great at marketing though, which is why so many people hold their batteries up on a satin pillow and refuse to use anything else. It's an average-grade lipo.

Also vaping is a pulse only type of circuit for the most part, RC is continuous all day. So 16 gauge wire isn't super harmful to us. Still fucking stupid, I use 12 gauge wire for all my battery connections. Vaping mods also use MUCH FUCKING LESS overall wire than any RC, anything, so. That actually does also matter.

I would also like to point out you can slice the wires off any lipo, even the tabs for series bridges, and replace them with your own fairly easily. So even if it does have 16G wire on it, you can replace it with 8G if you wanted.

But being real, who cares? XT60's, the best connector you see used commonly, is only rated for 60A. 12/14GA copper wire, rated again for around 60A on short pulse throws, EVEN LESS on continuous throws. 555's in PWM circuits, fucking 60A.

So even if you do have a 300A battery, you'll never be able to push it that far without the parts in your mod taking a shit on you first. You CAN find atomizers out there with the space and airflow needed for multi-thousand watt builds, but the problem is nobody has lungs good enough to vape that shit regularly unless it's like 0 nic.

The most amps I ever drew vaping was around 80A with a 5S. I couldn't breathe for about 10 minutes. Never again.
 
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Wheelin247

Member For 3 Years
Not a tank I'd throw over 800W at, it can handle a lot of wattage but for the true thousand watt, ubercloud chasing shit, you need an RDA with tons of room and tons of airflow. TONS. Like 40mm+ tons. I love my 41mm Voltrove RTA, it's my daily driver, but I wouldn't put it on my 4S PWM at over like 9V.

I've had the Voltrove for some time now and just built a lipo mod. Right now I'm running a 2200mAh 3s and waiting on a MaxAmps 2800mAh 4s. Wondering on your 4s what your resistance is on the Voltrove? Mine is coming in a .45 on mine and running it at 11.5V on the NLPWM lipo. I also have 2 Mason 40mm's and thinking of putting an alien build or staggered fused claptons in one and seeing what this thing can really do.


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Wheelin247

Member For 3 Years
how do you keep your cores alligned...tape ribbon sliders ?

One thing I use to keep my cores aligned is ribbon wire crimped with nylon tipped pliers around the cores and slide it down the wires as I come up on it. Works the best so far and I've tried just about everything from paper clips, key rings to the clips you find on the hoodies for holding the hood rope tight.


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Wheelin247

Member For 3 Years
im kind of turned off by the voltrove and ill tell you why its because it has the same wicking setup as the modfather 30mm which i have and have wasted tons of juice trying to get the wick to perfectly cover those 4 wicking holes. if you dont get it right juice will just poor right out the drip tip idk any tips out there. ps my modfather 30mm also doesnt wick very well i cant run it above 150 or so watts and still take long pulls i like my vcmt alot better. just my 2 cents i know im gonna get bashed for this since there are alot of modfather/voltrove lovers out there.

I have the Voltrove and someone told me when I first got it the secret is when your wicking, once you get the cotton saturated to take your tweezers and smash to saturated cotton down on the holes. Since doing that I have never had any issue with it leaking and I've been using for about 4-5 months and I have to say this is by far my favorite RTA (other ones I've used is the Smok TFV... line). This has taken place of my RDA's I have. Just .2¢ on help I was given when first using the Voltrove and issues with the leaking issue.


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