Looking at getting into mechanical mods. Any advice?

[BenBetteridge00]

hey, im looking at getting a mech mod, maybe the hammer mod. I am currently running a smok r80 tc with a derringer rda with dual fused claptons reading at 0.2Ω, lovely little setup. I was in my local vape shop and he was showing me a mechanical squonk mod but i didnt really like the idea of squonking myself but the mechanical side really apeals to me. I dont really know much about mech mods but i can build coils fairly well now, i have done a bit of research and found i need to be using VTC4's to be safe but what else do i need to know and where can i find this information?

Any help is much appreciated.
Ben

 

[SkoldVape]

Go on steam engine where you can calculate resistance and amps

 

[MagicJosh]

Dont make any mistakes, They are not as safe as regulated mods.

 

[The Cromwell]

What is to not like about squonking?
You prefer pulling out a bottle and squirting juice in your atty every few minutes to squonking?

about mechs.
learn Ohms law and how it applies to battery current and coil resistance.

Never use a subtank on a hybrid style mech.

always check your builds on an ohm meter or regulated mod, both before and after putting the atty cap on. Coils can short against the cap.

Learn how to keep your mech cleaned and working well.

NEVER just keep trying to fire a mech if it is not working right. NEVER.
Figure out what is wrong.

Famous last line of mech users who blew themselves up.
'I don't know it would not fire and then it just exploded'.

Learn about Battery Mooch and his TRUE battery ratings.
There are NO 18650's over 30 amps and NO 3000 mah 18650's over 20 amps.
Only buy Sony, Samsung or LG batteries from a good source, Never amazon or especially Ebay.

Ohh and Welcome to VU.

 

[mach1ne]

while they are a great battery, you dont need vtc4 to be safe. 25r and vtc5a (especially these) are also great mech batteries. if you are using good batteries, the only factor that you really need to take into account on a mech is your batteries amp output. if you build for your batteries, you will be building safe. after you are building safe, the only things that can 'get' you are things like torn battery wraps, or being sloppy with your build (coils shorting out on the cap, or eachother, bits of clipped off coil leg etc). the only way to avoid those kind of problems is vigilance and practice/experience. just double check everything, every time, and never get complacent ('ive been doing this for years with no problems' is the fastest way to problems).

i use steam engine to plan my builds out. there is wire wizard to figure out your resistance (and everything else about your coils), and an ohms law calculator so you can see how many amps/watts your coils will draw.

welcome to the forums hop on over to the coil building area if you have any questions about building (from ideas on builds, to techniques for making fancy coils, or just to post some pics).

 

[Carambrda]

Here, Mooch explains why both the VTC4 and the 25R simply just suck compared to the VTC5A.

https://youtu.be/qYDLMsxjAYY?t=447

 

[WhiteAce]

As a new mech user I would recommend using nichrome or stainless wire at least 26 gauge if you build your own coils.
Using a 30 amp lg battery has been the best for me the pink ones. They are not counterfeited as much as the Sony's.
Make sure your mod can be taken apart and cleaned easily down to it's individual parts as you have to clean at least once a week.

 

[SkoldVape]

As a new mech user I would recommend using nichrome or stainless wire at least 26 gauge if you build your own coils.
Using a 30 amp lg battery has been the best for me the pink ones. They are not counterfeited as much as the Sony's.
Make sure your mod can be taken apart and cleaned easily down to it's individual parts as you have to clean at least once a week.

Can't go wrong with 26g

 

[snake94115]

hey, im looking at getting a mech mod, maybe the hammer mod. I am currently running a smok r80 tc with a derringer rda with dual fused claptons reading at 0.2Ω, lovely little setup. I was in my local vape shop and he was showing me a mechanical squonk mod but i didnt really like the idea of squonking myself but the mechanical side really apeals to me. I dont really know much about mech mods but i can build coils fairly well now, i have done a bit of research and found i need to be using VTC4's to be safe but what else do i need to know and where can i find this information?

Any help is much appreciated.
Ben

My best advice is to do exactly as @The Cromwell recommended.
I do have a question for you.
Can you explain what it was about the mechanical squonker you didn't like?

EDIT : AND TO MAKE SURE YOU ARE GETTING AUTHENTIC BATTERIES/CELLS BUY THEM FROM THE LINK BELOW.

https://www.rtdvapor.com

CHEERS!

 

[kevin littell]

The Mod stays out of the pants pocket.


Any glitch in operation requires an immediate teardown.


check coil resistance daily.


Lastly, if your a plug and play kinda person, stick with regulated box's. The face or leg you save will be YOURS.

 

[Carambrda]

As a new mech user I would recommend using nichrome or stainless wire at least 26 gauge if you build your own coils.
Using a 30 amp lg battery has been the best for me the pink ones. They are not counterfeited as much as the Sony's.
Make sure your mod can be taken apart and cleaned easily down to it's individual parts as you have to clean at least once a week.

The pink LG HB6 used to be the safest 18650 of them all. But we have a new kid in town... it's the Vapcell Black. It hits harder than the VTC5A, which makes it [Vapcell Black] the hardest hitting 18650 of them all, and it has 1800 mAh, whereas the HB6 pink only has 1500 mAh. That said, 1800 mAh is still not much compared to the 2500 mAh of the VTC5A. So the VTC5A catches up really very quick. In fact it takes only a few pulls for it to catch up. That's why the VTC5A is still called "the king of 18650". Whenever I want to use a 30 amp battery, I'll use one that has more than 2500 mAh, not less. It means that, in addition to using the VTC5A, I also use the Ijoy 5-legged 20700 and the Ijoy 26650. It also means that I am on the lookout for other excellent performing batteries other than the ones I have now. Like, for example, the Vapcell Gold (identical to the Sanyo NCR20700A).

Bottom line, I don't see a very good reason to still buy the LG HB6 pink anymore right now. Instead, I see an even better than very good reason to keep reading up on Mooch's battery tests, right now and in the future.

 

[MrMeowgi]

What is to not like about squonking?
You prefer pulling out a bottle and squirting juice in your atty every few minutes to squonking?

about mechs.
learn Ohms law and how it applies to battery current and coil resistance.

Never use a subtank on a hybrid style mech.

always check your builds on an ohm meter or regulated mod, both before and after putting the atty cap on. Coils can short against the cap.

Learn how to keep your mech cleaned and working well.

NEVER just keep trying to fire a mech if it is not working right. NEVER.
Figure out what is wrong.

Famous last line of mech users who blew themselves up.
'I don't know it would not fire and then it just exploded'.

Learn about Battery Mooch and his TRUE battery ratings.
There are NO 18650's over 30 amps and NO 3000 mah 18650's over 20 amps.
Only buy Sony, Samsung or LG batteries from a good source, Never amazon or especially Ebay.

Ohh and Welcome to VU.

I feel like some people have this speech written down for when the question is asked. Reading your response. I was thinking of stuff to add and all I could think was oh I didn't think about that one, or that one. Almost too much info to put in one response. Ha ha

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

[snake94115]

I feel like some people have this speech written down for when the question is asked. Reading your response. I was thinking of stuff to add and all I could think was oh I didn't think about that one, or that one. Almost too much info to put in one response. Ha ha

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Ok let me break it down for you.
Dripping requires constant attention on your RDA.And even if you are using 1 of those humongous chuff/grennedy style drip-tips.Odds are more than likely your e-liquid is going to land on the coil and not the wick.Which will cause the coil to junk up fast.Oh and it can get messy as fuck quite quickly.
With squonking you get all the benefits of dripping (FLAVOR FOR DAYS) with zero of the inconvenience.Almost no mess unless you over squonk.
And your e-liquid goes directly to the wicks where it belongs instead of landing on the coil.Oh it is really hard to over squonk believe it or not.
1st hit = very wet but not flooded
2nd hit = wet
3rd hit = oh yeah right there that's the spot
4th hit = squonk
Wash rinse repeat until either the battery needs charging or your squonk bottle runs damn near empty.
But hey if you really want to go the dripper route that is alright by me.Whatever keeps you from smoking is a bonus in my book...Cheers!
Oh and there are tons of die hard drippers around these forums to help you out...Cheers!

 

[MrMeowgi]

Ok let me break it down for you.
Dripping requires constant attention on your RDA.And even if you are using 1 of those humongous chuff/grennedy style drip-tips.Odds are more than likely your e-liquid is going to land on the coil and not the wick.Which will cause the coil to junk up fast.Oh and it can get messy as fuck quite quickly.
With squonking you get all the benefits of dripping (FLAVOR FOR DAYS) with zero of the inconvenience.Almost no mess unless you over squonk.
And your e-liquid goes directly to the wicks where it belongs instead of landing on the coil.Oh it is really hard to over squonk believe it or not.
1st hit = very wet but not flooded
2nd hit = wet
3rd hit = oh yeah right there that's the spot
4th hit = squonk
Wash rinse repeat until either the battery needs charging or your squonk bottle runs damn near empty.
But hey if you really want to go the dripper route that is alright by me.Whatever keeps you from smoking is a bonus in my book...Cheers!
Oh and there are tons of die hard drippers around these forums to help you out...Cheers!

Thanks for that but I'm not the original poster and have been here for a while. I appreciate it though. There's always a possibility to learn something new with every conversation.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

[pulsevape]

yeah...get used to spending alot of time cleaning contacts...

 

[snake94115]

yeah...get used to spending alot of time cleaning contacts...

contacts of what?

 

[WhiteAce]

The pink LG HB6 used to be the safest 18650 of them all. But we have a new kid in town... it's the Vapcell Black. It hits harder than the VTC5A, which makes it [Vapcell Black] the hardest hitting 18650 of them all, and it has 1800 mAh, whereas the HB6 pink only has 1500 mAh. That said, 1800 mAh is still not much compared to the 2500 mAh of the VTC5A. So the VTC5A catches up really very quick. In fact it takes only a few pulls for it to catch up. That's why the VTC5A is still called "the king of 18650". Whenever I want to use a 30 amp battery, I'll use one that has more than 2500 mAh, not less. It means that, in addition to using the VTC5A, I also use the Ijoy 5-legged 20700 and the Ijoy 26650. It also means that I am on the lookout for other excellent performing batteries other than the ones I have now. Like, for example, the Vapcell Gold (identical to the Sanyo NCR20700A).

Bottom line, I don't see a very good reason to still buy the LG HB6 pink anymore right now. Instead, I see an even better than very good reason to keep reading up on Mooch's battery tests, right now and in the future.

 

[WhiteAce]

The battery contacts and threading. I clean mine twice a week, stainless steel is easy to clean though all you need is a toothbrush and soap with a little water.
For the contacts use alcohol and a microcloth. If it has magnets you need to clean the housing and the magnets then put them back in right, it can be a pain when they stick to everything. I usually put one on the flat end point of my needlenose pliers so I can place it back in the housing.
Itmay sound like a lot but it really isn't, I know that it will fire when I press the button at the end of the day and that's what counts.

 

[Carambrda]

The battery contacts and threading. I clean mine twice a week, stainless steel is easy to clean though all you need is a toothbrush and soap with a little water.
For the contacts use alcohol and a microcloth. If it has magnets you need to clean the housing and the magnets then put them back in right, it can be a pain when they stick to everything. I usually put one on the flat end point of my needlenose pliers so I can place it back in the housing.
Itmay sound like a lot but it really isn't, I know that it will fire when I press the button at the end of the day and that's what counts.

I don't use alcohol on the contacts. Just a piece of 1000 grit sandpaper to carefully remove black spots (that are due to arcing) from the firing pin every once in a while if needed, and, on the screw threads, a piece of leftover cotton (that I couldn't use for wicking my coils) with just a few drops of contact spray─as contact spray removes not only the dirt, but the oxidation as well. (A copper or even a pure silver mod does not hit harder than a brass or an aluminum one, at least not if your mod uses good contacts and you take proper care of them.)

 

[Just Frank]

I have a question. In all these mech threads people recommend batteries from three companies. Always the big three but why? While battery shopping at Liion Wholesome and IMR Ive noticed some more expensive brands.

Imren and Efest the types I'm talking about. They have the price tag of high-end batteries. They usually print the stats (i doubt the accuracy) on the sides of their batteries. Nobody talks about these brands, why? Cheaply made or inconsistent? I'm curious cuz I just don't know.

 

[spr258]

I have a question. In all these mech threads people recommend batteries from three companies. Always the big three but why? While battery shopping at Liion Wholesome and IMR Ive noticed some more expensive brands.

Imren and Efest the types I'm talking about. They have the price tag of high-end batteries. They usually print the stats (i doubt the accuracy) on the sides of their batteries. Nobody talks about these brands, why? Cheaply made or inconsistent? I'm curious cuz I just don't know.

Most of the batteries that you are talking about are just rewrapped batteries that the three companies rejected. Why pay more for inferior products that did not pass quality test from the big three? If you want to know the true specs of the other brands review Mooch's test. Gives true specs and a trusted battery tester

 

[Angrygod50]

Sony Samsung and LG make batteries and put there name on them and the specs they use are honest.
With rewraps you don't really know what battery is under the wrap and they always over rate and over price them.
Mooch tested some Efest 40amp that were 20 amp and he tested some that were only 10 - 12 amp. There are NO 40 amp 18650 batteries. Why take chances and over pay for a unknown battery? Be safe and stay with the big three brands. IMR and Liion stock them because folks what them but if you look at Liion's site all the big 3 he says Genuine and tested. You don't see them doing that with other brands.

 

[Just Frank]

Most of the batteries that you are talking about are just rewrapped batteries that the three companies rejected. Why pay more for inferior products that did not pass quality test from the big three? If you want to know the true specs of the other brands review Mooch's test. Gives true specs and a trusted battery tester

Is this a fact? I didn't know that. Thats messed up. Jacked up prices for shitty reject batteries. I'll stay away from them.

 

[Just Frank]

Sony Samsung and LG make batteries and put there name on them and the specs they use are honest.
With rewraps you don't really know what battery is under the wrap and they always over rate and over price them.
Mooch tested some Efest 40amp that were 20 amp and he tested some that were only 10 - 12 amp. There are NO 40 amp 18650 batteries. Why take chances and over pay for a unknown battery? Be safe and stay with the big three brands. IMR and Liion stock them because folks what them but if you look at Liion's site all the big 3 he says Genuine and tested. You don't see then doing that with other brands.

Cool, thanks for the info.

 

[spr258]

The battery contacts and threading. I clean mine twice a week, stainless steel is easy to clean though all you need is a toothbrush and soap with a little water.
For the contacts use alcohol and a microcloth. If it has magnets you need to clean the housing and the magnets then put them back in right, it can be a pain when they stick to everything. I usually put one on the flat end point of my needlenose pliers so I can place it back in the housing.
Itmay sound like a lot but it really isn't, I know that it will fire when I press the button at the end of the day and that's what counts.

I do about the same thing. I have a brass mech with copper contacts. I can not take it apart so I soak it once a week in ketchup for an hour or two. Clean everything with soap and water and then mothers mag and aluminum polish especially the treads. That is done one a week. Every time I rewick my RTA I take a qtip with mothers and clean the threads. I also clean my RTA while its apart. Takes me only a couple mins. I would take this over a regulated mod. I know that I am not going to have a problem with it. Do not have to worry about boards and other electrical issues.

 

[Carambrda]

I have a question. In all these mech threads people recommend batteries from three companies. Always the big three but why?

I guess it's because these people haven't read up on Mooch's battery tests (I know it happens a lot). Mooch always talks about the big 5 (Sony/LG/Samsung/Panasonic/Sanyo), not 3 (Sony/LG/Samsung). Panasonic makes some great higher capacity (above 3000 mAh) batteries that can be a wiser choice than the Sony VTC6 or the Samsung 30Q for those vapers who specifically vape at pretty low watts thus requiring like maybe only a 15 amps CDR battery, maybe less than that, whereas Sanyo makes the NCR20700A so, just because the vast majority of vapers don't actually need or want Panasonic or Sanyo batteries, doesn't also mean ALL vapers don't.

While battery shopping at Liion Wholesome and IMR Ive noticed some more expensive brands.

Imren and Efest the types I'm talking about. They have the price tag of high-end batteries. They usually print the stats (i doubt the accuracy) on the sides of their batteries. Nobody talks about these brands, why? Cheaply made or inconsistent? I'm curious cuz I just don't know.

Mooch did talk about Efest. While it is true the fact Efest used to ridiculously overrate their batteries and they actually even got slapped on the wrist for that, https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/t...ately-rated-same-cell-as-ijoy-ampking.806303/
Not saying I would buy an 18650 battery by Efest... just proving my point about people not reading up on Mooch's tests. I dunno why that is. Foolishness would be my best guess.

 

[Carambrda]

Is this a fact? I didn't know that. Thats messed up. Jacked up prices for shitty reject batteries. I'll stay away from them.

No, it's not fact. Rewraps are not rejects... instead they are usually (but certainly not always) lower grade batteries that perform one or two percent worse, but that aren't bad batteries, albeit usually (but certainly not always) they are indeed overpriced, sometimes pretty steeply overpriced.

 

[Carambrda]

Sony Samsung and LG make batteries and put there name on them and the specs they use are honest.
With rewraps you don't really know what battery is under the wrap and they always over rate and over price them.
Mooch tested some Efest 40amp that were 20 amp and he tested some that were only 10 - 12 amp. There are NO 40 amp 18650 batteries. Why take chances and over pay for a unknown battery? Be safe and stay with the big three brands. IMR and Liion stock them because folks what them but if you look at Liion's site all the big 3 he says Genuine and tested. You don't see them doing that with other brands.

In the 18650 battery ballpark, yes I would avoid rewraps because [in that specific ballpark] there are several better performing (and cheaper) non-rewraps that are widely available from those trusted manufacturers. In the 20700 (and 26650) battery ballpark, not so much. Ijoy does not manufacture batteries. Despite this, I do use their 5-legged 20700 and their 26650, both of which are excellent batteries, and that has been verified by Mooch so I know I'm not talking bull. (I own 7 mech mods that can support 20700 batteries.)

 

[spr258]

No, it's not fact. Rewraps are not rejects... instead they are usually (but certainly not always) lower grade batteries that perform one or two percent worse, but that aren't bad batteries, albeit usually (but certainly not always) they are indeed overpriced, sometimes pretty steeply overpriced.

Sorry did not mean that they were bad batteries but that they did not pass quality control from the major battery manufactures. I guess even a 1%-2% lower performance is enough for the big companies to not want their name on it so that's why I would call them rejects.

 

[Carambrda]

Sorry did not mean that they were bad batteries but that they did not pass quality control from the major battery manufactures. I guess even a 1%-2% lower performance is enough for the big companies to not want their name on it so that's why I would call them rejects.

They did pass quality control from the major battery manufacturers. That's why they're not called rejects, but instead they're called different grades─despite we usually don't know what grades we're going to get... typically we just get a mix of different grades, and the difference in performance between different grades tends to be subtle enough to be not noticeable or barely noticeable in vaping.

 

[irradiated]

They did pass quality control from the major battery manufacturers. That's why they're not called rejects, but instead they're called different grades─despite we usually don't know what grades we're going to get... typically we just get a mix of different grades, and the difference in performance between different grades tends to be subtle enough to be not noticeable or barely noticeable in vaping.

Just to add a little bit to what you said, it's alot like computer processor grading, or 'binning'. Alot of the times, the different models of CPU in the same series are the exact same chip, but when tested they had small flaws and things that reduce their performance, so they get sold at a lower tier.. sometimes, parts of them are artificially disabled, but I don't think that happens with batteries. Chips sold under the same name/model number often have differences in performance as well, due to the small flaws and differences in manufacturing each one.

I'm waffling, but basically, the rewrap companies buy the lower-grade batteries from the big companies at a probably reduced price, and slap their own names on them for a nice profit margin. Thing is, what grade of batteries they're putting under the wrap could change at any time, on top of the misleading labelling. Mooch could test it at 20a and then a couple months later they could put the same wraps on 10a or 15a batteries and we wouldn't know.. so, at the end of the day, it's definitely best to buy from the 'big five' so that you know precisely what battery you are working with.

@Carambrda , this post is mostly directed at spr and the OP.

 

[5150sick]

Educate yourself and respect the power of an 18650 cell

 

[Carambrda]

Just to add a little bit to what you said, it's alot like computer processor grading, or 'binning'. Alot of the times, the different models of CPU in the same series are the exact same chip, but when tested they had small flaws and things that reduce their performance, so they get sold at a lower tier.. sometimes, parts of them are artificially disabled, but I don't think that happens with batteries. Chips sold under the same name/model number often have differences in performance as well, due to the small flaws and differences in manufacturing each one.

I'm waffling, but basically, the rewrap companies buy the lower-grade batteries from the big companies at a probably reduced price, and slap their own names on them for a nice profit margin. Thing is, what grade of batteries they're putting under the wrap could change at any time, on top of the misleading labelling. Mooch could test it at 20a and then a couple months later they could put the same wraps on 10a or 15a batteries and we wouldn't know.. so, at the end of the day, it's definitely best to buy from the 'big five' so that you know precisely what battery you are working with.

@Carambrda , this post is mostly directed at spr and the OP.

The rewrap companies don't always buy the lower-grade batteries. They often do it, but they certainly don't always do it. Thing is, when I'm buying 18650 batteries, I don't need to look for rewraps. That's simply because, then, I'm buying genuine Sony VTC5A batteries from a vendor that's on Mooch's list of trusted vendors. AFAIK there aren't any rewraps of the Sony VTC5A anyway in the first place. And I have zero need for any 18650 battery other than the Sony VTC5A. Now, this isn't to say the only battery that I vape on is the Sony VTC5A. Anyone who has been following Mooch's battery tests and video interviews on YouTube should know by now the vaping world doesn't stop at 18650 batteries. Despite Ijoy doesn't manufacture batteries (only rewraps) you can rest assured that my Ijoy 5-legged 20700 and Ijoy 26650 batteries are all 30 amps CDR, just like you can rest assured that Ijoy aren't suddenly going to switch them to inferior batteries. Because if they do, then they'll catch hell from people like Mooch, and you can rest assured that they are perfectly well aware of this fact. Me, I'm waiting for more rewraps of the Sanyo NCR20700A to appear some time soon. Had the Vapcell Gold been available to me, I'd be vaping on it right now because that Sanyo is still nowhere to be found. I own 7 mechs that officially can support 20700 batteries. I guess it would be more than safe to say the Ijoy 5-legged 20700 has been serving me well.

 

[Zohmbiebuilds]

If you have to buy from eBay genuine cells has good deals, better yet, buy from there website. Even cheaper.

I've always had great luck with them. There new sticker is a little different than the one they used before but are from the same source

Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk

 

[Zohmbiebuilds]

The rewrap companies don't always buy the lower-grade batteries. They often do it, but they certainly don't always do it. Thing is, when I'm buying 18650 batteries, I don't need to look for rewraps. That's simply because, then, I'm buying genuine Sony VTC5A batteries from a vendor that's on Mooch's list of trusted vendors. AFAIK there aren't any rewraps of the Sony VTC5A anyway in the first place. And I have zero need for any 18650 battery other than the Sony VTC5A. Now, this isn't to say the only battery that I vape on is the Sony VTC5A. Anyone who has been following Mooch's battery tests and video interviews on YouTube should know by now the vaping world doesn't stop at 18650 batteries. Despite Ijoy doesn't manufacture batteries (only rewraps) you can rest assured that my Ijoy 5-legged 20700 and Ijoy 26650 batteries are all 30 amps CDR, just like you can rest assured that Ijoy aren't suddenly going to switch them to inferior batteries. Because if they do, then they'll catch hell from people like Mooch, and you can rest assured that they are perfectly well aware of this fact. Me, I'm waiting for more rewraps of the Sanyo NCR20700A to appear some time soon. Had the Vapcell Gold been available to me, I'd be vaping on it right now because that Sanyo is still nowhere to be found. I own 7 mechs that officially can support 20700 batteries. I guess it would be more than safe to say the Ijoy 5-legged 20700 has been serving me well.

View attachment 99934

What would you choose I am going to try to save up for either a 20700, 21700, 26650.

I need better battery life and the ability to build lower while staying within My batteries limits

Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk

 

[Carambrda]

What would you choose I am going to try to save up for either a 20700, 21700, 26650.

I need better battery life and the ability to build lower while staying within My batteries limits

Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk

My advice right now would be to save up and wait for the Samsung 40T and or 30T to become available to the consumer market later this year. Both of these two are 21700 batteries, and, these two hit so hard they will basically eliminate the need to build lower, but right now there aren't any 21700 batteries worth buying so patience is the key... that is, unless you can't wait to buy a 21700 capable mod, in which case I would just grab the Vaperz Cloud Sarov, and, for the time being, use it with either the Sony VTC5A (with the adapter sleeve that comes with the mod) or a rewrap of the Molicel INR20700A (5-leg top contact):

• AmpKing AK3030 (5-leg top contact)
• EBAT Blue (5-leg top contact)
• EnerCig EC-27HC (5-leg top contact)
• iJoy (5-leg top contact)
  
• KeepPower (5-leg top contact)

(See: https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/blog-entry/20650-20700-21700-battery-ratings-table.7827/ )

Or, if you can find it, use the Sanyo NCR20700A (or the Vapcell Gold, which is a rewrap of the Sanyo NCR20700A)... that would be the best option, at least for the time being, but they can be difficult to find...

Finally, keep in mind that rewrap companies can at any time decide to change what's under the wrap so if going for rewraps, then not only should you buy from a trusted vendor (like always), but also you should probably contact that trusted vendor and ask them if they can confirm that the rewrap in question (i.e. the one that they're selling) is indeed a rewrap of either the Molicel INR20700A (5-leg top contact) or, if going for the Vapcell Gold and if we can assume that you can find it, the Sanyo NCR20700A.