Infectedlolipop
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sup all looking for a good mech single 18650 i had box mod diy before kinda like them and i understand ohm law so i dont really have problems with that just dont know any good cilinder style mechs
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looking for a mech
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Infectedlolipop
Member For 1 Year
shit the only thing i dont know whats better between center pin and hybrid and how they’re different need some reading before i post next time lel
jwill
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Shouldn't be a difficult decision. Let your RDA/RTA collection determine what you can accomodate. If your atty collection has protruding center pins, shoot for hybrid. If not go with a center pin model.
For a good authentic tube under 100$ the Dreamer from Timesvape is one of my favorites. Hybrid connection, accepts 18650, 20700 and 21700 batteries. The switch is super smooth and a great looking mod from a
good company.
Dropped my copper one on concrete and jacked up the corner of my button, still worked but mine being copper looked bad. I contacted Timesvape not expecting much, but I had a reply that day and they found me a replacement button, excellent customer service.
good company.
Dropped my copper one on concrete and jacked up the corner of my button, still worked but mine being copper looked bad. I contacted Timesvape not expecting much, but I had a reply that day and they found me a replacement button, excellent customer service.
Infectedlolipop
Member For 1 Year
sold my atomizers but im thinking getting RDA dunno which one if you recommend center pin model then gonna check them out maybe you have some mechs in mind?
Infectedlolipop
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I recommend getting a tube with a center pin. Hybrid connections can present a much higher risk and the benefit is very small. A broadside would be great for your first tube mod.
Infectedlolipop
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any suggestions of mech mods you know with center pin ?
The broadside or the NATO mod are good choices for tubes with non hybrid connections. The biggest plus IMO of hybrid caps is the mod being shorter, it may but I never noticed too much of a difference of a hybrid cap hitting harder.
jwill
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Its one less piece of resistance in the chain, one less thing to have to adjust and fiddle with and it makes something already simple even more so. Almost all current generation atty's have protruding center pins at this point. Some sub ohm tanks and atty's that come as part of kits and so forth do not. I liken it to the difference of a mid engine to a rear engine. Subtle differences, little more torque.
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The op didn't know the difference between a hybrid connection and a 510 pin and it is his first mech. To me that means he already has other safety concerns to pay attention to without worrying if his atty will short out. Also the 510 pin on an atty is usually a lot smaller than a centerpin on a top cap wich makes it much easier to dent the top of the cell. There is little benefit of having a direct to battery connection with some added safety concerns. To me that means they are not good for noobs.
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Infectedlolipop
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not really my first mech i made diy box mod with 510 pin until i fried my button and stuck in firing position and almost fried my mosfet i was pushing to much amps to button so i said no more box mods maybe tube mech mod of some kind
I’ll sell you my Petri Lite 24 for $80It’s it excellent condition
Let me know
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I don't think he knows enough yet to use a hybrid mech.
Infectedlolipop
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always have time to learn about them any threads learning about hybrid mechs?
I disagree for newby's, you're limited on the Atty's that you can use on a direct to battery mech. While with a pin it's more flexible and better suited for a first time mech user
If it's got any chips or wiring it's not a Mech.
Anyway I concur with the recommendations on the Broadside, that'd be a good first Mech.
Also with Newby's I post this and you need to go through this and fully understand it or stick with Regulated Mod's.
1. Ohm's law, http://www.steam-engine.org/ makes it easy and there's even an app on it for Android
2. Batteries! you MUST take good care of your batteries and know them!!!!!!!!
a. Avoid garbage batteries like eFest who rewrap rejects with grossly inflated amp ratings. Stick with authentic LG, Sony or Samsung from reputable (not ebay or amazon) sources, great places to get authentic are from
http://liionwholesale.com/
https://www.imrbatteries.com/
b. Stick well within Continuous Discharge Rate (CDR) Not the "pulse"
c. Keep up to date with what Mooch tests and battery ratings, follow his posts on Facebook and his Blog
d. In Mod's with multipule batteries, marry them.
e. Get some battery wraps, they're cheap and easy to re-wrap batteries. Any nicks,tears or what ever don't be stupid and just re-wrap.
3. Don't build stupid low a good builder can chuck and get awesome dense vape from a good build. It's simple, with 20 CDR Amp batteries -
a. Single battery mod's you're fine with .2 ohms on up
b. Dual Parallel you're fine with .15 on up. Parallel you take the full CDR of one battery and you can add 1/2 the amp rating of the next battery
c. Series you double the voltage but you share the amp. So a series you build high with a lot of wire, no lower that .4 ohms.
4. Make sure you don't have any shorts. For an extra caution any new build I vape on a regulated mod for a few drips or with a tank about a 1/4 tank. This is to insure nothing wonky with my build or any shorts.
5. Careful if it's not in your hand, if it doesn't have a lock on the button and you put it in your pocket (which I really don't recommend) insure nothing else is in your pocket and it's loose. Don't want to put it in your front jeans pocket and blow your Johnson off ya know
6. Last but certainly NOT the least, keep it clean! Clean it when you first get it "before" you even use it and clean it on a regular basis.
a. Ultrasonics are a very good investment, got mine off Amazon for around $25.
Sadly, every tube mod I've had will eventually do this - because most of the switches are already half-assed garbage. Ideally, you'd want the OTHER end to have a flexing-connection that would recoil from threading down the atty thru the hybrid. (The NC and such come close to being non-damaging).
I loved seeing that - I call the chipped shit "unregulated" - not mechanical, not regulated - folks then scream and rage.
Hah! You know? I've worn slacks for so damned long I had forgotten tight-ass jeans you can't even reach yer change/keys in! hehehe. I've never had a problem with pocketing a mod, but - yes, my pockets are loose.
I plan to order a DS-style to add to my set of mechanicals. Love to learn where to get spare switches or bottles.
Infectedlolipop
Member For 1 Year
thanks for posting this read it all i was thinking maybe getting tauren mech if its good gonna use it and learn about mech mods more down the road if its a good choice ?I disagree for newby's, you're limited on the Atty's that you can use on a direct to battery mech. While with a pin it's more flexible and better suited for a first time mech user
If it's got any chips or wiring it's not a Mech.
Anyway I concur with the recommendations on the Broadside, that'd be a good first Mech.
Also with Newby's I post this and you need to go through this and fully understand it or stick with Regulated Mod's.
1. Ohm's law, http://www.steam-engine.org/ makes it easy and there's even an app on it for Android
2. Batteries! you MUST take good care of your batteries and know them!!!!!!!!
a. Avoid garbage batteries like eFest who rewrap rejects with grossly inflated amp ratings. Stick with authentic LG, Sony or Samsung from reputable (not ebay or amazon) sources, great places to get authentic are from
http://liionwholesale.com/
https://www.imrbatteries.com/
b. Stick well within Continuous Discharge Rate (CDR) Not the "pulse"
c. Keep up to date with what Mooch tests and battery ratings, follow his posts on Facebook and his Blog
d. In Mod's with multipule batteries, marry them.
e. Get some battery wraps, they're cheap and easy to re-wrap batteries. Any nicks,tears or what ever don't be stupid and just re-wrap.
3. Don't build stupid low a good builder can chuck and get awesome dense vape from a good build. It's simple, with 20 CDR Amp batteries -
a. Single battery mod's you're fine with .2 ohms on up
b. Dual Parallel you're fine with .15 on up. Parallel you take the full CDR of one battery and you can add 1/2 the amp rating of the next battery
c. Series you double the voltage but you share the amp. So a series you build high with a lot of wire, no lower that .4 ohms.
4. Make sure you don't have any shorts. For an extra caution any new build I vape on a regulated mod for a few drips or with a tank about a 1/4 tank. This is to insure nothing wonky with my build or any shorts.
5. Careful if it's not in your hand, if it doesn't have a lock on the button and you put it in your pocket (which I really don't recommend) insure nothing else is in your pocket and it's loose. Don't want to put it in your front jeans pocket and blow your Johnson off ya know
6. Last but certainly NOT the least, keep it clean! Clean it when you first get it "before" you even use it and clean it on a regular basis.
a. Ultrasonics are a very good investment, got mine off Amazon for around $25.
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You should start with what people are calling Hybrids are not Hybrids. A Kennedy Ruby is a hybrid and a Kennedy Roundhouse is a direct to battery "not" a hybrid
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Sounds to me like you just offered to explain hybrid (or "direct to battery" as is more of a correct term) mechanical mods, how they work, and how to use them properly - in detail. I'm looking forward to reading your post.
I'm certainly not the one on the high horse or being Douchey, waiting for your explanation since you have offered.
Infectedlolipop
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thanks mate will check out
Infectedlolipop
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read articles watched that video posted above know ohm law i think im actually ready for hybrid mechs now i just didnt know about those flat and sticking out pins on atomizer
Even with the pin protruding, there isn't more than a millimeter or two between enjoying a vape or making a pipe bomb. Even the best insulators could soften to cause the mech to short out. Its my opinion but I'd never use or buy a mech or any hitter that doesn't have a 510. I still like mech vaping as long as the batts are good, the vape really begins to suffer as the battery ages with time. The box mod compensates the tired battery enough to keep the vape at a decent level then shuts down if the umph isn't there.
Just insure that you have a well protruding 510 pin on the Atty. This does limit the Attys you can use, the gain is small but noticeable. Also those are direct to battery connection aka faux hybrid, a hybrid is for example the Kennedy Ruby.
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Infectedlolipop
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got it um is tauren mech with tauren atty good setup or i should get something like athena squank kit or pulse box mod?
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jwill
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if you know your kit and check it before mounting (as one should with anything) the risks of a battery operated roman candle, dwindle tremendously if the setup is designed for its use and is used as it is designed. 1-2mm is a lot more clearance than most mechanical tolerances and is pretty forgiving. Engine part fitments are in the .001 tolerance range and no one really thinks about a metal shaving causing a piston to shoot out the side of an engine block (unless it has happened to you) . If you have gas appliances in your home the tolerances in those newer electronic valves are in the .01 to .001 range.
IMO there is no more danger in one type of unprotected device over another if the person wielding the device has invested some effort into learning how to use it safely. The key to all of this is personal responsibility.
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I have a few true hybrids, and many direct-to-battery type mods. If you want a true hybrid setup that won't break the bank, then I would suggest the Broadside mod with it's matching Culverin RDA. Both come with adapters so that they can be used with other mods and atties.
My world changed when I used my first direct to battery stacked tube set up. OMG, I am vaping a pipe bomb.
Seriously a newb who does not want to do the research and watch a few videos and ask a few questions should not be using ANY mech. If you don't know not to put your sub-ohm tank on a mech tube then do not use one. Well, there are a few RDTAs you can use but you bvest know what you are doing.
This is a conversation that never dies. Regulated users tax their batteries harder than mech users. I mean really - you have regulated mods pumping out 240 watts on two batteries. Hardly safe. Your mod heats up like a mofo. And I've seen disgusting battewry wraps being used by guys who like regulated devices. Mech users on the whole are a lot more careful with their gear.
I do agree that direct to battery mods play havoc with the tops and bottoms of your batteries. Over screw and you dent them. No question of that. I do agree that the Broadside has nice safety features (delrin insert and 510 cap and still hits hard). I don't agree that someone cannot use a direct to battery mod if he is new to mechs. He just needs some instruction and he needs an experienced guy to check his gear and his build. I routinely chain vape at .12 ohms on a single sony ... I'm not an idiot. I've been doing it for years. According to the pundits that is not safe. I've never had an issue.
I don't want to sound like a dick. I'm not knocking anyone. Vape how you feel best. I'm sticking to my 2/700 direct to battery tubes (which BTW are advertised and presented as hybrids.)
Seriously a newb who does not want to do the research and watch a few videos and ask a few questions should not be using ANY mech. If you don't know not to put your sub-ohm tank on a mech tube then do not use one. Well, there are a few RDTAs you can use but you bvest know what you are doing.
This is a conversation that never dies. Regulated users tax their batteries harder than mech users. I mean really - you have regulated mods pumping out 240 watts on two batteries. Hardly safe. Your mod heats up like a mofo. And I've seen disgusting battewry wraps being used by guys who like regulated devices. Mech users on the whole are a lot more careful with their gear.
I do agree that direct to battery mods play havoc with the tops and bottoms of your batteries. Over screw and you dent them. No question of that. I do agree that the Broadside has nice safety features (delrin insert and 510 cap and still hits hard). I don't agree that someone cannot use a direct to battery mod if he is new to mechs. He just needs some instruction and he needs an experienced guy to check his gear and his build. I routinely chain vape at .12 ohms on a single sony ... I'm not an idiot. I've been doing it for years. According to the pundits that is not safe. I've never had an issue.
I don't want to sound like a dick. I'm not knocking anyone. Vape how you feel best. I'm sticking to my 2/700 direct to battery tubes (which BTW are advertised and presented as hybrids.)