My experiences are the same. I haven't had any issues with the 510 connector on any of my LV mods and that includes my two Triade DNA250's.All my Lost Vape mods have a good quality 510
Cheers,
Steve
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Lost Vape Triade DNA250
- Thread starter Wingsfan0310
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Cheers,
Steve
+1 on the 510. It's one of the best I have, on par with a Varitube or FDV. I don't know if it's press fit, which would be a downgrade from the others, but it's nice. Most importantly it's deep. I'm so sick of devices with shallow 510's, seeing as most rdas are geared towards hybrids, and have long pins. I always appreciate a device that can sit almost every if not every atty flush. It's a rarity on a lot of devices these days.
I dig this thing. It gets warm charging, but 2 amps (globally I believe?) is a good amount of current for such a tight space. Some warmth is expected. I don't have issues with the DNA reulueax like so many do, but on this the battery sled is so tight it eats wrappers. I can't consistently get that last one in or out well. So charging in the mod is the plan.
I was having an issue where the device would power on and stick at a press up to continue screen. I did a hard reset and it's fine now. Reading suggested it's a random bug regarding the battery meter.
Thanks as always for the .ecig file @Wingsfan0310 even though your HG2 curve fucked up my device. (Sarcasm my friend). I appreciate it greatly.
I dig this thing. It gets warm charging, but 2 amps (globally I believe?) is a good amount of current for such a tight space. Some warmth is expected. I don't have issues with the DNA reulueax like so many do, but on this the battery sled is so tight it eats wrappers. I can't consistently get that last one in or out well. So charging in the mod is the plan.
I was having an issue where the device would power on and stick at a press up to continue screen. I did a hard reset and it's fine now. Reading suggested it's a random bug regarding the battery meter.
Thanks as always for the .ecig file @Wingsfan0310 even though your HG2 curve fucked up my device. (Sarcasm my friend). I appreciate it greatly.
It does get warm but charges quick.I take the battery cover off when using the onboard charging, it helps keep it cool.
Ha, I liked you again Wingsfan, We probably have more in common than less bro. I had to sacrifice a set of batteries in it. Now it is loose as a goose. They almost fall out now! Like any good machine you have to break it in. If you take a brand new Bimmer M5 and beat on it you will blow the motor in no time. You have to drive it easy for 5k miles. I am pretty sure the 510 is press fit but it is a good one. I would not at all be worried about Warm. Humans are not very Warm so it just seems that way. Hot would be a different story. I imagine I saved the paint before it peeled.
Such a simple but great idea. I should've thought of this. Mine doesn't really warm the batteries, it's in the front panel, so the board is warm. Again, current=warmth. But I'll start popping the cover off. Can't hurt for heat dissipation. Thanks man! Evolv is the only company that I trust charging my batteries with the board, in the mod. I have 10 bays available for others. This guy is just fast, and easier to charge in the mod.
I'm really impressed with this mod. Mine has some minor paint chips, don't think I made them, and the leather on mine isn't adhered great in one corner. Oh well. I baby my mods and this one isn't likely to leave the house frequently.
I've been vaping unregulated series boxes a lot lately, and it's really bad when you go from TC to a series box, and forget that your not on TC, and take a huge long pull. I may have done that a few times when my wick was drying up. I'm stupid.
On the topic of series boxes, wrong thread, I gotta vent. I had a new dual mosfet series box built and the first day within 5 minutes, the switch failed while firing. I couldn't un jam it, I think something was loose in it, so I popped my atty and batteries out. It continued smoking and stunk like shit. Batteries were not even warm and both at 4.10, fine. I'm waiting for confirmation of what happened, but the switch had arcing on the button and was welded in, thus auto firing. Contacts must have shorted in the switch, I'm surprised my batteries didn't vent or warm up. I'm just glad I have my hands and face. I took some pics in case the modder wanted them, but he was very cool. Scared the living shit out of me, I knew what to do, but I know I got kinda lucky. A sobering reminder that 8.4 volts to your face is no joke. Fuck. I can lol now. Live and learn, though I did nothing wrong. Experience!
/ventshareingvapestorydangerthreadjack. Lol.
+1 No kidding. That is enough Amps to put your ass right in the ICU. This shit is no fucking joke. Especially Mechs and Hybrids. These motherfuckers will kill your ass if something goes wrong. That is why I switched to DNA only. You can rely on DNA. As a last stop it has fuses. However don't be stupid and use the DNA as an Ohm meter as some people do. I know you guy's probably don't but Some cheap bastards think they are so smart until they wear their face on their shirt with their arm sticking out the mouth! Okay, sorry for graphic shit but this stuff is no joke. This will kill your ass for real but DNA most likely will not.
Well my paint peeled good. I figured that Fuckit. I don't really care. It is how the machine performs not how it looks. Ever go in a big factory? The machines paint is all off but they are humming along. I honestly do not give a shit about this. So not even going to call out LV. Who cares. That's my attitude. I drive a high end car. A young man smashed it. I got out and asked if he was alright. He said yeah but I don't think I am about to be.... I said take it easy it is just a fucking car I am glad we are both okay that's all. Cosmetic things do not matter. Now, I do get pissed when a mod fails because not smoking is important. Even then shit happens. Such is life dependent on machines.
Well my paint peeled good. I figured that Fuckit. I don't really care. It is how the machine performs not how it looks. Ever go in a big factory? The machines paint is all off but they are humming along. I honestly do not give a shit about this. So not even going to call out LV. Who cares. That's my attitude. I drive a high end car. A young man smashed it. I got out and asked if he was alright. He said yeah but I don't think I am about to be.... I said take it easy it is just a fucking car I am glad we are both okay that's all. Cosmetic things do not matter. Now, I do get pissed when a mod fails because not smoking is important. Even then shit happens. Such is life dependent on machines.
Well, after months of not being able to find a used Triade DNA200 that I was willing to buy, I was given the ability to purchase the Triade DNA250 at wholesale price through a shop owner friend of mine. What the website claimed as red leather actually came to me as purple ostrich. I'm ok with that, but I wanted the red leather cover to match the Therion DNA75 that I picked up in July of 2016 as a birthday gift to myself. Not wanting to send it back, I decided to order the cover I wanted, as well as a purple ostrich for the Therion...because after looking at and holding in my hand, I began to like. Now I can have both mods match each other.
My initial reaction was to the box. I've never seen one so well made. Since I actually keep the packages for each mod, and have them going back all the way to the Cana30, this was a no-brainer for me. I pulled the mod out of the box, and the battery door remained in the packaging, so I had to pry it out. No big deal, but a minor thing. I thought I was going to have issues putting the batteries in, but it was as easy as my RX200S that this mod replaces.
I quickly uploaded the same theme as my 75 to the 250, and got started. So far, so good. After nearly 24 hours with it, I'm enjoying it.
When the new covers come in, and the red leather gets the same wear and patina as the 75's cover, I'll be happy...so long as the paint doesn't flake or bubble up. If it does, I've already planned my counter assault, and will strip the frame, clean the rest of the crappy paint off, and send it out for poweder coat to match the same shade as the Therion.
Here they are, side by side, yesterday after getting the Triade set up and vaping. I like how both of them look great with my favorite tank, the Aromamizer Supreme. I think that it's the best tank I've ever used, and is a near perfect size for what and how I vape. Sure, I go through multiple tank fillings a day, but the flavor from them is the best I've ever experienced.
My initial reaction was to the box. I've never seen one so well made. Since I actually keep the packages for each mod, and have them going back all the way to the Cana30, this was a no-brainer for me. I pulled the mod out of the box, and the battery door remained in the packaging, so I had to pry it out. No big deal, but a minor thing. I thought I was going to have issues putting the batteries in, but it was as easy as my RX200S that this mod replaces.
I quickly uploaded the same theme as my 75 to the 250, and got started. So far, so good. After nearly 24 hours with it, I'm enjoying it.
When the new covers come in, and the red leather gets the same wear and patina as the 75's cover, I'll be happy...so long as the paint doesn't flake or bubble up. If it does, I've already planned my counter assault, and will strip the frame, clean the rest of the crappy paint off, and send it out for poweder coat to match the same shade as the Therion.
Here they are, side by side, yesterday after getting the Triade set up and vaping. I like how both of them look great with my favorite tank, the Aromamizer Supreme. I think that it's the best tank I've ever used, and is a near perfect size for what and how I vape. Sure, I go through multiple tank fillings a day, but the flavor from them is the best I've ever experienced.
Here's some welcome screens you might like for the Triade 250:
Cheers,
Steve
Cheers,
Steve
Thanks...I'll be using a couple of them
Well, I found something to comment about it that bugs me. The door that came with mine. While it fits nicely with the batteries in it, it shifts when I pick the mod up, making a clicking sound. It is slightly short and has a little play in it. While it's not indicative of the electronics, it is something that bugs me a bit. Hopefully the replacement doors that I ordered fit it a bit better.
You might be able to snug it up by taking the door off. Then squeeze the ends gently together (think of the door as a Taco shell and you are squeezing the open end together). Just try a little bit at a time. Retest and repeat as needed.You should be able to get it feeling snug.
Cheers,
Steve
The sides are perfect...the movement is up and down. Not by much, maybe as little as 0.010" or so, but enough to bug me. As a retired aerospace toolmaker, 0.010" is a country mile.
Lol I know is not funny for you but it is for me hahahahahaha
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It doesn't bug me, luckily, but I notice the same thing. Doors secure, just a verrrryyyy small amount, to use a car term, panel gap. It would pass the Chevrolet and G.M. Parts check, but BMW would send it back for a new door. Lol. Tolerances in the mass produced world aren't perfect, this one doesn't bother me. You aren't alone in noticing.
And I've been on a huge series box binge, ironically I've barely used this mod. I don't know if it's from factory, me knocking another mod, very lightly, into it while picking it up? But I do have a few spots of paint chipping. It's small so oh well.
This still is a great mod. The 510 on it is a dream. I'm so fed up with 510 connections. Even nice mods have issues, fat daddy vapes, varitube. They are the weak point and for TC a crucial point on any mod. I am just tired of 510s that can't sit flush today's rdas, which tend to have well protruding 510's. I've got a mod by Smoking Vapor, it's a cheesy tiny PWM mod, it puts out a hard punch of up to 180 watts. It performs. Moral of the story, the 510 on it is perfect. The magnets fall out of the battery door, there seems to not even be super glue to hold them. That's the kind of quality, but the thing fucking chucks and the 510 is perfect. If they can do it, on a shitty cheesy little mod, there's no excuse on a DNA mod. 510 connections have been the standard for long enough that it seems they're here to stay for better or worse. Can we get some consistency in such a crucial component in the industry? It's not like they're expensive to produce.
Cliff notes:
End 510 rant. That's Not applicable for this mod, it's 510 is great, lol.
Yeah I have the gap, too. And my paints chipping a bit. Love the 510 and love the mod.
I wouldn't get to vocal about your love of the 510. Another user will come on and tell you how it's a Chinese POS 510 using a rubber grommet and is terrible even though no one has had any issue with it.
Me personally it's been about as robust a 510 as I have on any of my devices.
Lol. Well, if xenophobia tied to someone's Vape device is a personality trait they possess, that's too bad for them. I agree with you. This is one of the most robust 510's I've had, too. I'm somewhat ashamed to say I have 27 boxes of various brands and types to compare it too. Lol. I have a few attys that have extremely long 510's, and are problems with many devices. This mod has taken all of them, and the insulator hasn't been compressed, nothing.
The thing they did was raise the 510, so there's actually room for the pin to travel. That's pretty much the issue with most 510's. Real estate is valuable when trying to fit a chip and the biggest battery possible in a given space. It seems the 510 being shallow is the common design decision. Case in point. My U.S.A. Flawless Tuglyfe DNA 200 with a Fat Daddy Vapes 510 compressed very shortly after getting it. I didn't abuse it, its just shallow as hell.
The 510 gaskets at Kidney Puncher are awesome, since I've brought 510's into this. I can't recommend them enough. If you've got attys that won't sit flush it solves the problem, and it protects the mod and atty. It's one of those cheap but worthy buys.
Bottom line this mod is nice. All around, and it looks classy too.
So far I've spent most of the time with my triades in power mode as i cannot get a consistent vape with my ss430 builds when i first screw the tank on and it asks if it's a new coil i get a really good vape for about five minutes then it becomes totally weak and i barely get any vapour or throat hit. I cleaned the 510's, I've experimented with various preheat strengths but then it occured to me the fact i get exactly the vape I'm looking for when i first attach the tank means the problem isn't with the tank or the coil. It's probably something in escribe I'm missing but very frustrating and given my ml class works flawlessly with all the tanks I'm starting to think i should have got one g class instead of two triades even though the mod itself is a solid good looking mod.
I'd try locking the resistance if you haven't already. I know this chip shouldn't need it, but I find myself doing it almost always. I find with any TC mod if the atty is disturbed pretty much at all, it affects the resistance, and thus TC. The atty and build make a difference, but even pulling a top cap off and putting it back on can cause enough fluctuation that TC starts cutting power too soon, or immediately. I unscrew the rda and re screw it back down, no new coil. That solves it usually.
You may want to try another atty, also. Tanks aren't my thing, but it seems there would be more internal resistance than an atty. A different atty and snug connections, centered under the screws in the post holes may be worth a try.
Have you uploaded Steves profile? I used it and just changed my presets. Maybe post some numbers you have in escribe like mod resistance in this thread and you can make sure they're entered correctly.
Have you noticed what the resistance is when you first screw on the tank? Is it going down when your vape changes? Is the tank (coils) cool when you first screw it on (room temperature)?
I posted my Ecig file here for the Triade along with instructions on how to load it. If you haven't already tried it, why not give it a try. I mainly use SS430 in TC and my Triades (all my DNA mods for that matter) work great.
Link to my Therion 166, Triade250, VT133, Lavabox M DNA 75, and VF133 Configuration Files
Cheers,
Steve
Thanks guys yeah I've tried locked and unlocked no difference one of the first things i did was use your config files Wings like the screen changes they are better then the stock lost vape ones also used your hg2 config as those are the batterys i have. Resistance on the two supreme tanks i use are both .22 and drops to .20 when the vape goes weak which i don't know if that's normal for dna boards they are always at room temp when i first screw them on.
That shouldn't drop that much if they are at room temperature. I use Unkamen SS430. I tried some from Crazy Wire with bad results. I gently torch mine with a regular Bic lighter to get rid of the springiness before coiling. Lastly I make my wraps spaced. I gently pulse them to make sure they are heating from the inside out with no hot spots. I'm not sure what else to tell you other than that. I'll keep thinking and maybe something will strike me. Good luck!
Cheers,
Steve
f1r3b1rd
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The locking of the resistance can hurt more than help with TC.
Other than that... What wingsfan said
I use the 316 clapton wire from lightening vapes ot advanced vaping with no issue.
I don't torch it, but I do pulse it at low power until it starts to scorch (change color), then let it cool, wick it then take it off and put it back on(so that the board rereads the atty.
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I bought my wire from wireandstuff.co.uk always been good quality but I haven't been torching it so will give that a go and see if it makes a difference. Both triades are now on unlocked resistance as locking made no difference, just had a thought does dual coils make any difference to how the dna would work I'm still in yihi mindset a bit and single coil or double didn't make any difference but maybe it does with the dna.
If wire and stuff has the same SS430 as Crazy Wire (also in the UK) you will get terrible results. Using the TCR of .00138, I barely had any vapor. The TCR was way off (well imo the wire's formulation was off - if I had to guess I would say it has quite a bit of Nickel in it, thus raising the TCR). The SS430 from Unkamen is Nickel free and the wire profile from Steam Engine works like a charm. With the SS430 from CW, I had to raise the TCR from .00138 to between .00175-.002 to get a comparable vape.
PS I seem to remember Wire and Stuff is the same company as Crazy Wire. I wasn't the only one having problems with the SS430 from Crazy Wire. I believe @BoostAddict @f1r3b1rd @Infinite1 and @ShowerHead were having the same problems. This is what I use:
http://www.creatingunkamen.com/coll...e-nickel-free-introductory-sale-100-guarantee
Cheers,
Steve
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Try loading this profile, you will probably get much better results if it's the same wire as CW (It sure sounds like it is). You will have to change the file extension to .ecigprofile I had to change to extension to .txt to upload it here because .ecigprofile is not a supported file type.
PS You would select SS430 and load it here in the General Tab. Then click on Upload Settings to Device to save the changes to your mod. You could also just change the TCR yourself if you know how to do that. If you want me to send you the file without the extension change, PM me you email address and I'll send it that way.
PS You would select SS430 and load it here in the General Tab. Then click on Upload Settings to Device to save the changes to your mod. You could also just change the TCR yourself if you know how to do that. If you want me to send you the file without the extension change, PM me you email address and I'll send it that way.
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Roger that, I was one that had some issues with the crazy wire.
Luckily the 316 hasnt given me any issues. It did at first, as all new things. It was just finacky getting a new built rolling.
But, since then evolv did some updates and it's been trouble free for quite a few months now. The new board has been especially flawless and smooth; which, is why I never bothered trying it again. I would still think anyone new to it, should try both and see what they prefer.
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Luckily the 316 hasnt given me any issues. It did at first, as all new things. It was just finacky getting a new built rolling.
But, since then evolv did some updates and it's been trouble free for quite a few months now. The new board has been especially flawless and smooth; which, is why I never bothered trying it again. I would still think anyone new to it, should try both and see what they prefer.
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0.22? Isn't that a bit low for proper TC vaping? I've not used that specific SS wire before, as I use SS316L, but I've always read and understand that the closer to 0.5 you get your coils, the better off you are.
Am I wrong??
Am I wrong??
Theoretically. Think of it this way, if the resistance reading off by .01-.02 it's a bigger percentage of error of .2 ohms than it would be of .5 ohms. That being said my dual SS430 coils come out to around .31 ohms and I don't have any issues.
Edit If you ever used Ni200 (the original wire for TC) you will find it very difficult to get above .1 ohms with a dual coil setup. What's theoretically best isn't always practical/possible.
Cheers,
Steve
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That was the case with nickel(but it was a 0.1) You needed a large enough resistance for the mod to calculate ∆Rt.
Usually that meant upwards of a 10wrap coil. With the newer mods and metals used, it's about the quantity of metal as well as its relationship to ∆Rt.
Also with the older devices using a dual coil was much more difficult to get accurate performance.
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That makes sense.
Mine did same paint pealing off so took some p600 and a little polish now need to do the doors ,got 2 diffrent ones a yellow leather Original and the peacock leather version, will be sanding down the yellow versions door too ,
looks for a possible new type of wrapp or coating for the door
It actually looks quite good as SS type colour polished up , not finished it yet needs a bit finer paper an polishing but this gives you an idea of what SS version would be like ,
possibly carbon fiber would look good especially if place inserts on the face plate like therion has too, give it a new Unique look , feels lot smoother
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The crazy wire company has some great SS wires good prices too if your EU side of the pond , im UK so its a local UK suppliers , found there wires great service is fantastic had lots of free wires too had a delay on one order of several rolls of 50m 316L diffrent gauges an they sent me a few 100m rolls as giftsI agree 100%. Best 316SS wire supplier there is...Great company
very nice of them to do so Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk
Thanks for the kind words. I'm glad you like it. If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
Cheers,
Steve
I'd get something on the frame soon, else it will oxidize, and it's not pretty when it does. A bit of automotive clear should do it, if you decide to keep it bare.Mine did same paint pealing off so took some p600 and a little polish now need to do the doors ,got 2 diffrent ones a yellow leather Original and the peacock leather version, will be sanding down the yellow versions door too ,
looks for a possible new type of wrapp or coating for the door,
It actually looks quite good as SS type colour polished up , not finished it yet needs a bit finer paper an polishing but this gives you an idea of what SS version would be like ,
possibly carbon fiber would look good especially if place inserts on the face plate like therion has too, give it a new Unique look , feels lot smoother
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I can't figure out why some of us have no problem with the paint while some do. I bought my two Triade 250's right when they first came out and the paint looks the same now as when I bought them. Mine are mostly house mods though. I do use them, it's not like I have them in a glass case.
The only mod I had issues with the paint was one of my VT133's. I don't fault the mod though, it's mostly on the bottom and I used the hell out of it. I'm saying I wore it off. I will say it seems like heavy use can cause that with some Zinc Alloy mods.
Cheers,
Steve
The only mod I had issues with the paint was one of my VT133's. I don't fault the mod though, it's mostly on the bottom and I used the hell out of it. I'm saying I wore it off. I will say it seems like heavy use can cause that with some Zinc Alloy mods.
Cheers,
Steve
Mine is a house mod mostly as well. I do have my box mods displayed on a three tier rack, and they fill the thing up, and then some. I need more space, or to stop buying mods. My Triade 250 has some small chips, I have knocked another mod into it picking one up, that could've nicked the paint a bit. I think mine may have arrived that way though. My box was sealed, but the packaging that holds the mod was cracked, so it held in place, but probably moved a bit.
As far as others having paint issues, I think it all comes down to how you treat your mods. And I've found out lately that my version of treating a mod well is way more neurotic than some. I've been working with two guys who are now business partners and friends, on a liquid line since October. For many reasons our focus is shifting to hardware. The FDA has just made it too expensive for small businesses in the liquid industry. I could go on forever on this one, details will come formally once we are fully operational. But to the point, finally having two friends who Vape and are passionate hobbyists like myself has shown me I take extra good care of my mods. I'm always wiping juice off immediately, moving mods in anticipation to not get knocked over, you name it. My friends, and they know what they're doing regarding vaping and safety, just don't worry about them the same. Chipped paint, knocking over, juice. They don't worry like I do. I won't even pocket mods usually, let alone leave them in a cup holder or what not. I'm just extra vigilant. I've gotten many pocket t shirts since I've been vaping, lol. That's the perfect solution, but heavy mods pull your shirt down all awkwardly.
So simply, I'm guessing some of us here are like myself, and others have a different standard for what treating a mod well is. I wish I was less worried to be honest, but I keep my shit pristine. It also may come down to how you look at your vaping devices. I collect, and there's value to them for me, so I want to keep them nice. Really, it's just an appliance. As long as you maintain the device, the paint has no purpose, it's trivial. Again, I kinda wish that was my attitude. it is just paint. I'm mostly worried about threading and liquid, but I'm neurotic about paint as well.
Random FACT of the day. I heard if you paint a racing stripe on a DNA 250 mod, it will be a capable of 300 watts. I'm off to Walmart for some paint.
I think it has to be a QC problem. and it's not just Lost Vape. I have an Alien that looks like it just came out of the ox, and others have posted photos with horrible wear and paint loss with a week or two. Now maybe I/we treat our mods with more care, but it's odd that I've had good luck with everything I've purchased while others have had numerous problems. Given that I'm not prone to incredible good luck, it's clear that there can be manufacturing defects which some folks may exacerbate in their treatment, even if gentle.
I always wonder if getting spilled juice on the mod will affect the paint adhesion, so even small accumulations might be sufficient to kick off the process. Once one small area begins to blister it interferes with adhesion adjacent and keeps on rolling even if no further exposure occurs.
I have zero evidence to support that, and am trying to find some common connection of those plagued with finish problems and those without.
They were talking about this exact subject on Not Another Vape Show. Mike Vapes says that the reason for paint issues on mods is because of the lack of a primer.
Variety's the very spice of life, that gives it all it's flavour.
-William Cowper
I dont think they are, i have not seen any on there instagram or any other pics. Ill keep you posted if i here anything. But for now it seems they are only on the Therion.
Those will look sick on the Triade DNA250. I got myself the Triade and I'm really impressed. I have brown leather and looking to get the snake leather. Last I heard from LV that they were going to make the snake skin panels but didn't get any update.