Anyone out there got a good build for a Mad Hatter RDA/NoisyCricket unregulated series mech mod? Trying to get my ohms to read at a .5 but it seems any builds I try end up catching fire immediately unless they read at 1.1 or higher
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Mad Hatter/NoisyCricket mod combo
- Thread starter Sketchy1037
- Start date
I'm still no vape God, but I have the noisy cricket (it's my go to mod) and I run .5-.8 ohm usually 24 Gauge Kanthal 2.5mm in diameter. The 2.5 gives you more surface area which takes a little longer to heat up so your build won't catch on fire. Also after you build and you do your dry burn getting out the hot spots and such you need to use a different mod something that doesn't send 8.4 unregulated volts to a freshly unfired coil. Hope this helps.
Edit: Also make sure your running dual coil not single
Edit: Also make sure your running dual coil not single
Im using the Mutation X4 (Much like the Mad Hatter with Side Airflow options also...
I like my vape a bit warmer then most do so I run it around .4, but I would recommend staying between .55-.9 Ohms. You want long coils with a wider diameter for better wicking and less chance of burning your cotton.
My last few Noisy Cricket Builds:
I like my vape a bit warmer then most do so I run it around .4, but I would recommend staying between .55-.9 Ohms. You want long coils with a wider diameter for better wicking and less chance of burning your cotton.
My last few Noisy Cricket Builds:
How many wraps are in your build? And right now the best build I've got for it is a single coil 12 wrap with 32 gauge Clapton but it reads at a 1.18 ohms
I usually do 12-14 Wraps around 2.5mm diameter and come out to around .5-.6 ohm. Use Steam Engine to calculate how many wraps you need to do there is a website and I believe an android app. This way no matter what you're building you can put in your gauge and your diameter and know exactly how many wraps you will need. Also be sure to check your ohms and make sure it's safe to use with your batteries using the Ohm's Law calculator on Steam Engine. (Most good batteries are somewhere around 20 AMP rated) It needs to be a dual coil build so that power has somewhere to go.
When you run dual coil it 1/2's your ohms so if you did that exact same build and put another clapton in it would be around .55 Ohm
raymo2u Quick question for you since you have the Noisy Cricket and the Phenotype L. Do you feel as though the pin on the Phenotype protrudes enough to be safe on a hybrid mod? I've been doing double takes on mine when I change the batteries and it's about 1 mm out maybe a little less and I know 1mm is the minimum recommended for safe use of a hybrid top cap. I was just hoping for your Two Cents
Well to be honest I d0ont suggest it for others but I feel safe enough to do it...If you want to use it and have some sand paper or dremel/grinder then take out the pin and everything on it and grind a half of a thread down so it protrudes more.
As long as your battery top if flat and undamaged and you dont crank down on the rda you wont do much to make it dangerous, if you crank it down you risk bending the battery plate and hard shorting/venting your batteries.
I feel pretty safe about it simply because I check it so much and never crank down the RDA. I check to make sure my batteries aren't dented everyday. I think I may grind down a little, but the Phenotype is just so nicely made I don't want to go messing it up... plus it wasn't the easiest Atty to find.
Buy clones for replacement parts...I buy clones more often then authentic's just to try things out, if I like it Ill buy the Authentic...and then buy 2 or 3 more clones
Yea square wire is pretty damn expensive...they make it in 316L and 304 SS.@raymo2u
304 SS LINK and 316L LINK, I suggest you clean it up very well before use and dryburn it to make sure its clean before use, sometime it can have a weird taste at first and this will remove it.
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I've been running a .3-.37 with a 3mm ID, and I've been getting a great vape. Its a hot vape though. If you don't like it to be super warm then I wouldn't recommend it.
Thanks! I've been wondering this ever since I started making coils, how much easier it would be for some builds if it was squared off. Or just twisting a single strand to make "Twisted" wire.
When I was taking welding and blacksmithing in school, we made hot and cold twisted rods for various projects, and one of them was Chrome Twisted rods for a custom low-rider bike (more or less like this):
Although incredible gawdy, it was also incredibly fun to build, and has always since intrigued me. Now that I build coils, every time I see a low rider bike I always think "This could make a badass coil, except there's no square vape wire
" well I guess I was wrong, gonna have to get my hands on some of this, this could help alot of my ideas come to fruition and make some awesome coils (and TC to boot )
I used to have one from Altzan Cycles and a Vintage Schwinn Krate...that was almost 10 years ago though...I rocked the Blue Velour seat and 144 spokes and only had the twisted fork/seat post/pedals/ape hangers/ and kickstand, the fork was more angled and the bike almost touched the ground....Ill see if I can find something similar so you get the idea....Thanks! I've been wondering this ever since I started making coils, how much easier it would be for some builds if it was squared off. Or just twisting a single strand to make "Twisted" wire.
When I was taking welding and blacksmithing in school, we made hot and cold twisted rods for various projects, and one of them was Chrome Twisted rods for a custom low-rider bike (more or less like this):
Although incredible gawdy, it was also incredibly fun to build, and has always since intrigued me. Now that I build coils, every time I see a low rider bike I always think "This could make a badass coil, except there's no square vape wire
It was alot like this one but the frame was chrome and the seat was royal blue, the rest was chrome with twisted trim here and there. I did have the full length fenders on it though..The fork was stretched out further in the front and the bike had a lower profile then this:
The bikes that catch my eye now are these 20" Choppers:
Those are some pretty bikes. I love all bikes in every shape and size, but the one we were making was ungodly. EVERY single thing was Chrome (even the seat was stitched with silver thread), and every single piece was Twisted Chrome. The seat post, pedals, frame, fork, backrest bar, handle bars, the fenders were quad parallel twisted rods, even the spokes in the rims for the custom 16" mini wheels, EVERY SINGLE PIECE!
It was an eyesore and a half, but oh so much fun to build, and hey, when someone drops like 10g for a custom bike, who am I to judge? lol
Me and my buddy are gonna work on a little summer project, toss together semi-mini chopper frame, and have an entirely enclosed, electric rear inner-hub. 8000W / 144V / Dual 100Ah Power Packs (built into the frame, closed body) gonna be flying past traffic at like 130k/h, gonna be pretty fun lol.
@Sketchy1037 sorry for sort of high-jacking your thread
Where do you order your wire from...I've been looking for the best site to buy from because most of the Brick and Mortars I've been in either only sell 10-30 feet or if they do sell more than that it's ridiculous... Like I would like to get some 100-200 foot spools so I can just build without worrying... I want to try and Alien Wire build because the wicking looks aweseome but I know I will need to do it a few times to get it right and I need more wire from the gate.
I order from here when stocking all the gauges at once, cheaper then buying single spools of each.
LINK for Kanthal (24g-34g/100ft each)
LINK for N80 (26g-36g/100ft each)
Kanthal D LINK, click the store to his other other listings for it..
Some gauges are missing and its not complete buy this is the most cost effective method of buying them and then buying singles for the rest. Look for Kanthal D as its cheaper but retains all the characteristics you would want for vaping.
I did a new build on my Noisy Cricket this morning.... I'm liking this build a lot heres what I did exactly. 24 Gauge A1 Kanthal 3.0 MM diameter 14 Wraps exactly comes out to 0.61 Ω
It seems to be the perfect mixture of flavor heat and vapor for my vaping style..I like a warm vape, but it can't be exremely hot and can't have muted flavor. Anyway hope this helps you out...I know it's nothing fancy, but it's an easy build that you should be able to do relatively easily.
What is Kanthal D just a lower grade of Kanthal??? I know Kanthal A1 is supposed to be "best quality" If it retains everything and is clean and tastes the same then thats an awesome tip.
Heres what Ive posted a while ago in the "Post your builds" thread.
It has the same exact content as A1 except less Aluminum is in it and it has a slightly lower Max Heat Temp.
Resistance/ Temp Rating of Kanthal we can use for vaping....
Kanthal Max. continuous operating temp. Resistivity at 20ºC (68ºF)
Kanthal A-1 (wire) 1400 (2550) 1.45 (872)
Kanthal A (wire) 1350 (2460) 1.39 (836)
Kanthal D (wire) 1300 (2370) 1.35 (812)
Kanthal A1:
Specifications
- 22% chromium (Cr), 5.8% aluminum (Al), Iron (Fe) balance
- Density: 7.1 g/cubic cm
- Tensile strength: 680 n/mm²
- Melting Temperature: 1500°C (2732°F)
- Maximum Operating Temperature: 1400°C (2550°F)
- Density: 0.256 lbs/cubic in.
- Specific heat capacity @ 68°F: 0.11 Btu/lb°F
Specifications
- 22% chromium (Cr), 4.8% aluminum (Al), Iron (Fe) balance
- Melting Temperature: 1500°C (2732°F)
- Maximum Operating Temperature: 1300°C (2370°F)
- Density: 0.262 lbs/cubic in.
- Specific heat capacity @ 68°F: 0.11 Btu/lb°F
Kanthal A1 wire has a slightly higher melting temperature and tensile strength and is more commonly found in large industrial applications. Kanthal D is usually used for small home and small-scale applications.
Kanthal D would actually be more suitable for vaping due to the reduced Aluminum Content in it