Mechanical mod build question...help!

[Jixil]

The

I don't use tube mods (my only mechs are squonks) but I have never seen anyone that uses them regularly use an RTA on them, especially one with factory coils. I would suggest you get an RDA with a protruding 510 pin for your mech.

The blitzen and fancier are rtas, but are not using factory coils in them. The valyrian and prince tanks uses factory coils. I'm getting good results with one of the rtas and one of the factory tanks, but not with the others and I couldn't figure out why so I was just seeing what everyone else here thought

 

[fozzy71]

The


The blitzen and fancier are rtas, but are not using factory coils in them. The valyrian and prince tanks uses factory coils. I'm getting good results with one of the rtas and one of the factory tanks, but not with the others and I couldn't figure out why so I was just seeing what everyone else here though

I know they are RTA you build but as I said no one that uses mech tubes regularly that I see actually use any sort RTA on them, they drip into RDA's.

 

[Jixil]

I know they are RTA you build but as I said no one that uses mech tubes regularly that I see actually use any sort RTA on them, they drip into RDA's.

Ah ok..gotcha. I have a dead rabbit rda I've wanted to test on it but haven't yet. It has a squonk pin on it at the moment and I don't really feel like changing it out. I'll do this at some point...

I don't see why an RTA wouldn't work though. Like I said, I'm getting good results with the blitzen.

 

[The Cromwell]

Factory coil tanks on a mech without a 510 center pin aka a hybrid mech can be very dangerous.
Never use a factory coil tank on a hybrid style mech.
That practice is responsible for several blow up in yer face events.

 

[Jixil]

Factory coil tanks on a mech without a 510 center pin aka a hybrid mech can be very dangerous.
Never use a factory coil tank on a hybrid style mech.
That practice is responsible for several blow up in yer face events.

Wait, but the panzer does have one?

 

[jwill]

I don't use tube mods (my only mechs are squonks) but I have never seen anyone that uses them regularly use an RTA on them, especially one with factory coils. I would suggest you get an RDA with a protruding 510 pin for your mech.

I never use factory coils but I do regularly use tanks on tube mechs. I have a bunch of tanks that have protruding center pins for hybrids and I use non protruding tanks on non hybrid tubes frequently.

The only real dangers (obvious aside) is knocking over the mod and breaking the glass and putting a non protruding center pin on a hybrid.

 

[jwill]

Wait, but the panzer does have one?

Panzer is fine for pretty much everything. Asking this question raises my eyebrows on mech skills. You may want to back up for a minute and reevaluate priorities and start with basic nomenclature, mech mode anatomy and safety.

Then start putting on tanks.

 

[Branpro]

Personally, I’m not vaping any coil I can’t inspect at any given time on a mech. That’s just me though. I do recall my earlier days of vaping, and the crazy issues with mass produced coils. I’ve had a hard short out of nowhere with those (luckily on a regulated every time). Not going to beat a dead horse, I fully agree with all of the battery and build input given.

 

[Jixil]

Panzer is fine for pretty much everything. Asking this question raises my eyebrows on mech skills. You may want to back up for a minute and reevaluate priorities and start with basic nomenclature, mech mode anatomy and safety.

Then start putting on tanks.

I know the difference and I was pretty sure of the answer. But when Cromwell brought it up, it just made me question myself.

 

[The Cromwell]

Wait, but the panzer does have one?

I dunno. Not familiar with the Panzer.
If it has a 510 center pin you should be ok if you can look down the hole in the mod were you screw the atty and see the battery top then NO factory coil
Tanks.

I just threw that in as a general safety announcement.

 

[The Cromwell]

I never use factory coils but I do regularly use tanks on tube mechs. I have a bunch of tanks that have protruding center pins for hybrids and I use non protruding tanks on non hybrid tubes frequently.

The only real dangers (obvious aside) is knocking over the mod and breaking the glass and putting a non protruding center pin on a hybrid.

Sliding or non protruding center pins on the tanks is the issue on hybrid mods.

If the pin on the tank goes up in beyond the outer threaded part of the tank 510 then a direct short happens on a hybrid mod and you are keeping firing it and wondering why it is not working and then boom in the face as the tank jets off into your face followed by spewing fire.

 

[jwill]

I know the difference and I was pretty sure of the answer. But when Cromwell brought it up, it just made me question myself.

Yeah sorry, I was reading your post wrong. medication I am taking makes me a little loopy.

 

[jwill]

Sliding or non protruding center pins on the tanks is the issue on hybrid mods.

If the pin on the tank goes up in beyond the outer threaded part of the tank 510 then a direct short happens on a hybrid mod and you are keeping firing it and wondering why it is not working and then boom in the face as the tank jets off into your face followed by spewing fire.

I am aware of the difference and design. I have quite a few tanks that have protruding center pins and use them regularly on hybrid mods. Thanks though for the response. Always good to look out.

 

[Carambrda]

@Carambrda
"a single 20 amp battery such as the LG HG2 it is recommended to stay at or below .2 ohms"

He means at or ABOVE 0.2 ohms

Thanks for catching that mistake. I edited my post.

 

[Carambrda]

Since he is all about educating new mech users, I figured pointing that out as needing correction was necessary.

I'm not "all about" educating new mech users. If mech users want to stay below the CDR of their battery of choice, then for reasons that are obvious, they have every right to do so, but the advice of staying below it is generally only recommended to those who are new to the mech because it is still perfectly possible to not overheat the battery and to not tax the battery to absurdly high levels despite going above the CDR on the mech. If you go above the CDR on the mech, the worst that can happen is you'll vent a battery. If you don't hold the button down for too long, then the battery won't heat up that much, either internally ("hot spots" inside the battery) or externally (the battery temperature measured on the outside of the battery). In addition, if you wait long enough between pulls, then you're giving the battery enough time to cool back down again. As soon as you feel something is getting a little bit warm in there, just put the mod down for a couple of minutes. I have been vaping on a single VTC5A at .11 ohms on a daily basis for more than a year. This isn't to say there is no added risk after you decide to do this. But by not letting the battery temperature go above 45°C (113°F) you can still mitigate that added risk, down to a level that you might find very reasonable at .11 ohms on a single VTC5A because, with the battery fully charged, after you take a few pulls that don't even last 2.5 seconds (which they don't need to anyway, as that's how powerful the vapor production is when using a dual coil aliens build of 27g / 36g Nichrome80), the VTC5A doesn't even feel lukewarm yet. So you can moderately chain vape on it at .11 ohms without actually even taxing the battery hard. It all boils down to knowing when it's time to put the mod down. And of course never letting the button inadvertently get stuck or get pressed by accident for a long period. (Perhaps it's not the best analogy, but a similar principle applies to the gas pedal of your car.)

 

[Juicy-j]

www.illumn.com

I think they have them for 5.99 each right now and free case with each 2 you buy.
The only place I buy batteries.

It is a Battery Mooch approved vendor.
I live in KY and usually get mine no more than 3 days after the day I order on.

Thanks cromwell, I'm checking that out an getting some. Here's another noobish question for you.
Do you know of any mechanical tube mods that use 21700 batteries?

 

[Juicy-j]

I'm not "all about" educating new mech users. If mech users want to stay below the CDR of their battery of choice, then for reasons that are obvious, they have every right to do so, but the advice of staying below it is generally only recommended to those who are new to the mech because it is still perfectly possible to not overheat the battery and to not tax the battery to absurdly high levels despite going above the CDR on the mech. If you go above the CDR on the mech, the worst that can happen is you'll vent a battery. If you don't hold the button down for too long, then the battery won't heat up that much, either internally ("hot spots" inside the battery) or externally (the battery temperature measured on the outside of the battery). In addition, if you wait long enough between pulls, then you're giving the battery enough time to cool back down again. As soon as you feel something is getting a little bit warm in there, just put the mod down for a couple of minutes. I have been vaping on a single VTC5A at .11 ohms on a daily basis for more than a year. This isn't to say there is no added risk after you decide to do this. But by not letting the battery temperature go above 45°C (113°F) you can still mitigate that added risk, down to a level that you might find very reasonable at .11 ohms on a single VTC5A because, with the battery fully charged, after you take a few pulls that don't even last 2.5 seconds (which they don't need to anyway, as that's how powerful the vapor production is when using a dual coil aliens build of 27g / 36g Nichrome80), the VTC5A doesn't even feel lukewarm yet. So you can moderately chain vape on it at .11 ohms without actually even taxing the battery hard. It all boils down to knowing when it's time to put the mod down. And of course never letting the button inadvertently get stuck or get pressed by accident for a long period. (Perhaps it's not the best analogy, but a similar principle applies to the gas pedal of your car.)

Well said. Im a believer in knowing your gear and working in parameters that you are comfortable with.

 

[The Cromwell]

Thanks cromwell, I'm checking that out an getting some. Here's another noobish question for you.
Do you know of any mechanical tube mods that use 21700 batteries?

Sorry but no.
I think that Dean the vaping Biker has done some reviews on some.
All my Tube mechs are 18650. And I have seldom used them in the past couple of years.

 

[Branpro]

Thanks cromwell, I'm checking that out an getting some. Here's another noobish question for you.
Do you know of any mechanical tube mods that use 21700 batteries?

I recently grabbed the Dreamer by timesvape , and have been running 21s. Not many great batteries out there for choices, I recommend the Samsung 30Ts. IMR goes in and out of stock quickly, so be active with the hunt lol.

 

[The Cromwell]

Illumn recently sent me an email about the Vapcells they have in stock.
Mooch seems to like them.

 

[Carambrda]

Some nice tube mechs that can support 21700 batteries are the Overpowered (from overpoweredmodco.com) and the Sarov (by Vaperz Cloud). The only 21700 mech I have is the Scoundrels FUK 182021 (pic below). I am using Vapcell INR21700 35A 3100mAh purple batteries in it. They are rewraps of the Samsung INR21700-30T.

 

[CrazyChef v2.0]

I have the Overpowered with the stack section and can attest to the fact that it's a great mod. My only beef with it is the fact that it's the same size as a 26650 tube. It uses 20700s, and includes 18650 tube adapters. Quite hefty.

 

[jwill]

While nowhere near as exciting as the above mods. This U-Yo stacked can be had for $50 and can be operated as a 1, 2 or 3 X 18650 mod. It is smooth as a single, a bus as a double and a freight train as a triple. I bought this in each color so in theory I could do 9 X 18650 (although I haven't because it would likely explode). This mod is an excellent value (IMO)

 

[Fudgey Finger]

While nowhere near as exciting as the above mods. This U-Yo stacked can be had for $50 and can be operated as a 1, 2 or 3 X 18650 mod. It is smooth as a single, a bus as a double and a freight train as a triple. I bought this in each color so in theory I could do 9 X 18650 (although I haven't because it would likely explode). This mod is an excellent value (IMO)

Are there pins in between the cells or do they just stack on top of one another?

 

[jwill]

Are there pins in between the cells or do they just stack on top of one another?

Its a wide open tube. Button top batteries, washers or magnets. Ive been experimenting and magnets seem to be the best (so far)