Mod Heat

[VaporOwl]

So I finally started messing with twisted or braided wire and I have to say it is a dream! Not only does it vape like a beast but I swear it's easier to wrap.

I've got my infinite CLT and FT tree of life with a .2ish (only one decimal place on my SMOK multimeter) coil. Based on the single coil resistance I think it's .25 or higher. Vapes fine, even heating, Efest 35A 2500 mAh battery in the tube.

After a few hits the button gets hot. It doesn't feel like a short because it still vapes quite well. Do you think this is just high current flowing through the mod and a small amount of metal in the switch resulting in me feeling the heat quickly? The battery is still cool, I've checked it. It's just to top cap/atomizer deck and button.

It might also be my CLT, the center pin needs to be unscrewed slightly otherwise it sits too flush and has trouble firing. It's actually caused my slug trigger to heat up with a .3 or .4 setup.

Also, a secondary question: is it worth getting a different spring? Someone on FT was complaining about the spring being chromed and conical (one side is bigger than the other) and that it collapsed on him. Mine hasn't had that problem but how much does conductivity in my spring affect things?

Cheers,
Owl

 

[BigNasty]

The spring might be a weak point.

You could have a small short or arc.. is the ToL a hybrid cap?

 

[Celtic Fog]

some springs are made to collapse when there is a short and it gets to hot. Are there any scratches on your battery? Also, worth taking the mod apart and cleaning it with a toothbrush to make sure there is no loose metal inside your mod, no residue oils. Also, I read to make sure your positive end of the coil is not touching the walls or deck on your atty. Hope you can get this figured out!

 

[VaporOwl]

It's not the hybrid cap, it's using the Infinite CLT. My coils are cleanly centered so I don't believe that to be the problem either.

Scratches on the battery are a possibility. I think there is a small ring indentation on the negative end from where the switch contacts the battery. Nothing deep and gouging but definitely a mark. I'll look into finding a better spring as well as give the whole mod a good cleaning. Any tips for spring selection? Best metals to choose, recommended suppliers, etc?

 

[Celtic Fog]

maybe replace with a magnet switch upgrade?

 

[Cloudy Peak Vapes]

The spring might be a weak point.

You could have a small short or arc.. is the ToL a hybrid cap?

Definitely check for arcing. Does your button fire with less punch, in certain positions? I had an issue with contacts doing that, and it heated the button up too. It was strange since it's always been no fire, or fire on my mods, but this one always fired, just sometimes barely. If this is happening, there might be a contact issue on the negative pin in the switch, I had to wet sand a bur, and that fixed it for me.

 

[Liu]

Yeah, my first instinct for a hot button is to check that your contacts don't have any burrs, and that the two pieces of the switch, usually the stationary bit that threads into the tube, and the mobile bit that's composed of the contact and the... thing you actually push on, make enough contact with one another.

A lot of times a coating of machine oil between these can impede conductivity, too.

I don't know the ToL specifically, but the comments suggesting the spring may be a point of resistance is a common issue with a lot of mechs. A magnetic switch upgrade may just solve the problem altogether. Either way, a good disassembly and cleaning couldn't hurt either.

 

[VaporOwl]

I'll definitely give it a cleaning. I'll have to give it a measure and find some nice magnets as well. The button has always been so-so to me, so it's about time for an upgrade.