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My hybrid limitless sucks???

Tobbez98

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Hi! Just got my limitless hybrid from ebay home (i know its fake) made a dual clapton and put in a freshly charged battery in, started vaping and... Almost nothing??? Reading 0.4ohm and felt like vaping at 15w, build a dual 22g kanthal 0.12ohm and tried, worked alot better but still not anywhere near the vapor on the videos and stuff, what am i doing wrong????
 

raymo2u

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You need to use the mechs wattage to your advantage....Try 3 x 26AK1 in Parallel 4 wraps/3mm ID....that will change your experience of it

Please be sure your using ATLEAST 20a CD batteries using this build
 

SirRichardRear

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Hi! Just got my limitless hybrid from ebay home (i know its fake) made a dual clapton and put in a freshly charged battery in, started vaping and... Almost nothing??? Reading 0.4ohm and felt like vaping at 15w, build a dual 22g kanthal 0.12ohm and tried, worked alot better but still not anywhere near the vapor on the videos and stuff, what am i doing wrong????
what battery are you using? I'm hoping it's an LG HB6 and even then the lowest should be .14 not .12
 

conanthewarrior

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Eleaf 35A
Ok, please get a battery from one of the bigger manufacturers, we have no idea what is actually under that wrapper, and it is not a 35A battery- the highest are the LG HB series which are 30A cells, the HB6 is just 1500MAH, in general for a battery to be high amp, it has a low capacity, or vice versa.

Once you have a safe battery for your needs, you can move onto building something that uses enough surface area to create the amount of vapour you want, but at the resistance you are building with an unknown battery it is really not safe.
 

Tobbez98

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Ok, please get a battery from one of the bigger manufacturers, we have no idea what is actually under that wrapper, and it is not a 35A battery- the highest are the LG HB series which are 30A cells, the HB6 is just 1500MAH, in general for a battery to be high amp, it has a low capacity, or vice versa.

Once you have a safe battery for your needs, you can move onto building something that uses enough surface area to create the amount of vapour you want, but at the resistance you are building with an unknown battery it is really not safe.

Cant I check the amps somehow?
 

conanthewarrior

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Cant I check the amps somehow?
Not really no, without specialist testing equipment to monitor the temperature of the battery during its discharge at a given amp load, even then you can't really label the batteries amp rating yourself.

I would recommend at least some 20A CDR cells, such as a Samsung 25R. If you really need the extra amps, the LG HB6 will be the one to go for, but expect much shorter battery life.

What capacity is the battery you currently have? And is it Eleaf, or Efest? Either way it would be a re wrap, and we can not be sure which battery it is a rewrap of unfortunately, only what it was when it was tested.
 

jonathanmark1401

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I always use 25r samsungs. Reliable and proven. 0.21ohm on niN80 gives me a perfect parallel coil build! And perfectly safe


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Tobbez98

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Not really no, without specialist testing equipment to monitor the temperature of the battery during its discharge at a given amp load, even then you can't really label the batteries amp rating yourself.

I would recommend at least some 20A CDR cells, such as a Samsung 25R. If you really need the extra amps, the LG HB6 will be the one to go for, but expect much shorter battery life.

What capacity is the battery you currently have? And is it Eleaf, or Efest? Either way it would be a re wrap, and we can not be sure which battery it is a rewrap of unfortunately, only what it was when it was tested.
Oh thats right, its a efest not eleaf lol, well i'll order some samsung 30amps instead, is it really that bad to charge them in a box mod instead in a real 18650 battery charger?
 

conanthewarrior

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Oh thats right, its a efest not eleaf lol, well i'll order some samsung 30amps instead, is it really that bad to charge them in a box mod instead in a real 18650 battery charger?
Ok, well a lot of the Efest batteries have tested out to be 20A batteries from manufacturers like LG and Samsung, but you can not be entirely sure with re wraps which is why they are not recommended.

Which Samsung battery will you be going for that is 30A? I mainly use 25R's, those are 20A though, or LG HE4's which are also 20A. They offer 2500MAH, and are my preferred battery for mechs. There are 30Q's and HG2's which are 3000MAH, but I use these in regulated mods.

I don't own any HB6's myself, but if you plan on builds above 20A, and up to 30A the HB series is the only real, safe option, but due to the capacity you won't get the best run time.

You may be surprised though what you can get out of 20A, so I would look into different coils and try some different builds, and on your regulated box mod if you can while learning.

It is better to use an external charger for mods that use more than one battery, some mods like the DNA200 have a built in balance charger so charging in one of those is OK, but many others don't offer balanced charging so you do really need an external charger, and it will make things much easier for you in the future too :).
 

Tobbez98

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Ok, well a lot of the Efest batteries have tested out to be 20A batteries from manufacturers like LG and Samsung, but you can not be entirely sure with re wraps which is why they are not recommended.

Which Samsung battery will you be going for that is 30A? I mainly use 25R's, those are 20A though, or LG HE4's which are also 20A. They offer 2500MAH, and are my preferred battery for mechs. There are 30Q's and HG2's which are 3000MAH, but I use these in regulated mods.

I don't own any HB6's myself, but if you plan on builds above 20A, and up to 30A the HB series is the only real, safe option, but due to the capacity you won't get the best run time.

You may be surprised though what you can get out of 20A, so I would look into different coils and try some different builds, and on your regulated box mod if you can while learning.

It is better to use an external charger for mods that use more than one battery, some mods like the DNA200 have a built in balance charger so charging in one of those is OK, but many others don't offer balanced charging so you do really need an external charger, and it will make things much easier for you in the future too :).
I was about to buy sony vtc4 or what they are called, its a 30A battery
 

nightshard

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If 147W max which is roughly what you're getting with your 0.12 build is not enough for you, I suggest you either switch to parallel mech and build lower or to a serial mech and build higher.

Like the others said, 0.12 is too low and not safe.
 

conanthewarrior

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I was about to buy sony vtc4 or what they are called, its a 30A battery
You could use the VTC4, here is some test results for the VTC4 (Sorry it is here, just the only place I know of mooch's tests).
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...ts-a-20a-cell-that-can-be-used-to-30a.684876/

Definitely get yourself an external charger too, a dual bay nitecore I2 can be had cheaply now and will serve you well. I imagine with some better batteries, you may find you don't need to build so low, it could be anything under the wrapper and voltage drop would be huge at that resistance, especially with lower quality cells.
 

nightshard

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Oh thats right, its a efest not eleaf lol, well i'll order some samsung 30amps instead, is it really that bad to charge them in a box mod instead in a real 18650 battery charger?
Samsung don't make any 30A 18650s and neither does Sony.
The only 18650 batteries with true 30A ratings are LG HB2/4/6.

Sony VTC4 is 23A.
 

Tobbez98

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Samsung don't make any 30A 18650s and neither does Sony.
The only 18650 batteries with true 30A ratings are LG HB2/4/6.

Sony VTC4 is 23A.
Why is sonys vtc4 labeled as a 30A?
 

Tobbez98

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Riptippers made a "cloud chasing 101 part 2" and he built a 0.09ohm coil and started vaping on a single mech mod, how is that even possible?? And he never explained why and never answered the comments on the video
 

stmtpr

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They are "labeled" 30A but that doesn't mean they are safe at 30A. Please look at Mooch's tests.
 

SirRichardRear

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Why is sonys vtc4 labeled as a 30A?
Because they overrate their batteries. It's like a chick asking why u told her u have a 12 inch cock when u don't lol. Only pay attention to moochs tests.

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SirRichardRear

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Riptippers made a "cloud chasing 101 part 2" and he built a 0.09ohm coil and started vaping on a single mech mod, how is that even possible?? And he never explained why and never answered the comments on the video
He's an idiot if he did that. He's popular enough that he has responsibility to inform vapers. .14 is the lowest u should build on a single mech mod and that's using lg hb6 batts

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nightshard

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The fact that someone selling it writes down something doesn't mean squat.
Even Sony don't rate it as 30A.
So no it's not.

Even Sony themselves show it to reach around 100C at 30A
image-jpeg.539150
 
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jonathanmark1401

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Can anyone tell me what voltage is the limit to take a 25r down to on a mech before recharging her sweet little ions?


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conanthewarrior

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Why is sonys vtc4 labeled as a 30A?
It is rated by Mooch as a 20A battery, that can do 30A if you really want it too. Ideally though, you want to stick somewhere that is safe- up to 23A at most with the VTC4.

EDIT: Quoting mooch :This is a 20A cell that can be forced to run at up to 30A if you're willing to accept a shorter cycle life and reduced margin for safety in case your mod autofires or your mech's button is accidentally pressed in your pocket."

You could push it to 30A, in short bursts, but read Mooch's test results on the battery, he has done some great testing of many batteries that is a big help to us vapers. It is not ideal to use the VTC4 at 30A.


Can anyone tell me what voltage is the limit to take a 25r down to on a mech before recharging her sweet little ions?


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According to the 25R datasheet, it can be used down to 2.5V- but you will want to pull a lot earlier than this. I usually pull at around 3.6V, as below that the performance in a mech really drops off, and you have to remember the voltage under load is lower than resting voltage. Depending on your build, it will depend how much voltage drops under load, there isn't really a hard set limit as everyone vapes differently.

I personally would not use a battery below 3.4-3.5V, but again this is dependant on your build and something that should ideally be known before using a mechanical mod. A regulated mod takes a battery much lower than this but has many protections in place,and is ideal for the majority of vapers.
 

sacullen

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Answer1: When your vape is crap, charge it.
Answer 2: Feel free to take it down to 3 volts.

From Mooch: While stopping at 3.4V, 3.6V, or even higher might extend battery life a bit you are missing out on a lot of additional vaping time that you could use before needing to recharge. That additional vaping time can be enjoyed every day for, at most, just the cost of one extra set of batteries a year. Stopping at these higher voltages won't hurt the battery though. Just let the batteries sit for an hour before charging to see what their true resting voltage is when deciding how low you want their voltage to go in your mod.
 

jonathanmark1401

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It is rated by Mooch as a 20A battery, that can do 30A if you really want it too. Ideally though, you want to stick somewhere that is safe- up to 23A at most with the VTC4.

EDIT: Quoting mooch :This is a 20A cell that can be forced to run at up to 30A if you're willing to accept a shorter cycle life and reduced margin for safety in case your mod autofires or your mech's button is accidentally pressed in your pocket."

You could push it to 30A, in short bursts, but read Mooch's test results on the battery, he has done some great testing of many batteries that is a big help to us vapers. It is not ideal to use the VTC4 at 30A.



According to the 25R datasheet, it can be used down to 2.5V- but you will want to pull a lot earlier than this. I usually pull at around 3.6V, as below that the performance in a mech really drops off, and you have to remember the voltage under load is lower than resting voltage. Depending on your build, it will depend how much voltage drops under load, there isn't really a hard set limit as everyone vapes differently.

I personally would not use a battery below 3.4-3.5V, but again this is dependant on your build and something that should ideally be known before using a mechanical mod. A regulated mod takes a battery much lower than this but has many protections in place,and is ideal for the majority of vapers.

Yes my tesla invader iii takes them down to around 3.43v. I'm happy around 3.6v. I run a parallel build at 0.21ohms. Safety line for the 25r


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conanthewarrior

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Yes my tesla invader iii takes them down to around 3.43v. I'm happy around 3.6v. I run a parallel build at 0.21ohms. Safety line for the 25r


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Well, if you are running a parallel build that is more than safe with a 25R- if your build at 0.21 works well, stick with that, as I use around 0.25-0.3 with a mech running 4.2V. As you are using a parallel set up, you have even more headroom for safety, and could run a lower build.

I am not suggesting you do this though if your 0.21 build works well for you, but a parallel set up offers you (in a perfect scenario) double the available amps. A series set up would not, but the higher voltage usually means people run slightly higher resistance builds. In series, 20A would still be the limit, but with 8.4V available, while in parallel you have 4.2V on tap, but with a lot more headroom amp wise.
 

jonathanmark1401

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Well, if you are running a parallel build that is more than safe with a 25R- if your build at 0.21 works well, stick with that, as I use around 0.25-0.3 with a mech running 4.2V. As you are using a parallel set up, you have even more headroom for safety, and could run a lower build.

I am not suggesting you do this though if your 0.21 build works well for you, but a parallel set up offers you (in a perfect scenario) double the available amps. A series set up would not, but the higher voltage usually means people run slightly higher resistance builds. In series, 20A would still be the limit, but with 8.4V available, while in parallel you have 4.2V on tap, but with a lot more headroom amp wise.

My tesla only runs to 6.6v. But....I'm intrigued now Mr barbarian :) if I'm doing a twin coil setup at .21 ohms, how can I go lower as I told this was the limit for the battery?

And if so, how low is safe to build as I normally enjoy a 0.15ohm build on my invader. That's my sweet tooth of ohmage :)


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conanthewarrior

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My tesla only runs to 6.6v. But....I'm intrigued now Mr barbarian :) if I'm doing a twin coil setup at .21 ohms, how can I go lower as I told this was the limit for the battery?

And if so, how low is safe to build as I normally enjoy a 0.15ohm build on my invader. That's my sweet tooth of ohmage :)


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I have to apologise here, I read your post as you was running a parallel mod- not a parallel coil set up. I thought it was a parallel mech you was running.

I am not familiar with the Tesla myself, but if it is a regulated mod, you can go as low as you want- resistance doesn't actually matter in this case, only watts do. It looks like a PWM style mod from a quick google search, I don't actually own one of these myself in the collection, so haven't researched deeply how they work like I have with regulated mods and mechanical mods.

If however it works like a regulated mod, you can run as low as the mod allows safely, ohms do not matter in regard to amp load on your batteries. I would wait until someone more familiar with this style mod can answer though just to be sure :)
 

jonathanmark1401

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My tesla only have slight regulation. It's my single tube mech mod I was asking about. I use a parallel coil setup on one 25r at .21ohms. That's the safety line for the battery. 84watts


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conanthewarrior

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My tesla only have slight regulation. It's my single tube mech mod I was asking about. I use a parallel coil setup on one 25r at .21ohms. That's the safety line for the battery. 84watts


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Hi mate.

I understand what you mean now- I didn't feel very well yesterday, so probably was not reading posts as clearly as I should of been.

I already see you mentioned you run a lower build on your invader, I missed that part, so apologies there.
In regards to the lowest you can go on your tube mech, with a 20A cell like the 25R .21 Ohms is the lowest resistance without exceeding it's CDR of 20A.

I got a bit confused where I read you was using a parallel setup, and mistakenly though you meant a parallel battery set up lol. Apologies again for the confusion.

However, how do you find your build at 0.21? On my most recent tube mech (I usually use regulated mods, but have been using my newest mech for a few weeks now which is a long time for me), I have a simple dual coil, 26G SS316L 2.5MM build at around 0.25 Ohms cold. This seems plenty powerful for me, and I find I am pulling at around 3.6V.
I am quite impressed with the battery life, in general I haven't used mechs much due to battery life, but this new setup seems to last well enough for me to use alone.
 

jonathanmark1401

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Hi mate.

I understand what you mean now- I didn't feel very well yesterday, so probably was not reading posts as clearly as I should of been.

I already see you mentioned you run a lower build on your invader, I missed that part, so apologies there.
In regards to the lowest you can go on your tube mech, with a 20A cell like the 25R .21 Ohms is the lowest resistance without exceeding it's CDR of 20A.

I got a bit confused where I read you was using a parallel setup, and mistakenly though you meant a parallel battery set up lol. Apologies again for the confusion.

However, how do you find your build at 0.21? On my most recent tube mech (I usually use regulated mods, but have been using my newest mech for a few weeks now which is a long time for me), I have a simple dual coil, 26G SS316L 2.5MM build at around 0.25 Ohms cold. This seems plenty powerful for me, and I find I am pulling at around 3.6V.
I am quite impressed with the battery life, in general I haven't used mechs much due to battery life, but this new setup seems to last well enough for me to use alone.

Ah man, hope you feel better soon. It's fine for the misunderstanding. I use nichrome n80 flatwire. 3mm diameter at I think 6wraps, mod is not to hand. Battery life I seem to find lasts me about half a day if I use the mech all day. Maybe onto a third battery depending on how late I stay up. She does seem to drain pretty fast at .21ohm but she's my sweet spot. Warm, fast and flavourful. For a single tube mod she pumps out some cloud!

I have a dripper on my mech so I don't vape it as much as I can't be bothered to re juice all the time, hence why I have my limitless xl with standard quad coil on my tesla. I was on regulated ones for along time but I just get bored, there's nothing spectacular about them and they production line. Mechs and series seem to be a lot more customisable


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conanthewarrior

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Ah man, hope you feel better soon. It's fine for the misunderstanding. I use nichrome n80 flatwire. 3mm diameter at I think 6wraps, mod is not to hand. Battery life I seem to find lasts me about half a day if I use the mech all day. Maybe onto a third battery depending on how late I stay up. She does seem to drain pretty fast at .21ohm but she's my sweet spot. Warm, fast and flavourful. For a single tube mod she pumps out some cloud!

I have a dripper on my mech so I don't vape it as much as I can't be bothered to re juice all the time, hence why I have my limitless xl with standard quad coil on my tesla. I was on regulated ones for along time but I just get bored, there's nothing spectacular about them and they production line. Mechs and series seem to be a lot more customisable


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Thank you for the well wishes mate :).

OK, I haven't actually worked with N80, or flatwire myself. I will have to give some a try though as I like experimenting.
That sounds pretty good in regards to battery life, I find myself getting through around 2 HE4's a day with my current build. They are new, I tend to try and get new batteries with a new mod, and I get either 25R's or HE4's depending which is cheaper at the time in the UK.

Yes, I am quite impressed with the tube mech I am using at the moment for cloud production and performance. It is a Wotofo Phantom, along with a Wotofo Lush RDA. Not high end by any means, but the majority of my mechs are clones so my only authentic mech, and for the price it is a solid performer that I am more than happy with.

I enjoy dripping myself, although I do tend to use RTA's more often than RDA's. I have built up a lot of them over the time I have vaped, I do have favourites though that get a lot more use than others.

The Limitless XL is one that I don't actually have though, but I hear good things about it. I personally usually vape regulated most of the time, but for the past fortnight have gone mechanical with the new mech. I enjoy regulated for a vape I know will be consistent, and if I go out for the day it is a regulated mod I will take. Mechs do have a certain charm to them though, and I do understand their appeal.
 

yasaboss

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Riptippers made a "cloud chasing 101 part 2" and he built a 0.09ohm coil and started vaping on a single mech mod, how is that even possible?? And he never explained why and never answered the comments on the video
It called pulse vaping not taking a 10 second drag it easily possible with hardly any battery heating up, when using a mech at that resistance youre not firing it more than 3 seconds avg
 
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All the amp ratings on batteries is the peak amp. They maintain 20a but can peak to 30-45a. That doesn't mean its completely safe however.

I build 0.09ohm dual parallel nichrome 80 24g 4 wraps. I use them for cloud comps.

And I know guys that run .09-.1 ohms all day long on tube mods.

You shouldn't but they dont care.

I suggest the LG or Samsung at .15 - .25 ohm with Nichrome. I own 2 authentic limitless mods and thats where I keep them.

If you want to test your batterie. Goto a store called "the battery store" they are everywhere now and can do a full test.
 

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