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Need advise for Mason 30mm RDA please

Psychobunny

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Hey guys, Happy Friday.. Yaaaaaay :bliss:

Got this Mason 30mm version RDA.. I know it's been around a long time, but it's new to me.
I love having all this room to build on, and it's like a fog machine for the cloud chasers.. but
I cant get much flavor from it... I have only used my own 22ga kanthal wire, in this case, 9
wraps and 4mm... takes 10cc of juice just to prime it...
Any suggestions on how to maximize the flavor?
I have it closed down as far as I can go...

mason 01.jpg

mason 02.jpg
 

SirRichardRear

AKA Anthony Vapes on Youtube
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Reviewer
Hey guys, Happy Friday.. Yaaaaaay :bliss:

Got this Mason 30mm version RDA.. I know it's been around a long time, but it's new to me.
I love having all this room to build on, and it's like a fog machine for the cloud chasers.. but
I cant get much flavor from it... I have only used my own 22ga kanthal wire, in this case, 9
wraps and 4mm... takes 10cc of juice just to prime it...
Any suggestions on how to maximize the flavor?
I have it closed down as far as I can go...

View attachment 89688

View attachment 89689
Bigger build, more watts, close the top air (if possible) and use the side only. Build so the bottom of the coil is just visible though the side air
 

Psychobunny

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Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Bigger build, more watts, close the top air (if possible) and use the side only. Build so the bottom of the coil is just visible though the side air

Ok, did all that.. I have it so only a tiny bit of the 2 side vents are open.. I noticed when I do that, the little vent hole is way off
to the end of the coil, so I rotated the tank so it would be centered with the coil... I also moved the coils a little closer to
the vents and switched coils from 9 wrap 22ga to 12 wraps (spaced).. I am getting very good flavor now, almost as good
as my Vandy Vape 24, which has awesome flavor.. Thanks much 4 the advise :)
 

Psychobunny

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Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
The Vapergate Gemini RDA does not have top air so nope, like usual your "experience" in vaping is not relevant here, either...


Everybody sees these top holes and thinks they are vent holes... they are not, they go nowhere... I think they are just for show.. or heat sinking...
 

r055co

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Also with a 30mm device you want to build a bit hotter/rowdier than what you would normally on a =<25mm device, there's more real estate and air. Example I usually like on a 25/24mm device around 0.18Ω to 0.19Ω but on a 30mm device I'll build around 0.14Ω to 0.18Ω.

Additionally when you build, build the coils with at least 3.5mm di and I recommend using SS Fused Claptons.
 

r055co

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I do love my 26650 devices ;)

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Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
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Member For 5 Years
I own four 30mm RDAs, but I'll only ever use them on my Vapergate The 99 and Vaperz Cloud Hamer Of God v3 "King" / v3.1 "The Four Horsemen". IMO vaping at 8.4 volts is what these RDAs are intended for─dual coil builds at .23 ohms and 8.4 volts might seem outrageous to some, but they're really not. It just depends on whether you like fast draws, what types of metal you've got in there, and how much metal. Compared to a 30mm, my Purge Mods Head Shot RDAs are tiny─their build deck is like only 19.5mm in diameter, yet, despite this, I still vape one of them at .28 ohms and 8.4 volts. That's over 190 watts on a fused clapton dual coil build with 27g Kanthal A1 / 38g Nichrome80 at 6 wraps and 3mm inner diameter. Most vapers I know can't vape on it because their draw is far too weak and long like they're expecting 45 watts or something like that so the juice all turns into blue smoke making them cough their lungs out. lol
 

Psychobunny

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Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Also with a 30mm device you want to build a bit hotter/rowdier than what you would normally on a =<25mm device, there's more real estate and air. Example I usually like on a 25/24mm device around 0.18Ω to 0.19Ω but on a 30mm device I'll build around 0.14Ω to 0.18Ω.

Additionally when you build, build the coils with at least 3.5mm di and I recommend using SS Fused Claptons.

I have a roll of ss fused clapton wire coming in the mail, so that will be my next test.
Right now, I am using the Bob Wire that comes with the rda... it's 22ga, i think.. i make 4mm coils, and found that 12 wraps is better
than 7 or 8 on this rda.. need to crank it up to 100watts.. getting good flavor, not great.. cant wait to try the fused claptons...
 

Psychobunny

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Less diameter of the coil will make better flavor aswell. :)

Do you mean how fat the wire is or the size jig used to wrap? I have found (only with this 30mm Mason), the fatter the better, and I am
using 4mm jig.. using kanthal core claptons right now, but I keep experimenting with different stuff. I am determined to get max flavor
from this thing because I really do like it.. I also found that more wraps improves the flavor.. Went from 6 to 12 wraps (spaced, not
contact). I am getting ok flavor, sometimes.. when I first dump fresh juice on it, it's great, after several puffs, flavor is gone, even though
there is plenty of juice in there.
 

MWorthington

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Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
Less diameter of the coil will make better flavor aswell. :)

That's not necessarily true. You've got to have an adequate amount of vapor production in relation to chamber size and drip tip size. In an atty like the Mason, that's usually accomplished with huge coils and a lot of power to them. Once you get the juice vaporized, you've got to have airflow which the Mason isn't lacking from what I understand.
 

MWorthington

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Member For 4 Years
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I am getting ok flavor, sometimes.. when I first dump fresh juice on it, it's great, after several puffs, flavor is gone, even though there is plenty of juice in there.

I've been fighting that phenomenon for the last 2 years trying to figure out the problem. As soon as you find out, please let me know! :)
 

Psychobunny

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That's not necessarily true. You've got to have an adequate amount of vapor production in relation to chamber size and drip tip size. In an atty like the Mason, that's usually accomplished with huge coils and a lot of power to them. Once you get the juice vaporized, you've got to have airflow which the Mason isn't lacking from what I understand.


I agree.. BIG ASS coils are the way to get flavor out of this thing....
PS. And yeah, you need 90watts or more.....
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
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Member For 5 Years
I've been fighting that phenomenon for the last 2 years trying to figure out the problem. As soon as you find out, please let me know! :)
My guess would be there's just not enough cotton in there to cover the large surface of the bottom of the deck. Large coils and short wicks (relative to the length of the coils) don't seem to gel all well together... I ordered both the 24mm and the 30mm Gemini, expecting them to be delivered sometime next week so will keep ya posted between the post holes. lol
 

Psychobunny

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Oh shit!! I stripped one of the grub screws.. the RDA is now useless... :(
 

Psychobunny

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Is it the screw itself stripped? What kind of screw is it?

Or, are the threads in the atty stripped? Either way, it's not hopeless. Fixes are available if you're a little bit handy with tools.


It's a Philips head grub.. small.. I was trying to remove the coil, and it's totally stripped.. the Philips slots are not deep
enough for the screwdriver to get a good purchase.. I would have to drill it out, and re-tap the threads.. too small.. lol
So, it's pretty much trash....
But, it teaches me a lessen on what to look for when I buy a RDA...
 

MWorthington

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
You don't have to drill it. If you can find the tap, all you have to do is run the tap in the hole. You need to find a tap just 2 or 3 thousandths bigger than the existing hole and run the tap in it. It doesn't even have to be metric as long as it's bigger by about the depth of the threads and it'll need to be a flat bottomed tap. Unless the tap costs as much or more than buying a new atty of course.

If you can find the tool, I guarantee it'll work though. I've done it many times on aluminum engine heads when a bracket bolt strips out. You just have to be careful and take your time with it. Then just get a screw the size of the new threads.

You may have to order the tap if you're like I am around here. I can't just run to the parts store and buy a precision tool like that.

That being said, at the end of the day it all depends on whether you feel like tackling it or not and is it worth it. I understand your frustration completely. In a case like that, if it's not something I can't live without, I put it aside for a while and think about it. You never know, in a week or so, you might decide to give it a try. ;)
 

EMusic

Gold Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
It's a Philips head grub.. small.. I was trying to remove the coil, and it's totally stripped.. the Philips slots are not deep
enough for the screwdriver to get a good purchase.. I would have to drill it out, and re-tap the threads.. too small.. lol
So, it's pretty much trash....
But, it teaches me a lessen on what to look for when I buy a RDA...
That really sucks. Sorry to hear it. :(
 

r055co

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It's a Philips head grub.. small.. I was trying to remove the coil, and it's totally stripped.. the Philips slots are not deep
enough for the screwdriver to get a good purchase.. I would have to drill it out, and re-tap the threads.. too small.. lol
So, it's pretty much trash....
But, it teaches me a lessen on what to look for when I buy a RDA...
I've built up a supply of grub screws, so every device I get that has Slot or Phillips heads first thing I do is pull out those strip prone screws and replace with grub screws.
 

Psychobunny

Bronze Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
I've built up a supply of grub screws, so every device I get that has Slot or Phillips heads first thing I do is pull out those strip prone screws and replace with grub screws.

Well, I dont know about you, but I will never buy another rda that has these shitty, shallow ass grubs.. no matter if philips or hex, they
are all shit... Even if the design is awesome, that will kill the deal because they simply dont last.... it's stupid to over-design a high-end
rda, then stick grub screws in it that are not even wide enough for 26ga round wire.......
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
Vapergate are selling replacement titanium screws through their official website. As for getting the stripped screw to come out, you could try JB Weld... just use it to weld an old screwdriver into the head of the screw whilst making sure to not spill any JB Weld onto the deck or binding posts, use something like masking tape or whatever to carefully hold the metal in place, and then let the JB Weld set for 24 hours. JB Weld is pretty strong after it's completely dry so if you push the screwdriver hard enough taking extra care not to break it off, then it should grip.
 

Psychobunny

Bronze Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Vapergate are selling replacement titanium screws through their official website. As for getting the stripped screw to come out, you could try JB Weld... just use it to weld an old screwdriver into the head of the screw whilst making sure to not spill any JB Weld onto the deck or binding posts, use something like masking tape or whatever to carefully hold the metal in place, and then let the JB Weld set for 24 hours. JB Weld is pretty strong after it's completely dry so if you push the screwdriver hard enough taking extra care not to break it off, then it should grip.

Well, I could probably have done something with it, but I lost my patience and the rda went in the trash..
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
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^^ I already ordered both it and the 24mm version last Tuesday. Expecting them to arrive within the next 24 hours.
 

Psychobunny

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OK, I dug it out of the trash.. been working on it with several different screwdrivers.. it's stuck in there for sure, only way
to get that screw out is to drill it out:

Sorry for the crapy iphone pics:

screw 01.jpg

screw 02.jpg
 

Psychobunny

Bronze Contributor
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Member For 1 Year
I'm happy to hear you rescued it from the trash. Even if you can't fix it, someone else will surely want it.


I would give it to someone, cuz the black optional top piece is lost, and of course, the screw thing... I am not likely to mess with it
cuz i dont even own the right tools...
 

EMusic

Gold Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
I would give it to someone, cuz the black optional top piece is lost, and of course, the screw thing... I am not likely to mess with it
cuz i dont even own the right tools...
Post it in the Hardware forum at a reasonable cost and you may get lucky! :)
 

ShowerHead

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
OK, I dug it out of the trash.. been working on it with several different screwdrivers.. it's stuck in there for sure, only way
to get that screw out is to drill it out:

Sorry for the crapy iphone pics:

You could always try a flat head screwdriver that will fit, then tap it a few time with a hammer to 'set' the blade. I've done that 100s of times with different philips head screws over the years. Most times, it saved the trouble of drilling them out.
 

Psychobunny

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Member For 2 Years
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You could always try a flat head screwdriver that will fit, then tap it a few time with a hammer to 'set' the blade. I've done that 100s of times with different philips head screws over the years. Most times, it saved the trouble of drilling them out.


I did try that.. I was able to carve a slit in it with a Dremel and a tiny bit for flat head screwdriver.. but the metal is too soft.. didn't work...
 

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