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Need help of which awesome pre-made coil to get with Reload RTA

Chillaxman

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Hello all, I just ordered a Reload RTA by Reload Vapor and it's on it's way. I got this RTA because I heard it delivers awesome flavor. Now, I gotta admit and dont wanr to offens anyone but this is my first time getting an RTA and getting into premade coils and such, coming from vaping a sub-ohm tank. I really wanted to get the RTA because I heard the vaping experience and flavor is beyond better than a sub-ohm tank considering i have been vaping on a sub-ohm tank for 2 months and i would like to try the experience of an RTA.The mod I'm using is a SMOK Alien 220w with an LG 18650 battery. Now, could anyone recommend me a great pre-made coil that could match with this RTA, and safe as well with the mod and battery I listed? How much ohms do I need for each coils? Im looking to vape at around 45-80 watt becauseI'm planning to do a dual coil build. Also, is there any tips I could get with RTA, safety in general, and what gauge, wires, mm needed, and what coils to look out for in the future, etc?
 

gakudzu

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Member For 3 Years
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1. You could research various coils that appeal to you, see what they are made of, plug the numbers into steam-engine.org and it will give you an "optimal" wattage setting.

Or...

2. You could contact some of the builders/vendors here, tell them what you have and what you want, and let them blow your mind.

I build my own, but I'm tempted every day to explore the second option. These guys are masters.
 

Brad Mitchell

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
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I have been vaping on a triple core 28 gauge kanthal fused with 36 gauge kanthal. I really like it. Not sure who you can buy it from but advancedvapesupply.com has this same build but as stainless steel which is also great. My mod doesn't have a preheat or temp control so I chose to use kanthal instead.
 

Chillaxman

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
1. You could research various coils that appeal to you, see what they are made of, plug the numbers into steam-engine.org and it will give you an "optimal" wattage setting.

Or...

2. You could contact some of the builders/vendors here, tell them what you have and what you want, and let them blow your mind.

I build my own, but I'm tempted every day to explore the second option. These guys are masters.

Second option sounds good. Do you have any suggestions which vendors are good to contact? Also, i plugged in the numbers, as the voltage goes down, the wattage goes down as well, Does that mean i have to keep lowering down the wattage to match with the steam-engine.org's number? I know with pre-built coils on the sub-ohm tank, it tells you what watts it best vapes at, how do we find the number that best vapes up when calculating?
 

Chillaxman

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
I have been vaping on a triple core 28 gauge kanthal fused with 36 gauge kanthal. I really like it. Not sure who you can buy it from but advancedvapesupply.com has this same build but as stainless steel which is also great. My mod doesn't have a preheat or temp control so I chose to use kanthal instead.

Do you have the Reload RTA as well? How much ohm's did you pick for your coils?
 

gakudzu

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Member For 3 Years
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Second option sounds good. Do you have any suggestions which vendors are good to contact? Also, i plugged in the numbers, as the voltage goes down, the wattage goes down as well, Does that mean i have to keep lowering down the wattage to match with the steam-engine.org's number? I know with pre-built coils on the sub-ohm tank, it tells you what watts it best vapes at, how do we find the number that best vapes up when calculating?
Not sure about your wattage questions. I really don't use that particular feature of the calculator. Sorry.

A few great builders/vendors are @raymo2u and @b_d_builders. If you're in Canada(or maybe even if you're not) @whiteowl84. Shoot them a PM and have a chat.
 

Chillaxman

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Pre-made coils are garbage. We make real ones. Lol
Personally I like aliens and staggs in my reload.
4x 28g or 27g/26g frames and 6ply.
It's great for smaller builds like those for so many reasons.

Ah i see. Im not sure if im asking this question right but how much ohm's and how much watts are you vaping with those coils?
 

Raymcconn

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Ah i see. Im not sure if im asking this question right but how much ohm's and how much watts are you vaping with those coils?
That will depend on what you end up liking. I like 0.22 - 0.27 ohm and for watts I am anywhere from 52 - 62 depending on mod I am using. On wild days I will go to 70.
 

whiteowl84

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Ah i see. Im not sure if im asking this question right but how much ohm's and how much watts are you vaping with those coils?
For me 0.08 to 0.07 so I'm getting 220w on fresh batteries.

When I build for regulated mods I don't use the same materials and I don't use nearly as many parallel runs so the coils are over 0.1.

The ohm load doesn't pertain to regulated mods though. All that matters is if the mod will fire it. You get to determine what ever wattage you like.

Sent from my E5306 using Tapatalk
 

MWorthington

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
That will depend on what you end up liking. I like 0.22 - 0.27 ohm and for watts I am anywhere from 52 - 62 depending on mod I am using. On wild days I will go to 70.

For me personally, of the coils I've tried, I like around .2 to .3 myself. I have gone as high as .82 and as low as .09 but I had a problem with the atty not playing nice with my mod so I didn't get to try those. :)
 

whiteowl84

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That will depend on what you end up liking. I like 0.22 - 0.27 ohm and for watts I am anywhere from 52 - 62 depending on mod I am using. On wild days I will go to 70.
The ohm load isn't relevant if you're using a regulated mod and you can change the wattage.
If you do identical builds of A1 and n80 on a regulated mod and the resistance of the A1 is 0.2 and the n80 is 0.15, they'll still vape exactly the same way on a regulated mod.
The resistance only matters if you're using a mech because the load determines the power.
V/R=A and AxV=W

Sent from my E5306 using Tapatalk
 

Chillaxman

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
The ohm load isn't relevant if you're using a regulated mod and you can change the wattage.
If you do identical builds of A1 and n80 on a regulated mod and the resistance of the A1 is 0.2 and the n80 is 0.15, they'll still vape exactly the same way on a regulated mod.
The resistance only matters if you're using a mech because the load determines the power.
V/R=A and AxV=W

Sent from my E5306 using Tapatalk
Ah i see, ill keep that in mind, thank you for the info :)!
 

MWorthington

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Member For 4 Years
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Ah i see, ill keep that in mind, thank you for the info :)!

@whiteowl84 is right. For normal vapers, resistance doesn't matter one whit on a regulated mod. Those that vape in the 30, 40, or even 125 watt range, it doesn't make any difference.

For the rare individuals that want to vape at 220 watts on the alien, the sweet spot for the "A" model of the Alien at least, is .13-.14 ohms. Any lower than that and it either won't fire (not sure what the bottom limit is) or it starts hitting the amp ceiling and you won't get the full 220 watts. As you get higher in ohms, it hits the volt limit and the same thing happens. It won't put out 220 watts

This is only for folks trying to blow massive clouds or just like a really warm vape (or somebody doing testing). Average vaper will most likely never have to be concerned with any of that. I can guarantee I won't be vaping that high! ;)
 

Chillaxman

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
That will depend on what you end up liking. I like 0.22 - 0.27 ohm and for watts I am anywhere from 52 - 62 depending on mod I am using. On wild days I will go to 70.

Thank you for the reply, Gotcha. I just saw that you ohm's
@whiteowl84 is right. For normal vapers, resistance doesn't matter one whit on a regulated mod. Those that vape in the 30, 40, or even 125 watt range, it doesn't make any difference.

For the rare individuals that want to vape at 220 watts on the alien, the sweet spot for the "A" model of the Alien at least, is .13-.14 ohms. Any lower than that and it either won't fire (not sure what the bottom limit is) or it starts hitting the amp ceiling and you won't get the full 220 watts. As you get higher in ohms, it hits the volt limit and the same thing happens. It won't put out 220 watts

This is only for folks trying to blow massive clouds or just like a really warm vape (or somebody doing testing). Average vaper will most likely never have to be concerned with any of that. I can guarantee I won't be vaping that high! ;)

Thank you for the reply again, I just came off from a sub-ohm tank and i was worried a lot about best wattage needed. I guess its different when it comes to using RTAs on a regulated mod :). I guess for the average vaper like me, any coil would just do good when i only vape around 30, 40, or even up to 125 as long as it fires right?
 

Brad Mitchell

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Member For 4 Years
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The ohm load isn't relevant if you're using a regulated mod and you can change the wattage.
If you do identical builds of A1 and n80 on a regulated mod and the resistance of the A1 is 0.2 and the n80 is 0.15, they'll still vape exactly the same way on a regulated mod.
The resistance only matters if you're using a mech because the load determines the power.
V/R=A and AxV=W

Sent from my E5306 using Tapatalk
Now I'm pretty sure resistance plays a factor on the draining of batteries.
 

MWorthington

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
Thank you for the reply, Gotcha. I just saw that you ohm's


Thank you for the reply again, I just came off from a sub-ohm tank and i was worried a lot about best wattage needed. I guess its different when it comes to using RTAs on a regulated mod :). I guess for the average vaper like me, any coil would just do good when i only vape around 30, 40, or even up to 125 as long as it fires right?

Yes, even up to about 150 or so from what I understand. Here is a video where @SirRichardRear reviewed the alien and did extensive testing on it at various watts and coil resistances and shows the output in watts of each coil:


If you don't want to watch all the unboxing and measurements, skip to about the 7 minute mark where he shows his testing results. :)
 

SirRichardRear

AKA Anthony Vapes on Youtube
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Yes, even up to about 150 or so from what I understand. Here is a video where @SirRichardRear reviewed the alien and did extensive testing on it at various watts and coil resistances and shows the output in watts of each coil:


If you don't want to watch all the unboxing and measurements, skip to about the 7 minute mark where he shows his testing results. :)
:) thanks for the shotout
 

Chillaxman

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Now I'm pretty sure resistance plays a factor on the draining of batteries.

We'll, as long as i can vape it safely, im fine if it drains my batteries quickly or not. I can just recharge the batteries if it does run low. Unless if its dangerous on my batteries. Do i have to watch out for anything?
 

Chillaxman

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Yes, even up to about 150 or so from what I understand. Here is a video where @SirRichardRear reviewed the alien and did extensive testing on it at various watts and coil resistances and shows the output in watts of each coil:


If you don't want to watch all the unboxing and measurements, skip to about the 7 minute mark where he shows his testing results. :)
Thank you for the reply! That is a very helpful video you posted, will watch it for sure :)
 

Brad Mitchell

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Not really. Resistance alone won't affect battery drain. Only watts. More watts = more current to produce those watts. Current = battery drain.
I had a .09 at 90-100 watts I changed batteries about 3 times one day and the day wasn't done. Changed to .18 I think and finished the day with one set. I changed coils around 3pm I think. This was back in november

I think I had it set at 90ish on the new coils
 

Chillaxman

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I had a .09 at 90-100 watts I changed batteries about 3 times one day and the day wasn't done. Changed to .18 I think and finished the day with one set. I changed coils around 3pm I think. This was back in november

I think I had it set at 90ish on the new coils

Resistance does make a difference in battery life :). Great to know this info! I have decided to go between 0.3-0.8 ohms for each coils as im only vaping at around 35-80 watt anyway as i wont go any higher than that any time soon :)
 

MWorthington

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Member For 4 Years
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I had a .09 at 90-100 watts I changed batteries about 3 times one day and the day wasn't done. Changed to .18 I think and finished the day with one set. I changed coils around 3pm I think. This was back in november

I think I had it set at 90ish on the new coils

And that's exactly what I'm talking about. With a .09 coil it takes a given amount of current flow to produce 90 watts. At .18 ohms, it'll take half the current to produce the same 90 watts. Less current being drained from the battery = longer battery life.

But say you have the same .09 coil at 45 watts. It only takes half as much current to produce 45 watts as it takes for 90 watts, so the batteries will last longer.

So, it's all in how you look at it I guess. If you're talking about a set amount of power produced, like in the case of the iStick Basic or the eGo pens or in a mech which have no voltage or watts adjustment, then yes, a lower resistance will drain the battery faster because it's drawing more current from the battery.
 
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Chillaxman

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
And that's exactly what I'm talking about. With a .09 coil it takes a given amount of current flow to produce 90 watts. At .18 ohms, it'll take half the current to produce the same 90 watts. Less current being drained from the battery = longer battery life.

But say you have the same .09 coil at 45 watts. It only takes half as much current to produce 45 watts as it takes for 90 watts, so the batteries will last longer.

So, it's all in how you look at it I guess. If you're talking about a set amount of power produced, like in the case of the iStick Basic or the eGo pens or in a mech which have no voltage or watts adjustment, then yes, a lower resistance will drain the battery faster because it's drawing more current from the battery.

Thanks for the reply! Good info and insight you shared there :)
 

Brad Mitchell

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Member For 4 Years
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And that's exactly what I'm talking about. With a .09 coil it takes a given amount of current flow to produce 90 watts. At .18 ohms, it'll take half the current to produce the same 90 watts. Less current being drained from the battery = longer battery life.

But say you have the same .09 coil at 45 watts. It only takes half as much current to produce 45 watts as it takes for 90 watts, so the batteries will last longer.

So, it's all in how you look at it I guess. If you're talking about a set amount of power produced, like in the case of the iStick Basic or the eGo pens or in a mech which have no voltage or watts adjustment, then yes, a lower resistance will drain the battery faster because it's drawing more current from the battery.
Ok I see what you are saying but honestly are you going to like the vape from a set of coils that should be fired at 90 watts but only firing at half? In most circumstances just turning the power down doesn't work because if you vape at 90 on a coil then you must like that vape or else you would vape at 45. Therefore, to get a vape you like to increase battery life something else needs to change.
 

gakudzu

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It's not so much the lower resistance that affects battery drain, as it is the mass of the coil. More cores in a fused clapton will lower the resistance and increase the mass. More mass requires more power to heat. The lowered resistance and higher battery drain are byproducts of the increased mass.
 

whiteowl84

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@whiteowl84 is right. For normal vapers, resistance doesn't matter one whit on a regulated mod. Those that vape in the 30, 40, or even 125 watt range, it doesn't make any difference.

For the rare individuals that want to vape at 220 watts on the alien, the sweet spot for the "A" model of the Alien at least, is .13-.14 ohms. Any lower than that and it either won't fire (not sure what the bottom limit is) or it starts hitting the amp ceiling and you won't get the full 220 watts. As you get higher in ohms, it hits the volt limit and the same thing happens. It won't put out 220 watts

This is only for folks trying to blow massive clouds or just like a really warm vape (or somebody doing testing). Average vaper will most likely never have to be concerned with any of that. I can guarantee I won't be vaping that high! ;)
Shit I get 200w on a small build in the reload to get the heat I like. Dgaf about clouds.

Sent from my E5306 using Tapatalk
 

whiteowl84

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I had a .09 at 90-100 watts I changed batteries about 3 times one day and the day wasn't done. Changed to .18 I think and finished the day with one set. I changed coils around 3pm I think. This was back in november

I think I had it set at 90ish on the new coils
I'm going to make this as simple as I can.
The mod doesn't prevent user error. If you use a build that isn't efficient, if you aren't giving a build enough power or if you have to hold the button in before you put the atty to your face, the battery life will tank.
I've vaped plenty of 0.2 to 0.09 builds on regulated mods, the ramp up is the deciding factor.
I once vaped all my builds around 80w. Battery life sucked. When I went up to 130 it got waaaay better because power over time is the biggest strain on your batteries. 130w for a second pulls less mah than 80 for 2 or 3 seconds. The math is simple enough there.
Now to harder math.
Firstly your mod's using 2 charged 4.2v cells in series to make 8.4v which it steps down or up using silicon, chokes and buck converters.
At 100w using a 0.2ohm build:
100w/8.4v=11.9a

Now same 100w using a 0.1ohm build:
100w/8.4=11.9a

Look, the pack spends the same amperage to make 100w no matter what! Isn't math awesome?

Sent from my E5306 using Tapatalk
 

MWorthington

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
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I'm going to make this as simple as I can.
The mod doesn't prevent user error. If you use a build that isn't efficient, if you aren't giving a build enough power or if you have to hold the button in before you put the atty to your face, the battery life will tank.
I've vaped plenty of 0.2 to 0.09 builds on regulated mods, the ramp up is the deciding factor.
I once vaped all my builds around 80w. Battery life sucked. When I went up to 130 it got waaaay better because power over time is the biggest strain on your batteries. 130w for a second pulls less mah than 80 for 2 or 3 seconds. The math is simple enough there.
Now to harder math.
Firstly your mod's using 2 charged 4.2v cells in series to make 8.4v which it steps down or up using silicon, chokes and buck converters.
At 100w using a 0.2ohm build:
100w/8.4v=11.9a

Now same 100w using a 0.1ohm build:
100w/8.4=11.9a

Look, the pack spends the same amperage to make 100w no matter what! Isn't math awesome?

Sent from my E5306 using Tapatalk

If we were talking about an amplifier or a tv set, or even a radio transmitter, I'd be right at home. I'd be able to use plain old ohm's law to calculate volts, amps, resistance...hell, I can even figure capacitance and inductance if it was called for. This shit dealing with wire mass, ramp times and heat flux, flux capacitors and such is completely fucking me up! :) This is an area I've never studied before now. I really appreciate the education. I know you're losing patience, but this old dog can learn new tricks. Just bear with me, ok? :)
 

whiteowl84

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If we were talking about an amplifier or a tv set, or even a radio transmitter, I'd be right at home. I'd be able to use plain old ohm's law to calculate volts, amps, resistance...hell, I can even figure capacitance and inductance if it was called for. This shit dealing with wire mass, ramp times and heat flux, flux capacitors and such is completely fucking me up! :) This is an area I've never studied before now. I really appreciate the education. I know you're losing patience, but this old dog can learn new tricks. Just bear with me, ok? :)
It's simple, just don't do math. Everything is up to you so the numbers are just numbers.
Build something and fire it. If it's not hot immediately you need more power.
Not enough of something? Build bigger and add power.
If you're using a regulated mod there's really nothing to think about, you just fire stuff till you find what you like.
A mech is the same way but lower ohm loads are ideal.
You don't really even need to worry about the exact ohm load once you grasp the idea and what your batteries like. As low as I build I've yet to actually make a battery hot. I have to chain vape to even get anything warm.

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MWorthington

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ECF Refugee
It's simple, just don't do math. Everything is up to you so the numbers are just numbers.
Build something and fire it. If it's not hot immediately you need more power.
Not enough of something? Build bigger and add power.
If you're using a regulated mod there's really nothing to think about, you just fire stuff till you find what you like.
A mech is the same way but lower ohm loads are ideal.
You don't really even need to worry about the exact ohm load once you grasp the idea and what your batteries like. As low as I build I've yet to actually make a battery hot. I have to chain vape to even get anything warm.

Sent from my E5306 using Tapatalk

I gotcha. I do tend to over-complicate stuff sometimes. Thanks for the explanation.

Now, I've got one more question for you and I'll leave you alone. Do you think putting more cotton in the juice well will stop the Reload from leaking when I fill it up? Or will it dry hit? When I fill it up, I lose about half a ml of juice out the airflow - just enough to make a mess, then it doesn't leak another drop till I fill it again.
 

whiteowl84

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I gotcha. I do tend to over-complicate stuff sometimes. Thanks for the explanation.

Now, I've got one more question for you and I'll leave you alone. Do you think putting more cotton in the juice well will stop the Reload from leaking when I fill it up? Or will it dry hit? When I fill it up, I lose about half a ml of juice out the airflow - just enough to make a mess, then it doesn't leak another drop till I fill it again.
No bother. I don't mean to sound like an ass hole but I am so that's how it comes out.

Sit the wicks over the holes like any other RTA. Don't sit the wicks in the hole at all.
If the wicks cover the hole plus the area around it, you shouldn't have any leaks.
Just use as much cotton as the coil needs. Any more than necessary will mute the flavor and slow the wicking.
I use actually Rayon instead of cotton. I cut the tails almost in half and there's still enough for it to not leak on it's side.
Rayon wicks differently and much faster so I actually do get my wick down in the channel.

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MWorthington

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No bother. I don't mean to sound like an ass hole but I am so that's how it comes out.

Sit the wicks over the holes like any other RTA. Don't sit the wicks in the hole at all.
If the wicks cover the hole plus the area around it, you shouldn't have any leaks.
Just use as much cotton as the coil needs. Any more than necessary will mute the flavor and slow the wicking.
I use actually Rayon instead of cotton. I cut the tails almost in half and there's still enough for it to not leak on it's side.
Rayon wicks differently and much faster so I actually do get my wick down in the channel.

Sent from my E5306 using Tapatalk

No problem at all. I've got to get used to thinking on the other side of the chip on these mods. :)

Thanks for the help.
 

Brad Mitchell

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
I'm going to make this as simple as I can.
The mod doesn't prevent user error. If you use a build that isn't efficient, if you aren't giving a build enough power or if you have to hold the button in before you put the atty to your face, the battery life will tank.
I've vaped plenty of 0.2 to 0.09 builds on regulated mods, the ramp up is the deciding factor.
I once vaped all my builds around 80w. Battery life sucked. When I went up to 130 it got waaaay better because power over time is the biggest strain on your batteries. 130w for a second pulls less mah than 80 for 2 or 3 seconds. The math is simple enough there.
Now to harder math.
Firstly your mod's using 2 charged 4.2v cells in series to make 8.4v which it steps down or up using silicon, chokes and buck converters.
At 100w using a 0.2ohm build:
100w/8.4v=11.9a

Now same 100w using a 0.1ohm build:
100w/8.4=11.9a

Look, the pack spends the same amperage to make 100w no matter what! Isn't math awesome?

Sent from my E5306 using Tapatalk
I want to start of by saying I see your point now. I have turned up the watts on my mod and I'm not so sure I see much battery life saving I have noticed that I am not changing batteries more than I was before.

Now the bad...i don't like you I was vaping at around 80 watts and fairly happy and now I have realised that the vape is nice at 165 and not only that but my mod caps out at 165 so either I need figure out new coils(which I like what's in there now) or buy another mod that goes higher
 

whiteowl84

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I want to start of by saying I see your point now. I have turned up the watts on my mod and I'm not so sure I see much battery life saving I have noticed that I am not changing batteries more than I was before.

Now the bad...i don't like you I was vaping at around 80 watts and fairly happy and now I have realised that the vape is nice at 165 and not only that but my mod caps out at 165 so either I need figure out new coils(which I like what's in there now) or buy another mod that goes higher
You can stay at a lower power if you build with a lower mass. Say your using 120w on 8 wraps of 26g. Try using 28g to make a coil that's the same ID and width as the 26g coil. The mass will be lower but you'll have the same surface area. That way you can use less power and get close to the same performance.

What build are you using now?

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MWorthington

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Member For 4 Years
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You can stay at a lower power if you build with a lower mass. Say your using 120w on 8 wraps of 26g. Try using 28g to make a coil that's the same ID and width as the 26g coil. The mass will be lower but you'll have the same surface area. That way you can use less power and get close to the same performance.

What build are you using now?

Sent from my E5306 using Tapatalk

Thank you! That's what I was looking for.
 

Brad Mitchell

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Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
You can stay at a lower power if you build with a lower mass. Say your using 120w on 8 wraps of 26g. Try using 28g to make a coil that's the same ID and width as the 26g coil. The mass will be lower but you'll have the same surface area. That way you can use less power and get close to the same performance.

What build are you using now?

Sent from my E5306 using Tapatalk
3 core 28k/36 fused I think 7 wrap it's .36 ohm
 

whiteowl84

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3 core 28k/36 fused I think 7 wrap it's .36 ohm
You can either loose a wrap, use 38g or 40g or do 4 core with 4 or 5 wraps instead of 3 core with 6 or 7 wraps.
36g takes a big bite out of your ramp speed so I'd probably try 3 core, 40g fuse with 6 wraps.
You can also do everything the exact same way you've already got it but with a smaller ID.

Sent from my E5306 using Tapatalk
 

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