Needs help with ohms law(i am newer to vaping)

[Wb80]

Can some1 plz help me figure out the limitations of my vape. I have a smok stick v9max. I would like to run an rda. But i am unsure of its limitations in regaurd to ohms and such. The last thing i want to do is damage it.

 

[5150sick]

Can some1 plz help me figure out the limitations of my vape. I have a smok stick v9max. I would like to run an rda. But i am unsure of its limitations in regaurd to ohms and such. The last thing i want to do is damage it.

I found little to no info about the battery that is inside the Smok Stick 9 Max.
I looked everywhere.

I did see that they are only sold in "60 watt starter" kits along with 0.15ohm coils.

I went to check the ohms law calculator in which you have to know two of the four variables (ohms, amps, volts, watts) in this case we know watts (60) and ohms (0.15):

http://www.onlineconversion.com/ohms_law.htm



It would appear as if they are using some kind of 20amp cell.

Don't go below 0.15ohms are you will be fine.

You could build a little higher to maybe 0.3 ohms and you would get more volts and watts.

See the difference:



I'm assuming the protection circuits are limiting amps only.

If they aren't then it won't fire.

In that case build to the 0.15 ohms that the regular coils are at.

 

[5150sick]

I found some more important info.
The Smok Stick V9max has a voltage limit of 4.1volts:




Since before we found the 20amp variable we can use those two:



So if you build the coil(s) to 0.20ohms it will produce 80 watts safely and from all the info I gathered it should fire.

I went with 0.20 because you need to stay lower than 0.205 because of the voltage limit:

 

[Wb80]

Thank you. Now i can build with more confidence and worry of overloadin gh it.

 

[MrMeowgi]

I found some more important info.
The Smok Stick V9max has a voltage limit of 4.1volts:

View attachment 131037


Since before we found the 20amp variable we can use those two:

View attachment 131038

So if you build the coil(s) to 0.20ohms it will produce 80 watts safely and from all the info I gathered it should fire.

I went with 0.20 because you need to stay lower than 0.205 because of the voltage limit:

View attachment 131039

Your the man

 

[Wb80]

So i am looking ok with an rda build like this?

 

[MrMeowgi]

Where did you pick up N20 wire. Need to make sure you use the right wire on the calculator for sure. All metals have a different resistance. I would also try a little bigger inside diameter for a coil too. But that's preference. I usually use a 3mm screwdriver to wrap my coils. 2.5mm sometimes depending on the deck

 

[MrMeowgi]

5his build is a single coil with N80. 6wrap 24 guage will be..2 ohm. Just gotta make sure you get the correct wire input. If your building for kanthal and using ss/N80 wire you could be in for a bad time

 

[MyMagicMist]

So i am looking ok with an rda build like this?View attachment 131061 View attachment 131061

I would also try a little bigger inside diameter for a coil too. But that's preference. I usually use a 3mm screwdriver to wrap my coils. 2.5mm sometimes depending on the deck

I agree, especially for NiC 80 wire. Be sure it (==)is NiC 80 and (!=)not NiC 60. 60 is well under rated for our use in vaping, meaning it'll short out (&/)and, or melt up quick. I like using 3 mm (ID)inner diameter on NiC 80 wire & in fact most wire types. I've found kind of a universal build that does well. It is a 3 mm ID wrapped 5 or 7 times depending on where I want to put the (Ω)ohms. 5 wraps usually can get me between 0.30 to 0.50 Ω no matter which wire type I use, Kanthal, NiC, SS. 7 might put me into 0.70 to 0.90 Ω range.

You can down to like 0.25 Ω at around 4 wraps, a bit lower with 3 and a half wraps. I don't like going below 0.30 Ω though, using a single cell 18650 20+ amp reputable battery. Go lower and the vapor gets too hot for me and voltage drop off, charge drain on the battery is too quick & I kind of worry a bit over that. Others might go down into 0.10 or so Ω. I say good for them if they can do it on a mech, but not for me, no thanks. I'm not quite that gifted or skilled yet and I'm not too overly concerned with being so. If I want that I'll try using a *cough, gag* regulated mod *gag, shuddering, cough*.

Clarifying, my build is single coil and usually not anything fancy like Clapton, Fused Clapton or any other ilk as such. My building suggestions are speculative too, what works for me might not be considered "what the facts say" or work for anyone else. I am writing what works for me and honest in that. That aside everyone's mileage is going to vary, ergo it becomes speculative. So I'll never tell you my way is "the only right and true way". As Larry Wall, inventor of PERL expresses it, "There's always more than one way to do a thing."

 

[Wb80]

Nikrothal 80 is wat im looking at. Made a mistake in entering it

 

[Wb80]

This but in 24

 

[MyMagicMist]

This but in 24

Groovy, Roger & Out. I noted Steam Engine does list other various NiCs but I've not done any research further than what I did to start using NiC wire. It was told me then that the 80 was what vaping required by a good source, at least one I consider to at least have uncommon common sense. So, i'm just steering toward sticking to 80. Tried a little ... two foot of 60 and saw it go up like a Christmas tree with old school wax candles. Why when told did I try something else? Hehe, gotta always verify and gotta always use this *points to empty cavity where his brain used to be*. Besides the day I quit being a smart ass is well, it's not gonna be a day folks want to remember. Be sure to get me for my funeral.

 

[MyMagicMist]

Deleted -- Server bouncing again. * holds hands away from keyboard, closes the net mask program he was using via his data jack in his head* Not me doing it, promise.

 

[Carambrda]

Mooch recently discussed battery safety with regards to internal battery mods:

Further, the atomizer/coil resistance isn't a determining factor when calculating battery safety for a regulated mod, be it external or internal battery regulated mod. Please refer to "Minding Your mAhs ─ Ep3" here:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCePHh3NMvu3rW2LFJeOWo-Q/videos
The bottom line is, without knowing the CDR of the internal battery, you're at a loss as for whether the "maximum power output of 60 watts" specification is sufficiently accurate safety wise. That plus the fact you have to throw the mod away after the battery wears out is IMO sufficient reason to avoid internal battery mods that haven't been properly tested to see how fast their internal battery ages when using them at or near their maximum power output capability, especially considering the fact the temperature of the device's body/enclosure itself is not representative of how hot the internal battery gets.