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floresroach

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Getting the Doge RDA, I want to know some so's and don'ts with cotton, coils, juices, maintenance?


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tnumbers

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is there any specific questions you have?There is a lot of information and if you could narrow it down that would be great.
 

OB61887

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Use an ohm reader, buy organic cotton (natural is not necessarily organic), don't buy build supplies from a B&M. Clean your atty before the initial use to get rid of any residual machine oil. Best way to find the build that works for you is to experiment.

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floresroach

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Like, what wires are good, juice ratios, cleaning methods? What kind of caps do I want if I wanna maximize air intake?


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tnumbers

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huge amounts of airflow are only needed for huge amounts of power. Wires are a preference. Pick up a small amount of 24 and 22 gauge if youre looking to start dripping. 28 gauge is good for tanks. Lightningvavpes.com has good cheap kanthal. As stated before, brick and mortar stores are not good for building supplies, they will rip you off. Juice ratios again are a preference. Higher vg means more vapor, while higher pg means more flavor. nicotine depends on what you want or are used to. For dripping start at 3 or 6 mg and work your way up. For tanks start at 12 and work your way up. Let me know if you have any more questions.

p.s. you need something to wrap coils on. I recommend a 1/8" or 3mm drill bit for drippers. 5/64" or 1.5mm drill bit for tanks.
 

BigNasty

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huge amounts of airflow are only needed for huge amounts of power. Wires are a preference. Pick up a small amount of 24 and 22 gauge if youre looking to start dripping. 28 gauge is good for tanks. Lightningvavpes.com has good cheap kanthal. As stated before, brick and mortar stores are not good for building supplies, they will rip you off. Juice ratios again are a preference. Higher vg means more vapor, while higher pg means more flavor. nicotine depends on what you want or are used to. For dripping start at 3 or 6 mg and work your way up. For tanks start at 12 and work your way up. Let me know if you have any more questions.

p.s. you need something to wrap coils on. I recommend a 1/8" or 3mm drill bit for drippers. 5/64" or 1.5mm drill bit for tanks.
Pretty much this with one thing to keep in mind. 22 is going to have some ramp up time and dual 22 you better have some kick ass safe as hell batteries pushing low ohm.
 

OB61887

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Also, as far as gauge goes, I would go between 22 and 28 and experiment. You can still get serious clouds off 28. Lower gauge will generally get bigger clouds, but they will also dry hit more severely. If you are using a mech mod, be especially careful with low gauge coils and ready up on battery safety. For wrapping coils, I recommend a precision set of screwdrivers. You can get a set for ~$6 and that will let you build micro to macro coils.
 

floresroach

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Thanks a lot you guys, so far I really dig vaping. When I pick up a hobby I tend to want to become a human dictionary on the subject and this is extremely helpful and informational

-cheers!!


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BigNasty

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LoL it is not hard to do or pick up Flo. The issue is that I see a ton of new vapors get into is a little knowledge an be a hazard and they just stop at that knowledge and not safe knowledge either.
Give you a couple good examples of how a wee bit of knowledge and no common sense makes you a potential Dawrwin winner.

The fucking retard who at the Dallas vape event modified his switch, had a battery not really rated for it and his low ohm atty... so his pipe bomb in waiting had been steady firing in his backpack for minutes.. he finally pulls it out and slams it on the ground.. result is the mod pipe bombs in a crowd. thank god no one was hurt but unaware this cowardly fuck has faced any fall out from it.

The Brain on youtube with his conjestis mod and shit show coils venting a 26650 but prior to the vent had to use a towel cause his fire button was to hot to touch otherwise.

The kid locally I ran into vaping a pair of .18 dual parallels with a 15 amp battery cause it lasts longer. And that is the battery the shop gave him.
 

OB61887

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madmonkey

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Happy new year and I wish you the best as you dive into the wonderful world of RDA's!

Proper airflow, not too much, not too little is key to a good vape on an RDA...it's something you'll have to play around with and figure out the right amount for the coil you've built and your vaping style (as in how hard of pull you take.) the wrong amount of airflow can take away your flavor or burn up your coils. Just keep that in mind as you experiment. Sometimes all is needed to save a build is an airflow tweak.

Good batteries...reguardless of mech or regulated device...make sure you get some good batteries like Samsung 25R's or VTC 3/4's (if you're going to buy VTC batteries make sure you buy them from someone like RTD Vapor or Lightening Vapes....NEVER buy batteries on amazon/ebay...it's a good way to get ripped off.) LG HE2 or HE4's or HD2's are also good. I know a lot of people like purple Efest's but I don't use them personally so I can't speak to them either way. And make sure you know your battery's continuous drain limit and stay within it if you're going to use mech mods. All of the batteries I just listed are 20 amp continuous drain or higher. I'd recommend starting building on 28 or 26 gauge wire to start with...you get plenty of clouds and flavor and it's much safer till you get the hang of it than building on 22 or 24.

Don't build below .25ish on a mech the first couple times. Build higher till you really get a feel for it. And make sure you get an ohm reader but remember they can be off as much as .04 +/-. That might not sound like much but it you're using a mech mod and you get below that (especially < .19) a difference in resistance of .01 can start causing a huge jump in amps drained off the battery. I use 2 ohm's readers and a DNA 40 to check my resistance. If your battery can only safely work with a .2 build and your meter says .2 but it is off and it's .16 in reality things can get warm....just go slow and really get to know your gear before you get super crazy is all I am saying. And always double check your connection on your coil after you trim the leads off and after you have wicked your atty before you fire it. I've had some atty clones that the screws would loosen slightly on me while wicking/trimming and that is a good way for a short to happen without it necessarily being visible at first. We all know "shorts" are bad right?

Cotton Bacon is kind of a gimmicky thing but I love it at the same time because of how easy it is to work with...I just japanese Go Ken Do pads too because I got a huge box for like 12 bucks but I bought a bag of cotton bacon to try and it does work really well and it's a really loose cotton that you can just pull the strips apart and mold into any shape wick as apposed to unrolling a cotton ball or pulling apart a cotton pad and I think it's easier to work with in the beginning.

There are other really good points in here so I am not going to repeat everyone or rant on any longer but the most important things are to have fun and be safe and I am sure you'll love it...we all get addicted to vaping here, not just the nicotine, but the fun of the hobby aspect as well. Good luck and cheers!
 

floresroach

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Here's my gear so far

The mod is a King V2
The doge RDA has a pretty standard cool build (standard for a newb) the button has gotten pretty hot on the mod and the battery drained pretty fast with the doge. When I give the mod a bit of a shake to check the play between the terminals there seems to be none, I can't seem to adjust the terminals any more...
Not sure what to do here.

The tank I'm using is the Atlantis by Aspire.


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madmonkey

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hmmm...I can't remember...does the King have a spring or magnets in the switch? Also...what's the resistance of your build?
 

floresroach

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It has a spring. I had the guy at the vape shop give me a quick how to on this build, I don't remember the resistance though. My girl's dad has a meter, I'll check as soon as possible. For now I'm just gonna use my Atlantis.


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floresroach

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hmmm...I can't remember...does the King have a spring or magnets in the switch? Also...what's the resistance of your build?
So the resistance was running at .19 my girl's dad has been practicing for some cloud contests and he happily grabbed my DOGE and built a double parallel running at .14 and holy crap does it make clouds.. It still gets hot but I hear that's pretty normal. It doesn't burn my hands or anything. But the battery drains faster than when I use my Atlantis, that's normal yeah?


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madmonkey

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So the resistance was running at .19 my girl's dad has been practicing for some cloud contests and he happily grabbed my DOGE and built a double parallel running at .14 and holy crap does it make clouds.. It still gets hot but I hear that's pretty normal. It doesn't burn my hands or anything. But the battery drains faster than when I use my Atlantis, that's normal yeah?


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Yeah that's definitely normal....You're braver than me. I don't trust those batteries...I've searched all over the web for the official continuous amp discharge rating and the specs say "1C" which would be 2.5 amps. The internal resistance on them is around 20mohm which isn't bad but VTC 3/4's or Samsung 25R's is lower. I can't quote it but I am willing to bet the 35 amp label is the pulse limit which at the resistance you're running is stressing the battery. From the graphs I've seen it looks more like a 20 amp continuous drain battery and when you push it past that the battery life just goes to shit. The hot fire button is from all the current racing threw that switch and it's not copping well...if you have a spring in your switch instead of magnets you can try putting a sturdier spring (preferably one that is more conductive as well,) and it will help keep the spring cool. But that is a lot of current to be pulling off of a single batt. Even with voltage drop of 1 volt on a fully charged battery making the voltage 3.2 at .14 resistance you're still pulling over 22 amps. That drops down to around 19.6 amps at 2.75 volts applied....

long and short of it....your setup is gonna drain a battery fast and hard.

I don't want to say everything is fine then have something happen and it come back to haunt me but the battery you're using should be alright....but it wouldn't hurt to try and get some VTC4's from RTD Vapor or get a couple Samsung 20R's (not 25R),,,,the 20R have a weird rating...their Max continuous drain is 22 amps and their 2000 mah. the 25R's are 20 amp with 2500 mah but they have a pulse rating of a 100....little more breathing room for your battery. But the Sony would be the best bet....for safety reasons...you always want to give your battery a little breathing room on it's continuous drain limit and not push it to the max all the time...your battery will live longer and be healthier and won't have to replace them as often.
 

floresroach

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I'll order the sony's tonight...
These the right one's?
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floresroach

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You said 2500 Mah?


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madmonkey

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yeah...those are the right sony's....the sony's are 2100 mah. the samsung 25R's are 2500....but the sony has higher amp limit. I am pretty sure you'll be happy with the sonys :)
 

floresroach

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Just ordered them from RTD this morning.


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Aquaman

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Funny! I wonder what those "Sony batteries" are really are?
Sony has never made batteries.....Ever!
 

nightshard

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Funny! I wonder what those "Sony batteries" are really are?
Sony has never made batteries.....Ever!
Sony did make those batteries in the past, which were then used in power tool battery packs.
It's one thing to say we sell batteries that contain the same cells that were used in sony batteries (which are great cells), but if a battery is wrapped in "sony" wrap with sony writing it's clearly a fake.
 

Aquaman

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Like I wrote....Sony has never made batteries.....Ever!
All Sony power tool packs were made by Sanyo or Panasonic.
 

OB61887

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They are still Sony batteries, even though Sony did not manufacture them. That is just the name we use to identify the batteries. It does not change the quality of them.
 

nightshard

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The fact that there is no genuine manufacturer for "sony" batteries means there is no way to tell which "sony" batteries contain high quality cells and which don't, besides individually testing each batch, and the "how to tell if your VTCs are fake" external test means nothing.
 

OB61887

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There is a genuine manufacturer. They were sold under the Sony brand, they were just not manufactured by Sony. Just like Apple does not manufacture the IPhone, they are still held to the standards enforced by Apple.
 

floresroach

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It's my understanding that RTD has a reputation for selling what they advertise. When I get them i'll post a pic so we can all have a look.


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nightshard

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Based on the response i got from sony customer service, they have not been manufacturing or selling VTCs for quite a while, they take no responsibility for the ones out there and even when they did, it was never meant to be sold as separates.
 

OB61887

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I'm not saying there are not re-wrapped batteries being sold as VTCs, just that genuine VTCs are a thing and not just re-wrapped batteries.
 

floresroach

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What are some other good batteries you guys would suggest? I want to run my DOGE V1


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OB61887

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I like the LG HE2. The LG HE4 are supposed to be an upgraded version but the stats are the same from all I see. Believe they are advertised as 35 amp pulse with 20 continuous.
 

madmonkey

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Samsung INR18650-R20 and R25

Those were the other batteries I recommended if you didn't want the sony...

Samsung INR 18650-20R 2000 mah. 22 amp Continuous discharge. Pulse discharge rate not listed on spec sheet
Samsung INR 18650-25R 2500 mah. 20 amp Continuous discharge. 100 Amp momentary pulse discharge rating per spec sheet.

Here's the links to samsungs spec sheets on the batteries...in my opinion these are the most solid easy to get batteries, your's and other's opinions may vary but I am admittedly a Samsung fanboy :D

http://www.vapeking.com.au/content/Samsung-25R.pdf
http://www.avacom.cz/Datasheety/Samsung/INR18650-20R.pdf
 

AmandaD

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RTD Vapor is rock solid at least, so you'll get what you think you're ordering! I have some old Sony VTC5s I ordered from them a long time ago, and they're still going strong!
 

BigNasty

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If you go with build of the constant 20amp drain rating you can still get a lower ohm of .25 without to much safety concerns.
 

madmonkey

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RTD Vapor is rock solid at least, so you'll get what you think you're ordering! I have some old Sony VTC5s I ordered from them a long time ago, and they're still going strong!

I buy most of my batteries from RTD these days...I bought a couple from Lightening Vapes as well and as far as I can tell their stuff is also legit, I haven't got any reason to think otherwise. But RTD suprised me....the last 2 VTC 4's I bought from them had a "verified" by XTAR hologram sticker on them. I know they also sell an XTAR battery that is a rewrapped VTC 4 but I wonder if they're getting their stock "green" wrapped cells from them as well
 

floresroach

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Well. I have some AWT and some MXJO batteries both brands high drain 186250 IMR's 3.7 volt 35 amp, when I used the "VTC4's" I popped one in, took hit or two while at a Vape lounge and they seemed to only last about 1/4 of what the others last me.


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madmonkey

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They're only 2100 mah, so they can last a bit shorter than 2500 mah batteries...but that's weird...even my sony VTC3's hang in there almost as long as my 20R's and there is a 400 mah difference between those two
 

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