NI200 Coil Builds with a DNA 40 Device

[Rebel_Vaper]

I thought I would set up a thread to show and discuss new builds using Nickel wire ( NI200 ) on the New DNA 40 Devices.

Ok I will start it off:

Squape R with 30 Ga, 11 wraps, single coil at .2 ohms, using ReadyXWick

Temp at 430 and 20 watts..... Good clean vape, still cool not warm yet


Magma with Twisted 30 Ga at 12 wraps, single coil at .10 ohms, using ReadyXWick

Temp set at 470 and 30 watts.... Good Clean Vape, Good Vapor, Great Taste

I am using a ProtoVapor XVP DNA 40 and loving it !!!

Rebel_Vaper on VapersNation on Vapers.tv
http://vapers.tv/vapersnation

 

[Amir_Wazir]

Great thread, I'm planning on getting a DNA 40 soon for the temperature protection and building a box mod. It's good to see some examples of different coil builds using Ni200.

 

[OB61887]

Just curious, being an idiot about wire temps. How does nickle compare with kanthal? What if any worries should I have using it?

 

[MrScaryZ]

Great thread, I'm planning on getting a DNA 40 soon for the temperature protection and building a box mod. It's good to see some examples of different coil builds using Ni200.

Temperature protection from what?

 

[M5amhan]

i caved in and got a vaporshark dna40 so ill be playing around with these nickel builds myself pretty soon i only got some 28 gauge on the way though, hope its not too low

 

[RyGon]

I thought I would set up a thread to show and discuss new builds using Nickel wire ( NI200 ) on the New DNA 40 Devices.

Ok I will start it off:

Squape R with 30 Ga, 11 wraps, single coil at .2 ohms, using ReadyXWick

Temp at 430 and 20 watts..... Good clean vape, still cool not warm yet


Magma with Twisted 30 Ga at 12 wraps, single coil at .10 ohms, using ReadyXWick

Temp set at 470 and 30 watts.... Good Clean Vape, Good Vapor, Great Taste

I am using a ProtoVapor XVP DNA 40 and loving it !!!

Rebel_Vaper on VapersNation on Vapers.tv
http://vapers.tv/vapersnation

I don't have one yet but I'm interested. Does the twisted 30 give you something easier to work with. I have seen a few videos and it looks like the Ni200 is a PITA.

 

[travanx]

Can you dry burn these coils when they gunk up? Or how do you clean them?

 

[Rebel_Vaper]

So Far mine have not gunked up yet... so I cant tell ya They are burning very clean

 

[dre]

I just ordered a board for my cana mini and some 28g ni200 I can't wait!

 

[SeniorBoy]

I've had my xpv 40 for about two weeks and performed about 8 Ni200 builds. Mostly on my magmas. In this pic, I'm using 28 gauge Ni with an ID of around 3 and 12 spaced wraps. This is a R91 (version 1) which I tore down for you guys and an excuse to see what was happening and rewick. I use organic cotton (Bio Wick) and had to trial and error so I did not char/burn. I saturate part of wick before I thread through the coil so it does not deform the build. With Eko I saturate the entire wick and then squeeze and then thread through the coil. The build in the pic is about 7 days old and about 8 ML of 50/50 medium juice through it. It's hard to see in the pic but the outer coils are lighter in color than the center coils. That's because the coil gets hotter in the middle BUT since the DNA40 is computing an average of the temp across the entire coil when running in TP mode so it's not an issue. With a Kanthal topper the vape is identical to my other mods using the same RDA or RTA.

Ni appears to last longer and is thus less prone to gunk me up. Ni appears to be less forgiving than Kanthal so it's very important that all your posts/screws are tight and the entire delivry system is working properly. I run this build at 420F and around 13.5 W. Cold it registers .20 which fluctuates a little as you use it. Brandon calls this "normalizing" and Iv'e learned to ignore this fluctuations. My settings are designed to eliminate a TP warning for the duration of the various kinds of draws I take throughput the day. Sometime short, long, deep, shallow, fast or slow. Each of us is different so you need to fiddle. I don't consider myself an expert but rather still on my journey. The vape in the R91 is spot on with my KF + Kanthal. In my Magmas it's a new world with no dry hits and or burned juice. My builds don't win any beauty contests YET /lol.



HTH

 

[Amir_Wazir]

So correct me if I'm wrong, but coil builds on a DNA 40 are supposed to be gapped ( IOW no contact coils ) correct?

 

[dre]

Nope contact coils work I've read

 

[SeniorBoy]

So correct me if I'm wrong, but coil builds on a DNA 40 are supposed to be gapped ( IOW no contact coils ) correct?

Good question! I'm not sure of the linking procedure on VU to ECF so I want to be respectful of Joe's wishes. I think it's whatever works for you and that means try spaced and contact builds. HOWEVER, Brandon from Evolv just answered via Email in the other place /lol that if you choose to make contact coils (wraps that touch) then every wrap has to touch or you will get hot spots. Iv'e tried this procedure with contact coils and it is not easy. The slightest glitch after the wrap on the jig can glitch things up. Of course, your choice can also be influenced by the available space on the RDA or RTA or 28 or 30 guage. For what it's worth for me, the coil in the pic started life as an imperfect contact coil and then I spread them out.

HTH

 

[Amir_Wazir]

Good question! I'm not sure of the linking procedure on VU to ECF so I want to be respectful of Joe's wishes. I think it's whatever works for you and that means try spaced and contact builds. HOWEVER, Brandon from Evolv just answered via Email in the other place /lol that if you choose to make contact coils (wraps that touch) then every wrap has to touch or you will get hot spots. Iv'e tried this procedure with contact coils and it is not easy. The slightest glitch after the wrap on the jig can glitch things up. Of course, your choice can also be influenced by the available space on the RDA or RTA or 28 or 30 guage. For what it's worth for me, the coil in the pic started life as an imperfect contact coil and then I spread them out.

HTH

Thanks good to know, I'm especially glad to hear that straight from the horse's mouth. Their specification document for the DNA 40 says that coils that short to themselves shouldn't be used so I was worried that a contact coil might keep the temp. protection from working, but if it's just a matter of hotspots ( due to the Ni200 wire, I suppose ) then that's just an implementation issue

I agree though, those coils can be tricky -- I imagine even more so with a softer wire like Ni200.

 

[Sparks]

I just got my Vapor Flask about a week ago and I am looking for people with NI200 builds of various proven results, it looks to be tricky for sure.
I've looked at Steam Engine but sure would like to see or hear some actual what's what or more results if you follow.
Also noticed today that the clone of the Flask is coming, man it sure doesn't take long,
Yiloong box mod clone dna 30 chip vaporflask clone with variable wattage vapor flask v2

 

[M5amhan]

I just got my Vapor Flask about a week ago and I am looking for people with NI200 builds of various proven results, it looks to be tricky for sure.
I've looked at Steam Engine but sure would like to see or hear some actual what's what or more results if you follow.
Also noticed today that the clone of the Flask is coming, man it sure doesn't take long,
Yiloong box mod clone dna 30 chip vaporflask clone with variable wattage vapor flask v2

i get mine soon but i have seen some pretty good videos on it. wrap your coil and when you put it on take the temp control off and pulse it red just like kanthal, give it a pinch until it glows correctly then turn temp back on. doesnt matter what build or ohms you do its the same temp

 

[Sparks]

i get mine soon but i have seen some pretty good videos on it. wrap your coil and when you put it on take the temp control off and pulse it red just like kanthal, give it a pinch until it glows correctly then turn temp back on. doesnt matter what build or ohms you do its the same temp

Just saw your post thank you, I've heard well read some saying to space the coils as running them tight I guess is really much more difficult and you have to be dead on with your build or it's trouble, did you get your vids from search on YouTube? Haven't gone there yet but will be as I have a roll of NI200 in the cart, sort of, I put it in then think about it and wonder if I really want to go there.
I have turned the temp control with the Evolv on and off and did notice with the temp control off the volts seem to increase, maybe my imagination, this chip is really trick that's for sure and frankly way more than what I need in my vape world, I'm just a collector and happened to have the alert for VapeRev and the Vapor Flask on and was in the right place at the right time.
VapeRev had about 3 days or so prior to my getting the Flask had the Skeleton Key up for sell and I actually had one in my cart but then being I was so happy I decided since it was in the cart to go on a shopping spree and added about $3K worth of other stuff and then when I went to check out the Key came up as out of stock, I flipped OUT as I have been after that mod forever, talked POLITELY to VapeRev and they told me what happened.
Once you have something in your cart after that it's a race to see who's card numbers get cleared and verified first as to who really gets the mod.
I was damn mad but held my tongue and a bit later when the Flask came up, believe this, I can enter my card numbers pretty damn fast and scored.
That is some word of advise if your buying high end from VapeRev but they also told me that they are working on a fix for that cart issue being if it's in your cart you should own it, damn Keys sold out in under a minute and the Flasks sold out right after I got mine in about a minute, it's crazy trying to buy high end but when you get them you really see the difference from a clone, just looking at the Yiloong clone of the Flask I can see in the pics just how crappy the quality is.
Anyhow thanks for the info and you will love that Flask, I've been offered $500 for mine but think I'll hold on to it at least for awhile as I do want to try that temp control just to see the difference.

 

[Sparks]

i get mine soon but i have seen some pretty good videos on it. wrap your coil and when you put it on take the temp control off and pulse it red just like kanthal, give it a pinch until it glows correctly then turn temp back on. doesnt matter what build or ohms you do its the same temp

Say by the way it just occurred to me since your getting a Flask to give you a warning I've seen on Vapor Flasks FaceBook page.
There are lots, lots of issues showing up, It Seems to ME, with this chip and some quality control issues, mine seems perfect but I am definitely on the watch for issues, like one I'm wondering about being the battery voltage bar, mine showed near full for two days of heavy vaping so I removed the batteries and put the meter on them and both LG H2's were at 3.4v?? I am running again on a fresh charge before I go saying something.
Also be aware that the tubes for the batteries are TIGHT really tight, they only recommend Sony which are hard to find or LG H2 which is what I'm running, Efest won't fit not even close, the LG's were so tight I had to remove the sticker on them just to get them in the tube and the positive end of the bat is fatter than the rest of the battery, geez you'd think they could give just a tad more space..LOL

 

[M5amhan]

Say by the way it just occurred to me since your getting a Flask to give you a warning I've seen on Vapor Flasks FaceBook page.
There are lots, lots of issues showing up, It Seems to ME, with this chip and some quality control issues, mine seems perfect but I am definitely on the watch for issues, like one I'm wondering about being the battery voltage bar, mine showed near full for two days of heavy vaping so I removed the batteries and put the meter on them and both LG H2's were at 3.4v?? I am running again on a fresh charge before I go saying something.
Also be aware that the tubes for the batteries are TIGHT really tight, they only recommend Sony which are hard to find or LG H2 which is what I'm running, Efest won't fit not even close, the LG's were so tight I had to remove the sticker on them just to get them in the tube and the positive end of the bat is fatter than the rest of the battery, geez you'd think they could give just a tad more space..LOL

im not getting a flask i meant a dna40.. this is the video i was talking about though

 

[Rick A Seneris Sr]

Good question! I'm not sure of the linking procedure on VU to ECF so I want to be respectful of Joe's wishes. I think it's whatever works for you and that means try spaced and contact builds. HOWEVER, Brandon from Evolv just answered via Email in the other place /lol that if you choose to make contact coils (wraps that touch) then every wrap has to touch or you will get hot spots. Iv'e tried this procedure with contact coils and it is not easy. The slightest glitch after the wrap on the jig can glitch things up. Of course, your choice can also be influenced by the available space on the RDA or RTA or 28 or 30 guage. For what it's worth for me, the coil in the pic started life as an imperfect contact coil and then I spread them out.

HTH

I used to be in the electronics field for 38 years and coil contacts of any form is considered a short (evil). On the new evolve DNA 40, Trying to use a micro coil, I believe should be avoided to alleviate the problem. Remember, Guys, we are working on a very narrow ohmic range, a coil contact will greatly affect the coil calibration by at least 10% on a ten wrapped coil. As a side note: Insulated nickel wire may be available, but it should be of high temperature type that could operate at at least 700 degrees f. with releasing any toxic gas.

 

[Sparks]

im not getting a flask i meant a dna40.. this is the video i was talking about though

OH, OK sorry my bad, when you said you were getting one tomorrow I just assumed Flask ..LOL
But that is surely what I wanted to see so thank you very much..!!

 

[Sparks]

I used to be in the electronics field for 38 years and coil contacts of any form is considered a short (evil). On the new evolve DNA 40, Trying to use a micro coil, I believe should be avoided to alleviate the problem. Remember, Guys, we are working on a very narrow ohmic range, a coil contact will greatly affect the coil calibration by at least 10% on a ten wrapped coil. As a side note: Insulated nickel wire may be available, but it should be of high temperature type that could operate at at least 700 degrees f. with releasing any toxic gas.

Interesting info, I've been reading quit a bit about the NI200 and frankly what I've been reading suggests to me that this could be a somewhat risky venture hence my hesitance to venture into a zero resistance coil, it just seems real weird to me after always thinking sub ohm or ohm and then I guess to try and think zero and temperature only just seems odd to me and I've been vaping for a minute or 10..LOL
BUT with that said and now having the means to go there it sure is rather tempting but as you said and like I've been reading, to pinch your coils tight like a regular Kanthal build will more likely than not cause a major problem and they say in order to even go there with your build you will have to be dead on, not even a simple twist in your wire I guess, pictures all show nice evenly spaced wraps, one fella talks about the gap measurement in between his coils, that seems like a bit more work than I care to BUT then again... hum

 

[Sparks]

Thought I'd post the data sheet for those who might be interested,
http://www.evolvapor.com/datasheet/dna40.pdf

 

[VH fan]

In my Magmas it's a new world with no dry hits and or burned juice.

I have never received a single dry hit or burnt juice of any kind in any of my RDA's for as long as i have been using them , very very surprised this is an issue people are having . Of course you have to build and wick correctly but thats not difficult.

 

[RyGon]

I have never received a single dry hit or burnt juice of any kind in any of my RDA's for as long as i have been using them , very very surprised this is an issue people are having . Of course you have to build and wick correctly but thats not difficult.

I don't know, I have been vaping for about two years and I still get a dry hit once in a while and I get a partially dry hit probably at least once a day. Mostly because I use multiple devices with different juices in them so I don't always know when I last dripped. Maybe if I payed better attention, stuck to one device and vaped at lower wattage I could eliminate them but I can't really imagine how I could have never gotten a dry hit ever unless maybe I had temperature limiting features on my mod.

 

[M5amhan]

I don't know, I have been vaping for about two years and I still get a dry hit once in a while and I get a partially dry hit probably at least once a day. Mostly because I use multiple devices with different juices in them so I don't always know when I last dripped. Maybe if I payed better attention, stuck to one device and vaped at lower wattage I could eliminate them but I can't really imagine how I could have never gotten a dry hit ever unless maybe I had temperature limiting features on my mod.

even i stick to one device throughout the day and still get a dry hit or two in my kayfuns, simple fix (unscrew a section just a bit to get the pressure right) but still a shitty way to let me know theres no juice flow lol

 

[RyGon]

even i stick to one device throughout the day and still get a dry hit or two in my kayfuns, simple fix (unscrew a section just a bit to get the pressure right) but still a shitty way to let me know theres no juice flow lol

Lol, I feel you. My RTA is a Fogger v4.1 right now and the gurgle/dry hit battle is a constant. When I get that wicking just right I leave it in there as long as possible.

 

[VH fan]

The only thing i could think of is i vape higher ohm's , that has to have something to do with it , they don't get nearly as hot as most other peoples.

I also constantly check and make sure my wick is saturated , i don't think i ever waited until a dry hit happened.

My curiosity was about the DNA 40 and it's temp control , is it solely about eliminating dry hits ?

 

[Sparks]

Temperature Protection
The DNA 40 is the first power supply for electronic cigarettes to directly measure and limit the
temperature of the heating coil during operation. By preventing the coil from becoming too hot
regardless of fluid, wicking or airflow, a variety of undesirable situations can be prevented. For example,
appropriate temperature settings will prevent the wicking material from charring, which compromises
taste and introduces unintended chemicals into the vapor. Appropriate temperature settings will also
reduce the breakdown of flavoring and base liquid components, which could impact taste or safety.
Evolv’s Temperature Protection Technology requires a heating coil made from Nickel 200 alloy,
rather than Nickel Chromium or Kanthal alloys. Nickel 200 is commercially pure nickel. It is often sold in
vapor shops and online as “non-resistance wire.” If the temperature reaches the maximum value, the
wattage applied to the atomizer coil is reduced to prevent overheating. Please note that the
temperature reading is the average temperature of the atomizer coil, and care should be taken to
construct the heating coil so that the temperature is uniform, without hot or cold spots. Ensure that the
coil does not short to itself.
Because wattage, not temperature controls vapor volume, large vapor volumes can be produced
without unnecessarily high temperatures. Temperature Protection is most helpful if the atomizer begins
to dry out, the user pauses during a puff, the beginning or end of the puff, or if the wattage setting is
inappropriate for the attached atomizer.

 

[M5amhan]

got mine in and i fucking love it. vaping on 28g Ni200 8 wraps around 3/32 0.1 ohms and i packed it full of cotton vaping kayfun at 22.5 watts 450 degrees right now, could go higher in watts.

at first i was getting a weird taste wasnt sure if it was dry hits or hot spots but then realized i packed that cotton in and took a minute to break in but holy crap after a few pulls its vaping like a champ. turned up the wattage and wow just awesome. still have a lot of playing around to do but its off to a great start.

also the nickel is not hard to work with, its just soft so have to be a bit more gentle like 32g kanthal but shapes itself so much easier. for example if u have a non-contact coil and want it to touch, one squeeze will have them all together nearly perfectly. its a whole new experience and glad i bought one

 

[Sparks]

Very Very cool, I am on it now, thanks for the info extremely encouraging now and helpful..!!

 

[driver379]

i caved in and got a vaporshark dna40 so ill be playing around with these nickel builds myself pretty soon i only got some 28 gauge on the way though, hope its not too low

Just did the same thing myself! Can't wait.

 

[Rune]

Picked up a Vaporshark RDNA 40 yesterday and been looking up info on Nickel builds and came across this thread. Joined the forum to say thanks as it's been a very informative read (especially liked the linked video). I've ordered some 28 gauge Ni200 wire and it was shipped today so will be making my first Nickel build very soon

 

[driver379]

Picked up a Vaporshark RDNA 40 yesterday and been looking up info on Nickel builds and came across this thread. Joined the forum to say thanks as it's been a very informative read (especially liked the linked video). I've ordered some 28 gauge Ni200 wire and it was shipped today so will be making my first Nickel build very soon

Your gonna love it!

 

[T702]

I use a strand of 30ga kanthal twisted worry 30ga ni200 and it's working great. Adds strength and tc still works great.
Here's my dna40 bottom feeder, I love it.

 

[Vap3on]

I'm new to the DNA 40 what would be the best sized NI200 to buy for starters? AWG28 / .3MM - AWG30 .25MM OR AWG26 .4MM?

Any help would be appreciated

 

[dre]

30 or 28g I find 28 g easier to wrap but I need a min of 10 wraps usually to get over .1

 

[T702]

Twist 30ga kanthal and ni200 tight with a drill. It will be strong and you will get your ohms high enough, that's the only way I run my ni200 builds

 

[Prsurf2k]

Thanks to all of you for your posts. I'm ready to try a DNA40 device myself and been doing the research. I see some or one or two of you have been mixing in kanthal a-1 with NI200. Does this not mess up the temp control on the DNA 40;. just wondering how this works. But it is interesting and would like to learn more. seems like the kanthal adds some stiffness and resistance to the build and the NI200 for the temp control.

 

[T702]

Yup ads stiffness and tc works fine!

 

[Giraut]

Here's a trick to mount a 28-gauge nickel coil onto an atty with post holes securely and without breaking the legs:

Folded over 4 times like this, the legs are just about impossible to crush, and you can tighten the hell out of the post screws.

 

[driver379]

I use a strand of 30ga kanthal twisted worry 30ga ni200 and it's working great. Adds strength and tc still works great.
Here's my dna40 bottom feeder, I love it. DNA 40 squonker Too cool!

 

[T702]

Wassup driver!

 

[driver379]

IDK ! I tried to comment on the cool dna 40 squonker and it ended up reposting your whole post. LOL

 

[Ellipsis]

Twist 30ga kanthal and ni200 tight with a drill. It will be strong and you will get your ohms high enough, that's the only way I run my ni200 builds

hmm...30g kanthal has around 8.36 ohms / foot resistance, you dont say what gage ni200 wire you are using, but 30g ni200 is around .6 ohms / foot resistance...
not sure what to think...not calling you out as a troll or a bamboozler, but the dna 40 wont work in temp mode with that high a resistance...
odds are it is kicking out of temp mode and going into the straight up wattage mode when you fire it up..
from where i sit, your build didnt happen unless there's video
i wont have my dna40 till after the first of the year...but you can bet your ass, im not goin' with your build...

 

[Giraut]

@Ellipsis: please learn basic electronics before calling someone a bamboozler. When you wrap high resistance wire with low resistance wire, you get an even lower resistance wire. When kanthal is wrapped around ni200 and you make a coil out of it, it's like you put in parallel a nickel coil (that's 0.2 ohm for instance) and a kanthal coil (that's, say, 2 ohm). The resulting resistance is:

R = 1 / ( 1/Rkanthal + 1/Rnickel) = 1 / (1/2 + 1/0.2) = 0.18 ohm

Or in other words, most of the current will flow in the nickel wire part of the twisted nickel/kanthal wire, and the effect of the fixed kanthal resistance will be negligible compared to the variable resistance of the nickel wire.

Or in other words, the kanthal wire is essentially there for mechanical strength, and plays very little role in the final coil's electrical characteristics.

 

[T702]

Thanks for the kind eris Driver! I love that thigh, it's the only dna mod I have, I hopped on the 40 to check out the temp control but I wasn't sure if it was going to be able to satisfy... I usually run around 0.2ohm to 0.4 ish ... and I gotta say is a beast, I'm very happy and kinda surprised with the dna40, especially in the power department. The temp control ice neve had any issues at all with it, this mod has the best bottom feed 510 connector setup I've seen. I also threw a bottle out of a vapage.com mod in there, it's 9ml.

Thanks for the explanation @Giraut, you what I could only describe as correct!

I swear by the twisted kanthal / ni200 (both 30ga) is really the only way I like to run tc. Never any problems, glitches, dropping out of tc.

 

[T702]

Here's one of my first builds with 30/30 ka1/ni200: (I wanna say it came in around 0.25ohm)

 

[dre]

Anyone wanna do a trade for 30g ni200 for some my 28g I'm so broke building this damn dna40 mod 4 times I can't afford wire till next month.

 

[dre]

Here's a trick to mount a 28-gauge nickel coil onto an atty with post holes securely and without breaking the legs:

Folded over 4 times like this, the legs are just about impossible to crush, and you can tighten the hell out of the post screws.

What Atty is that? I'm looking for a nice two post Atty for ni200 builds.