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NI200 Coil Builds with a DNA 40 Device

Giraut

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What Atty is that? I'm looking for a nice two post Atty for ni200 builds.

It's a JDTech Manta V2. Nice RDA, cleverly designed, almost leak-proof and the easiest deck to build on I've ever used. Trouble is, it's stupidly expensive. I only have one because someone I love offered it to me, but I'd never shell out that much money for a stupid RDA myself.

Still, a nice RDA...

manta-rda.jpg


 

dre

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I borrowed some 30g kanthal andntwisted it with 28g ni200 and wow that's where it's at. Can vape at 30w at410° and not hit tp
 

Giraut

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Does anybody vape 100% VG with TP on? If so, how high do you set the temperature?
 

dre

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It's a JDTech Manta V2. Nice RDA, cleverly designed, almost leak-proof and the easiest deck to build on I've ever used. Trouble is, it's stupidly expensive. I only have one because someone I love offered it to me, but I'd never shell out that much money for a stupid RDA myself.

Still, a nice RDA...

manta-rda.jpg


Well I found the clone on fast tech and asked for this for x mas and looks like I may be getting it :) if I like it I'll get the real thing once I can afford it.
 

T702

Member For 4 Years
I had a 0.7 ohm twisted 28ga build on mine, sucked. ..now I have a 24ga 0.4ohm, way better...I'm not liking the afc but I'm getting the hang of it.
 

dmall

Member For 4 Years
I use a strand of 30ga kanthal twisted worry 30ga ni200 and it's working great. Adds strength and tc still works great.
Here's my dna40 bottom feeder, I love it. I should have read the second page first, I see you made it yourself!!! Great job, wish I knew how to do that.
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Where did you get this mod? Or did you build it yourself? I want one! Thanks
 
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Bow2King

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guys how do i get a warmer vape on this thing right now my coils is at a .10 ohm and i have the temperature at 450f and at 25w the build is on a sub tank mini btw??
 

Bow2King

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whats a good range for coils?? my first one i built came out to .10 on a sub tank mini, was just wondering what ohms you guys were using??
 

Giraut

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0.2 ohm here. I think 0.1 ohm is kinda low actually: the Evolv spec sheet says it's the lower limit. I bet your build would work better if it wasn't so close to the limit.

Also, the lower your coil's resistance is, the more the resistance of the connecting wires in your mod and connecting hardware in and around the atomizer start skewing the measurements. You'd be better off with a higher resistance.
 

jvape78

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Hey guys I have 2 40 watt temp control mods on the way and should be here late this coming week so I'm doing some homework and I'll say this has been a great thread! Anyhow I was at my local shop picking up the delta 2 and kanger mini (both have the little head to self build on)and I asked the dork at the counter what gauge of the ni200 is most popular and he shrugged his shoulders and looked at me funny. .so I just grabbed a spool of 26ga and rolled out. .. I haven't read of anyone using that thick of ni200 here so could someone comment as to if it's worthless and I should exchange it, or can it be used on those little heads like the delta and kanger mini?I also want to build on big decks like the mutation x v3 and plume. . I'm already going to buy 28 and 30 gauge after reading this. Those twisted 30-30 setups seem awesome btw.
 

Bow2King

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I've been using 28g, but thats the only one i have been using, has been working well for me!! and i also have a sub tank mini!
 

vape.queen

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Hey guys! I'm using a kayfun tank with a smok magneto and am currently using 28g kanthal for making my single coils. I tried 24g at 8 wraps and it basically got so hot so fast it was useless. I have read about some successful single coils being made but idk wtf to do, lol. Any suggestions on how many wraps to do or any other advice? Thanks.
 

Bow2King

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ive had wraps come out between .12 and .15 i think it was like 6 or 7 wraps with 28g i was using a T8 hex screw though!!
 

vape.queen

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Yeah, only reason I even tried a diff gauge was because I found I was constantly needing to change my 28g coil so often, it is really a pain in the ass! Wanted something I could chill with for longer than 2 days ya know?
 

Bow2King

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should last longer than that i would assume i havent been using it long!
 

jvape78

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Hey guys! I'm using a kayfun tank with a smok magneto and am currently using 28g kanthal for making my single coils. I tried 24g at 8 wraps and it basically got so hot so fast it was useless. I have read about some successful single coils being made but idk wtf to do, lol. Any suggestions on how many wraps to do or any other advice? Thanks.
That's a mech mod isn't it? Have you tried making a parallel coil with 7 wraps on a 3mm with that 24 ga? That will get you about .300. It's my Fav for only a 1 coil setup.
 

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jvape78

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Never mind. .didn't see the kayfun part lol
 

Giraut

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I finally managed to build a dual-coil setup that works well with the DNA40: it's a dual 15-wrap 30-gauge 2.5mm I.D. coil setup in a Rogue RDA. It reads at 0.21 ohm. But boy! this thing is a PITA to build: the wire is so fragile it's almost impossible to wick the coils without breaking them. I can't even use cellucotton because it creates too much friction. I've had to use softer carded cotton instead.

But now that it works, the flavor is off the chart!

Dual_15-wrap_30-ga_ni200_build_zpssq8xvd8v.jpg
 

Giraut

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Here's one of my first builds with 30/30 ka1/ni200: (I wanna say it came in around 0.25ohm)

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Say @T702, have you compared the temp setting in your DNA40 with twisted kanthal/nickel wire, compared to the temp setting with same build with only nickel wire?

I'm asking because I've rebuilt my Rogue twice with dual 12-wrap, 32-gauge nickel-only coils, and twice with the same coils but made of twisted 32-ga nickel / 34-ga kanthal wire, and same wicking. With nickel only, the resistance reads 0.20 ohm and the ideal temp is 480F. With nickel / kanthal, the resistance reads 0.17 ohm and the ideal temp is 520F.

My calculations show the cold resistance difference is correct, but the temp difference seems a little high, even taking into account the skewing of the hot nickel wire's resistance due to the kanthal wire in parallel. Not that it prevents TC from working, but I was wondering if you experience something similar with your builds.
 

Zamazam

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I rarely vape anything lower than 80/20 because of a sensitivity to Pg, but yes I do lower it to 25 watts and 450-460.
 

Giraut

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Yeah okay. That fits.

PG doesn't play too nice with me either, but every once in a while, I vape commercial juices that contain it. I find that any time I vape something less viscous than straight glycerin that contains PG, I have to lower the temperature also.
 

dre

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I posted my go to subtank rba build which is the bees knees 40w @470 all day long holding 38-40 watts with no throttling down.
 

Cloudboss

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what advantages do the no contact coils have when you are building on a temp reg
 

Rommel

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Well, in a nutshell :D The DNA40 struggles to keep track of temperature if the wraps are touching and that causes all kinds of bad times to the vaper. Or vapee, girls build too.
 

dingo1799

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Nickel is a bitch. But the payoff is worth it lol
 

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dre

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Triple 30g 3.5mm diameter ohms out to .10. My go to build with RTA like lemo and delta 2. Run it at 40w @420° almost never hit temp protect
4eec20a56bf865ed5b3b8111301aebcf.jpg
 
I must admit I've been a little unimpressed with TC over the past month of using it... Never quite seems as satisfying as kanthal builds. Until now I just twisted up a couple strands of 30ga ni200 and put 10 wraps into my subtank mini. It was surprisingly easy and holy crap did it change the vape quality! I'm thoroughly impressed now.

Thanks to everyone posting about their twisted builds. It really helped me out a lot.
 

Giraut

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I must've been lucky, TC has worked great for me from the get go. But at least with RDAs, I think it had a lot to do with what atomizer you use: not very many of them yield good results immediately in single coil mode. Sometimes it takes some experimenting to get one to perform if it hasn't been specifically designed to run well in a single coil. As for dual nickel coils, while it's possible, it's too much work for me: I've all but given up on it.

Come to think of it, I realize now that I don't remember what a dry hit tastes like. That's how good TC has been to me.
 

dre

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FYI twisted 28g with a 3.5mm diameter only takes 6/7 wraps to reach .10 it's working better then my tri 30g in all my RTA and RDA's
MUST BE TWISTED TIGHTLY TILL IT BREAKS
 
im not getting a flask i meant a dna40.. this is the video i was talking about though

Hi all, I picked up the Vaporshark rdna 40 I've had it about a week and have been playing around trying to find a decent coil build. I have done both contact and spaced coils, but my builds have been on drippers not tanks, So far this is the best video i have seen, Thank You M5amhan. I have 28 gauge on the way i actually have 26 gauge i started with, I see a lot of you saying it is much easier to do the spaced coils, that the contact coils are very unforgiving but I have had much better luck with the contact coil method 15-18 wraps around a 2.4 mm screwdriver seems to work great i end up with a 0.12 ohm reading, and I have been using the japanese organic cotton pads for my wicking, running at 450 degrees and between 25-30 watts My juice is an 80 vg 20 pg mix also I would like to know is anyone else using a 26 gauge wire and what is the most use or prefered gauge of NI ? Also I have been seeing people using titanium wire in place of the Ni 200 any thoughts WIN_20150417_083855.JPG on that ?
 

Giraut

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Member For 4 Years
Can you dry burn these coils when they gunk up? Or how do you clean them?

For what it's worth, I've just tried the heat-dunk-anneal cleaning method on a really gunky Ni200 coil: it works dandy. One dunk and it's squeaky clean. But there are three caveats:

- It seems to be rather hard on the coil: mine deformed a bit after dunking. This doesn't seem to happen with kanthal. I simply straightened the coil after annealing with a screwdriver, and it seems fine though. The resistance also increased by .02 ohm, but then it does so when I do the first dry-burn on a new coil anyway, so it may or may not be related to the thermal shock.

- Don't dunk the coil with TC enabled: the DNA40 seems to lose its marbles completely for a while afterward :) I suppose the sudden drop in resistance confuses the hell out of the base resistance measurement fine-tuning algorithm.

- Dry the atomizer, coil and posts thoroughly before re-wicking, else the temperature regulation won't quite work properly until all the water is gone.

I'll keep doing this method on this coil as it gets gunky again, to see if it lasts any longer than when I dry-burn it clean. Stay tuned...

EDIT: I made this video, to show how it works with Ni200 coils:

 
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dre

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Anyone wanna trade ni200 with me? I have lots of 28 for your 26 pm me if interested.
 

dingo1799

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I don't understand why the use of 26ga. Nickel wire's almost nonexistent resistance is multiplied even less with bigger ga wires. 30 and 32 are a bit of a bitch, but far from impossible. I have no problems wrapping 32 ni200, just a few more steps and being a little more careful. Yesterday I did a .45Ω single coil (16 wraps), 3mm, spaced...ramp up time is less than half a second, and vapor production is stupidly insane for 11w. According to steam engine, same with 28ga would have been 50some wraps.
 

Rommel

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28ga has been the best i've tried, and i have 32, 30 and 28 in stock. For single coils at least. 10 wraps around 3mm mandrel, set in my Lemo with the airflow about half open and i can fire away at 30w and 470F and never hit TC. Same thing with 30 gauge and it was letting me vape at about 11-13w and constantly hitting TC, giving no flavor or that warmth that we all love.
 

f1r3b1rd

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I don't understand why the use of 26ga. Nickel wire's almost nonexistent resistance is multiplied even less with bigger ga wires. 30 and 32 are a bit of a bitch, but far from impossible. I have no problems wrapping 32 ni200, just a few more steps and being a little more careful. Yesterday I did a .45Ω single coil (16 wraps), 3mm, spaced...ramp up time is less than half a second, and vapor production is stupidly insane for 11w. According to steam engine, same with 28ga would have been 50some wraps.
I have a 26g build in my lemo2 right now, 10 wraps spaced at 3mm diameter. I built it for my sxmini and wanted to compare the two. VSDNA40 is reading it at a 0.09 and its a wonderful smooth flavorful cloudy vape-lol
40w and 430 degrees.
granted I usually use 28g in my dual coil builds and this is one of only two single coil attys I have but the 26g has served me well in single coils
 
So I have been doing a lot of research on temp builds, and found there are many switching over to pure titanium coils. I picked up some it's 28 gauge and with 5 wraps around a 2.4 mm screwdriver in my patriot rda I get .18 ohms running at 400 F and 20 watts. I get a ton of vapor, and flavor, and the temp control works great. The wire is much more sturdy, you can heat the coils up and pinch them together to make a contact coil with ease, wicking and rewicking is just as easy as using kanth. So far it has been working great, taste great, and sets off the temp control far less than the Ni200. I know there is controversy over whether or not Titanium is safe, but there are places selling cartos with titanium wire (not that this is a sole reason to use it,) and I have gotten no ill taste, or side effects yet. (YET!!! ) I can run at a much lower wattage, and temp, and still get clouds and great flavor. The key is making sure you use Surgical Grade 1. iv'e also heard it can flash over, well the melting temp is 1,668 C.and I am vaping far below that temp So it's up to each person to weigh the facts and decide themselves if they want to use Ti 1 for temp control vaping Just thought I would throw this into the mix. Thoughts?
 

livelongandvape

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Like you
So I have been doing a lot of research on temp builds, and found there are many switching over to pure titanium coils. I picked up some it's 28 gauge and with 5 wraps around a 2.4 mm screwdriver in my patriot rda I get .18 ohms running at 400 F and 20 watts. I get a ton of vapor, and flavor, and the temp control works great. The wire is much more sturdy, you can heat the coils up and pinch them together to make a contact coil with ease, wicking and rewicking is just as easy as using kanth. So far it has been working great, taste great, and sets off the temp control far less than the Ni200. I know there is controversy over whether or not Titanium is safe, but there are places selling cartos with titanium wire (not that this is a sole reason to use it,) and I have gotten no ill taste, or side effects yet. (YET!!! ) I can run at a much lower wattage, and temp, and still get clouds and great flavor. The key is making sure you use Surgical Grade 1. iv'e also heard it can flash over, well the melting temp is 1,668 C.and I am vaping far below that temp So it's up to each person to weigh the facts and decide themselves if they want to use Ti 1 for temp control vaping Just thought I would throw this into the mix. Thoughts?

Like you I have been really researching Titanium wire. I have been using 6 wrap Gr1 24 gauge duals in my Aeolus on the DNA 40 and it is great. However I keep them spaced, never dry fire or torch and keep them juiced!
 

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