Hey @MacTechVpr, any tips on the techniques/tools for wrapping a TMC? Really like to give that a try. Gives me an excuse to break away from the noisy cricket and play around with my SMPL again.
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Nichrome ruined me
- Thread starter jamieg71
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Can do it with a simple explanation. You need preferably a pin vise and a common drill bit like 2.5mm or 7/64". The approach I suggest is to just wrap a turn or two just tight enough to bend them around the bit. Then, begin to pull on the wire. It's best to do this by keeping the point of the PV right on the edge of the [spool]. This makes the length of wire from spool to bit very short and gives you the maximum of control and leverage. Start increasing the push away with your thumb on the pv and pull away (or restrain) with your alt hand holding the spool. Don't allow the PV to come off the edge. It's a simple but deliberate rotation of the PV as you pull away from the spool. You'll begin to see the turns tighten up as you increase the tension. Let go after a couple of turns. The turns may actually separate. But when you've added just enough strain, they are virtually locked in relationship to each other. If you try and separate them they'll snap back into the shape they were wound. It's just a bit beyond this point that gives you the optimal strain. What I refer to as adhesion is actually just crossing the threshold where the wire starts to stretch. There you have it.
Might take you 10 or 15 mins to work that out. If it's takin' longer you're trying to hard and missing it. Put it aside and try another time. Once you've done it a few times you've burned it into muscle memory and gained the necessary hand-eye coordination. After this, it's much easier to recall.
Once done, you'll reap the benefits that this level of strain delivers in stabilizing electrical flow. This results from the far faster and more thorough surface oxidation you can then attain with low-voltage pulsing. This locks the rigidity of the wind and insulates the contact making for a far more stable and uniform temp output. It's a very real phenomena which coupled with the advantage of concentrated contact (rather than spacing) should inc vaporization rate by a min of 20%. That is an estimate but a very conservative one based on my survey of many hundreds of users who've learned to tension wind or sampled the result.
Once in your kit, it'll be the vape you compare everything you wind to. Although I still do various forms of multi-wire builds, I'm a low ohm builder these days and rely on strain to get the production and density I require from my vape. That combination, volume and density, is the challenge. Diffusion is easy with power. But real vapor production is truly dependent upon vaporization efficiency.
Good luck rob.
p.s. Try to take a peek at your winds with a magnifying glass. Over time you'll see that small gaps may result from slight imperfection in the wire. These usually result in small gray or uneven surface temp when you dry pulse to oxidize and usually can be resolved with some very light pressure of a ceramic tweezers. t.m.c.'s don't need to be squeezed into existance. They are just as perfect as nature will allow.
Might take you 10 or 15 mins to work that out. If it's takin' longer you're trying to hard and missing it. Put it aside and try another time. Once you've done it a few times you've burned it into muscle memory and gained the necessary hand-eye coordination. After this, it's much easier to recall.
Once done, you'll reap the benefits that this level of strain delivers in stabilizing electrical flow. This results from the far faster and more thorough surface oxidation you can then attain with low-voltage pulsing. This locks the rigidity of the wind and insulates the contact making for a far more stable and uniform temp output. It's a very real phenomena which coupled with the advantage of concentrated contact (rather than spacing) should inc vaporization rate by a min of 20%. That is an estimate but a very conservative one based on my survey of many hundreds of users who've learned to tension wind or sampled the result.
Once in your kit, it'll be the vape you compare everything you wind to. Although I still do various forms of multi-wire builds, I'm a low ohm builder these days and rely on strain to get the production and density I require from my vape. That combination, volume and density, is the challenge. Diffusion is easy with power. But real vapor production is truly dependent upon vaporization efficiency.
Good luck rob.
p.s. Try to take a peek at your winds with a magnifying glass. Over time you'll see that small gaps may result from slight imperfection in the wire. These usually result in small gray or uneven surface temp when you dry pulse to oxidize and usually can be resolved with some very light pressure of a ceramic tweezers. t.m.c.'s don't need to be squeezed into existance. They are just as perfect as nature will allow.
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I got a 3mm 5 wrap fused frame clapton Ni80 coil with my Wotofo Profile and I’m trying out Ni80 for the first time.
Pros:
+ Amazing flavour
+ Short ramp up and ramp down time
+ High resistance coil, easy on the battery
Cons:
- Spitback City
- Questionable in terms of the health effects of vaping Nickel based coils
- Hotspot City, took quite a bit of strumming and squeezing to get it to glow nice and evenly
Verdict:
Great flavour, quick ramp up time but I’m getting a much smoother vape with almost no spitback at all with my A1/SS316L alien wire, so I’ll likely stick with that.
Pros:
+ Amazing flavour
+ Short ramp up and ramp down time
+ High resistance coil, easy on the battery
Cons:
- Spitback City
- Questionable in terms of the health effects of vaping Nickel based coils
- Hotspot City, took quite a bit of strumming and squeezing to get it to glow nice and evenly
Verdict:
Great flavour, quick ramp up time but I’m getting a much smoother vape with almost no spitback at all with my A1/SS316L alien wire, so I’ll likely stick with that.
So you haven’t noticed a difference in flavor between ni80 and ss316l? I just bought I spoil of ni80 to play with but if it doesn’t make a difference I’ll stick with ss. Can ni80 be used in tc AND power mode?
No. N80 is power mode only. SS used in either power or tc
Been building for over three years. You can find me in the builders corner. I’m all N80 all day. Unless I’m just trying to get a crazy color combination for the hell of it.
