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ohm meter/coil question

Bryan92081

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I've been building 6/5 wrap 24 gauge coils and they've been reading at 0.2 ohms on the meter I have from the local vape shop. I decided to try a 8/7 wrap trying for around 0.4 ohms thinking I would get a little cooler vape. I dropped my atty on the meter and it also read at 0.2. Do I have a defective ohm meter?
 

MKPM

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I've been building 6/5 wrap 24 gauge coils and they've been reading at 0.2 ohms on the meter I have from the local vape shop. I decided to try a 8/7 wrap trying for around 0.4 ohms thinking I would get a little cooler vape. I dropped my atty on the meter and it also read at 0.2. Do I have a defective ohm meter?
Normally you gain a tenth of an ohm per wrap with 22g...that should increase by double with 24g. Always make sure that your post screws are snug before you take a reading. Even a slight looseness will yield a false measurement.
 

OB61887

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What Foggy said. Also, check for any shorts. It can happen when the coil touches the top cap or tank which is why you should always read it with them on. Also, for future builds I would check out http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp. Going from a macro to micro coil (3mm to 1.3mm) with 8 wraps of 24 can take you from .4ish to .2ish.
 

Bryan92081

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I checked ohms before i fired it off, fired it then finished squeezing and setting the coils, retightened my post screws then checked again. I'm still getting a .2 reading. I had just found the link to steam engine that was just posted and their calculator shows a 6/5 wrap for .2 and a 12/11 wrap for .4. I'm using a 2mm screwdriver to wrap on. The app I have shows different than steam engine so I assume my app is wrong. I can see how I'm not at my target ohm after seeing that. My main concern is that my ohm reader doesn't show any difference between a 6/5 and a 8/7. I've never had this problem with it before.
 

MKPM

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I checked ohms before i fired it off, fired it then finished squeezing and setting the coils, retightened my post screws then checked again. I'm still getting a .2 reading. I had just found the link to steam engine that was just posted and their calculator shows a 6/5 wrap for .2 and a 12/11 wrap for .4. I'm using a 2mm screwdriver to wrap on. The app I have shows different than steam engine so I assume my app is wrong. I can see how I'm not at my target ohm after seeing that. My main concern is that my ohm reader doesn't show any difference between a 6/5 and a 8/7. I've never had this problem with it before.
There is a reason why those readers are so inexpensive lol. Every manufacturing process has an off-day.
 

Bryan92081

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There is a reason why those readers are so inexpensive lol. Every manufacturing process has an off-day.
Is there any particular brand or supplier I should check with for another ohm reader?
 

MKPM

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Is there any particular brand or supplier I should check with for another ohm reader?
I have no idea if I'm honest. I have the typical black one that accommodates both 510 and eGo atties.
 

Bryan92081

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I have no idea if I'm honest. I have the typical black one that accommodates both 510 and eGo atties.
Lol. I appreciate your honesty. They're probably all made in the same plant anyway.
 

Bryan92081

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While we're on the subject of coils, I was wondering does a lower ohm coil mean more vapor? This one I just wrapped has more wraps than the last one I made, but seems to put out considerably more vapor.
 

Bryan92081

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What Foggy said. Also, check for any shorts. It can happen when the coil touches the top cap or tank which is why you should always read it with them on. Also, for future builds I would check out http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp. Going from a macro to micro coil (3mm to 1.3mm) with 8 wraps of 24 can take you from .4ish to .2ish.
I've been using a 2mm coil. I tried a 3mm and didn't really care for it. Is dry hit an issue with a coil as small as 1.3mm?
 

MKPM

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While we're on the subject of coils, I was wondering does a lower ohm coil mean more vapor? This one I just wrapped has more wraps than the last one I made, but seems to put out considerably more vapor.
A hotter coil will heat juice further into the wick which results in increased vapour. More surface area on the coil (more wraps, more diametre) also equals more vapour and flavour. A lot depends on the efficiency of the wick. You know your wick is efficient when it unloads evenly...meaning that when you start to have a dry hit...the ENTIRE wick is dry....not wet ends. Another contributor to vapour is the amount of incoming air is mixing with the atomised juice.
 

Jwilzz

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While we're on the subject of coils, I was wondering does a lower ohm coil mean more vapor? This one I just wrapped has more wraps than the last one I made, but seems to put out considerably more vapor.

There's different variables. With the more wraps you are getting more surface area.

Just depends on the build.
 

Bryan92081

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A hotter coil will heat juice further into the wick which results in increased vapour. More surface area on the coil (more wraps, more diametre) also equals more vapour and flavour. A lot depends on the efficiency of the wick. You know your wick is efficient when it unloads evenly...meaning that when you start to have a dry hit...the ENTIRE wick is dry....not wet ends. Another contributor to vapour is the amount of incoming air is mixing with the atomised juice.
I guess this is one of those "to each his own" kind of situations. One things for sure I'm gonna have to get a bulk roll of kanthal. The little 2 foot repackaged looking ones from the vape shop are gonna get expensive if I keep wrapping half a dozen different kinds of coils every night.
 

MKPM

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I get my wire in 100' spools from Lightening Vapes on ebay. I think I pay like $7 to $9 a spool.
 

Bryan92081

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I get my wire in 100' spools from Lightening Vapes on ebay. I think I pay like $7 to $9 a spool.
Well...I'll be doing that from now on to then. I get mine for about a dollar a foot. Hell of a mark up locally. Of course rent on that new building probably isn't cheap.
 

MKPM

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Well...I'll be doing that from now on to then. I get mine for about a dollar a foot. Hell of a mark up locally. Of course rent on that new building probably isn't cheap.
True
 

OB61887

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They will mark it up, and they should considering they should be where you go if you need something now. Only way to compete with online. I pay $2 for 4 balls of organic if I go to a B&M. But I get it.

I also get the lightning vapes but I get mine on amazon.
 

Bryan92081

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I actually like the local b&m, they have great service and top of the line products. I used to do all my business there when I started vaping. The deal changer for me was when I started dripping. Its real easy for your vaping habit to exceed your smoking habit. To bad its so hard to compete with online pricing.I still try and send everyone I can their way.I would hate to see the locals shops go, that's for sure.
 

madmonkey

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This is the one I have. Works great for me and everyone I know that has one.

http://www.fasttech.com/product/1721501-atomizer-resistance-tester-ohm-meter

I'll have to get one of those and try it out myself....it says it's accurate to .01 which if true would be awesome because most, not all but most, are advertised specs as being accurate to +/- .04 which when you start getting down below .3 is a scary wide number to be off by...especially if you're going for something like .15 and it's really a .11 coil...that's a huge jump in amp draw
 

Bryan92081

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I'll have to get one of those and try it out myself....it says it's accurate to .01 which if true would be awesome because most, not all but most, are advertised specs as being accurate to +/- .04 which when you start getting down below .3 is a scary wide number to be off by...especially if you're going for something like .15 and it's really a .11 coil...that's a huge jump in amp draw
Yeah most definitely. I try not build below .2 myself just because it's not worth the risk to me personally. I just rebuilt a 454 big block tonight with a quad 24 gauge vertical set up. It checked at .24. After I vaped it for a while I rebuilt my galaxy and realized that my meter might be screwed I went back and checked the 454. It checked .11. That's a HUGE diffence! Mod got so damn hot it was scary. Pulled the battery and it didnt seem overly warm. I think it was just heat transfer from the atty.
 

madmonkey

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Yeah most definitely. I try not build below .2 myself just because it's not worth the risk to me personally. I just rebuilt a 454 big block tonight with a quad 24 gauge vertical set up. It checked at .24. After I vaped it for a while I rebuilt my galaxy and realized that my meter might be screwed I went back and checked the 454. It checked .11. That's a HUGE diffence! Mod got so damn hot it was scary. Pulled the battery and it didnt seem overly warm. I think it was just heat transfer from the atty.

Yeah...my mod gets warm sometimes but the battery feels cool too. it's an eerie feeling though to say the least....

even with using my VTC 3/5's in my mechs I have two ohms meters i use and now that I have a dna40 as well. anything below .4 I check against all three. I don't build below .3 because I prefer a cooler vape and I don't have a super cloud chasing atty to keep it where I like it but I like to play with different builds from time to time and blow big clouds like other people so I average the three readings and if I don't feel it's safe I don't use it and start again
 

Jwilzz

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Yeah most definitely. I try not build below .2 myself just because it's not worth the risk to me personally. I just rebuilt a 454 big block tonight with a quad 24 gauge vertical set up. It checked at .24. After I vaped it for a while I rebuilt my galaxy and realized that my meter might be screwed I went back and checked the 454. It checked .11. That's a HUGE diffence! Mod got so damn hot it was scary. Pulled the battery and it didnt seem overly warm. I think it was just heat transfer from the atty.

The risk isn't AS huge as people make it out to be. Your battery won't just blow up all of the sudden. It'll leak battery acid and be extremely hot before it happens. You'll know something is up before it blows up lol. But still good to be safe. :) I run low ohms. Like pushing 30a on a 30a battery. Cause even if the continuous rate is 30a the pulse is higher. Just gotta know what you're doing and how to identify when it's too much lol.
 

OB61887

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Even though I don't know how regulated mods handle the amperage, I still feeling safe building on my Sigeleis down to the limit with VTC4s and HE2s.
 

madmonkey

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The risk isn't AS huge as people make it out to be. Your battery won't just blow up all of the sudden. It'll leak battery acid and be extremely hot before it happens. You'll know something is up before it blows up lol. But still good to be safe. :) I run low ohms. Like pushing 30a on a 30a battery. Cause even if the continuous rate is 30a the pulse is higher. Just gotta know what you're doing and how to identify when it's too much lol.

I understand that a battery won't just pop unless its faulty/damamged or the instant drain is so stressful the battery just freaks and lets go...but I don't have a super cloud chasing atty (the biggest airflow I have is either two cylon slots on my storm V2 or my 1/8 inch hole on my pyrex cap for my patriot,) but I am a flavor chaser and prefer a cooler vape anyways so I don't see the point of melting my face and lungs with a super low build...and just because I can push a battery to 30 amps and pulse it higher doesn't mean it's always a great idea. When I write a post like that I write it keeping in mind that there might be brand new coil builders and mech users out there that don't know ohms law and battery safety and don't want to give them the idea that they can just push their battery to the max out the gate and everything is going to be ok....things can go wrong and I'd rather speak from a margin of safety...even being safe I've had a coil short and spark on me and kill a Sony battery...luckily it didn't leak and vent but it sparked the atty and cracked like a small lightening bolt and instantly drained the battery dead and all I did was pulse the switch as I was about to pinch a new coil....who knows what would have happened if I had held it....and it happened because the atty I was using had screws that wouldn't stay tight...it wiggled on me transfering it from the ohm reader to the mech just a little bit....so forgive me for being cautious....I didn't know a pinched lead from trying to tighten a it down and it still being a little loose would/could do that but sure as shit it did. scared the hell out of me....I've put a different screw in the atty since and still have to fight it but it hasn't sparked like that since but ill say it again...scared the hell out of me
 

Jwilzz

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I understand that a battery won't just pop unless its faulty/damamged or the instant drain is so stressful the battery just freaks and lets go...but I don't have a super cloud chasing atty (the biggest airflow I have is either two cylon slots on my storm V2 or my 1/8 inch hole on my pyrex cap for my patriot,) but I am a flavor chaser and prefer a cooler vape anyways so I don't see the point of melting my face and lungs with a super low build...and just because I can push a battery to 30 amps and pulse it higher doesn't mean it's always a great idea. When I write a post like that I write it keeping in mind that there might be brand new coil builders and mech users out there that don't know ohms law and battery safety and don't want to give them the idea that they can just push their battery to the max out the gate and everything is going to be ok....things can go wrong and I'd rather speak from a margin of safety...even being safe I've had a coil short and spark on me and kill a Sony battery...luckily it didn't leak and vent but it sparked the atty and cracked like a small lightening bolt and instantly drained the battery dead and all I did was pulse the switch as I was about to pinch a new coil....who knows what would have happened if I had held it....and it happened because the atty I was using had screws that wouldn't stay tight...it wiggled on me transfering it from the ohm reader to the mech just a little bit....so forgive me for being cautious....I didn't know a pinched lead from trying to tighten a it down and it still being a little loose would/could do that but sure as shit it did. scared the hell out of me....I've put a different screw in the atty since and still have to fight it but it hasn't sparked like that since but ill say it again...scared the hell out of me

Sorry to sound rude but I wasn't even talking to you man... Otherwise I would have quoted you. And believe me I'm all about safety, but I'm not about planting ideas into people's heads that aren't true. Even with practically the smallest resistance possible a battery leaks acid for like 3 minutes before it starts to blow and it's too hot to even touch. I never said it was a great idea, but I did say you need to know what you're doing and how to identify when to stop and when problems are occurring. And by the way, as far as a cool vape goes, I'm running .15 ohms on a dual parallel build and my vape isn't "melting my face and lungs". It's about the ramp up time not the ohms.
 

madmonkey

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Sorry to sound rude but I wasn't even talking to you man... Otherwise I would have quoted you. And believe me I'm all about safety, but I'm not about planting ideas into people's heads that aren't true. Even with practically the smallest resistance possible a battery leaks acid for like 3 minutes before it starts to blow and it's too hot to even touch. I never said it was a great idea, but I did say you need to know what you're doing and how to identify when to stop and when problems are occurring. And by the way, as far as a cool vape goes, I'm running .15 ohms on a dual parallel build and my vape isn't "melting my face and lungs". It's about the ramp up time not the ohms.

I also must apologize...I didn't mean to sound like asshole...I know you can get a cool vape that low...I just don't have the gear for it....I didn't mean to sound like a dick...you just offered one side of a coin and I wanted to offer the other....you can vape low and vape safe....but i feel it's just as important to show that things can happen even if you think your being careful...i got lucky...someone else might not...im sorry

please forgive me
 

Jwilzz

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I also must apologize...I didn't mean to sound like asshole...I know you can get a cool vape that low...I just don't have the gear for it....I didn't mean to sound like a dick...you just offered one side of a coin and I wanted to offer the other....you can vape low and vape safe....but i feel it's just as important to show that things can happen even if you think your being careful...

please forgive me

All good no hard feelings. Just personally when I got into vaping, the people at the stores would describe it being so dangerous you could fire it and boom it explodes. They still plant that idea into everyone that comes in. And while I agree with making people aware of the safety, I'd rather just educate them than say, "Hey you know these can explode right?"
 

madmonkey

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All good no hard feelings. Just personally when I got into vaping, the people at the stores would describe it being so dangerous you could fire it and boom it explodes. They still plant that idea into everyone that comes in. And while I agree with making people aware of the safety, I'd rather just educate them than say, "Hey you know these can explode right?"

No I get it...that's why I tell the story of a short...i dont exagerate and say the thing melted...but it sounded like a small arc welder and sparked...like i said, the battery didn't vent...but what you say is the exact reason I say what I say. take it slow...work your way down from high resistance to low, and learn about things and not just dive overboard....I feel bad...I didn't mean to sound like a dick....i was honestly just trying to speak to the other side of the coin as I said. besides...who wants really hot battery acid gunking up their nice shiney mod? that could really put a crimp in someones day o_O
 

madmonkey

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There is one more thing I must say....running .15 on a dual 18650 parallel is much safer than attempting to run it on a single 30amp battery because you have two batteries sharing the load you're not stressing them nearly as hard. but if you don't explain that to the new guy he's not gonna know that and think you're just using two batteries for longer run time

but still running batteries on pulse limits is dangerous....that pulse limit is meant as an emergency safety margin and not an end all standard to go by and it's foolish to do so. Feel free to disagree with me. Batteries need time to rest between "pulse limit draws" and chain vaping on the pulse limit CAN (not for sure but entirely possible) damage a battery or increase it's internal resistance and (for sure) shortening the life of the battery (and hopefully not) or worse...

And batteries can explode when they vent....watching a controlled vent test of a battery in a bucket or something similar on youtube isn't the end of of what happens when a battery shorts. When a hard short occurs and doesn't stop a battery begins to not just build up heat rapidly but also builds up pressure just the same....if the battery has room to expand than you might get lucky and just have it leak and steam and nothing else...but as with the case of most mech mods you only have some vent holes if any...if the vent holes on said mech are not sufficient to relieve the pressure building up inside the tube the mod itself can be stressed and blow apart even if the battery technically did not explode still making it dangerous.....

do I go around just saying batteries will explode if you're not careful? no...no I don't....I go around doing my best to explain battery safety basics as simply as possible....but it is in fact possible for your mod to blow apart all of a sudden....is it because these batteries are more dangerous than other batteries? no....all batteries are dangerous....but unlike more common batteries we're all familiar with we push these batteries to their limits over and over and over unlike AA or AAA batteries that we just put in the tv remote and they draw a tiny current with each push of a button.....we are using a lot of current out of a much more powerful battery and drawing that current at a much higher rate...therefore the risk for catastrophe is higher....it's not the battery....it's how the user uses it. The responsibility is ours and the more responsible we are as a community the less ammunition the government has to try in meddle with our vaping and regulate us. And that is why I said what I said...

Thank you all and have a wonderful vaping day and happy holidays from me and the monkey :)
 

freemind

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I get my wire in 100' spools from Lightening Vapes on ebay. I think I pay like $7 to $9 a spool.
You may want to look over at Amazon. I buy my 100 ft rolls for 5 to 7 bucks and don't need to buy 35 bucks worth of stuff for free shipping. Master of clouds is the seller I believe. Lots of wire over there for sale.

One of the few things Amazon beats ebay over.
 

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