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P4Y IPV D2 with Temp Control 75 watt Mod
- Thread starter Maverik_X
- Start date
I have no idea what limitations to really put on where you should LOCK resistance, maybe with my items i have to be deadly close to true resistance because there is still something going on to screw up the resistance reading while firing the coil. and if I am not that close it throws the calculations off too much. I just know whenever I set it and its off by more then about .006 it does not work right for me. Maybe your equipment is off, I really do not know. Just sharing my experiences so that maybe one of us will figure it out and teach the rest.
Matt is absolutely right that a poor connection totally messes up TC. In one of my billows I'd lost the screw and put in another from the packet (which looked slightly different and didn't seem as easy to screw in). I put in a new build, both my ohm meter and my SX mini read the resistance correctly, then 'dry coil.' I rewicked, ended up recoiling and same thing. On closer inspection one leg of a coil held in by the new screw didn't have a good connnection - changed it for another screw and everything worked perfectly (this took me most of the day to figure out).
well its my understanding that the temp and reistance change in TI and Ni is linear. different for each metal.
But the starting point changes things
so a coil that is .15 to start off with at room temp will reach 400F at a higher resistance then a coil that is .10 at room temp ( I may have that backwards)
Not sure exactly myself, all i do know is there is a reason we lock resistance at room temp and before you fire. that base line reading is crucial to the calculations and changing it changes the calculations
ok if everything is reading correctly on your mod and the coil, and you "trick it into a different resistance. I would think everything should work just fine. But the calculation will be slightly off and your going get to temp and not be at the temp the mod thinks. That may cause some minor issues. Im not quite sure why you would do this but whatever to each their own.
the issues I am discussing is when the mod is reading the wrong resistance from the get go. SO a .15 coil is being read as ,18 for example
Why is it reading it as .18 and not .15. There has to be a reason. to me theres only two reasons
1. the mod or coil is not at room temp - so just wait for them to cool down
2,. there is something wrong with the mod or coil
now if you know your mod is fine
and you can verify the resistance reading between the device and say an ohm meter, then there is something wrong with the coil which can only be in my mind 2 things
1. the build - hot leg, hot spot, contact where there shouldnt be, short etc
2. the connection between the coil and the mod's 510
now most of what i have been referring to involves when its #2.
so lets go back to that .15 coil reading at .18 because there is an issue between the coil and the mods 510 connection
so you lock it in at .18 because that is what the mod and your ohm reader are insisting it is. But it really is only .15.
in my experience what is going to happen is either
1. a really weak vape
or
2 dry coil message with a wet wick
and that makes sense. if its reading the initial resistance high then its probably reading the change in resistance to be larger then it really is so it thinks its at temp when its not. I suspect that when you have connection issues the change in resistance readings the mod makes from room temp to any other temp is not linear, therefor it really throws off TC. for example when that coil is hot enough to be .25, the mod reads it as .41
conversely if you have a .15 coil that is reading at say .13 the mod is throwing more power at it then it should. the readings are probably off while firing and not in a linear manner. the coils may be hot enough to be at .25 but the mod,because of a connection issue is reading it at .19 and it keeps giving it too much power and you get an extra hot vape and possibly as I did with 2 coils burn out the coil.
Now I have no science to back this all up. This is just what SEEMS to be happening to me when I have issues. This is all conjecture on my part.
my point is this. if your having issues with getting TC to work properly for you on a coil between 300-500F, it seems way too hot or way too cool or too weak and no temp or power will get you a full vape, etc check that the device is reading the original resistance correctly. If it is not then you probably have some sort of connection issue between the coil and the mod. and if you do have a connection issue you are not going to get TC to work well for you.
the issues I am discussing is when the mod is reading the wrong resistance from the get go. SO a .15 coil is being read as ,18 for example
Why is it reading it as .18 and not .15. There has to be a reason. to me theres only two reasons
1. the mod or coil is not at room temp - so just wait for them to cool down
2,. there is something wrong with the mod or coil
now if you know your mod is fine
and you can verify the resistance reading between the device and say an ohm meter, then there is something wrong with the coil which can only be in my mind 2 things
1. the build - hot leg, hot spot, contact where there shouldnt be, short etc
2. the connection between the coil and the mod's 510
now most of what i have been referring to involves when its #2.
so lets go back to that .15 coil reading at .18 because there is an issue between the coil and the mods 510 connection
so you lock it in at .18 because that is what the mod and your ohm reader are insisting it is. But it really is only .15.
in my experience what is going to happen is either
1. a really weak vape
or
2 dry coil message with a wet wick
and that makes sense. if its reading the initial resistance high then its probably reading the change in resistance to be larger then it really is so it thinks its at temp when its not. I suspect that when you have connection issues the change in resistance readings the mod makes from room temp to any other temp is not linear, therefor it really throws off TC. for example when that coil is hot enough to be .25, the mod reads it as .41
conversely if you have a .15 coil that is reading at say .13 the mod is throwing more power at it then it should. the readings are probably off while firing and not in a linear manner. the coils may be hot enough to be at .25 but the mod,because of a connection issue is reading it at .19 and it keeps giving it too much power and you get an extra hot vape and possibly as I did with 2 coils burn out the coil.
Now I have no science to back this all up. This is just what SEEMS to be happening to me when I have issues. This is all conjecture on my part.
my point is this. if your having issues with getting TC to work properly for you on a coil between 300-500F, it seems way too hot or way too cool or too weak and no temp or power will get you a full vape, etc check that the device is reading the original resistance correctly. If it is not then you probably have some sort of connection issue between the coil and the mod. and if you do have a connection issue you are not going to get TC to work well for you.
That's the thing, when I get a low reading turning up the temperature doesn't make up for that hits harder and faster.
I measure the length of my wire. My D2 likes to read lower than wire length and my 4 does so I warm it up a bit and lock it in where the length says it should be.
I'm curious how my second D2 compares.
My IPV4 will read 3.5" of Ti wire right at .35Ω like I figure it should be (probably a third decimal thrown in there, a 12" experiment probably came out a little short and read 1.2Ω but close enough for realistic lengths.
I've wondered about that, especially with dual coils.
I was reading one place saying throw that gauge concept out the window and think mass. Heavier mass will take longer to heat and cool. Lighter will be more responsive.
I'm afraid
I thought I had a screw driver here. I might have to open the case first to alleviate my fears, see what's in there. It's not much off to normal resistance thinking but enough that it's a lifeless vape.
Sorry all, my friend just recived an email from pioneer that they had step back delivery time since the first batch have an error chip (ohm jumping on resistance) and told me to wait until batch 2 release. So, its true there is some issue on ohm jumping lol
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So the reading of the actual ohms while heating wasn't a feature but a bug?
How do they miss that?
I will put some of the blame on beta testers and early reviewers. Stop being so enamored with the new shiny and actually test the stuff! (I say this because one review I saw showed it but only mentioned it in the comments. I know the same goes on with game betas-people just join to play not test.)
Oh well, if that is what they mean I'm glad I'll have 2 that do it. I think it's rather cool. Personally I think it was intentional and it's so many complaining that have it being called a bug. I haven't noticed any other ohm jumping.
It does point out the idiocy of not having an upgrade port. If this was (or is) a real problem would (or will) we all be getting a refund or replacements?
I though th esame.
I mean if there is something wrong with my D2 it is also the exact same problem on a fully upgraded 3Li. And I dont want it fixed. lol Both my D2 and 3Li work the same and I am happy. Now to just find the perfect tank
The ecig world is such a joy at times. Fanboys, haters, scammers, liars. Can't trust anyone.
I could see them changing it since as we've seen people are claiming their ohms are changing and giving bad reviews based on something they don't understand. But I don't see my ohms changing except how they're supposed to, seems consistent to me.
3Li shows the ohms change as the coil heats?
I'd love to find a squat 3ml subtank type for the D2.
My second one showed up. First clicked order on Thursday, showed up on Saturday. Second ordered on Saturday, showed up on Friday. Both Wake & Vape. That's consistency, USPS.
no the 3Li does not show real time resistance like the D2. I do not think that is what the poster is referring to, but maybe shim is. I like that feature, now what would be even cooler is if there were room on the screen to show the original resistance that was locked in, in case you forget or the buttons get bumped in your pocket or something screwing it up.
So are they recalling ones that were already sold or are some of us s.o.l
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My second one also came with a sleeve. Is there a tongue sticking out smilie?
I think if there is any truth to ohm jumping it has to be the read out or we'd notice. Just think how much of a problem .00xΩ of a difference makes when locking in.
I think if there is any truth to ohm jumping it has to be the read out or we'd notice. Just think how much of a problem .00xΩ of a difference makes when locking in.
That's what TC does. If .072 was set cold after the tank had set, the jumps you are seeing are the resistance rising as it heats up.
Maverik_X
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Attention Everyone your D2 mods are fine quite tripping out about the resistance change as it heats up. thats how tc works. its just showing the actual live resistance as the coil heats up. once you lock your resistance it stays there. Its just displaying the change.
@Mattp169 do not use a screwdriver to adjust the 510 pin on the d2 its soldered on the inside and you will break that connection.
@Mattp169 do not use a screwdriver to adjust the 510 pin on the d2 its soldered on the inside and you will break that connection.
Successfully vaped with TC for the first time just now.
Didn't do it with the Super Tank ni200 coils. Wrapped a 28ga, 7/64" 20 wrap ni200 coil in my derringer. Checked it on my crappy ohmmeter (that I don't trust) at 0.22 ohms. Spaced it as best I could after wrapping it. Wicked it loosely with Sheseido JC and loaded it up w/ my cereal DIY mix. Locked it in at 0.247 ohms and set temp to 325F. 35J.
She vaped nicely! It didn't blow my mind or change my life but hey, not bad for a first run without messing with the temp or power.
The derringer on the D2 is just...
Didn't do it with the Super Tank ni200 coils. Wrapped a 28ga, 7/64" 20 wrap ni200 coil in my derringer. Checked it on my crappy ohmmeter (that I don't trust) at 0.22 ohms. Spaced it as best I could after wrapping it. Wicked it loosely with Sheseido JC and loaded it up w/ my cereal DIY mix. Locked it in at 0.247 ohms and set temp to 325F. 35J.
She vaped nicely! It didn't blow my mind or change my life but hey, not bad for a first run without messing with the temp or power.
The derringer on the D2 is just...
Now... where's my cookie?
Maverik_X
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awesome I sometimes use a screw to space the coils. it makes them more uniform. bump up the joules to 50 and the temp at 420 ish and see how you like her. thats where I typically TL at. but it really depends on the mod and build.Successfully vaped with TC for the first time just now.
Didn't do it with the Super Tank ni200 coils. Wrapped a 28ga, 7/64" 20 wrap ni200 coil in my derringer. Checked it on my crappy ohmmeter (that I don't trust) at 0.22 ohms. Spaced it as best I could after wrapping it. Wicked it loosely with Sheseido JC and loaded it up w/ my cereal DIY mix. Locked it in at 0.247 ohms and set temp to 325F. 35J.
She vaped nicely! It didn't blow my mind or change my life but hey, not bad for a first run without messing with the temp or power.
The derringer on the D2 is just...
Now... where's my cookie?
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Turn your Joules down if you don't want it to be instantaneous. You can probably get them low enough it won't reach your desired temperature, but you can watch it slowly climb to the resistance that equals the temperature you set compared to where you locked it in at.
My D2 #2 gives the same lock in as D2 #1. About .018Ω less than my IPV4. Steam Engine's rating for 26ga Ti has it as .0927Ω/in which puts my 3.5" at 0.32445Ω, even less than what the D2's get.
When I started with 13" (or was it 14"?) made a stove top and cut off the ends it ended up 1.2 on an SVD. And everything else I've done with the IVP4 has had it come out to .1Ω/in.
When I bump the D2's up in warmth to lock .018Ω higher they work so much better. Of course they would it turns the heat up and causes it to have a really strong start up boost on a cold coil.
Normally I'd say the majority wins. In this case I'm going with dealing with these tiny measurements is a pain in the ass.
I need something to measure temperatures.
When I started with 13" (or was it 14"?) made a stove top and cut off the ends it ended up 1.2 on an SVD. And everything else I've done with the IVP4 has had it come out to .1Ω/in.
When I bump the D2's up in warmth to lock .018Ω higher they work so much better. Of course they would it turns the heat up and causes it to have a really strong start up boost on a cold coil.
Normally I'd say the majority wins. In this case I'm going with dealing with these tiny measurements is a pain in the ass.
I need something to measure temperatures.
Keysersoze. How's that mini tank. Where do u get coils from.
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Damn I just sold my subox two days ago. I would of traded u
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Go to wake and vape. They have a bundle for $55 plus 6 for shipping. Had mine at my door in 2 days.
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The tobeco mini super tank, I already have two D2's.
Tobeco says it's compatible with super tank coils but doesn't come with a rebuildable deck. Not clear if it works with a super tank deck or if those are available separately.
I read that somewhere the mini can take Atlantis coils
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ok so i have noticed an issue with mine, not sure if its the fact I have dropped it like 10 times now on hard floors and ground or what
about 1% of the time when I hit the fire button it says CHECK battery, even with a fully charged 25R or le hg2, hit it again and it works
anyone have nay thoughts. i checked the negative post and it was bent in slightly, so i bent it back. but besides that I am clueless
about 1% of the time when I hit the fire button it says CHECK battery, even with a fully charged 25R or le hg2, hit it again and it works
anyone have nay thoughts. i checked the negative post and it was bent in slightly, so i bent it back. but besides that I am clueless
I had that issue and it was due to taking out my battery alot. The negative tab was bent in enough that that battery wasn't making a good connection. Just carefully adjust the tab so its a better connection. I started using the charging port and the problem stopped.
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Try just charging by USB. It's a 1amp charger so its faster then most external chargers. My nitecore only does 750mah I think
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The mini takes the same coils as the original supertank. The Atlantis and Herakles coils work in both as well. It doesn't come with a rebuildable deck, but the anyvape rda also works.
The mini takes the same coils as the original. It also accepts Atlantis and Herakles coils. It does not come with a rebuildable head, but the Anyvape RDA works as well.
Nice, thanks for the tips. I've built a lot of spaced coils with Kanthal and always used a 8-32 screw. That's too wide of a spacing for this IMO. I looked in the drawer and have a M3 screw. Tried a 28ga ni200 wrap on that and it's perfect. Looks like 13-15 wraps will still fit in the derringer (if I can wick it without wrecking it).
You got 20 wraps in a Derringer?
You deserve two cookies.
Here... have a blueberry...
I did. It's ugly, has a hot spot and the spacing is shitty but it's in there.
But not as much fun
I can go down to 224 threads per inch (I figure it would take 56 to get 26ga .1mm apart). With the lathe I can any diameter I want and close enough to any spacing I want, plus make them fit in my coiler jig (or make one for that matter).
It's handy for making round things you don't want to pay for. Broke a leg on my bi-pod, made the gunsmithing tap, replacement leg and some extensions.
One of these days I'm going to make an RDA. Wanted to make a gennie but now I'm getting away from those.
One of these days I'm going to make an RDA. Wanted to make a gennie but now I'm getting away from those.
AdamIsAWFUL
Member For 4 Years
Just checking in with my feedback for those who may be ghosting the forums and aren't sure if they're ready to pull the trigger on this bad boy as I once was.
DO IT.
I'm kicking myself that I hesitated this long to pick one up! I'm a 55-70watt vaper that got sick of lugging my 100w massive box to work every day or when I was out and about and was looking for a compact option. I had my reservations about the battery life and performance of a single 18650 mod, but this bad boy gives me exactly what I need for a typical work day and/or night out bar hopping. I haven't tried TC yet, probably won't anytime soon, as a dripper it doesn't appeal to me much (yet). But as a little stealthy cloudchucker (oxymoron much?) this thing kicks ass simple and plain.
I'd like to thank you guys for all your comments and feedback throughout this thread because it allowed me to make an informed decision rather than impulse buying.
P.S. Get the rubber sleeve! Makes it feel much more solid and comfortable to use to hold.
DO IT.
I'm kicking myself that I hesitated this long to pick one up! I'm a 55-70watt vaper that got sick of lugging my 100w massive box to work every day or when I was out and about and was looking for a compact option. I had my reservations about the battery life and performance of a single 18650 mod, but this bad boy gives me exactly what I need for a typical work day and/or night out bar hopping. I haven't tried TC yet, probably won't anytime soon, as a dripper it doesn't appeal to me much (yet). But as a little stealthy cloudchucker (oxymoron much?) this thing kicks ass simple and plain.
I'd like to thank you guys for all your comments and feedback throughout this thread because it allowed me to make an informed decision rather than impulse buying.
P.S. Get the rubber sleeve! Makes it feel much more solid and comfortable to use to hold.
Absolutely agree with Adamisawful. This is a awesome lil mod.
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well i adjusted the negative contact, and my issue is not gone but reduce by at least half, so that negative contact CAN cause issues.
@dre most of my wall warts are .2a and .5.a I found a 1a but my i4 is a 1amp. I assume thats when only charging one battery, i think it drops the more batteries you try to charge at once. so if I am only charging 1 battery, theres no time difference.
@dre most of my wall warts are .2a and .5.a I found a 1a but my i4 is a 1amp. I assume thats when only charging one battery, i think it drops the more batteries you try to charge at once. so if I am only charging 1 battery, theres no time difference.
Because I have a coiler. Screws are backwards threaded for how the coiler is set up and how I've grown accustomed to making coils (I did consider buying screws and turning an end down for the coiler). Until TC I've made touching coils forever. Buying screws takes money and is more junk, I already have assorted thicknesses I can spread a coil with and have any spacing I want.
