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P4Y IPV D2 with Temp Control 75 watt Mod
- Thread starter Maverik_X
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Maverik_X
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still never got my damn cookies from grace smh looks like we were both robbed lol.It's on it's way to you. Interested to hear your opinion on it after you use it some.
Now we needa' get Boriqua into the D2... Mmmmm... delicious temperature controlll...
Come to the dark siiide... We have cookies.
And put your Orchid v11.6b rev4 on it?!
I haven't been back to TC mode with it yet but its a great little mod. I can see why some people with big hands would prefer something a little larger though. If it was any smaller it would be too small for my hands. Great in the pocket and good in the hand but my IPV Mini2 was made for my hand.
Ordered my 2nd one from Wake and Vape, it's shipped, they're on backorder again. My luck with D2 is amazing.
Sure it does, you just don't see it like you do on the D2.
If it didn't there wouldn't be temperature control.
You may be waiting a long time. I'm not finding anything that needs updated.
Sure it does, you just don't see it like you do on the D2.
If it didn't there wouldn't be temperature control.
You may be waiting a long time. I'm not finding anything that needs updated.
Maverik_X
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We wont ever see the day when that happens me tinks. lol
I think the quirkiness of the buttons is an issue; the display lighting dims quickly and then stays on for a full minute; the acceleration of the adjustment is just TOO DAMN HIGH; and I had thought they learned their dark screen overlay lesson with the early (silver?) IPV4.
You?
I don't think any of those things are going to be bothered with on a $50 mod that works. I haven't experienced button quirkiness, I guess I haven't been paying attention because I haven't seen any complaints about that.
I don't have a problem with the screen. If anything I'd say the display is too bright, but I tend to be light sensitive.
If they slowed the acceleration down (and I agree) there will be someone else who complains it's too slow. You simply can't please everyone.
Those nit picky complaints are not things they've done rebuilds for in the past. Those others had major problems. I have not experienced anything like that.
Exact same place it is on the iPV4. That's after updating so what makes you think that would be changed on a mod that can't be updated?
I never said it was the holy grail. I say it's $50 temperature control mod. Not something to be nit picked like you paid $200 for it.
I don't think your prediction of a broken connection is going to come true. I'm a small parts non-ferrous metal worker who makes and repairs very similar parts, what's your qualification? I heard you, I looked under magnification, the section you're worried about isn't flexing, the flat is arching.
Nah, I totally didn't. I just said I don't think they're going to come out with a D2S to fix your list. The others they've done that for didn't work (some obviously). This one does. Unless Phil Busardo exposes something not working or dangerous I don't see it happening.
I like the barrel connector, much easier on my eyes than trying to figure out how a micro USB goes in.
What firmware bugs? I've been following these threads since before release and haven't seen that, except from you without ever saying what they were.
I stated my issues when I got it. It's too small. Too fast. If I wanted to get picky too bright. But I'm not going to make stuff up just to criticize.
And my battery door was quite loose, fixed now.
I misunderstood. I thought since you mentioned where the temperature was buried to me saying don't expect a D2S that it should be something they'd change. I imagine they could change it but what they can and can't do with a chip is out of my league.
Button quirkiness like that I can see. They are too small and close together for my hands. Sometimes it's easy for me to lock in with my thumb. Other times I have to try and get two fingers in there. I haven't had a problem pushing the small ones when not intended.
For me it's the size of the mod, there's not much room for buttons. The fix for that would be to come out with an IPV Mini TC. That I could see happening.
I just hate that it's buried, because that's what I want to adjust more as I'm dialing in a build or a juice (Busardo agrees I found when I watched his 40TC review). Actually "dialing in" sounds too definitive... I'll be adjusting till I can't vape no more.
Nothing says that the menu/display code can't be revised, but I would say there's no incentive for them to do it. I've never handled the "high end" models but I've seen this and similar setup in vids.
Again... it's entirely subjective, no one's going to adapt to suit me... but I want both power and temp there on the screen, easily adjustable. And a pony.
I saw Pbusardo's 40TC video. I adjust temperature often for mood like he does and Joules does little for me (more like dialing rattlesnake in or out for a specific temperature most of the time but not really effecting vape experience). I understand.
Adjusting is something with the close D2 button arrangement I find easier than the 4.
It's the 5 clicks in that bothers me the most. After that it could have the temperature adjustment first. System off first is better than system on, but who shuts the system off? Mode, you're probably in the mode you want to be in, same with unit. Forget exit, 3 clicks in, adjust temperature, 3 clicks out. 5 clicks into the other settings.
But I do like it a little buried a little so it doesn't accidentally get adjusted.
I disagree with your opinion on the size. I think it's perfectly sized. I've got mitts like a bear and I loove small!
But I do understand your yearning for something a little... larger.
Firmware: (I believe will be fixed)
Display is much too fast.
Brightening and dimming behavior/timing is inappropriate and energy inefficient.
Our tastes are just different, that's all... (well that and I can plug in a usb cable.
And if you like the D2's obsolete cable 'cause it's easier to hit the hole', I say more power to ya!... at least you hit it.
But I doubt the masses will agree with you. People wanna charge with one of their 2 dozen m-usb cables in the drawer.
We wanna charge using our phone wire!
Again, I love my D2. It's my go-to mod. I want another one. But perfect it ain't. Sooo close though.
I wouldn't call too fast a bug, I'd say that's for people who reviewed other mods and said the acceleration was too slow.
Dimming may be, I've seen some odd/random behavior with that. But that's not going to be a rebuild D2S model, a rebuild would be for something like burning boards, buttons that don't work or other major problems.
I don't think it will ever become my go-to. Sub-tank is too top heavy, I can't build a TC gennie (yet). It's a nice size for dripping but drippers are for home use for me.
I don't pre-order or like unicorns.
Ok
I agree with @Myk they could let yu access temperature a faster way.
5 clicks must bring System Off first. Its just standard. Most devices turn off with 5 clicks. so thats what you expect to get first IMHO when you click 5 times.
But I do like the idea of having 2 different sets of clicks the isticks use 3 to change modes and 5 to power on and off so thats not unreasonable
So maybe just make 5 clicks on and off
3 clicks brings up the menu
temp should be first if you are in TC, then next should be power/tc mode then either F/C or Ni/Ti options
if your in power then it would default to power/tc mode option
OR
make a 3 tap on the + or - button allow you to change temp and after no activity for say 5 seconds it reverts the + and - buttons back to Joules. Actually I like that better. no menu to access or scroll through to exit. Triple tap + or - and they then allow you to control temp. DOnt push them for a few seconds they go back to adjusting Joules.
I agree with @Myk they could let yu access temperature a faster way.
5 clicks must bring System Off first. Its just standard. Most devices turn off with 5 clicks. so thats what you expect to get first IMHO when you click 5 times.
But I do like the idea of having 2 different sets of clicks the isticks use 3 to change modes and 5 to power on and off so thats not unreasonable
So maybe just make 5 clicks on and off
3 clicks brings up the menu
temp should be first if you are in TC, then next should be power/tc mode then either F/C or Ni/Ti options
if your in power then it would default to power/tc mode option
OR
make a 3 tap on the + or - button allow you to change temp and after no activity for say 5 seconds it reverts the + and - buttons back to Joules. Actually I like that better. no menu to access or scroll through to exit. Triple tap + or - and they then allow you to control temp. DOnt push them for a few seconds they go back to adjusting Joules.
Multiple taps on the +/- could catch you if you're single tapping your way to your number if you happen to be that far off. But I doubt if it would be a problem. If you're there you're done tapping. Fire could instantly back out of the temperature adjust.
I checked my M80 to make sure 5/3 would work. 3 gets into menu, 5 locks. So that could easily be workable. Which on the M80 it's 3 to get into the menu, scroll forward 5 to get to power on/off. Not that I'm in love with the M80 (other than 9v+ and battery time I hate it) but just an example.
I checked my M80 to make sure 5/3 would work. 3 gets into menu, 5 locks. So that could easily be workable. Which on the M80 it's 3 to get into the menu, scroll forward 5 to get to power on/off. Not that I'm in love with the M80 (other than 9v+ and battery time I hate it) but just an example.
Got mine today. Got to say it is replacing my Sig75 as the TC works better for me,the sigelei will be used as a standard 75 watt mod box from now on as nickel gives me a sore throat, and to be honest I don't think TC works well on the sig anyway. Might just be my one, but this is my first IPV, I own for 5 sigeleis, and it impresses me.
Shame about the workaround for using low watt devices in power mode, but the workaround works fine.
Also its a great vape to take out with low wattage devices with the workaround in joules mode, as It lasted from around 10:30 AM and was near empty at 7PM, so I put it on charge.
Lighter than the sig 75, but no means super light, feels heavier than the sig 30 mini.
A tiny, capable device that I am very happy with.
Shame about the workaround for using low watt devices in power mode, but the workaround works fine.
Also its a great vape to take out with low wattage devices with the workaround in joules mode, as It lasted from around 10:30 AM and was near empty at 7PM, so I put it on charge.
Lighter than the sig 75, but no means super light, feels heavier than the sig 30 mini.
A tiny, capable device that I am very happy with.
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Hey what are you doing photographing my mod and tank and posting it to the internet
This is my mod and tank. And I don't think u have same drip tip. Plus I doubt u have same car as me since that's where I took pic at. Lol
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Lmao. Yea. This is tank in using Til my uwell crown comes in mail. My crown is going on my ipv4s and my Atlantis 2 is going on d2. And then I'm selling Subox mod box and subtank mini
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Perfection (Single coil, so the airhole is open to the side facing the coil) :
20.5 joules, 220C, juice seems to go on forever between refills, and dry hits are a thing of the past. I have not got a sore throat off nickel today either, maybe it WAS because I was getting ill. I got some Ti on the way though, so can use that also.
This, along with my 150 is my favourite mod. The Sig75 is solidly built, but I feel this does TC better. In my experience anyway, maybe my sigs TC is not working correctly, although the voltage fluctuates so I guess it is? `It is a much less noticeable drop in power in the IPV, as on the sig one second is full power the next is hardly any vapour.
Juice also lasts much longer between RDA refills with this TC and I still get a nice cloud.
If there was no work around to use in low power Kanthal mode, I would be upset. But due to the workaround, I have used this mod all day, with a single coil 0.08 for TC Ni200, and a 0.6 micro coil build in my orchid, that requires only 14 watts to work, around 17 max, and 14.5-15 taste great on the orchid.
I would DEFINITELY buy this again if I lost it.
All my other mods are sigelei, but my first IPV device makes me realise they are also a good company, I may get another mod made by them.
I must have moditis, buying all these mods. They make me happy though, building makes me happy, and I enjoy juicemaking and vaping, and I still have saved at least £900 from giving up the stinkies. I think a few more mods, and I will be happy.
It is just deciding what mods to get! I am going to give myself a month before I get another one to get a full idea of this daily useage, but it is better than the sig in battery life. The only downside may be it is slightly less solid than the Sigelei75. I prefer the IPV though, hands down.
This, along with my 150 is my favourite mod. The Sig75 is solidly built, but I feel this does TC better. In my experience anyway, maybe my sigs TC is not working correctly, although the voltage fluctuates so I guess it is? `It is a much less noticeable drop in power in the IPV, as on the sig one second is full power the next is hardly any vapour.
Juice also lasts much longer between RDA refills with this TC and I still get a nice cloud.
If there was no work around to use in low power Kanthal mode, I would be upset. But due to the workaround, I have used this mod all day, with a single coil 0.08 for TC Ni200, and a 0.6 micro coil build in my orchid, that requires only 14 watts to work, around 17 max, and 14.5-15 taste great on the orchid.
I would DEFINITELY buy this again if I lost it.
All my other mods are sigelei, but my first IPV device makes me realise they are also a good company, I may get another mod made by them.
I must have moditis, buying all these mods. They make me happy though, building makes me happy, and I enjoy juicemaking and vaping, and I still have saved at least £900 from giving up the stinkies. I think a few more mods, and I will be happy.
It is just deciding what mods to get! I am going to give myself a month before I get another one to get a full idea of this daily useage, but it is better than the sig in battery life. The only downside may be it is slightly less solid than the Sigelei75. I prefer the IPV though, hands down.
Could be. I use my El cabron (Fave Rda, along with the velocity. I have a mutation x v4 and a mutation x v4 mini, I use the mini more if I am honest. The el cabron and the velocity is of much higher quality (My drippers are clones, the good ones are made by tobecco).
I do fill up the juice well to the top, so that may be why it lasts you less and me longer?
I didn't know a flooded tank takes more power to get up to temperature? Maybe I will stop doing that and just drip every few hits if it is a better experience?
I had a toastie (grilled cheese to the US people)
Try vaping with a few drops in VW, then flood it and try it at the same setting. I always had to turn it up when I flooded.
TC is giving me a never found joy with dripping. Even with TC there's a sweet spot, the bad spots just aren't as bad especially the dry hit bad spot.
How do I know if the ni coil is no good. Do u get a burnt taste. Like a regular coil
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Thats an excellent question
theoretically an Ni200 coil should never have burnt cotton.
So how do you tell
I am only on my 2nd ni200 coil. its going on about a week and it still works like new. The first one I had connections issues and I burnt the cotton somehow
So this is a great question. My guess is when it stops performing like it did new, its time to change it. Or if the resistance of it starts to jump around . I would assume most of these coils will last me a few weeks before needing repelaced.
But I would also guess that the cotton will get gunked up eventually and thats when its time for a change as well.
I am looking forward to other people's opinions on this
Oh, it doesn't even produce any vapour. I must have been lucky in my wicking technique/coil height, that led to the coils receiving the right amount of juice from the juice well
Yep, now if I could find a dripper that doesn't leak out of the airholes. Imortalizer was close but my clone broke.
I like TC with my SubTank to go from mouth hits to lung hit clouds just by opening the airflow, no matter how you puff it's close to the same. But I really like the widening of the sweet spot in drippers.
I'm still at .15 ohms No jumping around
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Just not getting a warm vape on any temp. It's mostly cool vape
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Flavor is there tho
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I am going to try an experiment for you
I am wondering if using TC we get something akin to vapers tongue. Where we get used to that temp and then we just dont notice how warm it is. I too have sort of felt that the coils dont seem to be as hot as they were before.
SO I have moved form 475F to 572F. GOing to try and keep vaping it there for a while and see if I just stop noticing how hot it is.
I am wondering if using TC we get something akin to vapers tongue. Where we get used to that temp and then we just dont notice how warm it is. I too have sort of felt that the coils dont seem to be as hot as they were before.
SO I have moved form 475F to 572F. GOing to try and keep vaping it there for a while and see if I just stop noticing how hot it is.
I'm at 475 @45j. They drip tip is warm but vape coming off is cool.
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well to be honest I have been doing TC for about 2 weeks now. took at least a week to get coils to work right for me.
So once I got it right, I found 400-425f is right where the temp and flavor seemed to be the same to me as it was on a kanger subtank .5 occ stock coil at say 18 watts. so i started moving up to see if I liked it better warmer. I was at 450 for a few days then 475, the 480. ANd I too dont really notice now that 475ish feels any different then my kanger stock coils felt. So is there something going on or is I am just used to warmer vape temps now and don't notice.
So once I got it right, I found 400-425f is right where the temp and flavor seemed to be the same to me as it was on a kanger subtank .5 occ stock coil at say 18 watts. so i started moving up to see if I liked it better warmer. I was at 450 for a few days then 475, the 480. ANd I too dont really notice now that 475ish feels any different then my kanger stock coils felt. So is there something going on or is I am just used to warmer vape temps now and don't notice.
ok
vaped at least a mil or more at 572 and its already seeming to be not as hot as it was when I started. set it back to 475F and its cooler then 572 and just like i remembered it from what an hour ago.
So I think there is a phenomenon that I shall term- hmm better make this good - how often do you get to invent a whole new word or phrase....
TORCH MOUTH
wait maybe DRAGONS BREATH
there we go that sounds cool
we get used to the higher temps and stop noticing that they are actually hotter then what we are used to, and then it feels cool.
here is my suggestion
go back to your pre- tc setup. use it for a few hours. then pick up your TC setup set it to 500F and see if you notice a difference.
vaped at least a mil or more at 572 and its already seeming to be not as hot as it was when I started. set it back to 475F and its cooler then 572 and just like i remembered it from what an hour ago.
So I think there is a phenomenon that I shall term- hmm better make this good - how often do you get to invent a whole new word or phrase....
TORCH MOUTH
wait maybe DRAGONS BREATH
there we go that sounds cool
we get used to the higher temps and stop noticing that they are actually hotter then what we are used to, and then it feels cool.
here is my suggestion
go back to your pre- tc setup. use it for a few hours. then pick up your TC setup set it to 500F and see if you notice a difference.
Cool will do.
I will use this for a lil while
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I will use this for a lil while
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I need about 1-4ml to break in a flavor on a SubTank and new wick (the flavor I use in that is a powerful mint/menthol). I don't like warm but I do notice flavor "goes away". Sometimes shaking helps, sometimes adjusting temperature.
I can't say when a coil goes bad. My Ni went "bad" when my Ti showed up. I had a crusty Ti coil but it didn't seem bad before I decided to try something a little different.
That crusty coil was a pain to clean. I had plenty of use (weeks) out of it and it would probably be easier to just change it figuring it costs 11¢ a coil for my present Ω. It was more the wick but the flavor did get off, and it was noticeably gunky.
I can't say when a coil goes bad. My Ni went "bad" when my Ti showed up. I had a crusty Ti coil but it didn't seem bad before I decided to try something a little different.
That crusty coil was a pain to clean. I had plenty of use (weeks) out of it and it would probably be easier to just change it figuring it costs 11¢ a coil for my present Ω. It was more the wick but the flavor did get off, and it was noticeably gunky.
I vape on my .5 sub tank mini. Noticed flavor was more present than in my nickel Atlantis 2. It was vice versa when I started using nickel
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Flavor was great. Vapor was more than what I have now
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Any advice for someone that tried (and burnt) 2 tank coils then gave up for a little while and just used Kanthal?
I have some 28ga ni200 wire now and will put a build on my derringer as soon as I get a chance (after 3 batches get mixed so.... 3 weeks?) and I'm hoping to beat the learning curve with the cheap wire in a RDA instead of the prebuilt coils.
Love the D2 though, even in crappy ol' wattage mode. Vape shop employees look at you like "oh, that's cute". You take a rip, then they like "damn, will someone prop the door open?".
@KeyserSoze I would start with getting something that has a prebuilt Ni200 coil like a subtank or maganus or atlantis etc. Use that for a few days and make sure you are comfortable with TC. When I started my subtank Ni200 coils were all junk and it was doing things wrong and I had no idea. I went into the local Vape shop @maddcatt vapors and they sold me a Ni200 coil for my maganus and walked me through setting it up on my device. I knew how to do it and all, but after using that coil I realized that every coil i tried to build and 4 Ni200 Kanger coils were all working wrong. I could vape this coil at 300F all the way to 572F and get a good taste and feel the difference in temp and not feel like it was ever burn or too hot, and hold the fire button down for 10 seconds and not get a NO JUICE message
Once you have the feel of how a stock coil performs in TC, then start making your own. DO something simple like a 26 gauge 3mm 5/6 wrap Ti coil on something like a subtank or whatever you have that you like with single coils.
Make sure all your contact points are snug and making good contact. anything that may let the resistance vary in the slightest can mess you up big time. For my subtanks I have to practically overtighten everything for them to work properly in TC.
@Emberwilde mentioned that tanks like the kanger subtank and lemo 2 do not seem to work very well for all in TC because of the way the negative post connects to the 510.
Others have stated that they have better luck with devices that use adjustable 510 pins versus spring 510 connectors like the D2.
I have no clue exactly what is going on for some people with TC. I had MASSIVE issues for an entire week or more when I started TC a little over 2 weeks ago. The stock coil in the maganus opened my eyes up to what TC is exactly and then I went from there. I currently have built 3 different Ti coils like I described above on my subtank and they worked perfectly, one is still in there now and rocking on my IPV 3Li
I just finished my second attempt at making a parallel dual vertical coil Ti build in a Maganus. First attempt was a complete fail, second attempt is working sort of, but has a funky taste. not sure if I burned some cotton, my cotton tastes funny or what. trying to suck down a tank to see if it goes away. May rebuild it with rayon since that is what is in my subtank build.
To me using a TC coils should be the same as a kanthal coil. The only main difference is you can set the temp. I found that on a stock .15 Ni200 coil set at 40-50J and 400-425f tasted and felt to be the same temp as a .5 kanger stock kanthal coil at 18-20 watts. But I didnt figure that out until I used the stock coil in the maganus.
If you put a stock Ni200 coil and can not vape it at 550+ and just go wow I can taste the flavor but thats a bit to hot for my taste or who knows maybe you like it that hot. Then there is an issue with the coil or tank. CLean the coil connections and all connections. make sure everything is assembled tightly, let everything cool down and when you lock resistance make sure it is reading it 100% correctly. Dont lock a .15 in at .18 or .13. Play around and see if you can get it to read at .15.
Once you have the feel of how a stock coil performs in TC, then start making your own. DO something simple like a 26 gauge 3mm 5/6 wrap Ti coil on something like a subtank or whatever you have that you like with single coils.
Make sure all your contact points are snug and making good contact. anything that may let the resistance vary in the slightest can mess you up big time. For my subtanks I have to practically overtighten everything for them to work properly in TC.
@Emberwilde mentioned that tanks like the kanger subtank and lemo 2 do not seem to work very well for all in TC because of the way the negative post connects to the 510.
Others have stated that they have better luck with devices that use adjustable 510 pins versus spring 510 connectors like the D2.
I have no clue exactly what is going on for some people with TC. I had MASSIVE issues for an entire week or more when I started TC a little over 2 weeks ago. The stock coil in the maganus opened my eyes up to what TC is exactly and then I went from there. I currently have built 3 different Ti coils like I described above on my subtank and they worked perfectly, one is still in there now and rocking on my IPV 3Li
I just finished my second attempt at making a parallel dual vertical coil Ti build in a Maganus. First attempt was a complete fail, second attempt is working sort of, but has a funky taste. not sure if I burned some cotton, my cotton tastes funny or what. trying to suck down a tank to see if it goes away. May rebuild it with rayon since that is what is in my subtank build.
To me using a TC coils should be the same as a kanthal coil. The only main difference is you can set the temp. I found that on a stock .15 Ni200 coil set at 40-50J and 400-425f tasted and felt to be the same temp as a .5 kanger stock kanthal coil at 18-20 watts. But I didnt figure that out until I used the stock coil in the maganus.
If you put a stock Ni200 coil and can not vape it at 550+ and just go wow I can taste the flavor but thats a bit to hot for my taste or who knows maybe you like it that hot. Then there is an issue with the coil or tank. CLean the coil connections and all connections. make sure everything is assembled tightly, let everything cool down and when you lock resistance make sure it is reading it 100% correctly. Dont lock a .15 in at .18 or .13. Play around and see if you can get it to read at .15.
If you want dual, titanium. It's hard enough to get resistance with a single Ni. My 26ga Ni was 6.25"=.15Ω (a dual of that would get you .05Ω so I think that is possible just pushing it). Spaced coil, large diameter, fairly loose cotton.
It should be easy in a RDA.
That's a big help. Thanks a lot for taking the time to explain all of that. I have only tried prefab super tank ni200 coils so far. The first one got locked in WAY off (0.25 maybe instead of 0.15). The second one was closer but I didn't realize it had to be dead on like that. I assumed there would be a little variance from one coil to the next and maybe 0.17 would be ok. Nope. Apparently not. The second one vaped at least but it just didn't taste right.
AmandaD mentioned locking it in AFTER filling with juice. That's another thing I didn't do.
Thanks for the tips, especially the last sentence! I knew with ni200 it was single coil only. The guy that's helping me locally said he does 28ga 22 wraps in his derringer. Blew my mind. I'm up for the challenge though.
And to reiterate, contact coils will not work with ni200 because it doesn't form the insulation like kanthal does, correct? His coil looked like it was contact, that's why I ask.
Thanks again everyone.
Maverik_X
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your supposed to use spaced coils with nickel it makes the temp limiting more accurate. contact coils would most likely fire in temp control but wouldn't be very accurate.
I'm not sure why. I think it shorts, or it starts out shorted, then it unshorts, the mod sees the change and thinks dry coil. Resistance fluctuation from anything other than heat is bad.
I just know I had nothing but problems trying contact, spreading them out made it instantly better.
the initial resistance is important. i find a variance of .006 to be acceptable and works.for me. but if my math is correct a variance of .02 is like 80 degrees or so off so thats unacceptable. Checking with a ohm meter helps alot there. I have 2 devices and no ohm meter so i like to compare on the 2 devices to see.
what is more important is the devices ability to read the resistance as it heats up accurately. things like minor hot spots or say the connection from the negative lead to the 510 not being 100% connected, screw up TC ore t hen anything
let me give my real life example
I built a ti coil in my subtank deck
put it on my D2 it read at .101. it should have read at .220 ish
put it on my 3Li it read at .17 something
the i tightehend the deck to the base like 1/64th of a turn put it back on the 3Li and it read at .224
checked it on the D2 and it read .23 something
So i tried it on the D2 and instantly it read dry coil after firing for 2 seconds. you would have though.23 was close enough, and it might be when everything else is fine, i am not sure
i let it cool for a few mins put it on the 3Li resistance read at say .225 ish and it worked perfectly
then let it all cool put it on the d2 and it finally read at .223 ad it worked perfectly
i only changed the connection between the deck and base and technically the base and the mod. I didnt adjust the coil,wick or screws holding the coil. so my issues seem to all revolve around the connection between the deck and the 510.
Every mod and every RDA/RTA/tank is a little different. I have read RTAs like the goblin,chtuluth and billows v2 are built in a way that helps eliminate this issue I am having. I have also read devices with adjustable 510 connections help as well.
so when trying to lock resistance if you feel its not reading it 100% accurately, play around a bit with how tight the connections are and see if your readings change
what is more important is the devices ability to read the resistance as it heats up accurately. things like minor hot spots or say the connection from the negative lead to the 510 not being 100% connected, screw up TC ore t hen anything
let me give my real life example
I built a ti coil in my subtank deck
put it on my D2 it read at .101. it should have read at .220 ish
put it on my 3Li it read at .17 something
the i tightehend the deck to the base like 1/64th of a turn put it back on the 3Li and it read at .224
checked it on the D2 and it read .23 something
So i tried it on the D2 and instantly it read dry coil after firing for 2 seconds. you would have though.23 was close enough, and it might be when everything else is fine, i am not sure
i let it cool for a few mins put it on the 3Li resistance read at say .225 ish and it worked perfectly
then let it all cool put it on the d2 and it finally read at .223 ad it worked perfectly
i only changed the connection between the deck and base and technically the base and the mod. I didnt adjust the coil,wick or screws holding the coil. so my issues seem to all revolve around the connection between the deck and the 510.
Every mod and every RDA/RTA/tank is a little different. I have read RTAs like the goblin,chtuluth and billows v2 are built in a way that helps eliminate this issue I am having. I have also read devices with adjustable 510 connections help as well.
so when trying to lock resistance if you feel its not reading it 100% accurately, play around a bit with how tight the connections are and see if your readings change
I agree 120%%%%%. I have had similar issues and once I got a good solid process down, my vape quality has improved 10 fold. Thanks Matt for the awesome explanation on a common problem that many TC vapers face...
in the real world both my D2 annd 3Li have 3 digit readouts when you LOCK resistance but not on the main displayIn what world are you getting that third digit readout on the D2?