Problems with the SMOK Tf-RTA d2

[TLSmoak]

Hey guys I started using this about a week ago and I can't seem to get any flavor out of it.
I've washed the tank, wicked and re-wicked , and vapes at different wattages and nothing!
I've used juices with the strongest flavors and it drains them all with pretty much No taste or the faintest at best.
The tank is also leaking quite a bit where I feel like I have to keep the juice flow closed!
This rta is getting glowing reviews on "great flavor!"
So i can't figure out what I'm doing wrong and no one else seems to have this problem. Please help!
P.s : I'm an RDA lover and just wanted a tank for my long drives to work and back.

 

[roxynoodle]

Can we see your build, and get details on your coils (diameter, type of wire, power you're running). My g4 deck is a pain but I get good flavor.

 

[advancedvapesupply]

Hey guys I started using this about a week ago and I can't seem to get any flavor out of it.
I've washed the tank, wicked and re-wicked , and vapes at different wattages and nothing!
I've used juices with the strongest flavors and it drains them all with pretty much No taste or the faintest at best.
The tank is also leaking quite a bit where I feel like I have to keep the juice flow closed!
This rta is getting glowing reviews on "great flavor!"
So i can't figure out what I'm doing wrong and no one else seems to have this problem. Please help!
P.s : I'm an RDA lover and just wanted a tank for my long drives to work and back.

I've managed to get pretty good flavor from both the g2 and g4 decks on the tf rta. Nothing truly exceptional, but very good nonetheless. As with any rta, coil placement/layout and wicking take the top two spots for reasons most people don't get good flavor. Like roxy said, if we had more detail on your build specifics etc we could hopefully narrow it down some more.

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[TLSmoak]

Thanks.
I'm currently using the dual Clapton coils it came with.
I did a dry burn before I started using them and pinched them closer together the other day to see if the flavor would improve.
They read at 0.47ohms and gone between 35-60watts on my Smok xcube mini and joytech cuboid . I doubt it'll be better on my rx200 either

 

[TLSmoak]

More pics

 

[advancedvapesupply]

Try adding an air channel to your wicks, as this massively improves wicking speed. Use a tiny tweezer and push, closest to ghe posts on all four wick channels, down into the channel between the wick and the wick ring, leaving a little air gap where the tweezers were. I do this on the tfrta. Just make sure the channels aren't too big or you're going to get some leaking, especially if you're using thin juice

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[sandduner8]

I am on the fence about buying this one . Anyone that owns one what are your thoughts .


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[advancedvapesupply]

I am on the fence about buying this one . Anyone that owns one what are your thoughts .


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For the price it's a capable and well made tank with good flavor. It's nothing mind blowing but it fits nicely in the whole category of large (25mmish) velocity style rtas like this, herakles, griffin 25, etc etc that are everywhere right now

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[advancedvapesupply]

I am on the fence about buying this one . Anyone that owns one what are your thoughts .


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It does have flexibility with the g4 deck, but that thing is a major pain to build on, although it does have very, very good vapor density and flavor. Overall I think it compares very well to the griffin 25, and the herakles rta-2. There are other tanks I prefer more for flavor, but big airy tanks are all the rage right now

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[TLSmoak]

I will try making some airways in the cotton as soon as I rewick tomorrow. I just put some coffee flavor in there and turned up the wattage after cleaning the leaky mess. Now I'm getting a lot of crackling and popping which I didn't have before. Something's cooking
As for juices, all mine are high - max VG.
And I never forget to prep the wick first to avoid dry hits. Also made sure my cotton wasn't too thick .

Try adding an air channel to your wicks, as this massively improves wicking speed. Use a tiny tweezer and push, closest to ghe posts on all four wick channels, down into the channel between the wick and the wick ring, leaving a little air gap where the tweezers were. I do this on the tfrta. Just make sure the channels aren't too big or you're going to get some leaking, especially if you're using thin juice

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[advancedvapesupply]

I will try making some airways in the cotton as soon as I rewick tomorrow. I just put some coffee flavor in there and turned up the wattage after cleaning the leaky mess. Now I'm getting a lot of crackling and popping which I didn't have before. Something's cooking
As for juices, all mine are high - max VG.
And I never forget to prep the wick first to avoid dry hits. Also made sure my cotton wasn't too thick .

Theres a video on our YouTube channel for wicking the griffin for max vg that demonstrates the air channel thing if you want to see what I mean

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[TLSmoak]

I am on the fence about buying this one . Anyone that owns one what are your thoughts .


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I really have nothing to compare it to since it's my first Rta but it
Definitely beats my regular sub tanks and blows thick clouds... If only they had flavor . I hear better reviews about the griffin.

 

[advancedvapesupply]

I really have nothing to compare it to since it's my first Rta but it
Definitely beats my regular sub tanks and blows thick clouds... If only they had flavor . I hear better reviews about the griffin.

Don't give up!

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[TLSmoak]

Theres a video on our YouTube channel for wicking the griffin for max vg that demonstrates the air channel thing if you want to see what I mean

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That would be perfect. I'll see if I can find it . Thanks!

 

[roxynoodle]

Try putting your coils up higher so the tops of the coils are close to the tops of the posts. Make sure they are both even. Could be those coils had machine oil, too, so hopefully it's burned off by now.

As for leaking, be sure the your wick tails fill those slots where they first go in at the top of the deck. If there are gaps, that will allow juice past your wicks and up onto the deck. Then it floods.

 

[TLSmoak]

Try putting your coils up higher so the tops of the coils are close to the tops of the posts. Make sure they are both even. Could be those coils had machine oil, too, so hopefully it's burned off by now.

As for leaking, be sure the your wick tails fill those slots where they first go in at the top of the deck. If there are gaps, that will allow juice past your wicks and up onto the deck. Then it floods.

Oh I imagine whatever machine oil it may have come with is long gone.
I'm realizing maybe I shouldn't have pinched the coils even. I thought my wick were blocking those gaps perfectly but I am going to rewick again. Just saw an instructional on YouTube so it's back to the drawing board. I'll be back with an update. Thanks again !

 

[roxynoodle]

Nothing wrong with pinching them. I tend to use contact coils.

I don't have the g2 deck, but my Griffin25 needs rewicked. I can take pics tomorrow when I redo it.

 

[advancedvapesupply]

Oh I imagine whatever machine oil it may have come with is long gone.
I'm realizing maybe I shouldn't have pinched the coils even. I thought my wick were blocking those gaps perfectly but I am going to rewick again. Just saw an instructional on YouTube so it's back to the drawing board. I'll be back with an update. Thanks again !

I sent you a link, dunno if it went through because I don't see it in my messages..

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[nightshard]

Before you go all nuts trying to fix it, have someone who is used to tanks try it.
Maybe the flavor is fine, just not as good as you're used to from your RDAs.

 

[TLSmoak]

Good point. I've definitely had that in mind the whole time. Unfortunately I don't have any close friends that vape that could try it and give their opinion.
I do find tank flavors bland in general but was really expecting something better than what I get out of my triton tanks and coils

 

[advancedvapesupply]

Good point. I've definitely had that in mind the whole time. Unfortunately I don't have any close friends that vape that could try it and give their opinion.
I do find tank flavors bland in general but was really expecting something better than what I get out of my triton tanks and coils

You should be getting something better than triton performance. Honestly, most of my rtas give me performance very close to rdas. But I wick them and build them specifically to get that effect. There are definitely some rtas that just will never get there, but you should be able to tell a big difference between a subohm tank and your tf-rta

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[TLSmoak]

Theres a video on our YouTube channel for wicking the griffin for max vg that demonstrates the air channel thing if you want to see what I mean

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Well there's an update:
I watched a video from vaportrails last night and was able to pin point a crucial mistake:
Like an idiot, I was soaking the coil and cotton during priming ( because this is how I prime my RDA wicks to avoid burning my fresh cotton) forgetting that this rta has an airflow that is directly under the coils. Changing the way I prime immediately stopped the insane leaking.
Next I followed his method of wicking which was similar to what I had before by with thinner tails placed in the wicking channel so my flavor has also improved!
I can live with this but I'll keep watching.

 

[advancedvapesupply]

Well there's an update:
I watched a video from vaportrails last night and was able to pin point a crucial mistake:
Like an idiot, I was soaking the coil and cotton during priming ( because this is how I prime my RDA wicks to avoid burning my fresh cotton) forgetting that this rta has an airflow that is directly under the coils. Changing the way I prime immediately stopped the insane leaking.
Next I followed his method of wicking which was similar to what I had before by with thinner tails placed in the wicking channel so my flavor has also improved!
I can live with this but I'll keep watching.

Did you give the air channel thing a try from our video?

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[TLSmoak]

Did you give the air channel thing a try from our video?

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I never received an actual link from u so I didn't know there was a specific video you were referring to so I just found randoms on YouTube. can you post the link?

 

[advancedvapesupply]

I never received an actual link from u so I didn't know there was a specific video you were referring to so I just found randoms on YouTube. can you post the link?

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[ThatFrigginBlondeGirl]

I fully suggest using the wick video posted above by Advanced Vape Supply. It saved my Griffin, the decks are similar enough to use this method. The flavor improvement is so wonderful and I have zero leaking using this method as well. Best tutorial videos ever.

 

[saytar]

I have one of these and 2 SMOK RDTA's and 2 Griffin 25's.....................................All give good flavor and none of mine leak.....I have been watching DJSLB?? Daniel's video's and a few others so tried other ways of wicking it....Bottom line once you get your cotton juuusssst right size for your coil, massage it to fluff then trim one end at an angle for easier insertion (Note: I use the cotton squares just around .375 and cut the thickness in half for 3 mm) , then roll the cotton to a round tube shape insert and grabbing both ends rolling the longer end a bit more and tugging gently on the end you inserted pull your cotton through and center. the next two steps require a bit of practice (took me 3 try's..so not bad). Cut your cotton at angle that follows your round deck............."Drum Roll Please" this last step is the one that will get you maximum flavor (assuming your using good cotton), take a dental pick or similar and "fluff" run it through each end of your cotton tails until fluffy (it look shaggy and unkempt..don't worry), remove or clip carefully any loose pieces and then using the same very thin pick start stuffing your cotton into juice slots or on the RDTA versions into the juice holes the little hole thing next to the post it good along with this method........WARNING: Don't let ANY cotton set directly above your air flow holes.....get it all in the channels or holes.practice...practice...practice. Once learned you'll rarely have ANY issue. IF you've fluffed and packed properly with a very thin sharp instrument don't worry about some excessive cotton sticking down into your juice channels as using the thin instrument keeps you from packing so tight as to cutoff proper wicking.

If you get this right you will have no leaks and the flavor is massively improved on any of these 3 type tanks.......Personally between the SMOK RTA G2, the SMOK RDTA S2, and the Griffin 25 the SMOK RDTA has the most flavor, the Griffin 25 runs a close second and the SMOK RTA is third.......

All of them give acceptable flavor this way, but I'm getting hooked on the RDTA and Griffin pretty much. But I really like the RTA G2 build deck and tank too so I still swap it out frequently too. All three are running dual SS 316 3mm Spaced Claptons (thanks Advanced Vapes!) at around .27 ohm....at 45-55 watts and 400 deg I can get great taste and massive clouds. These are mounted on my Cuboid's and if I keep air moving by inhaling until right before I quit firing I rarely hit 370 deg and very rarely ever hit temp control warning. Short small puffs not even going get close to cutoff......

The hardest to learn to wick is the RDTA because ANY error in your wicking packing or adjust if not right will either make a BIG puddle on your desk or hit dry so much your mouth will shrivel .............I tested my RDTA for several days (heard about the Boreas peeing badly...same type deck setup) with this type wicking by toking it a time or two a day and left the juice control open and functional for over a week.....not a drop even seeped out. I've run this tank at 60 watts hard no dry hits (it would go a bit higher), but the vape gets too damn hot for my tender mouth.
I mix my own and I'm running right now a 77% VG and 23% PG ratio......soon I am going with different nicotine base and going to up it to 80-82% VG, this will also be less prone to leakage being thicker....but I will likey do a bit more fluffing and a tad lighter packing for that.

Hope that helps............

 

[TLSmoak]

I have one of these and 2 SMOK RDTA's and 2 Griffin 25's.....................................All give good flavor and none of mine leak.....I have been watching DJSLB?? Daniel's video's and a few others so tried other ways of wicking it....Bottom line once you get your cotton juuusssst right size for your coil, massage it to fluff then trim one end at an angle for easier insertion (Note: I use the cotton squares just around .375 and cut the thickness in half for 3 mm) , then roll the cotton to a round tube shape insert and grabbing both ends rolling the longer end a bit more and tugging gently on the end you inserted pull your cotton through and center. the next two steps require a bit of practice (took me 3 try's..so not bad). Cut your cotton at angle that follows your round deck............."Drum Roll Please" this last step is the one that will get you maximum flavor (assuming your using good cotton), take a dental pick or similar and "fluff" run it through each end of your cotton tails until fluffy (it look shaggy and unkempt..don't worry), remove or clip carefully any loose pieces and then using the same very thin pick start stuffing your cotton into juice slots or on the RDTA versions into the juice holes the little hole thing next to the post it good along with this method........WARNING: Don't let ANY cotton set directly above your air flow holes.....get it all in the channels or holes.practice...practice...practice. Once learned you'll rarely have ANY issue. IF you've fluffed and packed properly with a very thin sharp instrument don't worry about some excessive cotton sticking down into your juice channels as using the thin instrument keeps you from packing so tight as to cutoff proper wicking.

If you get this right you will have no leaks and the flavor is massively improved on any of these 3 type tanks.......Personally between the SMOK RTA G2, the SMOK RDTA S2, and the Griffin 25 the SMOK RDTA has the most flavor, the Griffin 25 runs a close second and the SMOK RTA is third.......

All of them give acceptable flavor this way, but I'm getting hooked on the RDTA and Griffin pretty much. But I really like the RTA G2 build deck and tank too so I still swap it out frequently too. All three are running dual SS 316 3mm Spaced Claptons (thanks Advanced Vapes!) at around .27 ohm....at 45-55 watts and 400 deg I can get great taste and massive clouds. These are mounted on my Cuboid's and if I keep air moving by inhaling until right before I quit firing I rarely hit 370 deg and very rarely ever hit temp control warning. Short small puffs not even going get close to cutoff......

The hardest to learn to wick is the RDTA because ANY error in your wicking packing or adjust if not right will either make a BIG puddle on your desk or hit dry so much your mouth will shrivel .............I tested my RDTA for several days (heard about the Boreas peeing badly...same type deck setup) with this type wicking by toking it a time or two a day and left the juice control open and functional for over a week.....not a drop even seeped out. I've run this tank at 60 watts hard no dry hits (it would go a bit higher), but the vape gets too damn hot for my tender mouth.
I mix my own and I'm running right now a 77% VG and 23% PG ratio......soon I am going with different nicotine base and going to up it to 80-82% VG, this will also be less prone to leakage being thicker....but I will likey do a bit more fluffing and a tad lighter packing for that.

Hope that helps............

You're awesome for this.
I'll rewick using this guide. Thanks!!!

 

[wowowee]

Hi new here. Just got the G4 and tried it at 40 watts but the whole thing gets so hot and burns my lips. Anything below 40 barely fires it. I have an evic vt. It reads at 40 watts 2.44v .15ohm. What am I doing wrong? Thanks in advance.

 

[TLSmoak]

Hi new here. Just got the G4 and tried it at 40 watts but the whole thing gets so hot and burns my lips. Anything below 40 barely fires it. I have an evic vt. It reads at 40 watts 2.44v .15ohm. What am I doing wrong? Thanks in advance.

Hi,
Those ohms are pretty low. Isn't that a single 18650 mod? I'm wondering if the battery is being stressed by pushing out that low a build. Do you have another mod you can test it on? One that takes at least dual 18650s ?
I've never had a hot atomizer issue with this rta . Especially since the coils are at the bottom. Can you post a pic of your build?

 

[wowowee]

Hi,
Those ohms are pretty low. Isn't that a single 18650 mod? I'm wondering if the battery is being stressed by pushing out that low a build. Do you have another mod you can test it on? One that takes at least dual 18650s ?
I've never had a hot atomizer issue with this rta . Especially since the coils are at the bottom. Can you post a pic of your build?

Thanks for the reply, here are some pics. The wires came pre-built so just had to wick it. Below are the specs of my Evic VT mod.

Note:
For Kanthal wire with resistance range 0.25-1.0 ohm, the maximum output wattage on screen is 60W.
For Kanthal Wire with resistance range 0.15-0.24 ohm, the actual maximum output wattage will be limited to be 50-55W to ensure safer operation.


Features and Specs:

• Dimensions: 3-1/4"L x 1-7/8"W x 1"D (eVic-VT battery)
• Capacity: Built in 5000mAh battery
• 510 threaded
• Output mode: VT-Ti/VT-Ni/VW Mode
• Temperature Range: 100-315 Celsius /200-600 Fahrenheit
• Operating Wattage: 1 to 60 Watts
• Output Voltage: 0.5V-8.0V
• Resistance Range: 0.05-1.0ohm for VT mode
• Resistance Range: 0.15-3.5ohm for VW mode
• Charged via USB
• 4ml Capacity
• 510 drip tip compatible

 

[saytar]

Hi,
Those ohms are pretty low. Isn't that a single 18650 mod? I'm wondering if the battery is being stressed by pushing out that low a build. Do you have another mod you can test it on? One that takes at least dual 18650s ?
Can you post a pic of your build?

I've only got the G2 version, but I can tell you that on my Sigelei 75 watt (single battery) I'm running it at 35 watts......I can push it up to 45, but that zaps the battery pretty fast and when the battery gets down around 25% it will sag out and barely fire.......now using the lower ohm G4 is pushing it on a single battery mod......the lower ohms is going to pull way more current than the G2, more current .... more heat and with two more coils...wayy more heated hot wire (mine are dual SS at .28 ohms), that and the stock coils are nichrome (a fast heating resistance wire). The SS ramps up a bit slower than nichrome so the heat build up is not as quick, I'd change out those nichrome coils for some good SS or Kanthal and maybe bring the resistance up a bit (maybe only build with 2 coils not all 4, just make sure it's wicked well to prevent flooding the deck nothing says just because you CAN use 4 coils doesn't mean you have to)....say .28 to .5 ohms....That's one reason I didn't go for the G4........builds a bit low and dual coils get hot enough for me, you want to run super low builds for massive clouds I recommend a good side straight to the coil RDTA or such.....like the Boreas, Supreme, or SMOK RDTA S2 deck, etc and keep your ohms .25 or there abouts (the direct to coil RDTA's seem to also give better flavor in my experience)......
You could always if necessary purchase a replacement G2 deck for the tank...they ARE interchangeable.......

That said.......on my dual Cuboids I can run the G2 at 40 watts and get plenty of flavor and vapor....ramps a bit slower to be sure. My experience with the RTA G series is that they DO seem to get hot quickly (especially if you draw long and hard and the tank is not full of juice to absorb some of the heat) and are slow to cool off (a side from the fact that the 510 pin is excessively long and causes issues with the Cuboids 510 connectors). Now on the SMOK RDTA S series decks (bottom coils-air direct to the coils) this issue is non existent.......they stay relatively cool at 45-65 watts even with long draws due to the side air flow.........

My suggestion on the single battery mod is to not run it over 35 watts, this WILL cause it to take a bit more time to ramp up, but the slight delay is not that bad (my Sigelei 75 works fine at 35 watts with the G2) AND make sure it is wicked properly for good juice flow.....if the juice is not wicking fast enough it WILL tend heat up faster as the heat all has to dissipate thru the tank and up the chimmey instead of being dissipated some thru vapor production.................also keep the tank pretty full, the juice will help cool it down somewhat....

 

[wowowee]

I've only got the G2 version, but I can tell you that on my Sigelei 75 watt (single battery) I'm running it at 35 watts......I can push it up to 45, but that zaps the battery pretty fast and when the battery gets down around 25% it will sag out and barely fire.......(maybe only build with 2 coils not all 4, just make sure it's wicked well to prevent flooding the deck nothing says just because you CAN use 4 coils doesn't mean you have to)....say .28 to .5 ohms....QUOTE]

Thanks saytar, very informative! I went ahead and removed the other 2 coils and it is perfect. I guess my mod could not handle the G4. So I now have a quad deck with 2 coils LOL. Great clouds and flavor, that's with .29ohm 30watts 2.94v

Thanks again....

 

[TLSmoak]

Saytar said exactly what I was trying to but much better.
And sorry I forgot those RTAs come with prebuilt coils. In a nutshell, that build is putting a lot of stress on a single 18650 battery. You might get a few good puffs when your battery is fully charged, but when the amperage starts dropping, it's barely making the cut.
If you don't have a dual 18650 mod, maybe you could cut that build down to 2 coils until you can test it on a 2 battery mod.
I run my G2 on a cuboid at up to 60w and it's great

 

[saytar]

Welcome, glad your enjoying the tank now, that's the idea...........OK now get a nice 2 or 3 cell 200 watt mod and clouds away....

No not really, the build area in the G4 is way too small in my opinion for 4 low, low ohm coils and the device does not have enough metal in it to heat sink the massive amount of heat that four coils put out........Even the G2 can get pretty damn hot with 2 Claptons I'm running, especially if you get to chain vaping any at all.....

Like I said the SMOK RDTA (I have 2) and my Boreas with the exact same type and ohm of coils can go to 60 or 70 watts and not get half as hot as the SMOK RTA. Its a good mod most likely if your using just plain coils and .3 to .6 ohm builds......

But be very careful with the extra way too long 510 pin on that RTA.......its waaayyyy longer than most (even longer than the SMOK RDTA, the threads are the same but the pin is just longer from the tank body to the start of the threads) and it cause's issues with my Cuboids...I went to Kepler heat sinks on the mod to protect the Cuboid pin from getting shoved too far into the mod and shorting or wearing it out......don't really have an issue with most other tanks (I still leave the heat sinks on......wear them out and not the 510 in the mod). It's not real pretty but they work for me really well.....and lets me use the SMOK RTA without issue....

 

[saytar]

Saytar said exactly what I was trying to but much better.
And sorry I forgot those RTAs come with prebuilt coils. In a nutshell, that build is putting a lot of stress on a single 18650 battery. You might get a few good puffs when your battery is fully charged, but when the amperage starts dropping, it's barely making the cut.
If you don't have a dual 18650 mod, maybe you could cut that build down to 2 coils until you can test it on a 2 battery mod.
I run my G2 on a cuboid at up to 60w and it's great

If your using a Cuboid (or a RX200-200S) with that tank, check the length of the 510 pin against your other tanks........you'll find it is way, way longer than most and it almost ruined the 510 on one of my Cuboids....be careful, I suggest either use an adjustable pin heat sink adjusted for your Cuboid or get yourself a 2-3 mm thick washer of some kind and use it between your mod and tank......................The SMOK TF-4 has caused issues with the Cuboids and I'm betting (I don't have a TF4 to measure) that both have really extra long 510 pins........

I even had some issue's with my RX200S mods and the SMOK RTA due to the length of the pin shaft. I now won't run the tank on either of them without the heat sinks...............with the heat sinks or a washer their not a problem and otherwise is not a bad tank at all......they just screwed the pooch on that 510 for them......now on my Sigelei mod there is absolutely no issue with the longer pin as the spring loaded connector in it has a tremendous amount of travel and can handle it....

 

[TLSmoak]

If your using a Cuboid (or a RX200-200S) with that tank, check the length of the 510 pin against your other tanks........you'll find it is way, way longer than most and it almost ruined the 510 on one of my Cuboids....be careful, I suggest either use an adjustable pin heat sink adjusted for your Cuboid or get yourself a 2-3 mm thick washer of some kind and use it between your mod and tank......................The SMOK TF-4 has caused issues with the Cuboids and I'm betting (I don't have a TF4 to measure) that both have really extra long 510 pins........

I even had some issue's with my RX200S mods and the SMOK RTA due to the length of the pin shaft. I now won't run the tank on either of them without the heat sinks...............with the heat sinks or a washer their not a problem and otherwise is not a bad tank at all......they just screwed the pooch on that 510 for them......now on my Sigelei mod there is absolutely no issue with the longer pin as the spring loaded connector in it has a tremendous amount of travel and can handle it....

Yea I noticed.
The Smok Rta is a good tank but I still find the wicking a little tricky to get good flavor. These days I'm using The avocado and limitless RTDAs for my RX200s and cuboid. The limited also has a protruding 510 pin but the flavor on those things is marvelous!

 

[tempa_83]

OK I have the tank too.
Only the g4 deck but this would be irrelevant to smoks major error!!!
Undo the tank , take a good look at the female thread of the juice control. The thread is the actual moveable juice control ring rather than being fixed to the tank so it has play. Some may have very slight play but others are really Wobbly (like mine) best thing I found to do was make sure some cotton blocking the holes (I only use 2 coils in the g4 as I can't be bothered to fiddle around) my second small fix is to use one of my smok rubbers that came with it and cover the gap with it. I also have the tfv4 and no problems there as there is no juice control

 

[DarthVaper101]

I have one of these and 2 SMOK RDTA's and 2 Griffin 25's.....................................All give good flavor and none of mine leak.....I have been watching DJSLB?? Daniel's video's and a few others so tried other ways of wicking it....Bottom line once you get your cotton juuusssst right size for your coil, massage it to fluff then trim one end at an angle for easier insertion (Note: I use the cotton squares just around .375 and cut the thickness in half for 3 mm) , then roll the cotton to a round tube shape insert and grabbing both ends rolling the longer end a bit more and tugging gently on the end you inserted pull your cotton through and center. the next two steps require a bit of practice (took me 3 try's..so not bad). Cut your cotton at angle that follows your round deck............."Drum Roll Please" this last step is the one that will get you maximum flavor (assuming your using good cotton), take a dental pick or similar and "fluff" run it through each end of your cotton tails until fluffy (it look shaggy and unkempt..don't worry), remove or clip carefully any loose pieces and then using the same very thin pick start stuffing your cotton into juice slots or on the RDTA versions into the juice holes the little hole thing next to the post it good along with this method........WARNING: Don't let ANY cotton set directly above your air flow holes.....get it all in the channels or holes.practice...practice...practice. Once learned you'll rarely have ANY issue. IF you've fluffed and packed properly with a very thin sharp instrument don't worry about some excessive cotton sticking down into your juice channels as using the thin instrument keeps you from packing so tight as to cutoff proper wicking.

If you get this right you will have no leaks and the flavor is massively improved on any of these 3 type tanks.......Personally between the SMOK RTA G2, the SMOK RDTA S2, and the Griffin 25 the SMOK RDTA has the most flavor, the Griffin 25 runs a close second and the SMOK RTA is third.......

All of them give acceptable flavor this way, but I'm getting hooked on the RDTA and Griffin pretty much. But I really like the RTA G2 build deck and tank too so I still swap it out frequently too. All three are running dual SS 316 3mm Spaced Claptons (thanks Advanced Vapes!) at around .27 ohm....at 45-55 watts and 400 deg I can get great taste and massive clouds. These are mounted on my Cuboid's and if I keep air moving by inhaling until right before I quit firing I rarely hit 370 deg and very rarely ever hit temp control warning. Short small puffs not even going get close to cutoff......

The hardest to learn to wick is the RDTA because ANY error in your wicking packing or adjust if not right will either make a BIG puddle on your desk or hit dry so much your mouth will shrivel .............I tested my RDTA for several days (heard about the Boreas peeing badly...same type deck setup) with this type wicking by toking it a time or two a day and left the juice control open and functional for over a week.....not a drop even seeped out. I've run this tank at 60 watts hard no dry hits (it would go a bit higher), but the vape gets too damn hot for my tender mouth.
I mix my own and I'm running right now a 77% VG and 23% PG ratio......soon I am going with different nicotine base and going to up it to 80-82% VG, this will also be less prone to leakage being thicker....but I will likey do a bit more fluffing and a tad lighter packing for that.

Hope that helps............

OK I have the tank too.
Only the g4 deck but this would be irrelevant to smoks major error!!!
Undo the tank , take a good look at the female thread of the juice control. The thread is the actual moveable juice control ring rather than being fixed to the tank so it has play. Some may have very slight play but others are really Wobbly (like mine) best thing I found to do was make sure some cotton blocking the holes (I only use 2 coils in the g4 as I can't be bothered to fiddle around) my second small fix is to use one of my smok rubbers that came with it and cover the gap with it. I also have the tfv4 and no problems there as there is no juice control

Just ordered the G-2 to use on my Smok Alien ... gonna be my second tank .... and the only thing I'm worried about is what Ohm level to put it at.
I do not have an Ohm reader, and when you press new Coil on the Alien it doesn't really adjust it perfectly ... the pre installed Coils are going to be easy to adjust because it tells what Ohms the coils are but I also ordered a pack of 10 Claptons off of vaporrange.com and each Clapton is .85 Ohms ...

I know if you have 1 x .85 Ohm Coil it should read .85 Ohms,
But 2 x .85 Ohm Coil should be divided by 2 since there are 2 coils ...
So it would be half of .85 (.422 Ohms) ... am I right ???

Just need help adjusting the Ohms cause I have no reader and this thing is on its way in the mail lol don't want to over do it, may just sub Ohm TF out of it at .15 - .25 Ohms .... help!!!! And don't say "just buy an Ohm reader" unless they're at Wal Mary lol cuz I'm sick of ordering shit off of the internet although they are like 3$ on Amazon ... Sick of Waiting ... help ?? Thanks bro

#VapingOnABudget

 

[saytar]

Just ordered the G-2 to use on my Smok Alien ... gonna be my second tank .... and the only thing I'm worried about is what Ohm level to put it at.
I do not have an Ohm reader, and when you press new Coil on the Alien it doesn't really adjust it perfectly ... the pre installed Coils are going to be easy to adjust because it tells what Ohms the coils are but I also ordered a pack of 10 Claptons off of vaporrange.com and each Clapton is .85 Ohms ...

I know if you have 1 x .85 Ohm Coil it should read .85 Ohms,
But 2 x .85 Ohm Coil should be divided by 2 since there are 2 coils ...
So it would be half of .85 (.422 Ohms) ... am I right ???

Just need help adjusting the Ohms cause I have no reader and this thing is on its way in the mail lol don't want to over do it, may just sub Ohm TF out of it at .15 - .25 Ohms .... help!!!! And don't say "just buy an Ohm reader" unless they're at Wal Mary lol cuz I'm sick of ordering shit off of the internet although they are like 3$ on Amazon ... Sick of Waiting ... help ?? Thanks bro

#VapingOnABudget

If both are identical coils and resistance (most won't be EXACTLY .85) is the same and taking into account some slight resistance in the grub screw tension (don't leave loose and be careful not to over tighten and strip them) with both in parallel your resistance will probably be somewhere between .40 and .46............neither is too far out or too low...........I use SS dual Claptons and mine ohm out between .25 and .28 and they work just fine at 45-70 watts.........yours being a bit higher in resistance, I'd imagine that between 35-45 watts would be a good settings to start with, but with Alien's you may be able to bump that up a bit more due to more mass of wire exposed to the juice.

I bought a few pre-built SS Claptons for examples and then went and bought the 25 ft rolls of pre-made Clapton wire..............just wind your coils using a 3.0mm core ID and same number of turns............mine never vary more than .04 ohms. If you use a 3.5 core ID your resistance will be a bit lower over all, but not really that radical to change much, just means you need slightly more wicking to keep them properly "fed"......
The old expression ........"Don't worry, be happy".......

With proper wicking and coil cleaning (SS does this well) you should get at a minimum of 6-8 months useage on SS coils, mine have gone longer and still look great after cleaning and rewicking......SS takes a bit more abuse when firing to clean them, be cautious on other wires not to over heat them too much (the Aliens are most likely NiChrome wire so don't overly heat them, just several short fires until clean) and most definitely don't even dry fire a Nickle wire......

I order my SS from Advanced Vapes and highly recommend their wire..............I haven't checked lately but I think they were going to start selling Alien wire in bulk.....but don't quote me on that....
Around $22 for 25 ft (will make around 450-500 coils), so very economical....about a $.05 a coil.

 

[DarthVaper101]

If both are identical coils and resistance (most won't be EXACTLY .85) is the same and taking into account some slight resistance in the grub screw tension (don't leave loose and be careful not to over tighten and strip them) with both in parallel your resistance will probably be somewhere between .40 and .46............neither is too far out or too low...........I use SS dual Claptons and mine ohm out between .25 and .28 and they work just fine at 45-70 watts.........yours being a bit higher in resistance, I'd imagine that between 35-45 watts would be a good settings to start with, but with Alien's you may be able to bump that up a bit more due to more mass of wire exposed to the juice.

I bought a few pre-built SS Claptons for examples and then went and bought the 25 ft rolls of pre-made Clapton wire..............just wind your coils using a 3.0mm core ID and same number of turns............mine never vary more than .04 ohms. If you use a 3.5 core ID your resistance will be a bit lower over all, but not really that radical to change much, just means you need slightly more wicking to keep them properly "fed"......
The old expression ........"Don't worry, be happy".......

With proper wicking and coil cleaning (SS does this well) you should get at a minimum of 6-8 months useage on SS coils, mine have gone longer and still look great after cleaning and rewicking......SS takes a bit more abuse when firing to clean them, be cautious on other wires not to over heat them too much (the Aliens are most likely NiChrome wire so don't overly heat them, just several short fires until clean) and most definitely don't even dry fire a Nickle wire......

I order my SS from Advanced Vapes and highly recommend their wire..............I haven't checked lately but I think they were going to start selling Alien wire in bulk.....but don't quote me on that....
Around $22 for 25 ft (will make around 450-500 coils), so very economical....about a $.05 a coil.

Well actually something just came to light for me ... the formula I know is that if you have 1 Clapton Coil and it's a .85 Ohm Coil, and you're doing a duel build (G-2 on the Smok) which is what I will be doing, it will be roughly be running around .85 Ohms? No ?? On the pack I bought it states "Duel Coils equal out to .85"

Here are some pictures ... I got the Clapton

Im aware of how to install them, watched many videos, but the tank I ordered comes
Pre installed, I'll just have to clamp together gently until it burns from the inside out (you know the jist)

So 2 x .85 claptons installed on a dual Coil build ... set my Ohms roughly around .85???

I just don't get it lol ... it says on the package duel are .85 .... ughhh

 

[DarthVaper101]

Well actually something just came to light for me ... the formula I know is that if you have 1 Clapton Coil and it's a .85 Ohm Coil, and you're doing a duel build (G-2 on the Smok) which is what I will be doing, it will be roughly be running around .85 Ohms? No ?? On the pack I bought it states "Duel Coils equal out to .85"

Here are some pictures ... I got the Clapton

Im aware of how to install them, watched many videos, but the tank I ordered comes
Pre installed, I'll just have to clamp together gently until it burns from the inside out (you know the jist)

So 2 x .85 claptons installed on a dual Coil build ... set my Ohms roughly around .85???

I just don't get it lol ... it says on the package duel are .85 .... ughhh

Never mind man I'm just confunsing myself for no reason at this point, and messed up in telling you that each coil is .85 Ohms if he bottle read duel coils equal to about .85 that means that one Coil should be about 1.7 Ohms ...

so basically.....

If you put in two 1.0 ohm coils it will be right about 0.5 ohm.

If you put in two 2.0 ohm coils it will be right about 1.0 ohm.

If you put in two 3.0 ohm coils it will be right about 1.5 ohm.

If you put in two 4.0 ohm coils it will be right about 2.0 ohm.

If you put in two 5.0 ohm coils it will be right about 2.5 ohm.

I'm just confusing myself ...

You just Halve it if it's duel coils ...

 

[saytar]

Never mind man I'm just confunsing myself for no reason at this point ... basically

If you put in two 1.0 ohm coils it will be right about 0.5 ohm.

If you put in two 2.0 ohm coils it will be right about 1.0 ohm.

If you put in two 3.0 ohm coils it will be right about 1.5 ohm.

If you put in two 4.0 ohm coils it will be right about 2.0 ohm.

If you put in two 5.0 ohm coils it will be right about 2.5 ohm.

I'm just confusing myself ...

You just Halve it if it's duel coils ...

Yep the ohms is PER COIL...Parallel coils cut ohm in half.......coils in series add together....yours are parallel........and from the looks of the ad those are just plain old Kanthal coils.......not worth $ 3 a piece for sure............so they won't last as long as SS or NiChrome ones, but with proper care and cleaning at least a month or so.......

My SS coils in my Boreas (my everyday vape) are the same ones I installed last May 2015 when I first got it.......the ones in my SMOK RTA G2 & my Griffin 25 have been in since January 2015...................same type, same Claptons......I clean & change the cotton in the 2 RTA's about every 2-3 weeks, the Boreas is so damned efficient I have gone 2 months between cleaning 7 cotton changes (don't recommend that..I got lazy), 3-4 weeks is average on it. I run them all in TC, but the SS works just as good in wattage mode as does Kanthanl, but it is not prone to rusting so it last waaay longer, the resistance is a bit lower on SS the Claptons run about .5 ohms per coil..........so its really a toss up on Kanthal and SS for watt mode, but most mod's will TC SS but not Kanthnal.......

OH, by the way...on Claptons I usually DON'T pinch the coils like you do do on single wire coils, I get better results if the coils are spread just a tiny bit.....seems to give a more even heating.

Personally to me the Kanthnal has a metallic twang to it.........the SS is real neutral and doesn't affect the flavor as much. That and the life cycle are why I prefer them.....but Kanthnal works just fine too........whatever floats your boat....I think $8 bucks or so will get you 10 pre-made SS Claptons from Advanced Vapes, about $.40-$.50 cents a piece, off Ebay I think the shipping is free.

Which makes me think..........ummmm need to shoot over to ebay and see if they have the Aliens in SS or TI yet......been waiting to try some in the Boreas.........

NOTE: If its a SMOK tank pre-installed Those Clapton coils are usually NiChrome wire, NOT Kanthal......

 

[DarthVaper101]

Yep the ohms is PER COIL...Parallel coils cut ohm in half.......coils in series add together....yours are parallel........and from the looks of the ad those are just plain old Kanthal coils.......not worth $ 3 a piece for sure............so they won't last as long as SS or NiChrome ones, but with proper care and cleaning at least a month or so.......

My SS coils in my Boreas (my everyday vape) are the same ones I installed last May 2015 when I first got it.......the ones in my SMOK RTA G2 & my Griffin 25 have been in since January 2015...................same type, same Claptons......I clean & change the cotton in the 2 RTA's about every 2-3 weeks, the Boreas is so damned efficient I have gone 2 months between cleaning 7 cotton changes (don't recommend that..I got lazy), 3-4 weeks is average on it. I run them all in TC, but the SS works just as good in wattage mode as does Kanthanl, but it is not prone to rusting so it last waaay longer, the resistance is a bit lower on SS the Claptons run about .5 ohms per coil..........so its really a toss up on Kanthal and SS for watt mode, but most mod's will TC SS but not Kanthnal.......

Personally to me the Kanthnal has a metallic twang to it.........the SS is real neutral and doesn't affect the flavor as much. That and the life cycle are why I prefer them.....but Kanthnal works just fine too........whatever floats your boat....I think $8 bucks or so will get you 10 pre-made SS Claptons from Advanced Vapes, about $.40-$.50 cents a piece, off Ebay I think the shipping is free.

Which makes me think..........ummmm need to shoot over to ebay and see if they have the Aliens in SS yet......been waiting to try some in the Boreas....

No bro that's a pack of 10 coils for $4 ... not just one lol .... but I got the Clapton ... not the kanthal 24 or Kanthal 26 or the ss316L's

It's a 10 pack of pre rolled
Clapton coils

 

[DarthVaper101]

Yep the ohms is PER COIL...Parallel coils cut ohm in half.......coils in series add together....yours are parallel........and from the looks of the ad those are just plain old Kanthal coils.......not worth $ 3 a piece for sure............so they won't last as long as SS or NiChrome ones, but with proper care and cleaning at least a month or so.......

My SS coils in my Boreas (my everyday vape) are the same ones I installed last May 2015 when I first got it.......the ones in my SMOK RTA G2 & my Griffin 25 have been in since January 2015...................same type, same Claptons......I clean & change the cotton in the 2 RTA's about every 2-3 weeks, the Boreas is so damned efficient I have gone 2 months between cleaning 7 cotton changes (don't recommend that..I got lazy), 3-4 weeks is average on it. I run them all in TC, but the SS works just as good in wattage mode as does Kanthanl, but it is not prone to rusting so it last waaay longer, the resistance is a bit lower on SS the Claptons run about .5 ohms per coil..........so its really a toss up on Kanthal and SS for watt mode, but most mod's will TC SS but not Kanthnal.......

OH, by the way...on Claptons I usually DON'T pinch the coils like you do do on single wire coils, I get better results if the coils are spread just a tiny bit.....seems to give a more even heating.

Personally to me the Kanthnal has a metallic twang to it.........the SS is real neutral and doesn't affect the flavor as much. That and the life cycle are why I prefer them.....but Kanthnal works just fine too........whatever floats your boat....I think $8 bucks or so will get you 10 pre-made SS Claptons from Advanced Vapes, about $.40-$.50 cents a piece, off Ebay I think the shipping is free.

Which makes me think..........ummmm need to shoot over to ebay and see if they have the Aliens in SS or TI yet......been waiting to try some in the Boreas.........

NOTE: If its a SMOK tank pre-installed Those Clapton coils are usually NiChrome wire, NOT Kanthal......

Oh ya bro hell yeah grab that Smok ... I'm going to grab the Touch Screen Smok mod forgot what it's called ... and after this ... I think it's on to RDA's ... I like my baby T-8 tho