Protank Coil Rebuilds

[sdserio]

Has anyone else tried to rebuild coils for the protank 2? If so what problems have you had/tricks have you used to make it easier.

I've been rebuilding for about 7 months now but always looking to try new things.

 

[MistaKuraudo]

Mmmm... if I remember correctly, Protank 2's use the regular single wick head. Those are some of the easiest heads to rebuild on. As for tips and tricks, try not to use a really thick gauge wire as they tend to deform the rubber on the base and misalign the contact. Getting it back to normal can jack up the coil, so it's easier to just use wire that won't give you any problems.

Other than that, just remember to keep the coil centered, not touching the sides and to keep in mind you're building your coil to fit in a small space. You can thread your wick through, before or after you put in the coil. It doesn't really matter.

Other than that, it's all good. Have fun.

 

[sdserio]

They are the single coil ones. 28g is the biggest I've tried to build with and I can just barely get enough wraps to get it above 1ohm. I need to try to find some 30g again. I loved that one coil I built with it. Unfortunately I went to rewick it and the coil leads came out and it was done.

 

[Monoxide]

I've rebuild the PT3 heads (dual coil) What a pain that was!

 

[sdserio]

I've rebuild the PT3 heads (dual coil) What a pain that was!

I've tried... And failed. Couldn't get the could to heat evenly.

 

[Garemlin]

Took me a few times but now I can do it with my eyes closed.

30g kanthal 8-10 wraps on a 2mm screwdriver
1 piece of Peaches & Creme white yarn

After I wrap my coil I lay it in the grooves of the head with a drill bit or screwdriver. Assemble the bottom and snip the excess. Test the resistance then fire it and use tweezers to compress the coil. Compressing the coil makes it more rigid so it is easier to pull the wick and feed a new one. Feed a piece of P&C yarn through the coil. Depending on the juice ratio I may take one strand of the yarn and lay it on top of the coil as a flavor wick. Prevents flooding with thinner juices. Wet the coil with a few drops of juice. Install the chimney and snip he excess wick leaving about 1-2mm. Don't forget to install the rubber grommet over the chimney. I always do this. LOL Vape away.

 

[Bahas]

I find if you use an allen key that fits in the slots of the head it gives you a good idea on how much you need. Also if you are a stickler for perfect lined up coiling use some painters tape to mark your allen key so you know where to stop.

 

[VaporVino]

I rebuild coils all the time for myself and my customers. I charge them a buck and they seem happy. I use 32 gauge kanthal. I wrap normally 4 times, but I adjust to their preference. I also burn my kanthal first as recommended to help keep the form. I used to use a fly fishing rig to hold my stuff, but really you don't need to. Just do a few and you will get the hang of it. I find just telling my customers to burn off the wick weekly helps them a lot. Some are too lazy and bring them to me to do for them.

 

[Pitbulls4us]

I rebuild my protank heads all the time with 32 guage kanthal wire .. i do 5 wraps and it usually comes out around 2 ohms i wrap it on the smallest drill bit and use organic cotton for the wick .. when the flavor is off in a week or two i pull the cotton out and put new cotton thru the coil and its good to go again
And the smallest drill bit fits perfect in the slots so your coil stays nice an straight while you put the rubber grommet and metal plug back in .. i use finger nail clippers to cut the excess wire off as close as possible , pull out the drill bit feed the cotton thru the coil , put the chimney and rubber piece back on cut the cotton even on both sides and its done an ready to use , its pretty easy and only takes a few minutes

 

[sdserio]

I rewicked mine today. No need for a rebuild yet. I have found over the past few months that sometimes your wick is perfect others its not. Anyone have tips on choosing the right amount of cotton?

 

[Calcilculcelcol]

i have protank 3 and i always build with singgle coil i was tried make it dual coil and OMG its really hard i was sweat to build it . anyway its protank 2 coil will be fit on protank 3 ?

 

[philfish8]

I rebuild coils all the time for myself and my customers. I charge them a buck and they seem happy. I use 32 gauge kanthal. I wrap normally 4 times, but I adjust to their preference. I also burn my kanthal first as recommended to help keep the form. I used to use a fly fishing rig to hold my stuff, but really you don't need to. Just do a few and you will get the hang of it. I find just telling my customers to burn off the wick weekly helps them a lot. Some are too lazy and bring them to me to do for them.

Has anyone used a fly tying vice to make coils?

 

[Bahas]

i have protank 3 and i always build with singgle coil i was tried make it dual coil and OMG its really hard i was sweat to build it . anyway its protank 2 coil will be fit on protank 3 ?

From what I have seen they all look like they will fit in the other devices but I don't have a protank 3 to test it out.

 

[sdserio]

i have protank 3 and i always build with singgle coil i was tried make it dual coil and OMG its really hard i was sweat to build it . anyway its protank 2 coil will be fit on protank 3 ?

No it won't. The rubber cap looking thing sits too low on the pt2 head so it doesn't seal off the airflow tube on the pt3 and just leaks into the airflow tube.

 

[sdserio]

From what I have seen they all look like they will fit in the other devices but I don't have a protank 3 to test it out.

The coil is compatible with the base but not the tank section. That's why you can use an aerotank base with a pt2 tank.

 

[mike_getz]

i have a protank that i run #400 SS mesh rolled solid (no straw effect) with a 6 wrap 28g micro on it - comes out at exactly 1Ω ... great flavor for bright, fruity juices ... not so great with the bakery flavors ...

 

[sdserio]

i have a protank that i run #400 SS mesh rolled solid (no straw effect) with a 6 wrap 28g micro on it - comes out at exactly 1Ω ... great flavor for bright, fruity juices ... not so great with the bakery flavors ...

Good to know. I wanted to try it but all I vape is bakery type flavors.

 

[VaporVino]

i have a protank that i run #400 SS mesh rolled solid (no straw effect) with a 6 wrap 28g micro on it - comes out at exactly 1Ω ... great flavor for bright, fruity juices ... not so great with the bakery flavors ...

I'd like to see a pic of that if you have it handy, sounds interesting.

 

[Jay9055]

This is how I learned to rebuild these coils is:

 

[Toombstoned]

10 wraps of 28 gauge kanthal on a 1.6 mm drill bit, comes out 1.2-1.3 ohms. It is a tight fit tho.

 

[USMC]

I do the same as Garemlin, but I use organic cotton balls as the wicking material. I use a 5/64 drill bit as it allows me to place it in the channel nice and snug to position the leads.

 

[Slots]

Looks like your getting a lot of good advice, so I will just add one thing.
You will find the little rubber "Coil Insulator" will need replacing off and on.
It would be a good idea to pick up a pkg (10 in a pack) to have on hand.
Sometimes they rip, or if they get repeated burn spots from the wires, they need to be replaced.
They are about the only thing that will keep you from using your PT for years to come, so stock up.
http://shop.lightningvapes.com/prod...10-pack-ce-type-atty-s-eg-protank-evod-t3-etc

 

[tick22]

alot of great information in this thread. I learned so much from reading it. Now to put some of that advice to good use.
Thanks everyone who added to it...

 

[Saddletramp1200]

i have protank 3 and i always build with singgle coil i was tried make it dual coil and OMG its really hard i was sweat to build it . anyway its protank 2 coil will be fit on protank 3 ?

Nope a PT3 is proprietary. & a real bitch to build, but it's fun.

 

[creedthevaper]

If you want the best protank coil you can get here is the secret. start with some 28 gauge Kanthal. heat it to aneal it a bit. get a peice of readyXwick Slim(2mm) about 1/2 long. use a dress makers pin down the middle of the x wick and wrap an 8 wrap coil.
For me I get about 1.3 - 1.5 with that setup. it wicks like a monster it taste better than any wicking material out there and you never have to replace it. I have one that is 4 months old and still craankiing out the vaper.you can get readyXwick at rba supplies.

 

[TowerOfVape]

When you're re-building a coil and the insulator is shot, is the preference to purchase a new set of rubber or silicone in terms of it's durability for multiple recoils?

Please advise!

 

[sdserio]

When you're re-building a coil and the insulator is shot, is the preference to purchase a new set of rubber or silicone in terms of it's durability for multiple recoils?

Please advise!

So the insulator will have the tendency to get hot and after awhile start to burn. You can buy more of these (this I did not know). Someone posted the info about 3 posts before this one.


The problem I see is that I don't think anyone makes an insulator able to withstand enough heat to get more than 3 or 4 recoils out of it. My rule is if it smells funny, its done.

 

[VaporVino]

If you want the best protank coil you can get here is the secret. start with some 28 gauge Kanthal. heat it to aneal it a bit. get a peice of readyXwick Slim(2mm) about 1/2 long. use a dress makers pin down the middle of the x wick and wrap an 8 wrap coil.
For me I get about 1.3 - 1.5 with that setup. it wicks like a monster it taste better than any wicking material out there and you never have to replace it. I have one that is 4 months old and still craankiing out the vaper.you can get readyXwick at rba supplies.

Hey Creed,

I have been using 32 Kanthal. Why do you prefer the 28? Does it last better? How about heating up on non variable vapes for customers who use ego batteries and such? I love learning new tricks, and yours sound interesting.

Thanks

 

[creedthevaper]

When you're re-building a coil and the insulator is shot, is the preference to purchase a new set of rubber or silicone in terms of it's durability for multiple recoils?

Please advise!

Rich, I always use the silicone ones. They seam to take more heat. I buld quite a few down to .8 ohms and they work great and last too. I use ready X wick 2 MM for the wicking. if it get a bit of sugar build up, I just put it in some everclear for a few minutes dry it and then puls it a very tiny bit be careful here you can over do it.

 

[Slots]

When you're re-building a coil and the insulator is shot, is the preference to purchase a new set of rubber or silicone in terms of it's durability for multiple recoils?

I originally bought the rubber ones, as they are identical to what the PT comes with.
They work fantastic
When I reordered, I purchased both the rubber and silicone.
The only difference I noticed is .. the silicone ones don't have that extra thick edge on the end that you push back up into the atty first.
I haven't tried them yet, as I'm still working on the first package that I had open.
They seem to be a bit softer to squish, but that may be because of that thinner top edge.
Buy a package of both

BTW ... they also sell the little top caps that slides back on the shaft to prevent leakage.

 

[Slots]

Forgot to mention
If anyone is going after these, they have a sale going right now.

Lighting Vapes is offering 25% OFF SITE WIDE for the 4TH !
Coupon Code : LV4th
http://www.lightningvapes.com/

 

[Saddletramp1200]

Forgot to mention
If anyone is going after these, they have a sale going right now.

Lighting Vapes is offering 25% OFF SITE WIDE for the 4TH !
Coupon Code : LV4th
http://www.lightningvapes.com/

I use tweezers, & a Rat Shack Soldering stand with magnifying glass. Learning curve, but it is worth it. Lightning Vapes Rocks! I deal with them a lot. I have 100' of Kanthal A-1 in various sizes. I build, coils. Throw them into a bag when done. Don't work, I don't need it. Probably have a 1/4 cup of juice in wicks I trash. Bulk Apothecary sells gallon bottles. Figure it out for yourself. I don't need VG, PG for a year or so.
Another fragmented post. 12 V Motorcycle battery hooked to a Mechanical Mod/ atty. Just hang on!

 

[Huckleberried]

I originally bought the rubber ones, as they are identical to what the PT comes with.
They work fantastic
When I reordered, I purchased both the rubber and silicone.
The only difference I noticed is .. the silicone ones don't have that extra thick edge on the end that you push back up into the atty first.
I haven't tried them yet, as I'm still working on the first package that I had open.
They seem to be a bit softer to squish, but that may be because of that thinner top edge.
Buy a package of both

BTW ... they also sell the little top caps that slides back on the shaft to prevent leakage.

Holy shit! Slots, you rule. I've looked everywhere for these forever. Last time I ordered the bottom insulator from these guys they didn't sell the top caps. I love you.

 

[Slots]

Holy shit! Slots, you rule. I've looked everywhere for these forever. Last time I ordered the bottom insulator from these guys they didn't sell the top caps. I love you.

Yep, Sean is a cool guy, and the site is growing and adding stuff you can't find anywhere else all the time.

 

[Slots]

If you want the best protank coil you can get here is the secret. start with some 28 gauge Kanthal. and wrap an 8 wrap coil..

For me, I find that using 30g-32g to wrap a coil with, makes it much easier to build a coil that fits into the protank.
Besides, I prefer to have 1.7 - 2.0 to use with the Provari's etc, type of mods.
They shut down if it's too low, and 28g makes for "to low" without a hassle to fit it in the cup (for me)
So much easier to up the gauge, and fit it in.
I use the 28g for building coils for my mechanics, which aren't so fussy, and like the low Ohm's

 

[Saddletramp1200]

Has anyone tried to use copper wire for a coil? Like the kind that is used in electric motors. I might just try it on a dripper. The heat would probably melt it. Maybe not.?

 

[USMC]

Please do not try copper wire, that is a very bad idea.

28 gauge kanthal a1 - 5.27 Ohms/foot
28 gauge copper wire - 0.065 Ohms/foot.

You would create a short circuit, and would likely damage your battery and yourself.

The coils in a motor are not heating elements.
Sorry if this post sounded mean in any way, I just figured an answer with an explanation rather than just a "Don't do it" would be better.

 

[Saddletramp1200]

Please do not try copper wire, that is a very bad idea.

28 gauge kanthal a1 - 5.27 Ohms/foot
28 gauge copper wire - 0.065 Ohms/foot.

You would create a short circuit, and would likely damage your battery and yourself.

The coils in a motor are not heating elements.
Sorry if this post sounded mean in any way, I just figured an answer with an explanation rather than just a "Don't do it" would be better.

Thank You! I throw out ideas. Tungsten used in light bulbs is another idea. Likely too brittle. Edison & Ford asked questions I am sure. Semper Fi.

 

[wally]

i have protank 3 and i always build with singgle coil i was tried make it dual coil and OMG its really hard i was sweat to build it . anyway its protank 2 coil will be fit on protank 3 ?

I use a protank 2 coil on my protank 3. Just add the larger protank 3 rubber cap but turn it up side down on top of the protank 2 rubber cap and it works perfect with a lot more vape.

 

[TK Bisher]

I have rebuilt mine a couple of times using a variation of RIP TRIPPERS how to with the 28ga kanthal. I was getting 1.0-1.2ohm every time and seen that the insulator would get burned after a couple of builds and leak, so if you get some extra insulators you'll be fine for a while. Gonna try to do some 30ga builds tonight and relive some old times. I'll post my results for ya when I get done.

 

[Dutzy]

Try using 28ga. 6 wraps around a zip tie. Seen it on YouTube. Tried a couple myself today comes out to 1.5 ohm and the shape makes a great wick.

 

[TK Bisher]

This is 9 wraps on a 1/16 bit using 28ga kanthal. Has worked great for me and hope it helps you.

 

[VapingCuban]

Looks like your getting a lot of good advice, so I will just add one thing.
You will find the little rubber "Coil Insulator" will need replacing off and on.
It would be a good idea to pick up a pkg (10 in a pack) to have on hand.
Sometimes they rip, or if they get repeated burn spots from the wires, they need to be replaced.
They are about the only thing that will keep you from using your PT for years to come, so stock up.
http://shop.lightningvapes.com/prod...10-pack-ce-type-atty-s-eg-protank-evod-t3-etc

Oh crap... Thx didn't know they sold insulators for the protanks. Cool.

 

[Slots]

Oh crap... Thx didn't know they sold insulators for the protanks. Cool.

As long as your there, you may as well pick up some "top caps" too.
Those are the little guys with the hole, that slip back on the stem, to prevent leakage.

 

[Slots]

Need to make a correction here

When asked if there was a difference between the silicone and rubber insulator replacements for the PT atty I said "The only difference I noticed is .. the silicone ones don't have that extra thick edge on the end that you push back up into the atty first."
Wrong ..they are exactly the same shape and size as the rubber. I was thinking of a different silicon that fits a different atty
...sorry

 

[Huckleberried]

I'll note that I had to rinse mine thoroughly. I even did a baking soda soak & rinse to remove the rubberish taste they had.


Sent from my stupid iPhone because I don't have an Android.

 

[hazozita]

An option I use when my hands are acting up is the pre-built NR-R-NR coils from Fasttech. Can get 50 of them for a couple of bucks, and they fit great in a Protank. Wick with rayon, and good to go. Plus, the NR legs don't heat up, so no burning of the insulator.

The link is for 1.5ohm coils. Also have them in other resistances. https://www.fasttech.com/p/1591703

You can also get a bundle of 100 that are straight wire for about the same price. The non-resistance legs are great for eliminating insulator burns. The lowest resistance straight wire they sell is 1.3, but you can twist two together if you want to sub-ohm on the Protank.

 

[chris.ardito.3]

He does that same build for the pro tank mini and evod tanks. But he uses a 5/64 drill bit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MacTechVpr]

An option I use when my hands are acting up is the pre-built NR-R-NR coils from Fasttech. Can get 50 of them for a couple of bucks, and they fit great in a Protank. Wick with rayon, and good to go. Plus, the NR legs don't heat up, so no burning of the insulator.

The link is for 1.5ohm coils. Also have them in other resistances. https://www.fasttech.com/p/1591703

You can also get a bundle of 100 that are straight wire for about the same price. The non-resistance legs are great for eliminating insulator burns. The lowest resistance straight wire they sell is 1.3, but you can twist two together if you want to sub-ohm on the Protank.

Hazozita, or you could just wind them so that they don't short…it takes 15 seconds...




Tap me on the shoulder, we'll show you how sometime.

Good luck.

 

[MacTechVpr]

I use a protank 2 coil on my protank 3. Just add the larger protank 3 rubber cap but turn it up side down on top of the protank 2 rubber cap and it works perfect with a lot more vape.

So Rip T reported when the dual-coils came out.

Good luck.