Hi everyone. Brand new to vaping. I just got the Sigelei mini with an Aspire Nautilus tank. I've been reading a bit and trying to understand how the ohms and volts effect things and I'm not grasping it all that much. One thing i have picked up on is that lower ohms will be a more tasty vape. True? I know this box goes down to .3ohms but I'm not sure how to get it to do that. Are ohms controlled strictly by the hardware? I know this had a 1.8ohm and 1.6 ohm atomizer with it so i'm guessing that's the case but I'm not understanding then what the Direct (DCDC) mode here is for if you can't adjust anything. I want to try lower ohm but can't get it to do that at all even with direct mode. Info appreciated. Thank you.
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Question about ohms...newbie nonsense..Sigelei Mini
- Thread starter theargonaut33
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Anyone?
CurlyxCracker
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Ok so ohms are the resistance of the coil. You can't change the ohms without changing the coil. Lower resistance doesn't necessarily mean better vape. The nautilus isn't a sub ohm tank, meaning you won't find a 0.3ohm coil for it. And if you did that tank would get very hot as there's not enough airflow to complement that much heat. If you like the nautilus, check out the Atlantis. That's aspires sub ohm tank, you can get 0.5 ohm head for it.
Now onto how ohms works with voltage. The resistance (which is a fixed number) with voltage (which you can adjust) will give you the wattage or power your mod is putting to the coil. It can also give you the amperage required from the battery to provide that many watts. To make it simple Google "ohms law calculator" you'll put in two figures, the resistance and the voltage or wattage and it will calculate the other values for you.
Hope it helps.
Nostradadus
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The DC/DC option is for switching the unit into "mechanical mod mode". It bypasses the variable wattage function. While the battery fades in power, you will get that slow elevator ride down, taste wise from your juice, as one would using a mech mod.
This is very helpful. Thank you. I'm understanding the hardware/ohm relationship now. Follow up questions.
1. The rating for the Sigelei mini goes down to .3 ohm according to the manual. So in you saying I can't find a coil for it, how would I achieve .3 ohm then? Is this only achieved by getting a different tank? Is my Nautilus limited to 1.6 or 1.8 ohm?
2. How do i know which tanks I can use with my Sigelei mini?
3. Can it use sub ohm tanks?
4. I read somewhere that the battery has to be capable of doing sub ohm and direct. Is that true and how do I know what the limitations of my battery are?
Thank you very much again for taking the time to respond. Very much appreciated.
1 no you cant get a .3 ohm coil for that tank you need a sub ohm tank. Sub ohm is anything from 1ohm and under usually lower you go the hotter it gets there for you need more airflow to compensate that. Sub ohm tanks are mainly for lung hits not toking then inhale just straight hit to the lung.
2 most tanks should go on that battery
3 yes it can use sub ohm tanks
4 yes there are limits in your case .3 ohm is the lowest it will go if not it wont fire
Hope this helps im not a pro at this but iv learnt enough from these guys on here who has helped me along the way so my turn to pass on there knowledge lol
happy vaping
CurlyxCracker
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Also I assume the Sigelei mini takes a replaceable 18650. What is the one you went with?
CurlyxCracker
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Also anything with a 510 threaded pin will fit. Ego threaded will fit with a 510 to ego adapter. But being that you want to subohm, you won't be needing ego threading
Lefty
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You find the specs for your battery by Googling the manufacturer and model of the battery preceded by test or review. The amp limits that may be printed on the battery may not be an accurate reflection of it's true capabilities. What you are looking for is the continuous amp drain rating of the battery. When running in regulated mode the chip in the Sig mini has a maximum amp draw of 13 amps. Since you can run the mod in direct mode I'd recommend a battery with a 20 amp continuous rating. The Samsung 25R or the LG HE2 or HE4 would be good, safe and inexpensive choices. You never said what battery you are using now. You may already have a capable cell but we'd need to know what you have before advising. If you are running it at medium to low wattage - and with the Nautilus I'm pretty sure that's the case - then it's not really putting too much stress on the battery. If however you purchase a sub-ohm tank and run it at high wattage or in direct mode then you need to make sure you have a quality cell in the mod.
HI Curly. I'm going back through all these threads now to get a better understanding. Not sure what battery i have to be honest but I'm pretty sure it's a pile of shit. I took it out. It's just plain blue and says HPST22-18650-1403 and came in a generic white box. A quick google search shows nothing for that number. There are absolutely no other markings on the battery. This leads to my next question.
I went to buy atomizers for my Aspire Nautilus yesterday and I decided to buy a sub ohm tank to check it out. I went with the new Aspire Triton. Looks good and the guy said it was decent but I'm pretty sure the place i'm going to sucks so I don't know how valid his opinion is at this point. He told me the battery that they sold me would work fine with this tank but I'm beginning to wonder as I'm way under impressed with sub ohm vaping after every person I have talked to raves about it. I"m wondering if the battery I have can't do sub ohm very well as my searching has led me to believe the battery plays a huge part in sub ohm vaping. I couldn't really even get the tank to work until I went DC DC to be honest. So i've got some new questions naturally.
1. Why does the battery matter more in sub ohm vaping?
2. How do I know which battery to buy for sub ohm vaping and do i have to switch it when I do plus ohm vaping?
3. When do I use DC DC vs PWM?
Still learning here so please bear with me. Your time is greatly appreciated. Thanks everyone.
When should I used DC DC mode though? Are there certain circumstances to use that in for certain hardware or something? Is it just a different type of vape?
DC DC essentially turns your regulated mod into a ln unregulated mod or mech mod. It will deliver the max power output of the battery and generally fade in power as the battery discharges. That function would mostly be used with and RDA (dripper) as to the battery , when you are sub ohm vaping your pulling more volts and amps from the battery. Try to go with a good , quality , name brand battery, Sony vtc4 ot vtc5, samsung 25r or lg. There are plenty to choose from but look for one with at least a 30amp rating. Any vape shop with a decent staff should be able to steer you towards a good battery. I know kidney puncher has vtc5's in stock for 12.95$ a piece. Most reputable websites should have a good selection of quality batteries as well.
CurlyxCracker
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1. Because with low resistance you're pulling more amps from the battery, you need a battery capable so it doesn't vent.
2. Something with a higher amp draw and authentic. Like Samsung 25r, lg he2/he4, Sony vct 3,4,or 5. Some of the rewrapped batteries like efest or mxjo. Just be careful efest has exaggerated some specs on some batteries. No you can use them for your nautilus too for example.
3. If your using dc dc mode your only getting voltage left in the battery minus what's lost in the circuitry. Personally I'd stick with PWM.
What resistance are you running in the triton? Id stick with 0.5ohms and go all the way to 30.
I bought a pack of the samsungs. Thank you for that info. In regards to the DCDC, CAN i use that all the time? Will it harm anything under any circumstance (certain hardware, levels, etc)? It seems to deliver a better, more consistent vape. Thank you very much for the reply. Sorry for all the questions. Still trying to learn all this stuff.
I went with the Samsung batteries. Should have them early next week. Have to see what that does to my sub ohm vaping. I've been doing
some more research and it seems that most people say to use that triton at minimum 40watts which my Sigelei mini can't get to. Any stock in that information?
I'm currently using a .4ohm coil as that's what came with it and all that had more of at the dumpy shop i went to.
As i mentioned in my previously reply to Triplenickel, it seems that DCDC gets me a more consistent vape. Is there any harm in always using that? It seems that when I had the .4ohm coil in that it was the only way I could really even get the Triton to work.
Thank you for the info!
One last note to both of you. I put my Nautilus back on to do an A/B of that and the Triton. Nautilus has 1.6ohm coil with the Triton with the 1.8ohm. Not using the sub ohm coil until I get the battery. With the 1.8, the Triton seems to have an AWESOME flavor and I'm wondering if the Sigelei mini isn't powerful enough to atomize the juice as much so is it possible i'm tasting the juice? It doesn't feel that way but the flavor is pretty strong. Thoughts? Thanks.
CurlyxCracker
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No there isn't any risk of damage to your hardware, it's still has active protection in place. A 0.4ohm coil, yes better off in DC dc mod. You can use 0.5ohm Atlantis heads and 30w should be good I found the burn wattage is just over 37.5w with the 0.5ohm heads. Atlantis heads fit the triton from what I remember.
CurlyxCracker
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I'd like to add it's good to use the correct batteries (Samsungs are) when using in DC dc or mech mode
You are correct as the coils they sold me say compatible with Atlantis on the back of the box. If the burn wattage is 37.5 and my Sigelei maxes out at 30w, isn't that a problem?
CurlyxCracker
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No. You should have a nice vape at 30w on a 0.5ohm coil hold on a second, I'll post how I interpret it at 30w
CurlyxCracker
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30w on a 0.5 is giving me roughly 3v but it's still decent imo.
CurlyxCracker
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Another option is getting the 0.3ohm coils for the triton and running in mech mode like you've been. AFAIK, they don't make a 0.4ohm coil... Maybe just the included one?
CurlyxCracker
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That's false. A 0.7ohm coil would be ideal
Sure it would work, but not "ideal". Very VERY few subtanks have coils higher than .5 first of all, and even then you would need the poor sigelei maxed out to enjoy it with very little room for adjustment. .5 is a common resistance for subtanks, and you would want more than 30 watts to enjoy it.
If you're not going the temp control route buy a Sig 150 or the new Sig 150 TC if you may want to move into Ni/Ti later and call it a day. As I've mentioned before I like having more power than I need all the time. That is if you have the budget and want to move into higher power mods to expand the devices you can use optimally. The new Sig 75w TC could also be a good option. Hell who am I kidding.. I look for reasons to buy more mods. Lol.
CurlyxCracker
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The new istick 100w looks tempting at ~$40
CurlyxCracker
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Also 0.7 ohms at 30w is 4.5v more than enough for satisfying vape.
Only rdas I use 5v+ tanks hover about 4.2
Only rdas I use 5v+ tanks hover about 4.2
CurlyxCracker
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0.8ohm heads. 30w is definatly enough.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0...lacement-coil-head-for-atlantis-clearomizer-5
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0...lacement-coil-head-for-atlantis-clearomizer-5
I've been thinking about this Rhyno. I was looking at the iTaste MVP3.0 Pro or the IPV4S. Thoughts?
Well, I personally am not a fan of either of those. The mvp is nothing special at all, and the ipv4 has too many mixed thoughts from the community. Size and battery life are my biggest concerns when buying a mod. I just bought the ipv d2 and absolutely love it. Like seriously, love it. I also bought the istick 100 but haven't received it yet. I am looking forward to it though. I love my sigelei 150, but it's really just too big to carry around everyday. I strongly recommend the ipv d2. As long as there are no hang ups with it, the istick 100 will be a rock star too for sure. You can get them both for less than 50 bucks each. The ipv has temp control, and the Istick 100 does not.
Fair enough and thanks for the reply. Can you tell me why you like and in your opinion why it's better than the others? Thank you again.
I like it because of the esthetics, the size, and the performance. Read the reviews, people love it.
Hello again Ryhno. Been doping more research and I keep reading great things about the ipv d2 and I'm pretty sold. One thin I read was that there was a recall or something on them and that's why they are scarce right now? know anything about that? I don't want to buy anything that is going to burn my face off or something
. Just looking for some final reassurance. Thanks again.
Well after reading these posts I think I'll order the d2..because I've ordered from origin vape before i just signed up for an email notice when they have them in stock again...something about this forum always has me tempting to spend more money on vape gear..lol
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Alright, pulled the trigger. On the way. Thanks for all your help. Don't be surprised if I ask you a few questions after I get it. Your time is appreciated. I"m really looking forward to trying the temp control functions and I'm hoping this thing doesn't chew up atomizers like my current mod does i can tell you that! Thanks again.
If you don't mind me asking who did you order it from and for how much $$.. Thx
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101vape has them in stock for 50. Enjoy.
Just placed my order from 101 Vapes..
I live in CA so sales tax was added..also added 2 day priority mail at almost $6..
Hope I like this mod as much as you guys do..thx again for the info on 101 vape..
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We often compare electric current to water flowing in a hose. Voltage is similar to the water pressure. Like the water, when we turn on the flow, typically you will have less pressure. The hose, say a skinny one offers "resistance" to the flow of water, just like a piece of kanthal resists current flow. This resistance to flow is what causes heat when we force current through the wire. The flow of current is similar to the flow of water through our hose. A very skinny hose wont let much through. Something like that anyway. With a regulated mod, super low ohm coils aren't necessary to achieve high wattage. Which is what we need to create clouds of vapor.
Thanks, but why did you explain this here?
Just don't ask me questions about temp control. I'm new to temp control and I don't really like it so far. The vape is fine, but it's not significantly better enough to regularly deal with another variable in my journey for the perfect vape. I'm satisfied with it in standard power mode. (The D2 does both power mode and temp control mode)
The original poster was asking about ohms and stuff...
Hey guys. Got my ipvd2 today. Good so far. Wondering if you guys have any settings recommendations. I know this is a taste thing but just wondering what you guys are using as far as tanks and coils. I'm using it with an aspire triton with a 4ohm coil at the moment. Trying it out at 40w right now. Not sure really where I should be. Also, have you used the temp functions at all?
EDIT: sorry about the temp control questions. Just went back and caught up on posts!
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EDIT: sorry about the temp control questions. Just went back and caught up on posts!
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This is good slurp. I like the analogy. Helps me understand it more. Thanks!
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On the one hand, TC can be a pain in the ass. It can be time consuming to get it dialed in from one build to the next and the flavor is not too good until you do. Small changes make big differences, but once you find just the right balance, it works well. What it does for me is it let's me relax my focus and attention and not worry if I'm starting to get a hint of a dry hit. I don't have to worry about accidentally running my tank/reservoir dry (Don't look at me like that. You know you've done it too!). It's liberating.