Question about the Noisy Cricket.....

[havoc1967]

Ok, I ordered a Noisy Cricket mod which should arrive any day. It will be my first series mod. I have numerous mechs already (tube and box). I generally use a single coil set up, at anywhere from .6 to .8 Never below .5

I realize that a series device will provide more power so I should go higher. My question is this, will this work with a single coil at .9 or 1 ohm? Or does it have to be a dual coil set up? At dual coil would .5 or higher work well?

 

[DED420]

I believe you have it a little backwards, the higher the ohm, the less power it takes to run them. That's why they usually tell you the lowest ohm a mod can fire at, not the highest (Ex. 20W iStick can only fire down to 1ohm, where the 50W istick can fire down to 0.2ohm) So a series box would allow you to build lower than on a single mech or parallel. This means, with the right batteries, you could run builds lower than 0.2ohms. It will be able to handle single and dual coil builds with ease, but battery life will be drastically reduced with 2 or more coils or lower ohms.

A useful tool to figure out your safety limits with a given mod/battery/build is http://www.steam-engine.org/

Most importantly, with series boxes you MUST marry 2 new batteries and rotate them each charge.
EX. batt1 in slot1, batt2 in slot2 - charge batteries - batt1 in slot2, batt2 in slot1

 

[hogheadv]

I believe you have it a little backwards, the higher the ohm, the less power it takes to run them. That's why they usually tell you the lowest ohm a mod can fire at, not the highest (Ex. 20W iStick can only fire down to 1ohm, where the 50W istick can fire down to 0.2ohm) So a series box would allow you to build lower than on a single mech or parallel. This means, with the right batteries, you could run builds lower than 0.2ohms. It will be able to handle single and dual coil builds with ease, but battery life will be drastically reduced with 2 or more coils or lower ohms.

A useful tool to figure out your safety limits with a given mod/battery/build is http://www.steam-engine.org/

Most importantly, with series boxes you MUST marry 2 new batteries and rotate them each charge.
EX. batt1 in slot1, batt2 in slot2 - charge batteries - batt1 in slot2, batt2 in slot1

No to the building lower, although what you said would be true with a parallel mechanical. With a series mechanical you are putting 8.4 volts to the coil. building that low would be ridiculously rowdy. You are fine building where you are or even higher. You don't say what guage wire you are using to reach your ohms but I would not run thin wire in a series mech. You want to have "higher ohms" , .4 to 1 ohm, but you want the wire mass to be able to handle having 8.4 volts thrown at it. Which will mean rather large coils.

 

[Derivitiv]

I believe you have it a little backwards, the higher the ohm, the less power it takes to run them. That's why they usually tell you the lowest ohm a mod can fire at, not the highest (Ex. 20W iStick can only fire down to 1ohm, where the 50W istick can fire down to 0.2ohm) So a series box would allow you to build lower than on a single mech or parallel. This means, with the right batteries, you could run builds lower than 0.2ohms. It will be able to handle single and dual coil builds with ease, but battery life will be drastically reduced with 2 or more coils or lower ohms.

A useful tool to figure out your safety limits with a given mod/battery/build is http://www.steam-engine.org/

Most importantly, with series boxes you MUST marry 2 new batteries and rotate them each charge.
EX. batt1 in slot1, batt2 in slot2 - charge batteries - batt1 in slot2, batt2 in slot1

I'm gonna have to disagree with you on that one, DED. Less resistance means that more electricity can go through the coil. This means that the coil will get hotter, faster. You're already getting that by the fact that the Cricket is a series box firing at 8.4 volts. Havoc, you're going to want to build higher on the Cricket. You can run a single or dual coil setup. Keep in mind that resistance is halved in a dual coil setup. So, two one ohm coils would come out to .5 ohms. Both are perfectly safe in a Cricket.

 

[havoc1967]

So a single .8 coil using 24ga wire would work fine then?

 

[Derivitiv]

So a single .8 coil using 24ga wire would work fine then?

Absolutely!

 

[robot zombie]

A .8 single 24g should be fine - you might have wicking problems with it, though. Keep the diameter well within the macro range. I'm talking 3mm at the smallest.

Honestly, most duals at .5 are really feisty... ...too feisty for normal wicking. I usually clapton those to keep them from burning juice.

But that's way too low for what I think you're after anyway. Might wanna stick with 26 and 28 for the duals (and probably the singles, too.) You can run them all the way up to an ohm... ...possibly closer to 2 ohms with the 28. The thicker wires get really HOT with all of that voltage being pumped into them. Personally, I'm getting more balanced results with thinner wire in mid-power builds. They have that nice quick up-and-down. One of my favorite builds to do for the NC is a .7ish dual 40/28 clapton. Even that is a pretty serious vape. It can get pretty hot, which is something I like, but judging by your current builds, I'm guessing you don't.

Since you're running .6-.8 builds on a mech, you might as well double the size of those builds and tweak it from there until you get a feel for how the voltage affects heating. It's not as straightforward as it looks to be on paper.

What you could do is take one of those .6-.8 mech builds and toss it on your cricket. That should give you an idea of how much higher you'll need to build lol. Who knows? Maybe you'll wind up liking them as they are. But with them being singles, probably not... ...that's more the sweet spot range for duals. Please don't actually try to vape that. Just give it a squeeze and observe.

Alright, one more edit... ...just to clarify on what I mean when I say it isn't as straightforward as it seems. When you double your voltage, the current load doubles as well. A .5 at 4v pulls 8A and generates 32w. A .5 at 8v pulls 16A and generates 128w. So you see, it actually quadruples your power. A 1 ohm coil at 8v still puts out 64w, which is double the power of a .5 at 4v.

Even knowing that, it's not as simple as making a bigger, lower-draw coil. The whole balance of power and surface area is fundamentally different. Like I said, it's going to take some tweaking.

 

[hogheadv]

 

[Robert B]

Wow, telling someone to build a .2 on a series mech.. and then telling the OP to check out steamengine which he didn't do himself.

I use 26 gauge dual coil 3mm ID @ .85 on my crickets, and it vapes a lot like running the same atty on my dna200 at 75 to 80watts.
When I first got my cricket, I tried a .4ohm build and about coughed up a lung


A .2 build on the cricket is going to roughly draw 42amps and push 353 watts with fresh batteries

 

[Fishman1704]

I happen to have a Noisy Cricket mod I purchased when they were still on pre-order. I don't know how one of the posters did a 40 over 26 Clapton. I don't even know where you can get 40 gauge wire. I first did a 32 over 26 Clapton, seven wraps around an 1/8" drill bit, and the 32 gauge wire blew up the first time I pulsed it. I then did a 30 over 26 Clapton, 7 wraps dual coil and it worked like a dream. On a Doge V2 Atty, this thing filled my living with so many clouds I thought about putting a raincoat on and breaking out an umbrella. Expect a serious rise in your juice budget if you use this with any regularity 'cause you will be dripping every three or four hits, and expect a buzz even using 3 nic juice. They said this thing was a hard hitter and they weren't kidding. The Noisy Cricket is a perfect example of how keeping something extra simple really does produce top notch results. I just hit it from time to time. Maybe after I win the lottery and can afford 50 ml of juice a day I'll use it more, but I do like having it in my line up. I hope you find your sweet spot and enjoy.

 

[Robert B]

I happen to have a Noisy Cricket mod I purchased when they were still on pre-order. I don't know how one of the posters did a 40 over 26 Clapton. I don't even know where you can get 40 gauge wire. I first did a 32 over 26 Clapton, seven wraps around an 1/8" drill bit, and the 32 gauge wire blew up the first time I pulsed it. I then did a 30 over 26 Clapton, 7 wraps dual coil and it worked like a dream. On a Doge V2 Atty, this thing filled my living with so many clouds I thought about putting a raincoat on and breaking out an umbrella. Expect a serious rise in your juice budget if you use this with any regularity 'cause you will be dripping every three or four hits, and expect a buzz even using 3 nic juice. They said this thing was a hard hitter and they weren't kidding. The Noisy Cricket is a perfect example of how keeping something extra simple really does produce top notch results. I just hit it from time to time. Maybe after I win the lottery and can afford 50 ml of juice a day I'll use it more, but I do like having it in my line up. I hope you find your sweet spot and enjoy.

Hard to do with claptons, but just build higher ohm coil(s)

 

[DED420]

My bad, I apologize, I got my parallel and series info a lil' mixed up, had to many threads open at once, getting things a lil' confused.

Thanks to all for correcting me, and helping him get the correct info to vape safely.

Again, Apologies

 

[Robert B]

My bad, I apologize, I got my parallel and series info a lil' mixed up, had to many threads open at once, getting things a lil' confused.

Thanks to all for correcting me, and helping him get the correct info to vape safely.
Again, Apologies

No big deal man. We all have to read carefully and watch what we say to people unfamiliar. OP was/is on the right track though !!

 

[robot zombie]

I happen to have a Noisy Cricket mod I purchased when they were still on pre-order. I don't know how one of the posters did a 40 over 26 Clapton. I don't even know where you can get 40 gauge wire. I first did a 32 over 26 Clapton, seven wraps around an 1/8" drill bit, and the 32 gauge wire blew up the first time I pulsed it. I then did a 30 over 26 Clapton, 7 wraps dual coil and it worked like a dream. On a Doge V2 Atty, this thing filled my living with so many clouds I thought about putting a raincoat on and breaking out an umbrella. Expect a serious rise in your juice budget if you use this with any regularity 'cause you will be dripping every three or four hits, and expect a buzz even using 3 nic juice. They said this thing was a hard hitter and they weren't kidding. The Noisy Cricket is a perfect example of how keeping something extra simple really does produce top notch results. I just hit it from time to time. Maybe after I win the lottery and can afford 50 ml of juice a day I'll use it more, but I do like having it in my line up. I hope you find your sweet spot and enjoy.

Hey! It was 40/28! It's easy to find the ultra-fine gauges on ebay. Lightning Vapes has great prices on them too. The thinnest wire I have is 46, which I never use because its a PITA to work with. I prefer 38 or 40 for the faster ramp. I swear the flavor and especially the texture are better. Never had any trouble with popping them, though I'm a very cautious pulser.

The juice consumption is definitely a thing. The NC is at the front of my daily rotation, which is why I vape cheap juice. I couldn't see hitting 50ml, though. On a typical day, I rip through 20ml at most.. ...usually closer to 10 or 15. Very occasionally, I will pass 30ml, often when I don't have enough to do with my hands. Whether this has to do with my habits or the fact that my coils have far less mass, I couldn't begin to guess.

It really does hit pretty hard, though. I don't care too much about that - it's series, so it's gonna hit hard even with some drop to it, which it actually does seem to have a significant amount of. Under no load, the VTC5 batteries are pushing 8.2v, which makes sense since the charger shows 4.1 for either. Under the load of a snubnose with a .68 in it, it's only pushing 7.4v. A lot of that is probably sag from the VTC5's. I could work that out with more testing, but I think its safe to assume that the drop from the device itself has to be above .1v

That being said, it's still a really rugged, compact, and power-efficient device. That alone has made it my ADV. I run at around 100w all day on a single pair of 2500mah batteries. By the end of the day, they may hit 7.4v, which still gives me 80w. Can't really beat that! I'm big on simple devices that perform really well. My other mech mod is a SMPL... ...though unlike the SMPL, I actually prefer this mod over my Sigelei 150. It's at least 30% smaller and just as powerful, not to mention better on battery life.

My bad, I apologize, I got my parallel and series info a lil' mixed up, had to many threads open at once, getting things a lil' confused.
Thanks to all for correcting me, and helping him get the correct info to vape safely.
Again, Apologies

You did the right thing by owning what you said. Thanks for staying sincere about it rather than making this a shitfest... ...it's very commendable for you to admit your mistake and move on. And hey, if we had been talking parallel, what you put up would have been good advice.

 

[Robert B]

It really does hit pretty hard, though. I don't care too much about that - it's series, so it's gonna hit hard even with some drop to it, which it actually does seem to have a significant amount of. Under no load, the VTC5 batteries are pushing 8.2v, which makes sense since the charger shows 4.1 for either. Under the load of a snubnose with a .68 in it, it's only pushing 7.4v. A lot of that is probably sag from the VTC5's. I could work that out with more testing, but I think its safe to assume that the drop from the device itself has to be above .1v

Your voltage drop looks like .8.
Try cleaning up the threads and the contacts on the mod & atty. I was able to get to a .5 voltage drop just by cleaning it up and freshening up the coils.

 

[CrazyChef]

So, while my batteries are charging, I decided to put a new build in the Derringer clone for the Noisy Cricket. Any thoughts on this? There's a pretty decent amount of metal for a series mod (from what I've read), so I thought I'd ask your opinions.

2x28KA1/38KD fused Clapton, 10.5 wraps, 0.49Ω

 

[Robert B]

So, while my batteries are charging, I decided to put a new build in the Derringer clone for the Noisy Cricket. Any thoughts on this? There's a pretty decent amount of metal for a series mod (from what I've read), so I thought I'd ask your opinions.

2x28KA1/38KD fused Clapton, 10.5 wraps, 0.49Ω

I'd cough up a lung and burn my lips @ .49 on the cricket. Especially with that atty !

 

[CrazyChef]

Well, that didn't work out so well. Gonna stop tryin' to get all fancy and just put something basic in it.

 

[martinelias]

I like a .3 vape myself in series...

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

 

[CrazyChef]

Back to basics. 13.5 wraps, 26K, 0.74Ω. Vape's not bad. May have to go with a high gauge fused Clapton next time.

 

[Robert B]

I like a .3 vape myself in series...

At 8 volts on a noisy cricket? You're a lot braver than I.

 

[robot zombie]

Back to basics. 13.5 wraps, 26K, 0.74Ω. Vape's not bad. May have to go with a high gauge fused Clapton next time.

View attachment 37470

Highly recommend it. I'm running a little dual fused 38n/30k - 8 wraps @ 2.5mm. Ohms out somewhere in the .6 range. It's not bad... ...not at all.

 

[CrazyChef]

Cool, I'll try that next. I was gonna go with 2x32K/46N, but I'll try your idea first.

 

[Bucky205]

Ohm's law tells us a couple of things. not only does I=E/R. But also, Power in watts will always equal voltage squared divided by resistance. In vaping, watts = Heat, Lower resistance at any given voltage will always equal more heat. but will draw more amps. When you put batteries in series, the voltages accumulate, and mah remains the same. When you put batteries in parallel mah accumulates, and voltage remains the same.

At 4.2 volts, .5 ohms P=v squared /r, P = 4.2 X 4.2 / .5, P=35.2 watts, 8.4 amps
At 4.2 volts, .7 ohms P=v squared /r P = 4.2 X 4.2 / .7,P=25.2 watts, 6 amps

At 8.4 volts, .5 ohms P=v squared /r P = 8.4 X 8.4 / .5,P= 141.12 watts, 16.8 amps
At 8.4 volts, .7 ohms P=v squared /r P = 8.4 X 8.4 / .7,P= 100.8 watts, 12 amps

 

[robot zombie]

Cool, I'll try that next. I was gonna go with 2x32K/46N, but I'll try your idea first.

It's funny you mention that, I've been playing with an idea to try a build with something like that today, only with 46k. Just based on the performance of the build I'm running now, I wanted to try something I could stage with 28 or 30.

 

[BoomStick]

In vaping, watts = Heat, Lower resistance at any given voltage will always equal more heat.

This statement isn't true. You have completely ignored the mass of material in the heating element. Take a single coil of 30 gauge wire that measures 1 ohm and take quad 20 gauge coils that measure .9 ohms and apply the same voltage to both. You think the .9, thick wire quads will get hotter than the 1.0, thin wire single? Not hardly. It's about more than just numbers.

 

[Bucky205]

This statement isn't true. You have completely ignored the mass of material in the heating element. Take a single coil of 30 gauge wire that measures 1 ohm and take quad 20 gauge coils that measure .9 ohms and apply the same voltage to both. You think the .9, thick wire quads will get hotter than the 1.0, thin wire single? Not hardly. It's about more than just numbers.

It's exactly true, more watts equal more heat produced. If you produced 150 watts, you made 150 watts of heat, period. Your confusing heat and temperature. Heat and temperature are not the same thing. Heat energy is the total kinetic energy of the atoms of a substance. Temperature is the average kinetic energy of the atoms of a substance. Heat is just "waste energy", when you use a certain amount of energy you always produce the same amount of heat. In the case of a resistor there is nowhere else for the energy to go, so all of the energy you supply to the resistor is converted into heat. With your quad coil example you introduced a material with more mass. Even though more heat was produced it spread through the material slower because of the mass. My statement of more watts equal more heat is absolutely correct. Your saying that it takes more heat to bring greater substance up to a temperature is also correct. As long as the heat capacity of the two substances are the same, it will take more heat to achieve a given temperature in a larger mass. It's always about numbers. Math is the only absolute truth we have.

 

[Fishman1704]

Yeah one coil, 4 coils, 40 coils. It's gonna be hot. I'm still intrigued about the 40+ gauge wire you guys are using on your claptons. It must take you a full battery on your drill to wind that thing up. I found one supplier of 42 gauge kanthol on Amazon and it was selling for 38 bucks for 100' roll. Seems high. What's your source?

 

[BoomStick]

It's exactly true, more watts equal more heat produced. If you produced 150 watts, you made 150 watts of heat, period. Your confusing heat and temperature. Heat and temperature are not the same thing. Heat energy is the total kinetic energy of the atoms of a substance. Temperature is the average kinetic energy of the atoms of a substance. Heat is just "waste energy", when you use a certain amount of energy you always produce the same amount of heat. In the case of a resistor there is nowhere else for the energy to go, so all of the energy you supply to the resistor is converted into heat. With your quad coil example you introduced a material with more mass. Even though more heat was produced it spread through the material slower because of the mass. My statement of more watts equal more heat is absolutely correct. Your saying that it takes more heat to bring greater substance up to a temperature is also correct. As long as the heat capacity of the two substances are the same, it will take more heat to achieve a given temperature in a larger mass. It's always about numbers. Math is the only absolute truth we have.

In vaping, lower ohms doesn't always equal a hotter vape. You can play physics lawyerball by yourself. And numbers are symbols that humans created in their minds to represent specific quantities of something. Numbers themselves are figments of our imagination. It's not actually about numbers. It's about the non imaginary stuff in the universe that numbers and math represent. Have a nice day. I'm out.

 

[Bucky205]

In vaping, lower ohms doesn't always equal a hotter vape. You can play physics lawyerball by yourself. And numbers are symbols that humans created in their minds to represent specific quantities of something. Numbers themselves are figments of our imagination. It's not actually about numbers. It's about the non imaginary stuff in the universe that numbers and math represent. Have a nice day. I'm out.

I wasn't faulting your logic at all. I was just enjoying the discussion, it was more interesting than who makes the best RDA, that I see all the time. These type discussions make you think. I simply explained why I made the statement more watts equal more heat. I totally agree with you that more watts does not always equal more temperature, or hotter vape. Was just discussing the science of why it happens that was proven years before you or I ever existed. You have a nice day as well. I enjoyed the discussion

 

[martinelias]

I feel like watching that universe show now with morgan freeman.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

 

[empt3]

I wasn't faulting your logic at all. I was just enjoying the discussion, it was more interesting than who makes the best RDA, that I see all the time. These type discussions make you think. I simply explained why I made the statement more watts equal more heat. I totally agree with you that more watts does not always equal more temperature, or hotter vape. Was just discussing the science of why it happens that was proven years before you or I ever existed. You have a nice day as well. I enjoyed the discussion

I too enjoy discussions on the science behind vaping. Its not a frequent topic on forums I participate on, and any attempts at sparking dialogue or locating resources to study seem to be overlooked.

I'm considering the cricket, but don't know if its cell configuration allows for something a parallel mechanical can't achieve.

 

[robot zombie]

I'm considering the cricket, but don't know if its cell configuration allows for something a parallel mechanical can't achieve.

A parallel mech can't drive a .5 coil to 128w. A .125 @ 128w on a parallel box is a completely different creature. You've got to look beyond things like current draw and wattage. It's about the surface area-power ratio.

 

[Bucky205]

I too enjoy discussions on the science behind vaping. Its not a frequent topic on forums I participate on, and any attempts at sparking dialogue or locating resources to study seem to be overlooked.

I'm considering the cricket, but don't know if its cell configuration allows for something a parallel mechanical can't achieve.

It would be cool if you were primarily cloud chasing. It can definitely achieve more volts than your typical parallel MECH, so in effect it can produce more watts. A .9 build would give you 78 watts at 9.3 amps. Your limiting factor on watts becomes the amperage that your batteries are capable of. I have a tough time recommending a MECH unless your competing. For slightly more you can get a Reuleaux 200 with a lot more flexibility, and much safer.

 

[robot zombie]

I have a tough time recommending a MECH unless your competing.

How many comps allow contestants to use a series mod?

I like the NC because it can power finer or higher-surface area builds... ...which I suppose can improve vapor. For me, its all about the flavor and density. Series gives me a hard-hitting vape with lots of flavor. I can do builds for my tube mods and high-power boxes that do clouds better.

 

[Bucky205]

How many comps allow contestants to use a series mod?

I like the NC because it can power finer or higher-surface area builds... ...which I suppose can improve vapor. For me, its all about the flavor and density. Series gives me a hard-hitting vape with lots of flavor. I can do builds for my tube mods and high-power boxes that do clouds better.

They normally don't. Just saying that's it's the only time I would recommend any mech. Single battery 18650 mech is the normal requirement here.

 

[robot zombie]

They normally don't. Just saying that's it's the only time I would recommend any mech. Single battery 18650 mech is the normal requirement here.

Gotcha. I was a little confused by your wording.

I'm still going to have to disagree with you on series mechs, though. I think they offer a unique performance profile that high-powered regulated mods, in all of their flexibility, cannot replicate. It's something worth exploring for the tweakers and hairsplitters of the vaping world.

I also think that for someone like empt3, who wants to examine the more nitty-gritty aspects of vaping, mechs, whether they be single, series, or parallel, are the best learning tools.

 

[Bucky205]

Gotcha. I was a little confused by your wording.

I'm still going to have to disagree with you on series mechs, though. I think they offer a unique performance profile that high-powered regulated mods, in all of their flexibility, cannot replicate. It's something worth exploring for the tweakers and hairsplitters of the vaping world.

I also think that for someone like empt3, who wants to examine the more nitty-gritty aspects of vaping, mechs, whether they be single, series, or parallel, are the best learning tools.

I could be wrong, but I thought the Rouleaux was a series configuration.

 

[robot zombie]

I could be wrong, but I thought the Rouleaux was a series configuration.

Most high-powered regulated boxes do run in series. Three more well-known examples are the Sigelei 150w TC, IPV4, and Snowwolf 200w. However, the way they pull and distribute that power is fundamentally different from a series mech. They get the wattage from the batteries without any resistor involved. So a two-battery series mod will pull 20A at 8.4v to generate a little over 150w. A buck converter then exchanges voltage for current as dictated by the resistance of the coil. So quite often, the voltage coming from the batteries is not what hits the atty. To go back to my example of 150w, a .1 would get 38A @ 3.87v to hit 150w, even though the batteries give 20A @ 8.4v.

Whereas a series mechanical mod will always just pump out that raw voltage, regardless of what's on top. When it comes to building, the difference is night and day.

 

[Bucky205]

Most high-powered regulated boxes do run in series. Three more well-known examples are the Sigelei 150w TC, IPV4, and Snowwolf 200w. However, the way they pull and distribute that power is fundamentally different from a series mech. They get the wattage from the batteries without any resistor involved. So a two-battery series mod will pull 20A at 8.4v to generate a little over 150w. A buck converter then exchanges voltage for current as dictated by the resistance of the coil. So quite often, the voltage coming from the batteries is not what hits the atty. To go back to my example of 150w, a .1 would get 38A @ 3.87v to hit 150w, even though the batteries give 20A @ 8.4v.

Whereas a series mechanical mod will always just pump out that raw voltage, regardless of what's on top. When it comes to building, the difference is night and day.

Here's the part that I don't get. Since we know that the current is equal at all points in a series circuit, so whatever amount of current there is in any one of the series-connected batteries must be the same for all the others as well. Wouldn't that give you 20 amp batteries seeing a 38 amp load?

 

[robot zombie]

Here's the part that I don't get. Since we know that the current is equal at all points in a series circuit, so whatever amount of current there is in any one of the series-connected batteries must be the same for all the others as well. Wouldn't that give you 20 amp batteries seeing a 38 amp load?

No, it's essentially an equivalent exchange between the different forms of power. The buck converter takes voltage and trades it for the current equivalent after the wattage needed is generated by the batteries - they never see more than that initial 20A draw because they're kicking out 8+ volts to generate that wattage. When the voltage is dropped later on, that power doesn't just vanish. A little power is lost in the process, but the total wattage pushed generally remains the same - it merely changes from high-voltage to high-current in order to accommodate the draw of the coil. Basically, whatever is lost in voltage is gained in current. This is why a Sig 150 can safely and effectively power a .1 with 20A batteries.

 

[Bucky205]

No, it's essentially an equivalent exchange between the different forms of power. The buck converter takes voltage and trades it for the current equivalent after the wattage needed is generated by the batteries - they never see more than that initial 20A draw because they're kicking out 8+ volts to generate that wattage. When the voltage is dropped later on, that power doesn't just vanish. A little power is lost in the process, but the total wattage pushed generally remains the same - it merely changes from high-voltage to high-current in order to accommodate the draw of the coil. Basically, whatever is lost in voltage is gained in current. This is why a Sig 150 can safely and effectively power a .1 with 20A batteries.

That's by far the best explanation I've heard. You must have an EE background?

 

[robot zombie]

That's by far the best explanation I've heard. You must have an EE background?

Haha, thanks, but no. I just spend a lot of time thinking about and looking into how things work. Electrical engineering has always been very interesting to me, though. My uncle has worked in related fields for decades and I've picked up a lot of what I understand about components from him.

I should also add that there's a good bit more to the way buck converters work than I'm explaining. A real electrical engineer would be quick to point out the inaccuracies in my explanation. It would be much more difficult to explain how they actually work without getting into terminology that would also need to be outlined, so I stuck to boiling it down to what it all means in practice.

All I've given here is a casual explanation of what the end result is and what that means with regards to how high-powered box mods operate.

 

[DilFisher]

Duuugghhh,.... Dey went dat away.

I envy the way people "click" with this stuff. Dont get me wrong, I understand the concept and what it takes to be safe, but there are enough variables to completely customize your experience.
I have a cricket, and just run dual 26g K/ .8 and its a lot more tolerable. Simplicity sells.
I do have a question though, what's everyone's advice on useful tricks to clean this thing?
I have a stainless steel, microfiber cloth, that surprisingly works pretty well; although, I still have issues with what looks like carbon build up in firearms in my threads and are pretty tedious to remove.

 

[robot zombie]

Duuugghhh,.... Dey went dat away.

I envy the way people "click" with this stuff. Dont get me wrong, I understand the concept and what it takes to be safe, but there are enough variables to completely customize your experience.

Well, it's not as immediate as it seems. The people that really plug-in take a lot of time to build up that intuition. It's something gets deeply ingrained through a lot of thinking and questioning. Never sell yourself short on what you are capable of... ...let alone what your devices can do. There's always more to learn! It's not hard. It just takes time.

I do have a question though, what's everyone's advice on useful tricks to clean this thing?
I have a stainless steel, microfiber cloth, that surprisingly works pretty well; although, I still have issues with what looks like carbon build up in firearms in my threads and are pretty tedious to remove.

Probably not the best thing for it... ...but I use 90% isopropyl alcohol. I know the buildup you're talking about. That nasty gray, grease-like stuff. I just soak the topper and the threaded part of the button. While they're soaking in a little cup, I take some q-tips, dip em into the cup, and start working em against the threads on the body. It takes about 5 minutes to do those. After that, I pull the pieces out of the cup one by one and wipe down the threads with a microfiber cloth. This is usually enough to make them like new - most of the gunk seeps out into the alcohol and anything else usually comes off with a q-tip. The stubborn build-up will scrape off and rinse away easily with a toothpick... ...but I find I don't have to do that too often when I'm cleaning the threads regularly.

 

[CrazyChef]

do have a question though, what's everyone's advice on useful tricks to clean this thing?

Dental picks work fantastic Here's a set for $4.

 

[robot zombie]

Dental picks work fantastic Here's a set for $4.

Damn, why didn't I think of that? They work really well! The flossing end wraps right around those threads and rips the gunk out in strips. Holy shit that is amazing.

 

[dre]

I use my ultrasonic cleaner. I found a brand new harbor freight one at my local salvation army for $4. It's gets the button and 510 spotless and I just clean the mod body threads with alcohol wips

Sent from my Droid Turbo 2 using Tapatalk

 

[DilFisher]

Idk why I didnt think of dental picks. I have a set in an old weapons cleaning kit....Now I just have to remember where I packed that thing up at.How clean is yo' cricket, breh?

 

[raymo2u]

I use Wire Brushed from the Dollar store to clean the threads on everything and to make the plate as good of a conductor as its going to get..