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Quick question regarding the LG HE2

So on IMR(which is where I would prefer to order from) Shows the LG HE2 18620 2500mAh at 20A while on amazon they are advertised at 35A? Why the discrepencancy there. Also, at 20A, will this be safe for my smok tfv12 using the .12 ohm coil at 100w or more?
 

IMFire3605

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Amazon is notorious for using false advertising, IMRBatteries is an authorized battery distributor so uses LG's spec sheet of the HE2 and displays the continuous discharge rating (CDR) which is 20amps, while the short pulse discharge rate (PDR) is 35amps. PDR is just as it states for a pulse, for a short time of discharge the battery can hit 35amps for about 1/2 to 2 seconds, then has to shift down to CDR or lower or it can overheat and vent. So the 20amp rating is the most accurate to use, as a battery can sustain its CDR the entire discharge from 4.2v freshest charge to 3.0 or 3.2v lowest.

100watts in a series regulated mod, the 0.12ohms only comes into effect with the control board to calculate voltage needed, wattage and voltage are the two big factors for amp draw, higher the watts and lower the charge on the battery, the higher the amps climb in a regulated mod, where a mechanical lower ohms and higher voltage the amps climb.

(Watts Set/Lowest Voltage)/Mod Control Board Efficiency=Max Amps Needed <-This is the most accurate way to calculate amps. Most regulated mods are in series battery configuration, thus voltage is X Number of batteries, while the Mah and CDR stay the same of a single battery. Most mods operate between 3.2v lowest and 4.2v highest per battery, so, 3.2v X 2=6.4v, 3.2v X 3=9.6, etc

100watts/6.4v/90%=17.3611amps (Dual Battery)
100watts/9.6v/90%=11.5741amps (Triple Battery)
100watts/12.8/90%=8.6806amps (Quad Battery)
 

Jon@LiionWholesale

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The actual number is 20A. Amazon doesn't sell batteries on Amazon, only 3rd party sellers do, so it's a bunch of fly by night people selling out of their garage so they'll generally put whatever numbers will get the battery sold.
 
Ah, makes sense. What exactly is my mod reading(cuboid 150w) when I trigger a puff. at 97 watts the amp says 24.3 but I highly doubt that's the actual amperage I'm drawing at that moment? Because I'm pretty sure the batteries in it now are only 20A
 

AndriaD

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The LG HE2's are very underrated batteries, in terms of their popularity, but I find that they actually last just a *smidge* longer than Samsung 25R's, which are also 20A batteries; both are rated at 2500mAh, but the HE2's regularly outperform my 25R's, if only slightly.

Andria
 

gopher_byrd

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Ah, makes sense. What exactly is my mod reading(cuboid 150w) when I trigger a puff. at 97 watts the amp says 24.3 but I highly doubt that's the actual amperage I'm drawing at that moment? Because I'm pretty sure the batteries in it now are only 20A
What the Cubiod is displaying is the current being supplied by the board to your atomizer, not the current drawn from the batteries.
 
What the Cubiod is displaying is the current being supplied by the board to your atomizer, not the current drawn from the batteries.
I see, thanks for clearing that up. I'm either going to go with the he2's or vtc5a's, not sure yet. I don't plan on going above 120watts so I think either of these will be fine when paired with the tfv12 .12 ohm coil.
 

IMFire3605

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For a 150watts dual battery mod like the Cuboid I'd look at the VTC5A first, the HE2 will work fine up to 120watts but if you ever go over that 120watts you'll need the extra 5amps CDR the VTC5A has to do it.
 
Yeah like I said personally I don't see my self coming close to 120 or more on this mod. The hit for me is good at 90-100 and the extra life on the he2 would be nice. I do plan on, however, upgrading to a quad battery mod like the rx300 soon so I don't know if that changes my battery options when it comes to running 4 batteries and if I can get away with less amperage and get more mAh out of it for longer life?
 

conanthewarrior

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Yeah like I said personally I don't see my self coming close to 120 or more on this mod. The hit for me is good at 90-100 and the extra life on the he2 would be nice. I do plan on, however, upgrading to a quad battery mod like the rx300 soon so I don't know if that changes my battery options when it comes to running 4 batteries and if I can get away with less amperage and get more mAh out of it for longer life?

You can, yes. Some 20A, 3000MAH batteries would be good for 120W even in your cuboid, with a quad 18650 mod and the way they are wired you can push up to around 170W- this would put you at 30.4A assuming a 6.2V cut off and 90% efficiency.

This would be perfectly fine using the 50% safety margin for parallel (they are wired in series-parallel- 2 cells making a 8.4V battery, then another 2 doing the same, wired together parallel), it is 0.4A over but the 50% margin is there for extra safety.

A triple 18650 mod would also be fine for this kind of power level too, so depending how big you want to go mod wise would be my choice.
 

IMFire3605

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Yeah like I said personally I don't see my self coming close to 120 or more on this mod. The hit for me is good at 90-100 and the extra life on the he2 would be nice. I do plan on, however, upgrading to a quad battery mod like the rx300 soon so I don't know if that changes my battery options when it comes to running 4 batteries and if I can get away with less amperage and get more mAh out of it for longer life?

The RX300 is as Conan posted a parallel-series, double the voltage of a single battery, so 6.4v is low cut off for calculations, being 2 series sleds in parallel you'd gain an extra 50% CDR for safety margin.

20 amp batteries would max out at 173 watts with it
25amp batteries would max out at 216 watts with it
30 amp batteries would max out at 259 watts with it


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
 

Carambrda

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The RX300 is as Conan posted a parallel-series, double the voltage of a single battery, so 6.4v is low cut off for calculations, being 2 series sleds in parallel you'd gain an extra 50% CDR for safety margin.

20 amp batteries would max out at 173 watts with it
25amp batteries would max out at 216 watts with it
30 amp batteries would max out at 259 watts with it


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
Cutoff for the RX300 is at 6 volts, not 6.4 volts. But with Arctic Fox installed on my RX300, I am able to change the cutoff voltage (I have mine set to 3.14 volts). The user manual of the RX300 clearly states to use only 25 amp batteries. The VTC5A is 25 amps, and has smaller voltage sag compared to any 20 amp 18650 battery. Higher voltage input from the batteries due to smaller voltage sag also means the regulated mod will draw less amps from the batteries. Drawing less amps from the batteries also means it will take longer before you need to recharge them, so although depending on the wattage you vape, the VTC5A can give you the same runtime as a 3000 mAh battery, or pretty close to it. But because it is a 25 amp battery, the VTC5A is safer than a 20 amp battery. For this reason alone, it can still make perfectly good sense to go for the VTC5A, even, if you vape below 173 watts. And then there is also the additional fact that, even at 140 watts, the VTC5A runs cooler so not only will it be safer, but also there will be less wear and tear on the batteries so it will take longer before you will need to purchase new batteries. Please also keep in mind that even a little bit of reminiscence to chain vaping and or hot weather conditions also play a part in determining how far you can go in the land of the wattages. Finally, due to how the voltage of a battery oscillates at the beginning of every pulse, the regulated mod's stable performance will also depend to some certain degree on the size of the chosen battery's voltage sag.
 

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