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RTA: Dry hits, leaking, etc? Me too! Here's how I fixed it..

Bryan Miller

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Wicking guide or principles for any RTA
Pictured: Modified Orchid v4 with 3mm airholes and widened channels

DISCLAIMER: I've suffered, as most do, with dry hits, leaking and all sorts of wicking issues with RTA's. They're touchy and require consistency! With my guide below, I've developed an easily repeatable and effective way to wick your RTA for HIGH VG juices. I am a DIY'er at heart and regularly vape 85-90% VG blends. After watching SEVERAL videos, reading several guides and posting countless times for help with issues, this is what I've come up with over the past few weeks in my transition to RTA's from RDA's. My coils, modifications or style is NOT perfect... and that's what's GREAT about this technique. It doesn't require perfection in order to work beautifully. I'm not claiming this is original but this is what I've taken from others and adapted to work for my needs. I wanted to give back to the community that has helped me out immensely with getting off the stinkies and here it is --- a guide that took 3 hours lol. Feedback welcome!

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First off, I start with a basic coil. 7-8 wrap 2mm ID 28g dual coil. I love airflow and circulation as I feel it intensifies flavor and vapor production. Position the coils over the airhole with a good amount of space underneath, outside and inside of the coil so air can flow everywhere freely.

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I use organic Japanese cotton pads from A*****.com. They're very popular, inexpensive and work great. I generally cut off an even piece, just enough to make sure it fits snug inside the coil but not too tight. You'll figure this out over time. I remove both exterior "sheets" of the pad, revealing only the stringy fresh stuff inside. I use my fingers, place them in the middle of the cotton strip and lightly press/massage outwards. This will slightly condense and shape it properly as pictured above. I do not roll or twist it whatsoever, but use my fingers to slightly straighten out the fibers like a comb would. A little goes a long way; keep it fluffy and nicey nice.
Using your thumb and index finger, Twist the outer ends of the wick so they're easy to insert into the coil. Snip the cotton evenly in half and you're ready to go!
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Ok here is where the magic happens. Remember those bowl hair cuts back in the day? Use your the upper most deck as your guide. Place your scissors underneath the cotton and move them into the corner below deck so that it's touching ( _| ). Snip the cotton flush with edge. Start with a nice straight cut, perpendicular with the posts (picture #1). Then go around the entire deck and snip any extra cotton that protrudes past the top deck in any way. In other words, keep the scissors touching metal and rotate the atty as you cut it into shape.

The key here is not compressing the cotton. You left it nice and fluffy in the first few steps, and you want to leave it that way. Shape it with your scissors and then you have minimal tucking and pushing to do later.

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The final and very important step!! Apply juice like a paint brush to your wick so it's nice and wet. Here are my key tips:

1) Keep cotton OUT of the juice channels, leaving some on top of it like a bottle cap.

2) Keep cotton AWAY from the airhole. Don't let it sag over into it.

3) Keep ALL cotton WITHIN the deck, allowing none to extend out beyond the posts. This will leave your wick perfectly in tact when you screw on the chamber.

*AVOID COMPRESSION* Because you gave it that stylish hair cut, it won't require much cramming to fit all the cotton in there.

Take your screwdriver. Use the edge of the coil and the outer posts as a guide to slightly push the cotton back in place (*I literally make contact with the side of the post and coil edge with my screwdriver, and lightly press downward*). You want the cotton to sits over the channels, and none left in the channel itself. If any is falling into them, push it back upwards.

Check the airhole and move any cotton tipping over into it.

Lastly --- Take a birdseye view and make sure the cotton is inside the deck and won't be affected whatsoever once the chamber is screwed into place.
Screw the chamber, tank, and top cap on, fill it up and boom. You're good to go. =]

I hope this guide was clear enough to understand and helps anyone in need of guidance such as I was.

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EDITED: Typos and grammar suckage.
 
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StanM

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I basically used your technique with my Cthulhu. The one difference I did, was to leave the cotton a little bit longer and fold it under like we do with RDA's. I use 90% vg, its working well. Great tutorial...thank you.
 

Bryan Miller

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
I basically used your technique with my Cthulhu. The one difference I did, was to leave the cotton a little bit longer and fold it under like we do with RDA's. I use 90% vg, its working well. Great tutorial...thank you.

You should try my method. No folding or cramming cotton into shape. Wicks Sooo good. Makes a big difference.
 

StanM

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
You should try my method. No folding or cramming cotton into shape. Wicks Sooo good. Makes a big difference.
It worked well. The only thing I would say is to make your statement about using a basic coil in bold font. I found that it is the most important aspect of your method. It took me 4 tries to realize a micro-coil doesn't work lol. Thanks again
 

Bryan Miller

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
It worked well. The only thing I would say is to make your statement about using a basic coil in bold font. I found that it is the most important aspect of your method. It took me 4 tries to realize a micro-coil doesn't work lol. Thanks again
Isn't a non spaced 28g 2mm considered micro?

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StanM

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
If it is a micro, I can say with confidence that I cannot get it to consistently work with 26g 8 wrap. Until I installed a coil that had some space to it, i would randomly get dry hits. It is most likely an error in building on my part. But, I can tell you that your technique also works with non-micro coils ;)
 

Slurp812

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Im going home, and ripping my cotton out of my subtank mini, and my kayfun. Thanks for the awesome pics and explanations.
 

Bryan Miller

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
If it is a micro, I can say with confidence that I cannot get it to consistently work with 26g 8 wrap. Until I installed a coil that had some space to it, i would randomly get dry hits. It is most likely an error in building on my part. But, I can tell you that your technique also works with non-micro coils ;)
Hmm, my guess is too much cotton. Too tight in the coil maybe ?

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Bryan Miller

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
I was using 10 wrap 26g 2mm before this 28g build and went over a week without one. Keep trying =). don't be shy with the scissors. I was kinda sloppy and focused more on taking pics than technique. I add diagonal cuts and remove even more than pictured sometimes. The key is reducing quantity of cotton and keeping what's left nice and fluffy, not too dense.

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StanM

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Got it working right. As long as I dont make my coils too tight, I can use a micro-coil. I agree with you Bryan, this setup doesn't even think about drying out. It took me a couple tries to find my sweet spot on cotton amount. No leaking and no dryhits. What more could we ask for?
 

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